The city skyline frames zebras at the Nairobi National Park.
The city skyline frames zebras at the Nairobi National Park.

Breakfast with giraffes in Nairobi



Why Nairobi? 

Whether you are setting out on a safari to some of Kenya's majestic game parks or returning from its idyllic Indian Ocean beaches, a Kenyan holiday invariably begins and ends in Nairobi.

For adventure travellers exploring the region's wild side, Nairobi offers a slice of modernity and a chance to recharge the batteries (literally and metaphorically) before heading back into the bush.

Visitors expecting a sleepy backwater will be surprised by Nairobi's 40-storey glass-lined high-rises and busy highways. The city of four million people is an eclectic melting pot of tribes from all over East Africa as well as large populations of Indians, East Asians, Arabs and Europeans. Nairobi is as diverse as its people. From the pulsating central business district with its theatres and museums to its posh suburbs with chic malls and gourmet restaurants to its sprawling, fascinating slums, the city has something to capture the attention of every traveller.

Some may be put off by the city's outdated nickname, "Nai-robbery". Petty crime still exists, but the government has cracked down in the last decade and most parts of the city are safe for travellers to explore on their own. That said, don't walk alone after dark and avoid dodgy-looking areas for a safe, enjoyable visit.

A comfortable bed 

Conveniently located in the heart of downtown, the Stanley (www.sarovahotels.com/stanley; 00 254 20 275 7000) has been a Nairobi institution since 1902, when the city was little more than a railway outpost. Modern amenities such as a heated pool, health club and fine dining ensure guests are ensconced in five-star luxury. Double rooms start at US$400 (Dh1,470), including taxes.

Nairobi's trendiest boutique hotel is the recently opened Tribe (www.tribe-hotel.com; 00 254 20 720 0000). Located in the upscale Gigiri neighbourhood, the hotel's natural rock façade and modern architecture are eye-catching, while the lobby is well appointed in chic African art. Double rooms featuring orthopaedic mattresses and flat-screen TVs cost from $280 (Dh1,028), including breakfast and taxes.

For a unique experience, try Giraffe Manor, an eccentric bed & breakfast in the quiet suburb of Karen (www.giraffemanor.com; 00 254 20 891 078). The Scottish-style mansion is on the grounds of a giraffe preserve and the lanky animals frequently poke their heads into guests' bedrooms or try to steal a piece of toast from the breakfast table. Rooms start from $580 (Dh2,130), including taxes.

Find your feet

Start in the heart of downtown at the Kenyatta International Conference Centre, the 30-storey cylindrical landmark. There is not much to see inside Nairobi's second-tallest building, but the views from the roof over the city and the expansive plains are unequalled. From there, head over to the Nairobi National Museum (www.museums.or.ke) on the hill overlooking downtown. It features wonderful wildlife and palaeontology exhibits and is a great primer on the history and culture of Kenya.

Finish the afternoon in Westlands, a leafy neighbourhood of high-end shops and restaurants. Duck into Westgate Mall for a break from the hustle and grit of the city. Browse the bookstores, take in a movie or sip a cappuccino at Art Cafe, a Parisian-style bistro popular with Nairobi expats.

Meet the locals 

On a weekend afternoon, Kenyans love to roast and consume copious amounts of meat. Plop down at a table in one of the many tucked-away nyama choma (roasted meat) restaurants in downtown or at Tamasha in Hurlingham and you'll likely be invited to join a communal plate piled high with delicious beef or goat ($5, Dh18 for 1kg of meat) while swaying to the traditional Lingala music. Most of these places also have TVs showing UK Premier League football, a local favourite, and any knowledge of the teams will win lots of friends.

Book a table 

Carnivore (00 254 20 600 5933), on Langata Road next to Wilson Airport, offers an unforgettable dining experience. Just about every type of meat imaginable, including crocodile, zebra and giraffe, is roasted over a fire pit and carved right at your table. The meat keeps coming until you wave the white flag - literally, there is a white flag on each table that you tip over to signal you can't eat another bite. Dinner with drinks will set you back $40 (Dh147).

Habesha (00 254 20 386 7035), in the Hurlingham neighbourhood, dishes up arguably the best Ethiopian food in town but is the least expensive at about $10 (Dh37) for a plate shared between two people. Huge plates of flat, spongy injera bread are served with heaps of meat, vegetables and shiro, a spicy dish of mashed chickpeas. The best tables are outside next to the fire pits and the fragrant smell of burning frankincense.

