The warp and weft of Syrian history is being displayed at New York’s Katonah Museum of Art, in an exhibition that spans 2,000 years and highlights the area’s underappreciated but pivotal position in the global textile trade.
Running until January 28, Stories of Syria’s Textiles: Art and Heritage across Two Millennia is presenting works that date as far back as the first century, when Syria was a Roman province. In chronological order, it then exhibits textiles from Syria’s Ottoman and French Mandate periods before focusing on contemporary works while touching on how the war has put the country’s cultural heritage at risk.
More than two dozen works have been loaned from museums and institutions, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Berkshire Museum and Yale University Art Gallery, alongside eight recently-produced textiles from Syria.
Stories of Syria’s Textiles is curated by Blair Fowlkes Childs, in collaboration with consultants Deniz Beyazit and Hany Hawasly. The exhibition, Fowlkes Child says, was inspired by her own expertise in the art and the archaeology of Syria in the Roman period, as well as the book Syrian Silk by Maya Alkateb-Chami.
“I was reading [the book] because I wanted to learn more about contemporary Syrian textiles as part of my research into Syrian cultural heritage,” Fowlkes Child says. “I learned a great deal. I was also connected to the viewpoint of the silk farmers and folk artisans she writes about and how they even connect their heritage to Palmyra.”
The ancient city, now situated in the centre of modern Syria, is one of two places where the exhibition begins telling the story of Syria’s textile history. The first section focuses on works originating in Palmyra as well as the ancient city of Dura-Europos, the ruins of which lie near the town of Al-Salihiyah on the western bank of the Euphrates River.
From Dura-Europos comes a series of woven tapestry fragments that date from the early to mid-third century. Despite their tattered condition and age, the woollen fabrics remain breathtaking. One is olive-coloured, decorated with rosettes that bloom with gradients of beige and red. Others have floral and colourful bands or are decorated with deeply-dyed patterns.
They are juxtaposed with limestone reliefs and sculptures from Palmyra that give insights to how fabrics were worn during the time.
“Grouping the textiles and sculptures into the ancient section […] makes sense for learning about Dura-Europos and Palmyra, and the period we call the Late Antiquity,” Fowlkes Childs says.
“The sculptures from Palmyra really make it possible to understand ancient clothing and styles. If you look at them closely you can see patterns carved into the textiles that are shown.
“I wanted to show people how we can understand tiny archeological textile fragments much better by looking at Palmyrian sculpture, and how we can understand Palmyrian sculpture much better if we look at the actual textile fragments.”
The textiles also are testament to Syria’s place in the western edge of the ancient Silk Routes, particularly with their use of Chinese silks.
Besides their decorative and clothing functions, textiles also had a symbolic protective aspect, Fowlkes Childs says. A number of pieces in the exhibition are testament to this, particularly a seventh-century tunic decoration with Alexander the hunter on horseback, and another fifth to sixth-century fragmentary band displaying scenes from Christ’s infancy.
“Both of these seem to be broadly protective for the person wearing them,” she says.
This protective element resonates into the second part of the exhibition, which focuses on the 19th and 20th century when Syria was under Ottoman rule before becoming a French Mandate.
The textiles also convey connotations of class and status. A woman’s clothing from northern Syria, decorated with lush patterns along the lapels and cuffs, and a festive dress from the Qalamoun region, embroidered with silk, are among examples of this. The pieces are on loan from the Museum of International Folk Art and the Philadelphia Museum of Art respectively.
Research and conservation efforts form a large part of the exhibition’s narrative. Several studies were carried out by colleagues of Fowlkes Childs to further understanding of how the textiles were made and their functions. Photo micrographs were taken to provide unprecedented detail of the threads and techniques used to make the textiles, while digital recreations of fragments exhibit the pieces in their full former glory.
“This helps us understand their history and cultural significance more specifically,” Fowlkes Childs says. “With the ancient ones, it helps us preserve them digitally. . Using these photo micrographs and creating digital reconstructions is ultimately a form of preservation because you’re dealing with fragile, organic archeological objects.”
The micrographs and the digital recreations, Fowlkes Childs adds, also document the strength of the textiles’ fibres, their condition and colour. The exhibition displays some of these photo micrographs alongside exhibited pieces “so that people can really understand what metal-wrapped thread is and how extraordinary that is”.
The exhibition’s third section is a poignant one. Containing several contemporary works, it underscores how since the conflict in Syria began in 2011, the country’s cultural heritage has been put at risk amid the humanitarian and refugee crisis. Archeological sites and museums have been destroyed and looted, incurring a dreadful loss of history and culture.
The third section, which is presented in a smaller gallery within the museum, also highlights Syria's silk industry before the conflict.
“We’re using [the photographs] to illuminate the different people involved in producing textiles,” Fowlkes Childs says. “It’s really a show that focuses on the makers, the skilled weavers, artisans, dyers and embroiderers. It’s not just a focus on the works and clothing, but on the actual process and people behind [the textiles].”
Many of the stories and studies that informed the exhibition are presented in its catalogue. This includes an essay by photojournalist and heritage researcher Rania Kataf.
“She is in Damascus, and she interviewed brocade and other textile producers,” Fowlkes Childs says.
The catalogue also draws from the research Alkateb-Chami and Hawasly carried out in the western mountains of Syria for the book Syrian Silk. “They were working with the people who are responsible for raising silkworms, and for what's called reeling, producing the silk thread, and weaving.”
The catalogue, Fowlkes Childs says, is likely to be distributed internationally, making it accessible for those unable to attend the exhibition in person and making it a pivotal component to raising awareness on the cultural heritage of silk and textile production in Syria.
After all, that is one of the chief ambitions of the exhibition.
