Fashion: the decade in retrospect



The end of the last decade was wild. We partied because it really was 1999, we sincerely believed the world's technology would crash thanks to Y2K and we looked forward to being happier, wiser and more enlightened during the 21st century. Ten years on, in less apocalyptic mood, most of the world's endeavours haven't quite worked out like that, and as we reflect on its events, this decade's turn will, for many, be marked sotto voce.

Fashion, though, lives entirely in the moment. Ask a fashionista to look back at the previous decade and ahead to the forecasted trends and she will be certain that the exact combination of shoulder-width, skirt-length and heel-height that she is wearing right now represents the Platonic ideal of style. In fact, she can't think what she was doing all those months ago when she emulated Gwyneth Paltrow's platform booties with bare legs. She knows better now, of course and there's no way she'll be buying those frumpy kitten heels: those are for fashion victims.

Delusional? Perhaps, but excellent news for fashion anthropologists who look to costume to reflect wider trends in society. So what did the last decade's clothing trends tell us about the world? Oh so much. Thanks to fast fashion, retail has become responsive to every mood and necessity, from dealing with an unseasonably warm winter (climate change, anyone?) to anti-war sentiment (keffiyehs on student campuses and in H&M stores the world over).

From the heights of conspicuous consumption to the depths of recessionista austerity, in the developed world fashion in the Noughties has consistently held up a mirror to society's movements. Let's take Boho as an example. In its many incarnations, boho can be seen as the prevailing style of the Noughties. When it first started to filter through, back in 2000, it was as a reaction to the futuristic fabrics, linear cuts, icy colours and glittering ostentation of millennial fashion, the apotheosis of Nineties minimalism. This was the peak of Hussein Chalayan's conceptual clothing engineering, and spiritual puritanism was vying with a slightly reckless search for excess, courtesy Versace. But the catwalks of Dolce & Gabbana saw long, hippyish lines and bright colours, while the king of Boho, Matthew Williamson, was at the height of his powers.

Fashion has a symbiotic relationship with music and art, and these movements went hand in hand with trends in those areas: the synthetic sounds of Britney Spears, Steps and Robbie Williams slowly being superseded by the lo-fi likes of Strokes and the Dandy Warhols, and the marketing-heavy contemporary art scene being challenged by graffiti artists such as Banksy and Blek Le Rat. Socially, the (false, as it turns out) promise of the Y2K millennial meltdown had kicked off a certain back-to-basics nostalgia to counter the optimistic futurism of 1999. Survivalists in the US took to the hills, armed with guns, ready to defend their belongings against the expected looters, while even in the suburbs of the West people stocked up on water, tinned food and petrol. Sure everyone felt a bit foolish the next day, when the technological infrastructure remained intact, but it had its effect: people began to cocoon, to seek comfort and creative fulfilment in their lives - and, of course, in their clothes.

All of this grew together over the next few years into an explosion of Bohemian style that manifested itself in one iconic (and subsequently derided) figure: Sienna Miller. The paparazzi was on to the actress simply because she was the then girlfriend of the actor Jude Law. But her big, floppy hats, droopy dresses under shearling gilets, Ugg or secondhand cowboy boots and mismatched jewellery caught the attention of fashion editors and she began to be photographed more than Law himself.

The look of Miller and her friends - the Primrose Hill set of young British actors, models and publicists such as Kate Moss and Meg Mathews - was reflected by the Rachel Zoe crowd in LA and their counterparts around the world (think giant sunglasses, chiffon tunics and flowing curls) and was quickly put into production by the fast-fashion likes of Topshop, H&M and New Look, making Boho the defining look of the high street.

Consequently, it was dropped like a hot coal by the fickle fashion set after just a couple of seasons, but its influence has continued to reverberate through the decade, and not just because the public continued to hold onto its easy-to-wear style in defiance of the edicts of Vogue. It has been reinvented again and again and has now, in the form of the music-festival uniform of skinny jeans or tiny shorts, wellies and straw trilbies, transformed into more of a state of mind than a style. It is alternative, shambolic, fun, young, wacky and, most of all, eclectic. It is, to apply one of the decade's favourite internet memes, pirate rather than ninja.

