The welcome
The valet’s greeting lacks any kind of wow factor but, once inside, I find out why: it’s very busy. Unlike many local hotels, guests arriving at Le Royal Méridien Abu Dhabi are not treated like rare gems but with a pleasant efficiency. In the lobby, all the staff are already with other guests so I’m left to find the reception desk by myself. I’m not made to feel special but check-in is smooth and I am in my suite on the 16th floor within 10 minutes.
The neighbourhood
This is downtown Abu Dhabi, old style, at the east end of the Corniche. Sofitel opened its doors just down the road but the more starry venues (Jumeirah Etihad Towers and the Saadiyat Island hotels) stretch off at some distance. Nonetheless, Le Royal Méridien is a smart choice thanks to a two-year-long refurbishment of many rooms, the lobby and dining areas. There is, however, little reason to leave the hotel and explore the immediate area, thanks to the well-considered range of restaurants within its walls, not to mention the spa, gym and pleasant pool.
The room
The design of my deluxe suite is the only note of genuine disappointment. It’s comfortable and the strip of windows running its full length provides great views, but the crowded layout and mismatched furniture is a misstep. That said, the bed is comfy, air-con efficient, rainfall shower and televisions easy to operate and, thank goodness, given the proliferation of light sources, only a few buttons need to be pressed before darkness descends.
The scene
The hotel appears to be doing a roaring trade in (mostly male) business clientele with a steady stream of Abu Dhabi residents patronising its restaurants.
The service
Nothing to write home about but neither were there any disasters and that’s good enough at this price point.
The food
Le Royal Méridien Abu Dhabi really steps up when it comes to food. The all-day dining, bistro restaurant within the awfully named lobby area, The Hub, is bright and airy, with a cafe and “artisan bakery” that are worth dropping into off the street. Then there’s an Irish-themed bar, Italian restaurant, modern American kitchen and at the top end, the newly opened revolving restaurant, Stratos, that updates an Abu Dhabi landmark. I settle in at Market Kitchen, the casual “family kitchen” restaurant from the New York-based French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The decor is almost (but not quite) New York loft-style with triple height ceilings and exposed brickwork. It’s buzzing thanks to piped music, a counter bar and two large tables of diners. The food itself is excellent, but that’s in keeping with the casual theme. Highlights are the beef short rib served with different sauce purées, a truffle and fontina cheese pizza and a naughty salted-caramel sundae. The five-course tasting menu costs Dh245 per person.
Loved
As an Abu Dhabi resident, I loved the views of that part of the coastline and the almost furtive peeps of old, low-rise cityscape against the shinier new developments. And the restaurants are a revelation.
Hated
Call me churlish but I can live without a key card that “is a work of art” designed by a “global array of visionaries” according to not one but two specially dedicated leaflets.
The verdict
A great local hotel that more than makes up for its rather absurd sense of room design thanks to its dining scene.
The bottom line
A deluxe room costs from Dh540 per night, including tax and Wi-Fi. Le Royal Méridien Abu Dhabi, Sheikh Khalifa Street, Abu Dhabi (www.leroyalmeridien-abudhabi.com; 02 674 2020).