“As a scholar, I feel it is my job to disseminate research to make it available to the wider public, to encourage new research and conservation, and to also raise awareness of heritage more broadly,” Fowlkes Childs says.
Stories of Syria’s Textiles: Art and Heritage across Two Millennia will be running at Katonah Museum of Art until January 28
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- Have a plan for your savings.
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Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.
Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.
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Key findings of Jenkins report
- Founder of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hassan al Banna, "accepted the political utility of violence"
- Views of key Muslim Brotherhood ideologue, Sayyid Qutb, have “consistently been understood” as permitting “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” and “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
- Muslim Brotherhood at all levels has repeatedly defended Hamas attacks against Israel, including the use of suicide bombers and the killing of civilians.
- Laying out the report in the House of Commons, David Cameron told MPs: "The main findings of the review support the conclusion that membership of, association with, or influence by the Muslim Brotherhood should be considered as a possible indicator of extremism."
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PROFILE OF SWVL
Started: April 2017
Founders: Mostafa Kandil, Ahmed Sabbah and Mahmoud Nouh
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Sector: transport
Size: 450 employees
Investment: approximately $80 million
Investors include: Dubai’s Beco Capital, US’s Endeavor Catalyst, China’s MSA, Egypt’s Sawari Ventures, Sweden’s Vostok New Ventures, Property Finder CEO Michael Lahyani
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Publisher: Konami
Platforms: PlayStation 5, Xbox Series X/S, PC
Rating: 4.5/5
Yahya Al Ghassani's bio
Date of birth: April 18, 1998
Playing position: Winger
Clubs: 2015-2017 – Al Ahli Dubai; March-June 2018 – Paris FC; August – Al Wahda
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
How to wear a kandura
Dos
- Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion
- Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
- Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work
- Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester
Don’ts
- Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal
- Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
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- Promises of high, fixed or 'guaranteed' returns.
- Unregulated structured products or complex investments often used to bypass traditional safeguards.
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- Overseas companies targeting investors in other jurisdictions - this can make legal recovery difficult.
- Hard-selling tactics - creating urgency, offering 'exclusive' deals.
Courtesy: Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching
The biog
Name: Shamsa Hassan Safar
Nationality: Emirati
Education: Degree in emergency medical services at Higher Colleges of Technology
Favourite book: Between two hearts- Arabic novels
Favourite music: Mohammed Abdu and modern Arabic songs
Favourite way to spend time off: Family visits and spending time with friends
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The Voice of Hind Rajab
Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees
Director: Kaouther Ben Hania
Rating: 4/5
It Was Just an Accident
Director: Jafar Panahi
Stars: Vahid Mobasseri, Mariam Afshari, Ebrahim Azizi, Hadis Pakbaten, Majid Panahi, Mohamad Ali Elyasmehr
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MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League semi-final, first leg
Bayern Munich v Real Madrid
When: April 25, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Allianz Arena, Munich
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 1, Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid
Episode list:
Ep1: A recovery like no other- the unevenness of the economic recovery
Ep2: PCR and jobs - the future of work - new trends and challenges
Ep3: The recovery and global trade disruptions - globalisation post-pandemic
Ep4: Inflation- services and goods - debt risks
Ep5: Travel and tourism
Profile
Company: Justmop.com
Date started: December 2015
Founders: Kerem Kuyucu and Cagatay Ozcan
Sector: Technology and home services
Based: Jumeirah Lake Towers, Dubai
Size: 55 employees and 100,000 cleaning requests a month
Funding: The company’s investors include Collective Spark, Faith Capital Holding, Oak Capital, VentureFriends, and 500 Startups.
More coverage from the Future Forum
Tips from the expert
Dobromir Radichkov, chief data officer at dubizzle and Bayut, offers a few tips for UAE residents looking to earn some cash from pre-loved items.
- Sellers should focus on providing high-quality used goods at attractive prices to buyers.
- It’s important to use clear and appealing photos, with catchy titles and detailed descriptions to capture the attention of prospective buyers.
- Try to advertise a realistic price to attract buyers looking for good deals, especially in the current environment where consumers are significantly more price-sensitive.
- Be creative and look around your home for valuable items that you no longer need but might be useful to others.
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School counsellors on mental well-being
Schools counsellors in Abu Dhabi have put a number of provisions in place to help support pupils returning to the classroom next week.
Many children will resume in-person lessons for the first time in 10 months and parents previously raised concerns about the long-term effects of distance learning.
Schools leaders and counsellors said extra support will be offered to anyone that needs it. Additionally, heads of years will be on hand to offer advice or coping mechanisms to ease any concerns.
“Anxiety this time round has really spiralled, more so than from the first lockdown at the beginning of the pandemic,” said Priya Mitchell, counsellor at The British School Al Khubairat in Abu Dhabi.
“Some have got used to being at home don’t want to go back, while others are desperate to get back.
“We have seen an increase in depressive symptoms, especially with older pupils, and self-harm is starting younger.
“It is worrying and has taught us how important it is that we prioritise mental well-being.”
Ms Mitchell said she was liaising more with heads of year so they can support and offer advice to pupils if the demand is there.
The school will also carry out mental well-being checks so they can pick up on any behavioural patterns and put interventions in place to help pupils.
At Raha International School, the well-being team has provided parents with assessment surveys to see how they can support students at home to transition back to school.
“They have created a Well-being Resource Bank that parents have access to on information on various domains of mental health for students and families,” a team member said.
“Our pastoral team have been working with students to help ease the transition and reduce anxiety that [pupils] may experience after some have been nearly a year off campus.
"Special secondary tutorial classes have also focused on preparing students for their return; going over new guidelines, expectations and daily schedules.”
