Hotel insider: Jumeirah Grand Hotel Via Veneto, Rome, Italy

The welcome

We’re escorted by a bellman to the check-in desk. It’s a sit-down affair. We accept the offer of an espresso while we complete the registration process. It’s a friendly, professional exchange. We’re escorted to our room and shown its features. Our travel bags arrive without delay.

The neighbourhood

Centrally located on the swish Via Veneto, the street that was immortalised as the primary setting in Frederico Fellini's 1960 film La Dolce Vita. Fellini's picture portrayed the street as the height of elegance and glamour. It's a reputation still earned today with its gorgeous hotels, fine restaurants and toy shops. The hotel is a leisurely stroll to the Trevi Fountain or the Spanish Steps and a five-minute walk to Barberini metro station. A short walk in the opposite direction takes us to the Villa Borghese, an expansive park, where we find a charming pond with row boats and go for a paddle.

The room

Our fourth-floor room is decorated in modern, warm tones: the walls are papered with tan-textured paper, alongside burgundy carpets and lacquered wooden furniture. The walls feature black and white photographs of Roman antiquities. The space of the superior room is generous, especially the bathroom. Cookies and fruit delivered to our room each evening is a nice, thoughtful touch.

The service

A bit wobbly. On three occasions, we call the reception/concierge desks and get no response. When we stop at the concierge desk seeking advice on the best area to find local art galleries, the staff seem ill-prepared to handle requests other than routine tourist destinations or ticket bookings. However, the breakfast restaurant staff are exceptionally gracious and enthusiastic, taking the time to make sure that all the guests leave satisfied.

The scene

The hotel has a modern, relaxed vibe. It’s far from bustling, but there’s always guests lingering leisurely in the lobby – no matter the time of day or night. English speakers dominate the breakfast chatter and, it seems, make up the majority of the hotel’s guests.

The food

The hotel makes all its own breads, pastries and cakes – and they’re incredible. The cornettos are light, but bursting with cream. Combined with the strong Italian coffee, I can’t imagine a better way to start the day. The all-day-dining Time Restaurant serves a breakfast buffet with à la carte hot dishes (the eggs benedict are perfectly poached). In the evening, Magnolia provides a fusion of Italian and the surprising. Take the pop salad (€20 [Dh100]), for example: it combines steamed lobster, scrambled eggs, popcorn and vegetables. Even the seafood is done with flair as evidenced by the passion fruit scallops served with candied ginger and artichoke chips (€32 [Dh160]).

Loved

The lobby. It features custom-made furniture pieces by local artists, and the walls are filled with amazing works by Salvador Dali, Pablo Picasso and Joan Miro.

Hated

Repeatedly getting no answer when calling reception/concierge from our room. I was also disappointed that the rooftop deck, which is touted for its view, was closed for repairs during our visit.

The verdict

A comfortable stay with some memorable features.

The bottom line

Superior rooms at the Jumeirah Grand Hotel Via Veneto, 155 Via Veneto, Rome (www.jumeirah.com; 0039 06 487 881) cost from €462 (Dh2,307) per night, including taxes.

lkoot@thenational.ae