Christopher Kane's autumn/winter 2010 collection featured black leather and lace embroidered with wild flowers, a severe departure from the fluid checks and pleats of his spring range.
Christopher Kane's autumn/winter 2010 collection featured black leather and lace embroidered with wild flowers, a severe departure from the fluid checks and pleats of his spring range.

Erdem and Kane dress the part



Erdem Moralioglu's show at Senate House, one of London University's halls, allowed him to shed his "rising British star" status and finally join the ranks of global fashion superstars. Fashionistas from the world's most important magazines turned out in force to support the Canadian-born designer, openly weeping at the finale when models in fluttering, ankle-length gowns swept past each other on a marble staircase.

"The collection had a lot to do with the Great North," said the designer, who originally hails from Montreal, as he explained his misty colour palette was inspired by the sort of weird, architectural skylines found in the Arctic. "My sister works for a natural history programme and keeps sending me wild images," Moralioglu said backstage. Outerwear, such as the cape that opened the show, and knitwear were added to the mix for the new collection but it was Moralioglu's otherworldly dresses, especially one featuring embroidered organza ribbon with panniers jutting out from the model's hips, that truly stood out.

"There's always been a tradition of evening wear in London but Erdem, along with Christopher Kane and Richard Nicoll, are the new generation of designers who are not only upholding the deep-rooted traditions of craft, but are equally about creativity and quality," said American Vogue's Mark Holgate. "They create evening dresses for women who don't get dressed up." Earlier, Kane showed a standout collection featuring black leather and lace embroidered with wild flowers, which is bound to impact on trends for the autumn/winter 2010 season.

"Technologically it was a huge challenge to match all the fabrics together," said Tammy Kane, the designer's sister and business partner. "We had an instinct to do leather. Then halfway through designing the collection, Christopher saw an Elvis Presley documentary so it suddenly became all about the young Priscilla (Presley)." As well as hourglass shifts made from the finest calfskin, there were tailored wool skirt suits made by Norton & Sons, the famous tailors on London's Savile Row, and handmade kilts from the Isle of Lewis in Scotland.

All the embroidery was done by hand in India. The Kanes will also be showing their collection during Mumbai Fashion Week in March. Accessories included lace-up, high-heeled ankle boots inspired by Scottish dancing shoes (the 24-year-old designer, who studied at Central St Martins, hails from Scotland). The black leather was a severe departure from the fluid checks and pleats of his current spring range, and sends fashion off on a new path.

"I always want to do something different each season," he said. "Otherwise I get bored. But I've got a really good feeling about this collection."

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Iran's dirty tricks to dodge sanctions

There’s increased scrutiny on the tricks being used to keep commodities flowing to and from blacklisted countries. Here’s a description of how some work.

1 Going Dark

A common method to transport Iranian oil with stealth is to turn off the Automatic Identification System, an electronic device that pinpoints a ship’s location. Known as going dark, a vessel flicks the switch before berthing and typically reappears days later, masking the location of its load or discharge port.

2. Ship-to-Ship Transfers

A first vessel will take its clandestine cargo away from the country in question before transferring it to a waiting ship, all of this happening out of sight. The vessels will then sail in different directions. For about a third of Iranian exports, more than one tanker typically handles a load before it’s delivered to its final destination, analysts say.

3. Fake Destinations

Signaling the wrong destination to load or unload is another technique. Ships that intend to take cargo from Iran may indicate their loading ports in sanction-free places like Iraq. Ships can keep changing their destinations and end up not berthing at any of them.

4. Rebranded Barrels

Iranian barrels can also be rebranded as oil from a nation free from sanctions such as Iraq. The countries share fields along their border and the crude has similar characteristics. Oil from these deposits can be trucked out to another port and documents forged to hide Iran as the origin.

* Bloomberg

Business Insights
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Started: 2020
 
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Based: Dubai, UAE
 
Sector: Entertainment 
 
Number of staff: 210 
 
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W. W. Norton & Company

Business Insights
  • As per the document, there are six filing options, including choosing to report on a realisation basis and transitional rules for pre-tax period gains or losses. 
  • SMEs with revenue below Dh3 million per annum can opt for transitional relief until 2026, treating them as having no taxable income. 
  • Larger entities have specific provisions for asset and liability movements, business restructuring, and handling foreign permanent establishments.
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Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
Rating: 4/5
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?

1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull

2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight

3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge

4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own

5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
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