It’s not often that menswear trends from the runway make a lot of sense to the average buyer. So when something out of the ordinary makes a headline, we tend to sit up straight. Florals for spring; not exactly something to shout from the rafters by all accounts, but for menswear, it’s certainly something.
The problem is that menswear simply offers less. It’s far more restrictive than womenswear in terms of fabric, shape, structure and form, which are all key components for making a statement. All you see in stores from the menswear shows are mostly the suits, shirts, jackets and coats – more often than not in varying shades of navy, black or grey.
Which leads us to the question: can men wear florals? Certainly. Not just any florals, mind you – for there’s nothing cheerful or brash about these flowers. The new florals offer a final departure from last season’s optical prints, nodding towards a decidedly sophisticated and darker season to come.
Florals tend to scare the boys a little. There’s a sickly sweetness from a bloom that turns away those who like to be taken a little more seriously. There’s a point, especially in menswear, when fashion crosses the line from fancy to fancy dress.
That need not be so; for this has nothing to do with thrills and frills.
There’s a big difference between refined sophistication and (without leaning on any negative connotations) girlishness. But if girlie patterns are out, what do we look to?
Let’s start with Prada, where every single look shown on the runway included the print in some form or other. However, perhaps in an effort to encourage a wider audience, the print’s normally upbeat and delicate nature had been replaced by a stronger, darker, more-masculine approach. Abstract patterns came in sombre tones of burgundy, brown, yellow and black. No sign of a clichéd Hawaiian shirt in sight.
Gucci applied the same pattern to a single- and double-breasted suit in a bottle-green leaf print with the addition of lighter green and black flowers. Dries Van Noten followed suit, featuring an array of beautiful, tapestry-esque florals with a vintage aesthetic, while Burberry offered up a lighter, brighter take on the trend with a micro daisy print.
Your go-to will come in the form of sportswear – familiar shapes such as T-shirts, sweatshirts or bomber jackets, with detailing such as ribbed cuffs and waistbands, will help to rein things in a little and stick to a certain comfort zone.
What we’re aiming for here are high-octane botanical prints anchored by heavy black accents. Colour-wise, stick to muted tones of burgundy, mustard, blue and red, offset by black or navy blues to keep a modern hue.
If committing to an all-over, floral-embellished piece is simply too much, focus on a bold detail used within your outfit instead – a flash of a floral pocket or collar can be equally exciting as working the trend from head to toe. Go for separates instead, and play around with layering. Think eclectic without crazy; dapper not loud.
In menswear, it often boils down to the small details that help make the grade – patterned jacket linings, interesting shirt collars, a buttonless blazer or a collarless shirt. These details will set a designer (and the wearer) apart from the rest.
Because all that most of us tend to want from clothing choices is something comfortable and non-abrasive, but (crucially) that will still make us feel good.
Regardless, these florals are showing no signs of wilting. Give them a try. You’ll be surprised – they’re tougher than you think.
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