First look: Nara on the Sea redefines dhow dinners in Dubai with class and quality

A wooden dhow gleams on the waters surrounding Dubai Festival City Mall, lacquered teak panels reflecting the amber glow of its lights. Ascending the steps to board Lady Nara to sample Nara on the Sea, Dubai's newest dinner cruise that launches on Saturday, I notice the meticulous attention to detail: wooden slats line the ceiling; table arrangements are thoughtfully spaced out; cushioned banquettes are adorned with patterned throw pillows; and rattan chairs are complemented by hues of terracotta, cream and sage. Right off the bat, it’s clear Nara on the Sea isn’t a run-of-the-mill touristy dinner cruise with endless buffet lines and speakers cranked up. I make my way to the best seat in the house, the open-air upper deck that benefits from the breeze coming off the water. While shawls are available to borrow, dressing warmly is recommended in the evening chill of this season. The deck has a number of circular and rectangular tables that will suit a variety of diners, from couples and families to larger groups. There is also plush low-seating complete with comfortable cushions and Persian-style rugs peppered throughout. Nara on the Sea offers two cruises: the sunset one typically starts at 4pm, but can fluctuate depending on seasonal variations. Priced at Dh390 a head, this one mainly serves canapes. Dishes include salmon toast with lemon cream cheese and sumac; Mandarin-infused lemon chicken; panipuri with guacamole; and an assorted macaroon box. I am on the dinner cruise, though, which sets sail at 8pm. Upper deck seats cost Dh690 per person, while those dining on the lower deck will pay Dh590. Both cruises clock in at about two hours, which feels just right – it's long enough to savour the experience without giving off the “I’m stranded on a floating restaurant” feels. Once everyone is seated, the dhow eases away from the dock, its journey weaving through Dubai Creek before entering Dubai Water Canal in the Business Bay area – and the dinner service begins. First to arrive at my table is a crudites platter with different bread options, and fresh and lightly spiced vegetables. The accompanying pink hummus and labneh olive dip are a satisfying prelude – earthy, creamy and briny. The background music is also perceptible at this point – it's low enough to allow table chatter, but equally swooning along to Whitney Houston's soaring lyrics is an option. As the dhow sails further into the canal, the starters arrive. The beef bresaola carpaccio, with its paper-thin slices, is subtly smoky and pairs beautifully with a tangy confit tomato and balsamic glaze. Other options include artichoke and courgette carpaccio, and a classic Mediterranean salad. One is rich, the other light. The showstopper among the appetisers is a salad of red snapper fish – the meat is lightly poached and delicately seasoned – perched on a bed of baba ganoush. The smoky, velvety eggplant puree anchors the dish, its depth of flavour harmonising with the snapper's subtle sweetness. Mains are served as the dhow reaches its halfway point near Burj Khalifa. The three dishes – black cod, braised veal and pepper mechouia – arrive simultaneously and are accompanied by a plate of saffron rice. The black cod, sitting on top of spiced tomato sauce, is tender yet firm, its flavours bolstered by the bright acidity of the sauce. The roasted vegetable medley is vibrant yet smoky, with the eggplant makdous walnut adding textural flair. The star dish among the mains is the slow-cooked braised veal, which is tender and perfectly caramelised in a velvety sauce with a punch of garam masala. As the dhow turns back towards Festival City, dessert is presented – pistachio cake with raspberry sorbet. It makes for a satisfying end to the meal, although I was hoping for a more memorable sweet finale. Given the kitchen limitations and logistical constraints on-board a dhow, the overall quality, temperature, presentation and service of the dishes are a testament to the skill of the chef and his team. Throughout the meal, I am struck by the seamless interplay of the setting and the cuisine. Without the crutch of a buffet, the team delivers a plated experience that can rival many of Dubai’s land-based restaurants. In a fitting end to the evening, the dhow’s return to the dock coincides with a crescendo of lights and music from Festival City’s nightly water show. I linger on for a moment on the quay, watching the show light up the dhow gently bobbing in the water. Nara on the Sea sails daily at 4pm and 8pm. For reservations, call 050 336 7909

First look: Nara on the Sea redefines dhow dinners in Dubai with class and quality

Lady Nara offers elevated experience by way of premium dishes and impeccable service. Just remember to dress warm