For Gaetano Sciuto, chief executive of Maison Margiela, fashion is not a matter of years, but of mindset. “Maison Margiela is about attitude, not age,” he says with an assured calm that comes from both conviction and experience. Tasked with safeguarding the house’s avant-garde soul while guiding it towards a new generation, Sciuto carries the weight of a legacy that has always lived slightly out of step with convention.
Founded in 1988 by elusive Belgian designer Martin Margiela, the maison was conceived as an anti-fashion brand – its white labels stitched anonymously, its shows staged in unexpected corners of Paris, and its founder steadfastly refusing to be photographed. Ever since, it has intentionally always occupied the margins.
For Sciuto, who joined from Giorgio Armani, this makes for a delicate balancing act. “I need to tell the story of this brand honestly,” he says. “It has not been told enough.” His mandate is to ensure Margiela thrives not only as a cult name, but also as a viable business – without losing the edge that makes it so compelling.
“When I started, people told me: ‘It’s an amazing, beautiful brand. So niche, so edgy,’” Sciuto recalls with a laugh. “But if you stay at the edge, you can’t spark conversation. I want Margiela to be in the middle of the conversation.”
That tension was on full display at the maison’s spring/summer 2026 show under new creative director Glenn Martens. While a children’s orchestra played dressed in oversized suits, models walked with metallic mouthpieces – sinister, sculptural devices that prised open their lips.
Based on the four stitches that hold the brand’s clothing label in place, it was as shocking as it was divisive.
“We expected the reaction. We had hours of discussions with Glenn about it,” Sciuto says. “Even at a recent dinner, two people loved it, two hated it. And that’s the point. Maison Margiela exists to provoke dialogue. Fashion needs us, otherwise it risks becoming boring.”
Still, Sciuto is pragmatic about growth. “If you go to a party of 100 people, two will be wearing Margiela. I don’t want 100. I want five,” he says with a smile. “Just five.” It’s a mantra that has informed everything from product strategy to store design.
When scouting for a new location in Seoul, for example, unable to find space in the main shopping commune, his team instead restored a crumbling house in the leafy enclave of Hannam, adding a garden and cafe. “It’s far from the shopping district, and you have to seek it out. But that’s Margiela,” he explains. “We’re not for everyone. We’re for those who want to belong to our world.”
That philosophy of finding beauty in the unexpected runs deep. “All the best locations are taken or too expensive,” he says. “So, how do I make our voice heard? By staying true to the essence of Margiela, of self-expression and finding beauty in imperfection.”
This ethos now extends beyond fashion. The brand recently added to its famous numerical system, with the launch of Line 2, an art platform to foster creative and cultural collaborations. Starting with an immersive installation at the new Seoul store, the work was a collaboration between sound artist Joyul and visual artist Heemin Chung. Called Elsewhere, Rhema, Open Torso, it explored memory and transformation, and is the first of many such projects.
The maison’s next act is architectural, by way of its first-ever collection of 24 branded residences in Dubai. Designed around house codes including deconstruction, trompe-l’oeil and transformation, details include Venetian glass and gold leaf inspired by the Japanese art of kintsugi, the practice of mending with gold. Designed by Maison Margiela and Italian architect Carlo Colombo, in partnership with Alta Real Estate Development, it is, Sciuto explains, “the architectural expression of an haute couture house”.
At first, it may sound like a surprising pivot for a brand built on anti-luxury ideals, but Martin Margiela himself was long fascinated by interiors. He designed a homeware collection for Milan’s Salone del Mobile in 2009, redesigned the interior of the Maison Champs-Elysées hotel in 2011 and collaborated on a furniture line with Cerruti Baleri Furniture in 2012. He also redecorated the L’Ile aux Oiseaux (Bird Island) suite at Les Sources de Caudalie hotel in Bordeaux.
“Looking at the archives, Martin was always drawn to design,” Sciuto says. “I feel it’s my role to go back and look at the DNA of the brand and use that in a modern way. And that’s why this project came about.”
The project’s scale, limited to 24 homes, is telling. As for being located in Dubai, Sciuto is unequivocal. “Dubai is the place to be right now. It’s becoming one of the most prominent skylines in the world.”
