Thirty-two years after leaving, Jihad Fakhreddine hardly recognises the village where he grew up.
Forty years ago, I knew all 1,500 people in my Lebanese village. I knew their names, and they knew mine. I knew their homes. I also knew hundreds of people from neighbouring villages and towns. Since I was seven years old, I had worked in my father's grand store, which was also the village's barber shop and post office. Knowledge of names was useful there. The post was delivered three days a week, and on each of those days our shop was flooded with villagers checking to see if they had received any mail (or cash remittances, which sustained many a family) from relatives in West Africa, the Gulf or the Americas. With his sharp memory, my father could look at someone and instantly tell them whether they had received a letter or remittance that day. People never believed him, and often insisted that he recheck the stack, or allow them to check it themselves. When I was 12, my father died and I took over the store; they never believed me either.
Back then, getting a letter was so exciting that it was news in itself; whenever you received one, the entire village knew soon afterwards, even if it contained little more than greetings and kisses from a relative abroad. After all, letters were our only means of communication with our former neighbours. Sometimes elderly, illiterate parents couldn't wait to get home and have someone read them their letters, so either my dad or I would read them aloud on the spot.
Often, grateful customers rewarded me with their stamps, which I collected. In a time when money was tight and hobbies were few, stamp collection was an inexpensive way to entertain myself and learn about other countries, their capitals, their heads of state and their national symbols. I even had stamps for each of the seven emirates, then independent, that now comprise the UAE.
In those days, only people without much education opted to migrate. They were all traders. Their letters were short: a quick description of how things were going at work, then some news about the Lebanese community wherever they were. Reading those letters, I learnt that fellow Lebanese abroad stuck together, bound by a sense of camaraderie in exile that helped them cope with being away. Of course, this made it easier for villagers to leave, knowing they could join a small but strong Lebanese community elsewhere. Whenever someone returned to the village on holiday they would be swamped by well-wishers, who of course wanted to know if the visitor was carrying letters from their loved ones. When the time came, dozens of people would come to see them off - and give them letters to carry back.
In the early Seventies, only a few dozen people from my village were living abroad. That seemed like a lot, but it was nothing compared to what happened when civil war broke out in 1975. Hundreds more left. Eventually so did I, along with most of my generation. Not one of my friends stayed. Throughout the Eighties, even more villagers left, driven out by alternating waves of sectarian expulsions.
I miss home. A Palestinian song that many Arab émigrés listen to begins, "Another day has gone by. Our exile is increased one day. Our return is one day nearer." This is the sort of soul soothing that groups of people in exile come up with. Home is everything, and the physical act of return is always one day closer - whether or not it will ever actually happen.
But even if one physically returns, what does one return to? Being in the homeland doesn't mean feeling at home, and it doesn't mean the end of alienation. This is particularly the case when the notion of home stored in an émigré's memory is not altered for decades, even as that home changes a bit every year.
Now, whenever I talk eagerly about returning to Lebanon, my friends warn me about the severe depression that can result from going home and still feeling homeless. But I have visited my village several times since I first left, and am under no illusions that it will ever be the village I grew up in. Many more people have migrated to cities, or other countries. Several areas consist entirely of shuttered houses that have not been maintained for years.
The people I now know best are mostly village elders, and they are dying. Every time I visit I have to go offer condolences to another family. I barely know any of the younger generation. Walking the roads and alleys, I feel utter strangeness. People don't recognise me, and I don't recognise them. Often the only way I can get people to remember me at all is by introducing myself as the brother of Salim, who has never left the village.
On my last few trips to visit relatives I brought along a palm-size notepad so I could write down and remember the names of the children and grandchildren who were born since my last visit. But recently I have found myself forgetting the names of the very people I am supposed to be visiting. I have embarrassed myself by calling people the wrong names, and conducted entire conversations without referring to the person I am talking to by name. Often I resort to asking someone about the name of his or her eldest son, then calling them abu or um so-and-so.
