<strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10" data-atex-uat="{BaselineShift:LTM=}">Why Brno?</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Beyond the big capitals, worthwhile destinations tend to fall into one of two categories. They either have not much to do but are great to hang out in or are surprisingly packed with attractions without providing the amiable mooch factor. Brno's in the latter category. The second largest city in the Czech Republic, it has a good energy provided by a student population and a pleasant-enough core to wander around. But its strength lies in a remarkably interesting swathe of attractions that don't fall back on the cathedral plus art museum stereotype.</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">A comfortable bed</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10"><a href="http://www.hotelinternational.cz">The Hotel International</a> is a big modern affair, with photos on the walls of celebs who've stayed there, a small basement pool and big breakfast spreads. Rooms feel more functional than the downstairs fanfare would suggest, but it's the classic safe bet. Doubles cost from €137 (Dh591).</span> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10"><a href="http://www.hotelarte.cz">The Hotel Arte</a> looks a little drab from the outside but the 15 rooms inside are fresh, colourful and well kitted-out. Prices start at 1,790Kc (Dh297) for a double.</span> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10"><a href="http://www.hotelgrandezza.cz">The Grandezza</a> has a huge, gorgeous lobby with a stained glass roof, while rooms don't shy away into blandness either. Minibar drinks are free, carpets are loud and the dark woods give a sense of luxuriousness. Robes and slippers are present and correct, and the central location is plum. Expect to pay from €108 (Dh468).</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Find your feet</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Kick off just west of the city centre at the <a href="http://mendelmuseum.muni.cz">Mendel Museum</a>, which is inside a former abbey and now run by the local university. The small pea garden outside is quite significant, as this was where monk Gregor Mendel did the experiments with peas that kickstarted the modern science of genetics.</span> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">From there, head to <a href="http://www.spilberk.cz">Spilberk Castle</a>, which was once a notorious prison. There are several ticket options, but the tour of the casemates – which have been used as prison cells, air raid shelters and ammo storage bays in the past – is the most illuminating.</span> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">The Labyrinth under the <a href="http://ticbrno.cz/en/underground">Cabbage Market</a> is one of several weird underground </span><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]">attractions. It is a network of tunnels and cellars that have been carved out over the years, and used for everything from meat storage to alchemy labs. The entertaining guided tours through the subterranean secret city tell the back story of each chamber.</span> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]">Then, if that wasn't weird enough, there's the Ossuary at St James Church, which is simultaneously macabre and entrancing. Here, thousands of human bones and skulls lie arranged into neat formations in an underground cemetery that has accumulated new arrivals over the centuries. And just to increase the weird-out factor, specially-composed ambient music plays on a loop while you're down there.</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Meet the locals</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Brno's centre lacks warmth, but head into the university-dominated area to the north-west (just to the north of Spilberk Castle) and there's an inviting cluster of cafes and restaurants. <a href="http://www.podnebi.cz">Cafe Podnebi</a> is a great example – it's always full of people chatting over a coffee, and there's a fabulous terrace at the back for summer days.</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Book a table</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10"><a href="http://www.koishi.cz">Koishi</a> is in this cluster and has a smart neighbourhood vibe, which is surprisingly understated given it is one of the best restaurants in the country. Sushi is the speciality, but other Asian-influenced fish dishes such as the 690Kc (Dh114) miso bouillabaisse are mighty fine too.</span> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10"><a href="http://www.restaurant-pavilion.cz">Pavilion</a>, a modernist blocky building in the middle of small park, goes for a more upscale look with gleaming glasses and white table cloths. Dishes are more traditional too, and the 175Kc (Dh29) chocolate lava cake dessert is wonderfully decadent.</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Shoppers' paradise</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Brno's shopping is distinctly underwhelming. The Galerie Vankovka just south of the railway station is the main mall and it focuses on affordable, mid-range fashion. The likes of Pandora, Desigual and O'Neill are there among several less well known local brands.</span> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Galerie Arnie on Starobrnenska offers something more sophisticated, with vivid paintings, elegant glassware and tableside ornaments on sale among the sculptures.</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Don't miss</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10"><a href="http://www.tugendhat.eu">Villa Tugendhat</a> justifiably has Unesco World Heritage status and is one of the most remarkable pieces of modern architecture in the world. A masterpiece of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who also designed much of the furniture inside, it was built as a home for a wealthy textile magnate's daughter. Inside, the massive open-plan living room and windows that drop into the floor combine with more unusual touches such as doors that reach right up to the ceiling. And then you head downstairs into a remarkable network of rooms full of machines that provided early air-conditioning and heating systems. Tours book out weeks in advance – so plan well ahead.</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">What to avoid</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Monday is often the worst day to visit European cities, but it's especially bad in Brno as every attraction of conceivable interest is closed.</span> <strong><span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Getting there</span></strong> <span data-atex-cstyle="$ID/[No character style]" data-atex-track="10">Brno is closer to Vienna in Austria than Czech capital Prague, with direct <a href="http://www.regiojet.com">RegioJet</a> buses from Vienna Airport costing €16 (Dh69) for a two-and-a-half hour trip. <a href="http://www.emirates.com">Emirates</a> flies direct to Vienna from Dubai, with economy return tickets from Dh2,520.</span>