Other evolutions instigated by Sciuto also feel like new territory for the company, such as seating celebrities in the front row and a new campaign starring Miley Cyrus.
Here, too, there has been pushback, he explains, from diehard fans of the brand. “Some people tell us, Margiela should not be about celebrities but, you know, times have changed and being anonymous does not mean not communicating. Being anonymous to me means being an individual with your own beliefs, yet part of a community. To me, it’s communicating the value of creativity, and that we are a disruptive company.”
It’s a difficult balance, Sciuto admits, but he is thankful that he has Martens on board. “He understands that Margiela is a luxury brand. He’s intellectual and finding his way of being disruptive. Our thought process is more creative, strategic, more long term.
“When you get this kind of recipe correct, it doesn’t have to be so literal. This is the difference in terms of Margiela versus the bigger corporate brands. We cannot compete on budget, or having the store in the right location. The only thing we can compete on is being able to send a message that is different.”
He pauses, then smiles. “We’ll always be a polarising brand. That’s Margiela.”
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
Company%20profile
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SWEET%20TOOTH
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Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
RECORD%20BREAKER
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EYoungest%20debutant%20for%20Barcelona%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2015%20years%20and%20290%20days%20v%20Real%20Betis%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EYoungest%20La%20Liga%20starter%20in%20the%2021st%20century%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E16%20years%20and%2038%20days%20v%20Cadiz%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EYoungest%20player%20to%20register%20an%20assist%20in%20La%20Liga%20in%20the%2021st%20century%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E16%20years%20and%2045%20days%20v%20Villarreal%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EYoungest%20debutant%20for%20Spain%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2016%20years%20and%2057%20days%20v%20Georgia%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EYoungest%20goalscorer%20for%20Spain%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2016%20years%20and%2057%20days%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EYoungest%20player%20to%20score%20in%20a%20Euro%20qualifier%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2016%20years%20and%2057%20days%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
Match info
Uefa Champions League Group H
Manchester United v Young Boys, Tuesday, midnight (UAE)
Final round
25 under - Antoine Rozner (FRA)
23 - Francesco Laporta (ITA), Mike Lorenzo-Vera (FRA), Andy Sullivan (ENG), Matt Wallace (ENG)
21 - Grant Forrest (SCO)
20 - Ross Fisher (ENG)
19 - Steven Brown (ENG), Joakim Lagergren (SWE), Niklas Lemke (SWE), Marc Warren (SCO), Bernd Wiesberger (AUT)
if you go
The flights
Emirates flies to Delhi with fares starting from around Dh760 return, while Etihad fares cost about Dh783 return. From Delhi, there are connecting flights to Lucknow.
Where to stay
It is advisable to stay in Lucknow and make a day trip to Kannauj. A stay at the Lebua Lucknow hotel, a traditional Lucknowi mansion, is recommended. Prices start from Dh300 per night (excluding taxes).
Zayed Sustainability Prize
How Beautiful this world is!
Directed by: Craig Gillespie
Starring: Emma Stone, Emma Thompson, Joel Fry
4/5
Our legal columnist
Name: Yousef Al Bahar
Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994
Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers
COMPANY PROFILE
Company name: Blah
Started: 2018
Founder: Aliyah Al Abbar and Hend Al Marri
Based: Dubai
Industry: Technology and talent management
Initial investment: Dh20,000
Investors: Self-funded
Total customers: 40
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo
Power: 247hp at 6,500rpm
Torque: 370Nm from 1,500-3,500rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 7.8L/100km
Price: from Dh94,900
On sale: now
Who's who in Yemen conflict
Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government
Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council
Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south
Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
The specs: 2018 Maserati GranTurismo/GranCabrio
