The rarefied world of haute couture today is about luxury occasion clothes, and Lebanese designers are masters of the category. Take Elie Saab, for instance. At the recently concluded Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, the celebrity designer hosted a party to inaugurate his large new boutique on the Avenue George V, giving clients the perfect occasion to wear his shimmering lace dresses.
They had no shortage of choice – Saab is known for his beautiful evening dresses, a point not missed on A-listers, who, like his clients, undoubtedly will be clamouring to slip into his flattering, new, gilded haute couture gems.
Inspired by the glistening golden palaces of Byzantium, gold thread has been used extensively throughout the collection of almost diaphanous empire-line and ballerina dresses. The models sweetly coiffed with golden laurels in their hair and on their wrists – made it clear the range is aimed at women who see themselves as princesses.
Long, lace column gowns with glimmering organic embroideries and sheer tulle sections in the skirts and torso, play on transparency, evoking the three-dimensionality of flora.
Saab made sure his palette mirrored this, doing away with his traffic-stopping bright gowns for a softer colour wheel.
Gold- and silver-embroidered dresses captured the hues of metal. Elsewhere, nude pink evoked flesh, pale terre verte the plants, and beige and black, the Earth.
Also from Lebanon, Zuhair Murad’s and Georges Hobeika’s strength lies in their irresistibly feminine evening wear. Each has a core clientele of the super elite and scores of celebrities who keenly watched the new autumn/winter collections that were presented in Paris last week.
Both designers experienced well-earned success dressing the stars on the Cannes red carpet in May. Murad dressed Chinese star Li Bingbing, Chanel Iman and Mad Max actress Michelle Rodriguez in a daring black tattoo-embroidered gown, while Georges Hobeika had Virginie Ledoyen, Eva Longoria and Lebanese filmmaker Nadine Labaki to his credit.
Doing Cannes, Hobeika said, gave exceptional global exposure and impact to his label especially as Cannes now sits alongside the Oscars in importance as an international showcase for fashion. Their red-carpet success is undoubtedly based on creating collections brim full with glamorous evening wear.
Murad’s new cosmic-themed collection is sure to inspire many, featuring midnight hues twinkling with a galaxy of starry embroideries on gowns and jumpsuits. Most memorable were a long, inky, velvet, hooded cape over a crystal-embroidered tulle sheath and a black tulle ball gown covered in silver shooting star embroidery. Georges Hobeika, on the other hand, was inspired by that very British custom of five o’clock tea, with charming pale shantung silk and guipure lace dresses abundantly embellished with English garden floral appliqués and pretty embroideries.
One of the most important parts of a couture house’s business is bridal wear: every catwalk show finishes with a bride. Given that a wedding dress can run into tens, or even hundreds, of thousands of dollars, and that a commission might include dressing the bride’s mother and her bridesmaids, it is easy to see what keeps a house buoyant.
In June, two beautiful and talented jewellery designers got married in couture. United Kingdom-based Lebanese jewellery designer Sabine Ghanem wore a custom-designed marabou-trimmed Schiaparelli dress and cape for her marriage to the great-grandson of an oil tycoon, Joseph Getty, while her friend Noor Fares (daughter of the former deputy prime minister of Lebanon, Issam Fares) chose Giambattista Valli to design her white lace appliqué gown. Valli also designed one of the dresses Amal Clooney wore for her wedding weekend.
artslife@thenational.ae
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
From Zero
Artist: Linkin Park
Label: Warner Records
Number of tracks: 11
Rating: 4/5
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Anxiety and work stress major factors
Anxiety, work stress and social isolation are all factors in the recogised rise in mental health problems.
A study UAE Ministry of Health researchers published in the summer also cited struggles with weight and illnesses as major contributors.
Its authors analysed a dozen separate UAE studies between 2007 and 2017. Prevalence was often higher in university students, women and in people on low incomes.
One showed 28 per cent of female students at a Dubai university reported symptoms linked to depression. Another in Al Ain found 22.2 per cent of students had depressive symptoms - five times the global average.
It said the country has made strides to address mental health problems but said: “Our review highlights the overall prevalence of depressive symptoms and depression, which may long have been overlooked."
Prof Samir Al Adawi, of the department of behavioural medicine at Sultan Qaboos University in Oman, who was not involved in the study but is a recognised expert in the Gulf, said how mental health is discussed varies significantly between cultures and nationalities.
“The problem we have in the Gulf is the cross-cultural differences and how people articulate emotional distress," said Prof Al Adawi.
“Someone will say that I have physical complaints rather than emotional complaints. This is the major problem with any discussion around depression."
Daniel Bardsley
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
Company%20Profile
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