In Gaza, coffee is more than a drink. For residents living through its brutal war, the beverage has been a rite, a coping mechanism, a connection to normality. But that cherished comfort has become a rare luxury, nearly unattainable due to border closures, supply chain collapse and the suffocating effects of a conflict that has dragged on for nearly 21 months.
Loay Abu Shaar, 34, a resident of the Al Nasr district, remembers the early days of the war when the withdrawal began. “Before the war, I used to buy half a kilo of coffee every week and drink coffee three times a day,” he told The National. “My brain got used to it, I couldn’t do without it.”
But when he was forcibly displaced to the south, the coffee disappeared within days. “I started feeling like my head was splitting. I was addicted, and not just to coffee, but to cigarettes too. Both were gone. I couldn’t find balance any more.”
Coffee, prepared in the Turkish style, has long been a central part of Gaza’s culture. Even under siege, even with electricity cuts and food shortages, the smell of freshly ground beans often filled homes, alleys and refugee camps. “People in Gaza are known for their love of coffee,” says Saeb Shaheen, 43, who comes from a family of coffee sellers. “Especially smokers, we’re among the heaviest coffee drinkers in the world.”
Mr Shaheen, who has continued to roast and sell coffee during the war, even after being displaced from his home in the Jabalia camp, says he watched supplies dwindle and prices skyrocket.
“At first, coffee was still available in the north where I stayed. But then it began to vanish. A kilo went from 40 shekels [$12] to 100 dollars, and now it's reached 2,000 shekels per kilo,” he says. “I still try to sell, but I have to mix beans with chickpeas, lentils and cardamom to make it stretch. We sell that mix for 800 shekels. It’s not real coffee, but what can we do?”
It’s not just about coffee. It’s about stripping us of the few things that bring us comfort
Nesma Hameed,
resident of Al Shati refugee camp
Nesma Hameed, 47, from Al Shati refugee camp, said the shortages feel personal. “In my house, with my husband and three kids, we used to consume a kilo of coffee a week. It was our thing,” she told The National. “Coffee lifts your mood. It calms your nerves. It’s how we cope with life here. When that was taken from us, it felt like a part of us was gone.”
Ms Hameed is among many Gazans who see the disappearance of coffee as part of a larger pattern of deprivation imposed on them by Israeli restrictions on the entry of goods. “It’s not just about coffee. It’s about stripping us of the few things that bring us comfort," she says. "We’re not just hungry, we’re emotionally drained. And when you take coffee away from someone in Gaza, you take away a piece of their resilience.”
Unable to afford what little real coffee remains, many residents have turned to desperate substitutes, roasting lentils, chickpeas or barley in attempts to mimic the bitter, earthy flavour.
“It tastes terrible, but I still drink it," Mr Abu Shaar admits. "I think my hand just got used to holding the cup. Without it, I get irritable. I yell at my wife and kids for no reason. It’s like something in me is missing.”
This war has changed the face of Gaza in countless ways, but perhaps few changes are as quietly telling as the absence of coffee, the aroma no longer wafting through its streets and homes.
“Coffee is tied to our pain and our peace,” says Mr Shaheen. “When it’s gone, it’s like even the small joys we had are under attack.”
Until the borders reopen, until supplies resume, Gaza’s coffee drinkers remain in limbo, deprived of not only a drink but of a rite that once gave rhythm to their days and strength to their spirit.
"The first thing I’ll do, once coffee is available, is prepare a large amount and offer it to passers-by on the road, so our joy can be shared with coffee," Ms Hameed says.
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
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BEACH SOCCER WORLD CUP
Group A
Paraguay
Japan
Switzerland
USA
Group B
Uruguay
Mexico
Italy
Tahiti
Group C
Belarus
UAE
Senegal
Russia
Group D
Brazil
Oman
Portugal
Nigeria
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Moonfall
Director: Rolan Emmerich
Stars: Patrick Wilson, Halle Berry
Rating: 3/5
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Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
Find the right policy for you
Don’t wait until the week you fly to sign up for insurance – get it when you book your trip. Insurance covers you for cancellation and anything else that can go wrong before you leave.
Some insurers, such as World Nomads, allow you to book once you are travelling – but, as Mr Mohammed found out, pre-existing medical conditions are not covered.
Check your credit card before booking insurance to see if you have any travel insurance as a benefit – most UAE banks, such as Emirates NBD, First Abu Dhabi Bank and Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, have cards that throw in insurance as part of their package. But read the fine print – they may only cover emergencies while you’re travelling, not cancellation before a trip.
Pre-existing medical conditions such as a heart condition, diabetes, epilepsy and even asthma may not be included as standard. Again, check the terms, exclusions and limitations of any insurance carefully.
If you want trip cancellation or curtailment, baggage loss or delay covered, you may need a higher-grade plan, says Ambareen Musa of Souqalmal.com. Decide how much coverage you need for emergency medical expenses or personal liability. Premium insurance packages give up to $1 million (Dh3.7m) in each category, Ms Musa adds.
Don’t wait for days to call your insurer if you need to make a claim. You may be required to notify them within 72 hours. Gather together all receipts, emails and reports to prove that you paid for something, that you didn’t use it and that you did not get reimbursed.
Finally, consider optional extras you may need, says Sarah Pickford of Travel Counsellors, such as a winter sports holiday. Also ensure all individuals can travel independently on that cover, she adds. And remember: “Cheap isn’t necessarily best.”
F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
TEACHERS' PAY - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Pay varies significantly depending on the school, its rating and the curriculum. Here's a rough guide as of January 2021:
- top end schools tend to pay Dh16,000-17,000 a month - plus a monthly housing allowance of up to Dh6,000. These tend to be British curriculum schools rated 'outstanding' or 'very good', followed by American schools
- average salary across curriculums and skill levels is about Dh10,000, recruiters say
- it is becoming more common for schools to provide accommodation, sometimes in an apartment block with other teachers, rather than hand teachers a cash housing allowance
- some strong performing schools have cut back on salaries since the pandemic began, sometimes offering Dh16,000 including the housing allowance, which reflects the slump in rental costs, and sheer demand for jobs
- maths and science teachers are most in demand and some schools will pay up to Dh3,000 more than other teachers in recognition of their technical skills
- at the other end of the market, teachers in some Indian schools, where fees are lower and competition among applicants is intense, can be paid as low as Dh3,000 per month
- in Indian schools, it has also become common for teachers to share residential accommodation, living in a block with colleagues
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Electric scooters: some rules to remember
- Riders must be 14-years-old or over
- Wear a protective helmet
- Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
- Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
- Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
- Do not drive outside designated lanes
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
MATCH INFO
Who: France v Italy
When: Friday, 11pm (UAE)
TV: BeIN Sports
