The pungent smell of henna is one that I know far too well. Family members would often gang up to persuade me to surrender my hands to a henna artist during our Pakistani weddings. Even then, I would only settle for a thin bracelet on one hand, while others would fill their palms with labyrinths of vines and flowers, from their fingertips to the crevices of their wrists, and often on both sides of their hands. I preferred something less conspicuous, lacking the patience for the lengthy, messy drying process, and insecure about how my classmates would react. Throughout my upbringing in an American school, henna was not "cool". Rather, it was the mark of something alien, viewed to be foreign and strange.
Over the past year or two, however, something changed. I’m now first in line at weddings to have my henna applied, and jump at the chance to put it on for Eid, too – and it’s not because I’ve grown to appreciate my South Asian heritage. Before the artist can begin, I pull out my phone, prepared with photos that I’ve saved of inspirational henna ideas. Gone are the customary paisleys and peacocks representative of traditional henna – in their place are deviant drawings incorporating jagged tribal stripes, chevrons and arrows with occasional commercial icons such as birds or musical notes. One photo in particular shows a blogger’s outfit post from London Fashion Week. The hand that grasps her skull-studded leather clutch is covered in a decadent henna design comprising various rings around her fingers. In other images, henna-adorned hands can be seen in the same frames as cut-off denim shorts, Nike trainers and matte black manicures. Henna, evidently, is an art form that has gone viral.
Henna, or mehndi, as it is called in Hindi and Urdu, has been used throughout South Asia, Africa and the Middle East for thousands of years to mark celebratory occasions, from weddings in India to circumcisions in Morocco. It’s extracted from Lawsonia inermis, a plant that thrives in warm climates. The custom of applying henna is laden with symbolism – in South Asian cultures, it’s said that the darker the colour of henna on a bride’s hands, the more her mother-in-law will love her, and that until it fades completely, the bride does not have to do any housework. One tradition even involves incorporating the groom’s name into the elaborate illustration on the bride’s hands. In North Africa, symbols would be drawn in henna to promote fertility and to ward off the “evil eye”.
It’s unlikely that most of today’s henna users are aware of these age-old meanings. A quick search of henna hashtags on Instagram shows that DIY enthusiasts around the world are using the concoction in their own innovative ways, inspired by tradition but giving their work a contemporary edge.
Whereas the henna of the past was usually densely drawn and almost completely filled, this neo-henna is more spaced-out and often covers only the fingers or a portion of the hand. A henna trend of late has been to imitate the look of a fingerless glove – perhaps an ode to Karl Lagerfeld’s signature leather-clad palms. Henna artists produce the image in different ways – some using traditional strokes of vines and lines; others drawing flowers within lace motifs or painting delicate grids to create a fishnet effect. Also in vogue are rosary-inspired depictions, where henna is used to replicate the image of prayer beads wrapped around the fingers. In such instances, henna acts as semi-permanent jewellery, with immaculate detail given to the chains and decorative charm tassels.
One henna artist, Sara Vazir, believes that in the UAE, henna is something of a natural accessory for women. “No outfit is complete without some organic arm candy, and henna can be seen at all events, from fashion launches to everyday get-togethers,” she says. Vazir started her business, Sara’s Henna, five years ago, and has observed the spread of the trend internationally. Earlier this year, she gave a presentation on henna at a TEDx talk in Hong Kong, and she also attended the 2014 Henna Conference in Los Angeles.
Wearing a black paisley-print jumpsuit with an off-white lace cardigan, Vazir manoeuvres her henna cone with a speedy artistic flourish, effortlessly recreating her signature lace boudoir gloves on a client at the Dubai-based Snob salon and boutique, located on Al Wasl Road. Since its launch about a year ago, Snob has quickly become a local favourite, offering sought-after services like chic manicures, braided up-dos and flash tattoos, all within an upscale, shabby-chic atmosphere. Aware of the pull and popularity of henna, the managing partners Resham Khan and Haya Jhail introduced henna at Snob this past Eid season, and invited Vazir to apply it onto clients. Between Snob’s existing clientele and Vazir’s social media following, 120 clients booked up the available slots for the day, many requesting Vazir’s popular lace gloves.