Recently, I have found many members of my village's young generation on Facebook. I've even reconnected with some friends my age. As my old village vanishes, the socialising that used to take place in my father's store has moved into a virtual world. The place where I grew up exists only as memories and words on our computer screens. Meanwhile, returning to the real village tends to make me uneasy. I don't hand out the mail anymore, and the community has adapted to function without me. Nostalgia has little relevance to actual social dynamics, and my presence feels like an intrusion. Each visit is like starting all over again, almost as an immigrant. And this is nearly as painful as having to count the days to my final return, whenever it may come.
Jihad Fakhreddine is a Dubai-based Regional Research Director for Gallup, the international polling organisation.
Tree of Hell
Starring: Raed Zeno, Hadi Awada, Dr Mohammad Abdalla
Director: Raed Zeno
Rating: 4/5
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
Gertrude Bell's life in focus
A feature film
At one point, two feature films were in the works, but only German director Werner Herzog’s project starring Nicole Kidman would be made. While there were high hopes he would do a worthy job of directing the biopic, when Queen of the Desert arrived in 2015 it was a disappointment. Critics panned the film, in which Herzog largely glossed over Bell’s political work in favour of her ill-fated romances.
A documentary
A project that did do justice to Bell arrived the next year: Sabine Krayenbuhl and Zeva Oelbaum’s Letters from Baghdad: The Extraordinary Life and Times of Gertrude Bell. Drawing on more than 1,000 pieces of archival footage, 1,700 documents and 1,600 letters, the filmmakers painstakingly pieced together a compelling narrative that managed to convey both the depth of Bell’s experience and her tortured love life.
Books, letters and archives
Two biographies have been written about Bell, and both are worth reading: Georgina Howell’s 2006 book Queen of the Desert and Janet Wallach’s 1996 effort Desert Queen. Bell published several books documenting her travels and there are also several volumes of her letters, although they are hard to find in print. Original documents are housed at the Gertrude Bell Archive at the University of Newcastle, which has an online catalogue.
Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
The specs
Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors
Power: 480kW
Torque: 850Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)
On sale: Now
The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
Kill%20
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Company%20Profile
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Bugatti Chiron Super Sport - the specs:
Engine: 8.0-litre quad-turbo W16
Transmission: 7-speed DSG auto
Power: 1,600hp
Torque: 1,600Nm
0-100kph in 2.4seconds
0-200kph in 5.8 seconds
0-300kph in 12.1 seconds
Top speed: 440kph
Price: Dh13,200,000
Bugatti Chiron Pur Sport - the specs:
Engine: 8.0-litre quad-turbo W16
Transmission: 7-speed DSG auto
Power: 1,500hp
Torque: 1,600Nm
0-100kph in 2.3 seconds
0-200kph in 5.5 seconds
0-300kph in 11.8 seconds
Top speed: 350kph
Price: Dh13,600,000
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
Match info
Athletic Bilbao 0
Real Madrid 1 (Ramos 73' pen)
BIG SPENDERS
Premier League clubs spent £230 million (Dh1.15 billion) on January transfers, the second-highest total for the mid-season window, the Sports Business Group at Deloitte said in a report.
FFP EXPLAINED
What is Financial Fair Play?
Introduced in 2011 by Uefa, European football’s governing body, it demands that clubs live within their means. Chiefly, spend within their income and not make substantial losses.
What the rules dictate?
The second phase of its implementation limits losses to €30 million (Dh136m) over three seasons. Extra expenditure is permitted for investment in sustainable areas (youth academies, stadium development, etc). Money provided by owners is not viewed as income. Revenue from “related parties” to those owners is assessed by Uefa's “financial control body” to be sure it is a fair value, or in line with market prices.
What are the penalties?
There are a number of punishments, including fines, a loss of prize money or having to reduce squad size for European competition – as happened to PSG in 2014. There is even the threat of a competition ban, which could in theory lead to PSG’s suspension from the Uefa Champions League.
The specs
Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
Power: 620hp from 5,750-7,500rpm
Torque: 760Nm from 3,000-5,750rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed dual-clutch auto
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh1.05 million ($286,000)
The specs
Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
FA%20Cup%20semi-final%20draw
%3Cp%3ECoventry%20City%20v%20Manchester%20United%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EManchester%20City%20v%20Chelsea%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20Games%20to%20be%20played%20at%20Wembley%20Stadium%20on%20weekend%20of%20April%2020%2F21.%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
How to help
Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200
If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.