Shopper's paradise 

For unique, locally made gifts, check out Junction Mall on Ngong Road, which has branches of Kitengela Glass and Kazuri Beads. Kitengela sells whimsical glass art pieces and kitchenware that is hand-blown in its Nairobi studio. Gifts can be had for $20 up to $200 (Dh73 to Dh735). Kazuri offers a huge selection of colourful ceramic beaded jewellery made by women who are living in slums. Necklaces start at $15 (Dh55).

Try your bargaining skills at the Masai market on Slip Road, near the Central Police Station. The open-air craft market attracts some of Kenya's best artisans. Great deals can be had on masks, ornate wood carvings and colourful jewellery. You can get almost anything at the market for under $20 (Dh73) if you haggle hard enough.

What to avoid 

An excursion to Nairobi National Park is not worth the expense of $150 (Dh550) for a half-day trip (includes entry fee and guide), especially if you have planned a safari to some of Kenya's much more stunning game parks such as the Masai Mara, Amboseli or the Aberdares.

Don't miss 

The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (entrance $5, Dh18) in the Langata neighbourhood. This is the world's only orphanage for baby African elephants that have lost their parents due to poaching. Each day the caretakers parade the adorable creatures for cooing visitors and feed them milk from bottles. Also in the same neighbourhood, the Giraffe Centre (entrance $10, Dh37) is home to a dozen Rothschild giraffes, the tallest and rarest giraffe species. Visitors can climb the feeding platform to come nose-to-nose with these graceful animals.

Matt Brown wrote the Nairobi chapter of The Rough Guide to Kenya.

2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups

Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.

Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.

Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.

Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, Leon.

Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.

Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.

Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.

Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.

ESSENTIALS

The flights

Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.

The hotels

Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.

The tours

A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages. 

JOKE'S%20ON%20YOU
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Dr Afridi's warning signs of digital addiction

Spending an excessive amount of time on the phone.

Neglecting personal, social, or academic responsibilities.

Losing interest in other activities or hobbies that were once enjoyed.

Having withdrawal symptoms like feeling anxious, restless, or upset when the technology is not available.

Experiencing sleep disturbances or changes in sleep patterns.

What are the guidelines?

Under 18 months: Avoid screen time altogether, except for video chatting with family.

Aged 18-24 months: If screens are introduced, it should be high-quality content watched with a caregiver to help the child understand what they are seeing.

Aged 2-5 years: Limit to one-hour per day of high-quality programming, with co-viewing whenever possible.

Aged 6-12 years: Set consistent limits on screen time to ensure it does not interfere with sleep, physical activity, or social interactions.

Teenagers: Encourage a balanced approach – screens should not replace sleep, exercise, or face-to-face socialisation.

Source: American Paediatric Association
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Jigra
Director: Vasan Bala
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
Rated: 3.5/5
The specs

  Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now

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RACECARD
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FINAL RESULT

Sharjah Wanderers 20 Dubai Tigers 25 (After extra-time)

Wanderers
Tries: Gormley, Penalty
cons: Flaherty
Pens: Flaherty 2

Tigers
Tries: O’Donnell, Gibbons, Kelly
Cons: Caldwell 2
Pens: Caldwell, Cross

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The%20specs
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The specs

Engine: 3-litre twin-turbo V6

Power: 400hp

Torque: 475Nm

Transmission: 9-speed automatic

Price: From Dh215,900

On sale: Now

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
 
Started: 2021
 
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
 
Based: Tunisia 
 
Sector: Water technology 
 
Number of staff: 22 
 
Investment raised: $4 million 
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Power: 510hp at 9,000rpm
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Price: From Dh801,800
FIGHT%20CARD
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SQUAD

Ali Khaseif, Fahad Al Dhanhani, Adel Al Hosani, Mohammed Al Shamsi, Bandar Al Ahbabi, Mohammed Barghash, Salem Rashid, Khalifa Al Hammadi, Shaheen Abdulrahman, Hassan Al Mahrami, Walid Abbas, Mahmoud Khamis, Yousef Jaber, Saeed Ahmed, Majed Sorour, Majed Hassan, Ali Salmeen, Abdullah Ramadan, Khalil Al Hammadi, Fabio De Lima, Khalfan Mubarak, Tahnoun Al Zaabi, Ali Saleh, Caio Canedo, Muhammed Jumah, Ali Mabkhout, Sebastian Tagliabue, Zayed Al Ameri

Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
 
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
Profile Box

Company/date started: 2015

Founder/CEO: Mohammed Toraif

Based: Manama, Bahrain

Sector: Sales, Technology, Conservation

Size: (employees/revenue) 4/ 5,000 downloads

Stage: 1 ($100,000)

Investors: Two first-round investors including, 500 Startups, Fawaz Al Gosaibi Holding (Saudi Arabia)

The specs

AT4 Ultimate, as tested

Engine: 6.2-litre V8

Power: 420hp

Torque: 623Nm

Transmission: 10-speed automatic

Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)

