Alia Khan believes that while Islamic fashion is centred on the faithful, a consumer base that will grow, it also holds great appeal for followers of other religions. Antonie Robertson / The National
Alia Khan believes that while Islamic fashion is centred on the faithful, a consumer base that will grow, it also holds great appeal for followers of other religions. Antonie Robertson / The National Show more

‘Time for Islamic couture’



DUBAI // Fashion designers have bemoaned the fact that there are no major fashion houses in the UAE to cater to the growing market in so-called “Islamic fashion”.

A Dubai Chamber of Commerce and Industry report said the UAE was the largest importer of clothes in the region, with about US$7.3 billion (Dh13.6bn) spent per year. As a whole, Muslim countries import about US$102bn (Dh375bn) worth of clothes.

Abdul Rahman Saif Al Ghurair, chairman of Dubai Chamber of Commerce, said: “While the 1.6 billion Muslims around the world represent about 23 per cent of the world’s total population, the market does not have any prominent Muslim clothing brand. As a result, the Muslim population has not been catered for in terms of their clothes and fashion aspirations.”

He said the lack of a global Islamic clothing brand offered an opportunity for UAE fashion designers and companies to become market leaders.

Alia Khan is the founder of Islamic Fashion Design Council, an organisation established to develop the Islamic fashion industry in Dubai.

She described Islamic fashion as clothes that were “worn primarily by practising Muslims who have committed to the Islamic principles of dressing”. “However, there is a secondary following of conservative consumers ranging from people of other faiths, modest consumers,” she said.

“As long as the worldwide Muslim population keeps growing as fast as it does, then this market will only increase exponentially.”

Abeer Al Suwaidi, an Emirati fashion designer, said there was a need for more clothes designed specifically for Muslims.

“I seriously think that there is a definite lack of modest clothing in the industry,” she said.

Bong Guerrero, founder and chief executive of the Fashion Forward fashion show in Dubai, said the UAE was the perfect place for a homegrown clothing label to find its footing.

“The UAE offers a perfect blend of cultures, being home to a multitude of nationalities, each bringing different styles and fashion tastes,” he said.

akhaishgi@thenational.ae

The biog

Name: Fareed Lafta

Age: 40

From: Baghdad, Iraq

Mission: Promote world peace

Favourite poet: Al Mutanabbi

Role models: His parents 

Children who witnessed blood bath want to help others

Aged just 11, Khulood Al Najjar’s daughter, Nora, bravely attempted to fight off Philip Spence. Her finger was injured when she put her hand in between the claw hammer and her mother’s head.

As a vital witness, she was forced to relive the ordeal by police who needed to identify the attacker and ensure he was found guilty.

Now aged 16, Nora has decided she wants to dedicate her career to helping other victims of crime.

“It was very horrible for her. She saw her mum, dying, just next to her eyes. But now she just wants to go forward,” said Khulood, speaking about how her eldest daughter was dealing with the trauma of the incident five years ago. “She is saying, 'mama, I want to be a lawyer, I want to help people achieve justice'.”

Khulood’s youngest daughter, Fatima, was seven at the time of the attack and attempted to help paramedics responding to the incident.

“Now she wants to be a maxillofacial doctor,” Khulood said. “She said to me ‘it is because a maxillofacial doctor returned your face, mama’. Now she wants to help people see themselves in the mirror again.”

Khulood’s son, Saeed, was nine in 2014 and slept through the attack. While he did not witness the trauma, this made it more difficult for him to understand what had happened. He has ambitions to become an engineer.

A State of Passion

Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

The Outsider

Stephen King, Penguin

Not Dark Yet

Shelby Lynne and Allison Moorer

Four stars

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

The bio

Date of Birth: April 25, 1993
Place of Birth: Dubai, UAE
Marital Status: Single
School: Al Sufouh in Jumeirah, Dubai
University: Emirates Airline National Cadet Programme and Hamdan University
Job Title: Pilot, First Officer
Number of hours flying in a Boeing 777: 1,200
Number of flights: Approximately 300
Hobbies: Exercising
Nicest destination: Milan, New Zealand, Seattle for shopping
Least nice destination: Kabul, but someone has to do it. It’s not scary but at least you can tick the box that you’ve been
Favourite place to visit: Dubai, there’s no place like home

The Baghdad Clock

Shahad Al Rawi, Oneworld