That free-spirited style was of the driving factors for the other huge obsession of the decade: vintage fashion. Previously the reserve of students scouring charity shops for cheap togs and fashion historians collecting fine textiles, vintage was suddenly the watchword for all right-thinking fashionistas, whether their style was boho, retro, classic or super-chic. Actresses and designers interviewed in magazines professed their longstanding love of flea markets and Didier Ludot, simultaneously emphasising both their high-fashion credentials and their individualistic, creative outlooks. John Galliano was regularly spotted with his entourage in Camden market, fashion museums and archives were rifled for inspiration and, for the rest of us, those cowboy boots only worked if they were 20-year-old handmade eelskin JB Hill ones sourced from Texas.

Of course, vintage fashion was not new - think the thrift-store grunge of the previous decade for example - but this time it was different: vintage, not secondhand. The popularity of Dita Von Teese and the burlesque movement reminded us of the wonderful glamour and quality of curvy frocks and feminine accessories from the Forties and Fifties. When actresses such as Renée Zellweger, Reese Witherspoon and Julia Roberts took to wearing va-va-voom vintage pieces by Dior, Dessés or Valentino to film premieres, it prompted another defining feature of the Noughties: red-carpet fabulosity.

Arguably Jennifer Lopez laid the ground for this with the incredible jungle-print Versace dress she wore to the Grammys in 2000, while Halle Berry's burgundy Elie Saab number, worn to accept her Oscar for Monster's Ball, captured the public imagination more than any of the boring classic black sheaths so popular in the safe Nineties. In fact, Saab and his younger compatriot Zuhair Murad would become two of the the top choices for those looking to cut a dash on the the red carpet, with the voluptuous likes of Beyoncé making the most of their supreme cutting skills.

Year by year over the last decade, the red carpets have played host to more and more sparkle, with Drew Barrymore and Anne Hathaway emerging as two of the most consistently interesting and stylish dressers. The other big story with the red carpets, of course, has been the jewellery: the return of bling, with ever-increasing piles of ice being loaned to actresses for premieres dominating the urban music scene of the Noughties.

With bling, diamonds have become the favoured indicator of extreme wealth, being applied to every spare body space, from ears and teeth to shoes. Taste simply does not come into it. The "get rich or die tryin'" mantra of the New York rapper 50 Cent could be the battle cry for the brand-mania that took over so much of the retail scene in the Noughties. With hindsight from the shell-shocked gloom of a recession, we can be certain this was not purely about fashion: the Hermès-upholstered helicoptors and supercars were the boys' toys. Logomania and the frenetic name-checking of brands - Jimmy Choo, Vuitton, Dior, Burberry - boosted an immense counterfeiting industry catering to the hordes of high-street shoppers wanting to be seen with exclusive monogram-style bags the likes of which only 40 million other people own. More to the point, it gave rise to a mountain of debt as we put our lives in hock for a Dh70,000 Balenciaga frock because we felt, to paraphrase Jennifer Aniston, that we were worth it.

Indeed, over the last few seasons the huge shoulders and bandage dresses of the original conspicuous consumption have made a comeback, but it seems that this incipient trend may become a victim of the recession too: for 2010 things are much gentler and lighter. Such was the madness of women's fashion. Men, as ever, fared better. Save for the occasional dip into the waters of faddishness - pink polo shirts, mohawks and mullets, bow ties, winklepicker shoes - men's fashion could be divided into four basic styles: retro tailoring, urban sportswear, indie-rocker grungy and nerd chic. The slick and the stylish adopted the Savile Row-style suit, and rediscovered a fascination with wool gauge, shoe shine and lapel width. The hip hop and R&B crowd went for boxfresh sneakers, engineered jeans and crisp white jackets or faux-, à la Justin Timberlake and Kanye West. Skinny black jeans and vintage band T-shirts were the uniform for fans of music ranging all the way from the Strokes to Busted. And for those who aspired to the geek-chic look of Seth Cohen from The O.C., a T-shirt with a facetious logo and a pair of heavy-rimmed glasses were crucial ingredients.

In fact, if you had one of the following items in any combination, you could be dubbed a stylish Noughties man: Vans, Converse, rare Nikes or Adidas Stan Smiths, crispy or skinny jeans, Japanese limited-edition tee, Panama, fedora, flat or trilby hat, Richard James jacket or blazer, Ray-Bans. And, as is inevitably the case in the slower-moving arena of menswear, all of these pieces will take you very comfortably into the next decade.

Some of those who were pulled into the shopping vortex during the good times may be old enough to remember the last time the luxury bubble burst, almost exactly 20 years ago. The wild excesses of the Eighties (remember the yuppies and Gordon Gecko?) were smashed by a world recession and the post-party clean-up made room for minimalism, disaffected grungy youths and hedonistic teens. As the clock strikes 2010 and the social pendulum starts to swing back, it takes no great leap of imagination to predict fashion's next direction.

The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

A timeline of the Historical Dictionary of the Arabic Language
  • 2018: Formal work begins
  • November 2021: First 17 volumes launched 
  • November 2022: Additional 19 volumes released
  • October 2023: Another 31 volumes released
  • November 2024: All 127 volumes completed
The specs

  Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now

Farasan Boat: 128km Away from Anchorage

Director: Mowaffaq Alobaid 

Stars: Abdulaziz Almadhi, Mohammed Al Akkasi, Ali Al Suhaibani

Rating: 4/5

The major Hashd factions linked to Iran:

Badr Organisation: Seen as the most militarily capable faction in the Hashd. Iraqi Shiite exiles opposed to Saddam Hussein set up the group in Tehran in the early 1980s as the Badr Corps under the supervision of the Iran Revolutionary Guards Corps (IRGC). The militia exalts Iran’s Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei but intermittently cooperated with the US military.

Saraya Al Salam (Peace Brigade): Comprised of former members of the officially defunct Mahdi Army, a militia that was commanded by Iraqi cleric Moqtada Al Sadr and fought US and Iraqi government and other forces between 2004 and 2008. As part of a political overhaul aimed as casting Mr Al Sadr as a more nationalist and less sectarian figure, the cleric formed Saraya Al Salam in 2014. The group’s relations with Iran has been volatile.

Kataeb Hezbollah: The group, which is fighting on behalf of the Bashar Al Assad government in Syria, traces its origins to attacks on US forces in Iraq in 2004 and adopts a tough stance against Washington, calling the United States “the enemy of humanity”.

Asaeb Ahl Al Haq: An offshoot of the Mahdi Army active in Syria. Asaeb Ahl Al Haq’s leader Qais al Khazali was a student of Mr Al Moqtada’s late father Mohammed Sadeq Al Sadr, a prominent Shiite cleric who was killed during Saddam Hussein’s rule.

Harakat Hezbollah Al Nujaba: Formed in 2013 to fight alongside Mr Al Assad’s loyalists in Syria before joining the Hashd. The group is seen as among the most ideological and sectarian-driven Hashd militias in Syria and is the major recruiter of foreign fighters to Syria.

Saraya Al Khorasani:  The ICRG formed Saraya Al Khorasani in the mid-1990s and the group is seen as the most ideologically attached to Iran among Tehran’s satellites in Iraq.

(Source: The Wilson Centre, the International Centre for the Study of Radicalisation)

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Ticket prices
  • Golden circle - Dh995
  • Floor Standing - Dh495
  • Lower Bowl Platinum - Dh95
  • Lower Bowl premium - Dh795
  • Lower Bowl Plus - Dh695
  • Lower Bowl Standard- Dh595
  • Upper Bowl Premium - Dh395
  • Upper Bowl standard - Dh295
Mane points for safe home colouring
  • Natural and grey hair takes colour differently than chemically treated hair
  • Taking hair from a dark to a light colour should involve a slow transition through warmer stages of colour
  • When choosing a colour (especially a lighter tone), allow for a natural lift of warmth
  • Most modern hair colours are technique-based, in that they require a confident hand and taught skills
  • If you decide to be brave and go for it, seek professional advice and use a semi-permanent colour
IF YOU GO

The flights

FlyDubai flies direct from Dubai to Skopje in five hours from Dh1,314 return including taxes. Hourly buses from Skopje to Ohrid take three hours.

The tours

English-speaking guided tours of Ohrid town and the surrounding area are organised by Cultura 365; these cost €90 (Dh386) for a one-day trip including driver and guide and €100 a day (Dh429) for two people. 

The hotels

Villa St Sofija in the old town of Ohrid, twin room from $54 (Dh198) a night.

St Naum Monastery, on the lake 30km south of Ohrid town, has updated its pilgrims' quarters into a modern 3-star hotel, with rooms overlooking the monastery courtyard and lake. Double room from $60 (Dh 220) a night.

 

Zimbabwe v UAE, ODI series

All matches at the Harare Sports Club

  • 1st ODI, Wednesday, April 10
  • 2nd ODI, Friday, April 12
  • 3rd ODI, Sunday, April 14
  • 4th ODI, Sunday, April 16

Squads:

  • UAE: Mohammed Naveed (captain), Rohan Mustafa, Ashfaq Ahmed, Shaiman Anwar, Mohammed Usman, CP Rizwan, Chirag Suri, Mohammed Boota, Ghulam Shabber, Sultan Ahmed, Imran Haider, Amir Hayat, Zahoor Khan, Qadeer Ahmed
  • Zimbabwe: Peter Moor (captain), Solomon Mire, Brian Chari, Regis Chakabva, Sean Williams, Timycen Maruma, Sikandar Raza, Donald Tiripano, Kyle Jarvis, Tendai Chatara, Chris Mpofu, Craig Ervine, Brandon Mavuta, Ainsley Ndlovu, Tony Munyonga, Elton Chigumbura
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Honeymoonish
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
THE SPECS

Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder

Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)

Power: 141bhp 

Torque: 250Nm 

Price: Dh64,500

On sale: Now

PROFILE BOX

Company name: Overwrite.ai

Founder: Ayman Alashkar

Started: Established in 2020

Based: Dubai International Financial Centre, Dubai

Sector: PropTech

Initial investment: Self-funded by founder

Funding stage: Seed funding, in talks with angel investors

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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Electric scooters: some rules to remember
  • Riders must be 14-years-old or over
  • Wear a protective helmet
  • Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
  • Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
  • Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
  • Do not drive outside designated lanes
WHAT FANS WILL LOVE ABOUT RUSSIA

FANS WILL LOVE
Uber is ridiculously cheap and, as Diego Saez discovered, mush safer. A 45-minute taxi from Pulova airport to Saint Petersburg’s Nevsky Prospect can cost as little as 500 roubles (Dh30).

FANS WILL LOATHE
Uber policy in Russia is that they can start the fare as soon as they arrive at the pick-up point — and oftentimes they start it even before arriving, or worse never arrive yet charge you anyway.

FANS WILL LOVE
It’s amazing how active Russians are on social media and your accounts will surge should you post while in the country. Throw in a few Cyrillic hashtags and watch your account numbers rocket.

FANS WILL LOATHE
With cold soups, bland dumplings and dried fish, Russian cuisine is not to everybody’s tastebuds.  Fortunately, there are plenty Georgian restaurants to choose from, which are both excellent and economical.

FANS WILL LOVE
The World Cup will take place during St Petersburg's White Nights Festival, which means perpetual daylight in a city that genuinely never sleeps. (Think toddlers walking the streets with their grandmothers at 4am.)

FANS WILL LOATHE
The walk from Krestovsky Ostrov metro station to Saint Petersburg Arena on a rainy day makes you wonder why some of the $1.7 billion was not spent on a weather-protected walkway.

Brief scores:

Toss: India, opted to field

Australia 158-4 (17 ov)

Maxwell 46, Lynn 37; Kuldeep 2-24

India 169-7 (17 ov)

Dhawan 76, Karthik 30; Zampa 2-22

Result: Australia won by 4 runs by D/L method

Brief scoreline:

Toss: South Africa, elected to bowl first

England (311-8): Stokes 89, Morgan 57, Roy 54, Root 51; Ngidi 3-66

South Africa (207): De Kock 68, Van der Dussen 50; Archer 3-27, Stokes 2-12

THE SPECS

Engine: 6.0-litre, twin-turbocharged W12

Transmission: eight-speed automatic

Power: 626bhp

Torque: 900Nm

Price: Dh1,050,000

On sale: now

UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Business Insights
  • As per the document, there are six filing options, including choosing to report on a realisation basis and transitional rules for pre-tax period gains or losses. 
  • SMEs with revenue below Dh3 million per annum can opt for transitional relief until 2026, treating them as having no taxable income. 
  • Larger entities have specific provisions for asset and liability movements, business restructuring, and handling foreign permanent establishments.
Switching%20sides
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Our legal consultants

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

Genesis G80 2020 5.0-litre Royal Specs

Engine: 5-litre V8

Gearbox: eight-speed automatic

Power: 420hp

Torque: 505Nm

Fuel economy, combined: 12.4L/100km

Price: Dh260,500

How to get exposure to gold

Although you can buy gold easily on the Dubai markets, the problem with buying physical bars, coins or jewellery is that you then have storage, security and insurance issues.