On sale: Now

Dubai World Cup Carnival Thursday race card

6.30pm: Dubai Millennium Stakes Group Three US$200,000 (Turf) 2,000m
7.05pm: Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,600m​​​​​​​
7.40pm: UAE Oaks Group Three $250,000 (Dirt) 1,900m​​​​​​​
8.15pm: Zabeel Mile Group Two $250,000 (T) 1,600m​​​​​​​
8.50pm: Meydan Sprint Group Two $250,000 (T) 1,000m​​​​​​​
9.25pm: Handicap $135,000 (D) 1,400m
10pm: Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,600m

Director: Laxman Utekar

Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna

Rating: 1/5

FIGHT CARD

Sara El Bakkali v Anisha Kadka (Lightweight, female)
Mohammed Adil Al Debi v Moaz Abdelgawad (Bantamweight)
Amir Boureslan v Mahmoud Zanouny (Welterweight)
Abrorbek Madaminbekov v Mohammed Al Katheeri (Featherweight)
Ibrahem Bilal v Emad Arafa (Super featherweight)
Ahmed Abdolaziz v Imad Essassi (Middleweight)
Milena Martinou v Ilham Bourakkadi (Bantamweight, female)
Noureddine El Agouti v Mohamed Mardi (Welterweight)
Nabil Ouach v Ymad Atrous (Middleweight)
Nouredin Samir v Zainalabid Dadachev (Lightweight)
Marlon Ribeiro v Mehdi Oubahammou (Welterweight)
Brad Stanton v Mohamed El Boukhari (Super welterweight

THE BIG MATCH

Arsenal v Manchester City,

Sunday, Emirates Stadium, 6.30pm

Most match wins on clay

Guillermo Vilas - 659

Manuel Orantes - 501

Thomas Muster - 422

Rafael Nadal - 399 *

Jose Higueras - 378

Eddie Dibbs - 370

Ilie Nastase - 338

Carlos Moya - 337

Ivan Lendl - 329

Andres Gomez - 322

Our legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

Europe’s rearming plan
  • Suspend strict budget rules to allow member countries to step up defence spending
  • Create new "instrument" providing €150 billion of loans to member countries for defence investment
  • Use the existing EU budget to direct more funds towards defence-related investment
  • Engage the bloc's European Investment Bank to drop limits on lending to defence firms
  • Create a savings and investments union to help companies access capital
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh132,000 (Countryman)
A State of Passion

Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

The biog

Favourite books: 'Ruth Bader Ginsburg: A Life' by Jane D. Mathews and ‘The Moment of Lift’ by Melinda Gates

Favourite travel destination: Greece, a blend of ancient history and captivating nature. It always has given me a sense of joy, endless possibilities, positive energy and wonderful people that make you feel at home.

Favourite pastime: travelling and experiencing different cultures across the globe.

Favourite quote: “In the future, there will be no female leaders. There will just be leaders” - Sheryl Sandberg, COO of Facebook.

Favourite Movie: Mona Lisa Smile 

Favourite Author: Kahlil Gibran

Favourite Artist: Meryl Streep

Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

England v South Africa Test series:

First Test: at Lord's, England won by 211 runs

Second Test: at Trent Bridge, South Africa won by 340 runs

Third Test: at The Oval, July 27-31

Fourth Test: at Old Trafford, August 4-8

Sri Lanka-India Test series schedule

1st Test July 26-30 in Galle

2nd Test August 3-7 in Colombo

3rd Test August 12-16 in Pallekele

Arrogate's winning run

1. Maiden Special Weight, Santa Anita Park, June 5, 2016

2. Allowance Optional Claiming, Santa Anita Park, June 24, 2016

3. Allowance Optional Claiming, Del Mar, August 4, 2016

4. Travers Stakes, Saratoga, August 27, 2016

5. Breeders' Cup Classic, Santa Anita Park, November 5, 2016

6. Pegasus World Cup, Gulfstream Park, January 28, 2017

7. Dubai World Cup, Meydan Racecourse, March 25, 2017

Drivers’ championship standings after Singapore:

1. Lewis Hamilton, Mercedes - 263
2. Sebastian Vettel, Ferrari - 235
3. Valtteri Bottas, Mercedes - 212
4. Daniel Ricciardo, Red Bull - 162
5. Kimi Raikkonen, Ferrari - 138
6. Sergio Perez, Force India - 68

MATCH INFO

Uefa Champions League, semi-final result:

Liverpool 4-0 Barcelona

Liverpool win 4-3 on aggregate

Champions Legaue final: June 1, Madrid

Our legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants

UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions