Designer does it her way for Gulf's women

No one can deny that there is a lot of interest in fashion in this region. Dubai boasts a huge number of designer shops to serve its style-conscious residents. But with the exception of a few extremely talented designers, buyers and stylists, most of the region's fashion crowd have some way to go before making the transition from your average fashion fan to a true connoisseur.

Khaleda Rajab, a Bahraini national, is one of the few who have managed it. Her three lines, Khaleda Rajab Haute Couture, Khaleda Rajab Couture and KR Couture have become hugely sought after, even though she set up her business only a year ago. Rajab, 25, grew up in Bahrain before moving to the US to study business at Suffolk University in Boston. "The whole time I was in Bahrain I wanted to study fashion. I started designing from a young age, but took it more seriously when I went into manufacturing last year. While in America I saw variations in trends. Fashion differs in every state. You can wear anything there," she says.

This fashion culture shock brought out Rajab's innate sense of style, which often stands out when she's in her hometown. "My style is not at all safe. I get stared at a lot when I'm walking in the mall." However, when it comes to her collection, Rajab's business brain takes over, and she ensures that a variety of simple, glamorous and distinctive pieces are available to cater to her broad clientele. "I make a few garments that are fierce and edgy, but most of them just have a small touch of my own style."

Rajab likes to keep an element of "bling" in her haute couture line and appeal to her older buyers. "I noticed that an Arab woman likes to stand out in the crowd. She likes to be the centre of attention so I did a collection based on glitz and glamour when I started out. "I'm targeting both the new and older generations and adapt each piece accordingly. I would recommend shawls for older ladies and higher hems for younger ones."

Each line differs in the quality of fabric and the amount of craftsmanship. "For the haute couture line I get clients coming in, there's a lot of hand embroidery and they're all one of a kind; it's a long procedure. Couture still has a lot of detailing but they're made in a bigger quantity in three to five sizes each, and KR Couture is made with lower-quality fabrics so they're priced lower and produced more."

Rajab would like to see more risk-taking in Bahrain. "The fashion scene is a little safe. It's not gutsy enough but that's not to say they're not interested in fashion. The new generation is trendier but I want to see more trends passing around. Now I have started to see the younger girls in my boutique picking up the edgier pieces and trying them on." Her familiarity with the country and the fashion needs of its residents convinced Rajab that she wanted to start her business there. However, it has not always been easy. "There were only a few people who were really into fashion. To get them to acknowledge me was difficult."

But interest in her collections picked up rapidly. "When I came back from America and decided to make a career out of this, I started out just designing dresses for friends and family at wedding parties. Word got out so I had to hire a tailor full time. Because I didn't study fashion it was difficult at first but as I sat with the tailor I learnt a lot about textiles and beading." What started off as a small home-spun business grew into a two-storey boutique, which opened in January this year, "I took a loan from my dad. I had to lay down a business plan before I got the necessary funding."

After getting the go-ahead, Rajab set off to explore garment factories in the east: "I spent a few months travelling back and forth, and began printing my own textiles and picking out the beads for each piece. Having a hundred people working on one garment is better than one tailor." Rajab won't settle until her collection is complete, "I'm heading off to a few factories in Turkey to expand into footwear and accessories."

She also wants to branch out in other Gulf states. "A lot of my clients are in the UAE, Qatar, Saudi and Kuwait so I'm taking a few pieces to show boutiques in those countries. I'm really ready now."