The 2012 Spring/Summer collection of the Dubai-based fashion designer Rabia Z is a fitting tribute to the UAE's 40th anniversary.
Called "Traditions. Today. Tomorrow. Chapter 1: Arabia - The Mukhawara Collection", the creations pay homage to the long, traditional dress frequently worn by Emirati and GCC women.
"I wanted to do something to revive it [the mukhawara] and I was inspired by the embroidery that was often very intricate and used to be done by hand," says Rabia Zargarpur. "Although, I didn't use any embroidery in my collection, I used instead the patterns as prints in the same place around the neck, the arms, the wrists."
Using the traditional embroidered motifs of flowers and geometric shapes, Zargarpur deployed screen-printing techniques to trim her mukhawara-inspired kaftan jumpsuits, draped tops and pants - complete with matching shaylas.
"I remember wearing mukhawaras as a child," she says. "It's generally something worn at home for Eid and I think children love them because the embroidery is so elaborate and they don't often get to wear such colour with glitter and sparkles.
"Back then there was a lot of gold thread used and the crystals were overdone - over time they have become much prettier."
Reminiscent of traditional Emirati couture and fashioned into a modern ready-to-wear range, Zargarpur used a bold palette of indigo blue, parrot green, citrine and deep ruby fuchsia for her latest collection. Much like her childhood mukhawara, she's designed some of the line in silk, while also incorporating cotton, stretch linen and hints of denim.
Having made her prêt-a-porter debut on the UAE fashion scene in 2007, the Emirati-Afghani designer fast made a name for herself creating "modern and modest" clothing for women. Having lived and studied in the US, showcasing her latest range in New York's West Village last November 16 took the story full circle.
"People, especially in New York, where they didn't know what a mukhawara was, really loved it!" she says. "When they talk about Emirati women, it's always 'Wow, they are such fashionistas' because they are well known for their sense of style and their amazing accessories - the beautiful bags, the jewellery, the shoes.
"Having lived away for more than half my life and then coming back [to the UAE], I, of course saw a huge change in the fashion. Emirati ladies are more boldly expressing their style than ever before - they are much more on-trend," she says. "Girls are fashion conscious from a much younger age, too - so different from the past, where for me it was 'Wow, a mukhawara!' and it was much more of a tailor culture."
With hopes of her new collection finding favour with young fashion-conscious Emiratis and expatriates, Zargarpur also has a sentimental reason for wanting the line to do well.
"My grandmother always wore them, until she passed away," recalls the designer. "She would always wear 'mukhawaras for the house', with very light embroidery and without bright, bold colours and crystals. I know there are still older women who wear that today."
Zargarpur says her younger 23-year-old sister likes wearing mukhawaras. "When it comes to Eid, she will still go out and make a couple of mukhawaras for herself. In non-traditional hot pink with polka dots, for example, but still with the embroidery and crystals."
Rabia Z, as she's known in the industry, has full confidence of the mukhawara's place in the UAE's fashionable future, similar to its important contribution to the style archives of the past.
Its resurgence into mainstream and haute fashion was confirmed upon a recent trip to see some exclusive clients in the capital.
"I started seeing them [mukhawaras] again when I went to visit the Royal Family at the palace in Abu Dhabi." she says. "I saw very beautiful, simpler versions being worn at home and it really inspired me how the tradition was being kept."
rduane@thenational.ae
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COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.
When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.
How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
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Nayanthara: Beyond The Fairy Tale
Starring: Nayanthara, Vignesh Shivan, Radhika Sarathkumar, Nagarjuna Akkineni
Director: Amith Krishnan
Rating: 3.5/5
Eyasses squad
Charlie Preston (captain) – goal shooter/ goalkeeper (Dubai College)
Arushi Holt (vice-captain) – wing defence / centre (Jumeriah English Speaking School)
Olivia Petricola (vice-captain) – centre / wing attack (Dubai English Speaking College)
Isabel Affley – goalkeeper / goal defence (Dubai English Speaking College)
Jemma Eley – goal attack / wing attack (Dubai College)
Alana Farrell-Morton – centre / wing / defence / wing attack (Nord Anglia International School)
Molly Fuller – goal attack / wing attack (Dubai College)
Caitlin Gowdy – goal defence / wing defence (Dubai English Speaking College)
Noorulain Hussain – goal defence / wing defence (Dubai College)
Zahra Hussain-Gillani – goal defence / goalkeeper (British School Al Khubairat)
Claire Janssen – goal shooter / goal attack (Jumeriah English Speaking School)
Eliza Petricola – wing attack / centre (Dubai English Speaking College)
Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
ICC T20 Team of 2021
Jos Buttler, Mohammad Rizwan, Babar Azam, Aiden Markram, Mitchell Marsh, David Miller, Tabraiz Shamsi, Josh Hazlewood, Wanindu Hasaranga, Mustafizur Rahman, Shaheen Afridi