A far easier option is to invest in a low-cost exchange traded fund (ETF) that invests in the precious metal instead, for example, ETFS Physical Gold (PHAU) and iShares Physical Gold (SGLN) both track physical gold. The VanEck Vectors Gold Miners ETF invests directly in mining companies.

Alternatively, BlackRock Gold & General seeks to achieve long-term capital growth primarily through an actively managed portfolio of gold mining, commodity and precious-metal related shares. Its largest portfolio holdings include gold miners Newcrest Mining, Barrick Gold Corp, Agnico Eagle Mines and the NewMont Goldcorp.

Brave investors could take on the added risk of buying individual gold mining stocks, many of which have performed wonderfully well lately.

London-listed Centamin is up more than 70 per cent in just three months, although in a sign of its volatility, it is down 5 per cent on two years ago. Trans-Siberian Gold, listed on London's alternative investment market (AIM) for small stocks, has seen its share price almost quadruple from 34p to 124p over the same period, but do not assume this kind of runaway growth can continue for long

However, buying individual equities like these is highly risky, as their share prices can crash just as quickly, which isn't what what you want from a supposedly safe haven.

MATCH INFO

Euro 2020 qualifier

Ukraine 2 (Yaremchuk 06', Yarmolenko 27')

Portugal 1 (Ronaldo 72' pen)

The more serious side of specialty coffee

While the taste of beans and freshness of roast is paramount to the specialty coffee scene, so is sustainability and workers’ rights.

The bulk of genuine specialty coffee companies aim to improve on these elements in every stage of production via direct relationships with farmers. For instance, Mokha 1450 on Al Wasl Road strives to work predominantly with women-owned and -operated coffee organisations, including female farmers in the Sabree mountains of Yemen.

Because, as the boutique’s owner, Garfield Kerr, points out: “women represent over 90 per cent of the coffee value chain, but are woefully underrepresented in less than 10 per cent of ownership and management throughout the global coffee industry.”

One of the UAE’s largest suppliers of green (meaning not-yet-roasted) beans, Raw Coffee, is a founding member of the Partnership of Gender Equity, which aims to empower female coffee farmers and harvesters.

Also, globally, many companies have found the perfect way to recycle old coffee grounds: they create the perfect fertile soil in which to grow mushrooms. 

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
Generational responses to the pandemic

Devesh Mamtani from Century Financial believes the cash-hoarding tendency of each generation is influenced by what stage of the employment cycle they are in. He offers the following insights:

Baby boomers (those born before 1964): Owing to market uncertainty and the need to survive amid competition, many in this generation are looking for options to hoard more cash and increase their overall savings/investments towards risk-free assets.

Generation X (born between 1965 and 1980): Gen X is currently in its prime working years. With their personal and family finances taking a hit, Generation X is looking at multiple options, including taking out short-term loan facilities with competitive interest rates instead of dipping into their savings account.

Millennials (born between 1981 and 1996): This market situation is giving them a valuable lesson about investing early. Many millennials who had previously not saved or invested are looking to start doing so now.

If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.

When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.

How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.

Titan Sports Academy:

Programmes: Judo, wrestling, kick-boxing, muay thai, taekwondo and various summer camps

Location: Inside Abu Dhabi City Golf Club, Al Mushrif, Abu Dhabi, UAE

Telephone:  971 50 220 0326

 

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Dates for the diary

To mark Bodytree’s 10th anniversary, the coming season will be filled with celebratory activities:

  • September 21 Anyone interested in becoming a certified yoga instructor can sign up for a 250-hour course in Yoga Teacher Training with Jacquelene Sadek. It begins on September 21 and will take place over the course of six weekends.
  • October 18 to 21 International yoga instructor, Yogi Nora, will be visiting Bodytree and offering classes.
  • October 26 to November 4 International pilates instructor Courtney Miller will be on hand at the studio, offering classes.
  • November 9 Bodytree is hosting a party to celebrate turning 10, and everyone is invited. Expect a day full of free classes on the grounds of the studio.
  • December 11 Yogeswari, an advanced certified Jivamukti teacher, will be visiting the studio.
  • February 2, 2018 Bodytree will host its 4th annual yoga market.