Some clients like to have their henna further customised, and ask for particular names or quotes to be incorporated into the design. It's common to see text like "freedom", "hope" and even "hakuna matata" (a Swahili phrase meaning "no worries" that was popularised by The Lion King) or Arabic words for "love", "faith" and "happiness" spelt out in henna. Many in this region prefer black henna instead of the traditional red-brown colour, since it bears more of a resemblance to authentic tattoos, which are not typically endorsed in Islam. Since it's only temporary, black henna provides them with a way to get around the tattoo taboo. But because of reported skin infections and allergic reactions, black henna is banned here – under orders from the public-health department in Abu Dhabi, salons are regularly inspected to ensure their compliance. "There's no such thing as real black henna – it's actually just hair dye," explains Vazir, who makes her own henna using henna leaves, eucalyptus oil, lemon and sugar.
In the Middle East, we’re increasingly pushing the boundaries of henna into the realm of mainstream tattoos, while on the other hand, westerners are enthralled by its natural, exotic allure. Last year, Rihanna made headlines for getting an actual tattoo on her hand that was inspired by traditional henna, and the blogger-turned-model Nyane Lebajoa followed suit soon after. Perhaps this celebrity stamp of approval and nod towards eastern heritage has contributed to the growing henna trend locally, triggering the mad rush for henna during Eid and wedding seasons. “Because it’s so socially acceptable, girls love to experiment with unique designs,” says Khan.
While “experimental” henna perseveres, the art form continues to advance within a traditional framework, too. Vazir takes great care to personalise the henna designs of her brides by creating unique, customised designs for each. “I portray the bride’s love story using motifs such as skylines, landmarks, portraits of her and her groom and the scene of her proposal,” she explains. “It makes the henna special and creates a beautiful fusion of traditional and modern.”
There’s no tension between traditional henna and the current henna craze – the two thrive together, and will likely remain resilient in the mainstream. “Henna is ingrained in the culture of the UAE,” points out Khan. Vazir is confident in its everlasting trend appeal. “Henna art keeps gaining momentum and exposure, and because social media keeps spreading designs worldwide, I don’t think the fad will be dying [out] anytime soon,” she says.
At Snob, I let Vazir try out her latest henna sketch on my hand. Inspired by the prints on her clutch, she combines bold stripes with an exotic patch of flowers, complete with the padlock from the purse. It’s a pattern never seen before in henna. As I drive home. I wonder whether this design will be all the rage next Eid season? We’ll have to wait and see.
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THE LOWDOWN
Romeo Akbar Walter
Rating: 2/5 stars
Produced by: Dharma Productions, Azure Entertainment
Directed by: Robby Grewal
Cast: John Abraham, Mouni Roy, Jackie Shroff and Sikandar Kher
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
The Beach Bum
Director: Harmony Korine
Stars: Matthew McConaughey, Isla Fisher, Snoop Dogg
Two stars
Electoral College Victory
Trump has so far secured 295 Electoral College votes, according to the Associated Press, exceeding the 270 needed to win. Only Nevada and Arizona remain to be called, and both swing states are leaning Republican. Trump swept all five remaining swing states, North Carolina, Georgia, Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin, sealing his path to victory and giving him a strong mandate.
Popular Vote Tally
The count is ongoing, but Trump currently leads with nearly 51 per cent of the popular vote to Harris’s 47.6 per cent. Trump has over 72.2 million votes, while Harris trails with approximately 67.4 million.
HIV on the rise in the region
A 2019 United Nations special analysis on Aids reveals 37 per cent of new HIV infections in the Mena region are from people injecting drugs.
New HIV infections have also risen by 29 per cent in western Europe and Asia, and by 7 per cent in Latin America, but declined elsewhere.
Egypt has shown the highest increase in recorded cases of HIV since 2010, up by 196 per cent.
Access to HIV testing, treatment and care in the region is well below the global average.
Few statistics have been published on the number of cases in the UAE, although a UNAIDS report said 1.5 per cent of the prison population has the virus.
The biog
Hobbies: Salsa dancing “It's in my blood” and listening to music in different languages
Favourite place to travel to: “Thailand, as it's gorgeous, food is delicious, their massages are to die for!”
Favourite food: “I'm a vegetarian, so I can't get enough of salad.”