Price, base Dh485,000 (GranTurismo) and Dh575,000 (GranCabrio)
Engine 4.7L V8
Transmission Six-speed automatic
Power 460hp @ 7,000rpm
Torque 520Nm @ 4,750rpm
Fuel economy, combined 14.3L (GranTurismo) and 14.5L (GranCabrio) / 100km
Dubai World Cup Carnival card:
6.30pm: Handicap (Turf) | US$175,000 | 2,410 metres
7.05pm: UAE 1000 Guineas Trial Conditions (Dirt) | $100,000 | 1,400m
7.40pm: Handicap (T) | $145,000 | 1,000m
8.15pm: Dubawi Stakes Group 3 (D) | $200,000 | 1,200m
8.50pm: Singspiel Stakes Group 3 (T) | $200,000 | 1,800m
9.25pm: Handicap (T) | $175,000 | 1,400m
FINAL LEADERBOARD
1. Jordan Spieth (USA) 65 69 65 69 - 12-under-par
2. Matt Kuchar (USA) 65 71 66 69 - 9-under
3. Li Haotong (CHN) 69 73 69 63 - 6-under
T4. Rory McIlroy (NIR) 71 68 69 67 - 5-under
T4. Rafael Cabrera-Bello (ESP) 67 73 67 68 - 5-under
T6. Marc Leishman (AUS) 69 76 66 65 - 4-under
T6. Matthew Southgate (ENG) 72 72 67 65 - 4-under
T6. Brooks Koepka (USA) 65 72 68 71 - 4-under
T6. Branden Grace (RSA) 70 74 62 70 - 4-under
T6. Alexander Noren (SWE) 68 72 69 67 - 4-under
Results
Ashraf Ghani 50.64 per cent
Abdullah Abdullah 39.52 per cent
Gulbuddin Hekmatyar 3.85 per cent
Rahmatullah Nabil 1.8 per cent
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EQureos%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EUAE%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ELaunch%20year%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2021%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E33%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESoftware%20and%20technology%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%243%20million%0D%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Other acts on the Jazz Garden bill
Sharrie Williams
The American singer is hugely respected in blues circles due to her passionate vocals and songwriting. Born and raised in Michigan, Williams began recording and touring as a teenage gospel singer. Her career took off with the blues band The Wiseguys. Such was the acclaim of their live shows that they toured throughout Europe and in Africa. As a solo artist, Williams has also collaborated with the likes of the late Dizzy Gillespie, Van Morrison and Mavis Staples.
Lin Rountree
An accomplished smooth jazz artist who blends his chilled approach with R‘n’B. Trained at the Duke Ellington School of the Arts in Washington, DC, Rountree formed his own band in 2004. He has also recorded with the likes of Kem, Dwele and Conya Doss. He comes to Dubai on the back of his new single Pass The Groove, from his forthcoming 2018 album Stronger Still, which may follow his five previous solo albums in cracking the top 10 of the US jazz charts.
Anita Williams
Dubai-based singer Anita Williams will open the night with a set of covers and swing, jazz and blues standards that made her an in-demand singer across the emirate. The Irish singer has been performing in Dubai since 2008 at venues such as MusicHall and Voda Bar. Her Jazz Garden appearance is career highlight as she will use the event to perform the original song Big Blue Eyes, the single from her debut solo album, due for release soon.
Two-step truce
The UN-brokered ceasefire deal for Hodeidah will be implemented in two stages, with the first to be completed before the New Year begins, according to the Arab Coalition supporting the Yemeni government.
By midnight on December 31, the Houthi rebels will have to withdraw from the ports of Hodeidah, Ras Issa and Al Saqef, coalition officials told The National.
The second stage will be the complete withdrawal of all pro-government forces and rebels from Hodeidah city, to be completed by midnight on January 7.
The process is to be overseen by a Redeployment Co-ordination Committee (RCC) comprising UN monitors and representatives of the government and the rebels.
The agreement also calls the deployment of UN-supervised neutral forces in the city and the establishment of humanitarian corridors to ensure distribution of aid across the country.
Desert Warrior
Starring: Anthony Mackie, Aiysha Hart, Ben Kingsley
Director: Rupert Wyatt
Rating: 3/5
APPLE IPAD MINI (A17 PRO)
Display: 21cm Liquid Retina Display, 2266 x 1488, 326ppi, 500 nits
Chip: Apple A17 Pro, 6-core CPU, 5-core GPU, 16-core Neural Engine
Storage: 128/256/512GB
Main camera: 12MP wide, f/1.8, digital zoom up to 5x, Smart HDR 4
Front camera: 12MP ultra-wide, f/2.4, Smart HDR 4, full-HD @ 25/30/60fps
Biometrics: Touch ID, Face ID
Colours: Blue, purple, space grey, starlight
In the box: iPad mini, USB-C cable, 20W USB-C power adapter
Price: From Dh2,099
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