When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.
How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
The specs
Engine: 77.4kW all-wheel-drive dual motor
Power: 320bhp
Torque: 605Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh219,000
On sale: Now
Business Insights
- Canada and Mexico are significant energy suppliers to the US, providing the majority of oil and natural gas imports
- The introduction of tariffs could hinder the US's clean energy initiatives by raising input costs for materials like nickel
- US domestic suppliers might benefit from higher prices, but overall oil consumption is expected to decrease due to elevated costs
RESULTS
6pm: Mazrat Al Ruwayah – Group 2 (PA) $40,000 (Dirt) 1,600m
Winner: AF Alajaj, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer)
6.35pm: Race of Future – Handicap (TB) $80,000 (Turf) 2,410m
Winner: Global Storm, William Buick, Charlie Appleby
7.10pm: UAE 2000 Guineas – Group 3 (TB) $150,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Azure Coast, Antonio Fresu, Pavel Vashchenko
7.45pm: Business Bay Challenge – Listed (TB) $100,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Storm Damage, Patrick Cosgrave, Saeed bin Suroor
20.20pm: Curlin Stakes – Listed (TB) $100,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Appreciated, Fernando Jara, Doug O’Neill
8.55pm: Singspiel Stakes – Group 2 (TB) $180,000 (T) 1,800m
Winner: Lord Glitters, Daniel Tudhope, David O'Meara
9.30pm: Al Shindagha Sprint – Group 3 (TB) $150,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Meraas, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi
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If you go
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Seattle from Dh5,555 return, including taxes.
The car
Hertz offers compact car rental from about $300 (Dh1,100) per week, including taxes. Emirates Skywards members can earn points on their car hire through Hertz.
The national park
Entry to Mount Rainier National Park costs $30 for one vehicle and passengers for up to seven days. Accommodation can be booked through mtrainierguestservices.com. Prices vary according to season. Rooms at the Holiday Inn Yakima cost from $125 per night, excluding breakfast.
Business Insights
- As per the document, there are six filing options, including choosing to report on a realisation basis and transitional rules for pre-tax period gains or losses.
- SMEs with revenue below Dh3 million per annum can opt for transitional relief until 2026, treating them as having no taxable income.
- Larger entities have specific provisions for asset and liability movements, business restructuring, and handling foreign permanent establishments.
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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INFO
Nayanthara: Beyond The Fairy Tale
Starring: Nayanthara, Vignesh Shivan, Radhika Sarathkumar, Nagarjuna Akkineni
Director: Amith Krishnan
Rating: 3.5/5
The Uefa Awards winners
Uefa Men's Player of the Year: Virgil van Dijk (Liverpool)
Uefa Women's Player of the Year: Lucy Bronze (Lyon)
Best players of the 2018/19 Uefa Champions League
Goalkeeper: Alisson (Liverpool)
Defender: Virgil van Dijk (Liverpool)
Midfielder: Frenkie de Jong (Ajax)
Forward: Lionel Messi (Barcelona)
Uefa President's Award: Eric Cantona
Abu Dhabi GP starting grid
1 Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes)
2 Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes)
3 Sebastian Vettel (Ferrari)
4 Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari)
5 Daniel Ricciardo (Red Bull)
6 Max Verstappen (Red Bull)
7 Romain Grosjean (Haas)
8 Charles Leclerc (Sauber)
9 Esteban Ocon (Force India)
10 Nico Hulkenberg (Renault)
11 Carlos Sainz (Renault)
12 Marcus Ericsson (Sauber)
13 Kevin Magnussen (Haas)
14 Sergio Perez (Force India)
15 Fernando Alonso (McLaren)
16 Brendon Hartley (Toro Rosso)
17 Pierre Gasly (Toro Rosso)
18 Stoffe Vandoorne (McLaren)
19 Sergey Sirotkin (Williams)
20 Lance Stroll (Williams)
Heather, the Totality
Matthew Weiner,
Canongate
Jawab Iteiqal
Director: Mohamed Sammy
Starring: Mohamed Ramadan, Ayad Nasaar, Mohamed Adel and Sabry Fawaz
2 stars