Bites review: North Indian restaurant Naya at Dubai’s Jumeirah Beach Hotel

The pitch

Naya – which means “new” in Hindi, Google Translate tells me – is indeed a fresh North Indian offering at Dubai’s Jumeirah Beach Hotel. The menu is the work of head chef Pravish Shetty, who has worked alongside celeb master Vineet Bhatia, and is said to be inspired by traditional, down-to-earth family favourites.

The mood

Despite the loom of gold furnishings, Naya is pitched somewhere between high-end and casual come-as-you-are. The mid-sized circular space is lined with glowing pillars and shimmering hanging globes – yet a laidback vibe pervades. There were lots of families and casually dressed groups – probably hotel residents – rather than dreamy, turned-out couples, when we visited late one week night. Pretty Indian classical music twinkles away.

The start

The tandoori mushrooms were an absolute delight – stuffed amply with cheese and spinach, they came lightly cooked to maintain a wholesome meaty texture, and were lent the kick of a spicy orange sauce. The dahi puri chaat were tasty wheat puffs packed with potato, tangy tamarind and topped with pomegranate seeds – a nice twist.

The main

It was the main course curries where Naya truly proved it’s worth. The prawn bhuna was delicious – a thick, mashed base of chopped vegetables and spices which was both hearty and chewy, but light and liquid-ey enough to complement the fantastically aromatic vegetable biryani. The paneer khurchan meanwhile was cooked sublimely, with the soft cottage cheese actually living up to the “mouth-melting” cliché, served in a thick gravy with mixed peppers, spring onion and spices. The presentation also deserves commending – the wholesome, moreish tadka daal was served in a cute metal pot.

The verdict

Service was fast. Price-wise Naya sits comfortably in the midrange, with main courses starting at Dh80. While there are plenty of comparably positioned Indian restaurants in the city, many with celebrity names behind them, we’re happy to report Naya competes ably on the quality of the food alone. Every dish we ordered was of a consistently high quality, and packed with fresh, distinctive flavours. Looks can be deceiving, and Naya definitely offers a welcome surprise.

• Naya is at Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai and is open daily from 6pm. Reservations 04 366 5866 or JRGReservations@jumeirah.com.Check the menu here.