Favourite film: “I love watching documentaries, and am fascinated by nature, animals, human anatomy. I love watching to learn!”
Best spot in the UAE: “I fell in love with Fujairah and anywhere outside the big cities, where I can get some peace and get a break from the busy lifestyle”
The specs
Engine: 77.4kW all-wheel-drive dual motor
Power: 320bhp
Torque: 605Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh219,000
On sale: Now
Thor: Ragnarok
Dir: Taika Waititi
Starring: Chris Hemsworth, Tom Hiddleston, Cate Blanchett, Jeff Goldblum, Mark Ruffalo, Tessa Thompson
Four stars
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Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre, four-cylinder turbo
Transmission: seven-speed dual clutch automatic
Power: 169bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh54,500
On sale: now
BRAZIL SQUAD
Alisson (Liverpool), Daniel Fuzato (Roma), Ederson (Man City); Alex Sandro (Juventus), Danilo (Juventus), Eder Militao (Real Madrid), Emerson (Real Betis), Felipe (Atletico Madrid), Marquinhos (PSG), Renan Lodi (Atletico Madrid), Thiago Silva (PSG); Arthur (Barcelona), Casemiro (Real Madrid), Douglas Luiz (Aston Villa), Fabinho (Liverpool), Lucas Paqueta (AC Milan), Philippe Coutinho (Bayern Munich); David Neres (Ajax), Gabriel Jesus (Man City), Richarlison (Everton), Roberto Firmino (Liverpool), Rodrygo (Real Madrid), Willian (Chelsea).
About Housecall
Date started: July 2020
Founders: Omar and Humaid Alzaabi
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: HealthTech
# of staff: 10
Funding to date: Self-funded
From Zero
Artist: Linkin Park
Label: Warner Records
Number of tracks: 11
Rating: 4/5
Call of Duty: Black Ops 6
Developer: Treyarch, Raven Software
Publisher: Activision
Console: PlayStation 4 & 5, Windows, Xbox One & Series X/S
Rating: 3.5/5
The specs
Engine: 3.8-litre V6
Power: 295hp at 6,000rpm
Torque: 355Nm at 5,200rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 10.7L/100km
Price: Dh179,999-plus
On sale: now
The specs
Engine: 5.2-litre V10
Power: 640hp at 8,000rpm
Torque: 565Nm at 6,500rpm
Transmission: 7-speed dual-clutch auto
Price: From Dh1 million
On sale: Q3 or Q4 2022
Uefa Nations League: How it works
The Uefa Nations League, introduced last year, has reached its final stage, to be played over five days in northern Portugal. The format of its closing tournament is compact, spread over two semi-finals, with the first, Portugal versus Switzerland in Porto on Wednesday evening, and the second, England against the Netherlands, in Guimaraes, on Thursday.
The winners of each semi will then meet at Porto’s Dragao stadium on Sunday, with the losing semi-finalists contesting a third-place play-off in Guimaraes earlier that day.
Qualifying for the final stage was via League A of the inaugural Nations League, in which the top 12 European countries according to Uefa's co-efficient seeding system were divided into four groups, the teams playing each other twice between September and November. Portugal, who finished above Italy and Poland, successfully bid to host the finals.
UAE central contracts
Full time contracts
Rohan Mustafa, Ahmed Raza, Mohammed Usman, Chirag Suri, Mohammed Boota, Sultan Ahmed, Zahoor Khan, Junaid Siddique, Waheed Ahmed, Zawar Farid
Part time contracts
Aryan Lakra, Ansh Tandon, Karthik Meiyappan, Rahul Bhatia, Alishan Sharafu, CP Rizwaan, Basil Hameed, Matiullah, Fahad Nawaz, Sanchit Sharma
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Indoor Cricket World Cup Dubai 2017
Venue Insportz, Dubai; Admission Free
Day 1 fixtures (Saturday)
Men 1.45pm, Malaysia v Australia (Court 1); Singapore v India (Court 2); UAE v New Zealand (Court 3); South Africa v Sri Lanka (Court 4)
Women Noon, New Zealand v South Africa (Court 3); England v UAE (Court 4); 5.15pm, Australia v UAE (Court 3); England v New Zealand (Court 4)
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
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