La Voile Rouge review: Saint-Tropez celebrity haunt relaunches in Dubai

For more than 30 years, La Voile Rouge was part of the furniture on Saint-Tropez’s sunshine coast . The beach club’s guestbook read like a who’s who of Hollywood; names such as Sylvester Stallone, Bruce Willis and Robert De Niro joined music royalty including the Spice Girls, Bono and Elton John. Among them all was an endless rotation of twentysomethings with chiselled abs, bronze skin and an appetite to party until the sun came up. That was until the end of the 1990s, when things unravelled at remarkable speed. Locals’ concerns about the over-commercialisation of the beach, as well as the pollution left behind by those visiting the endless bars and restaurants along it, bubbled up. At the same time, Saint-Tropez faced stiff competition from younger, wilder party spots popping up in the Mediterranean, such as Ibiza . Just a few years later, with its glory years behind it, La Voile Rouge closed. However, it is now reborn in the Dubai International Financial Centre — and The National went along to see if it can recapture the magic of the golden era. The restaurant's location inside Al Fattan Currency House makes it difficult to find, especially if entering from the underground car park — it’s best to ask for directions as there are no obvious signposts. However, when my dining partner and I eventually discover the painted iron gates marking the entrance, we’re greeted by beaming faces from the charming staff. Unfortunately, we are the only diners here apart from a table of two in the corner. Whether it’s the hidden location or having opened in February, shortly before Ramadan and the quiet season, or a simple lack of awareness, it’s a shame to see it barren on a Saturday night. The only suggestion of its once glimmering reputation are the black-and-white photos on the walls, showing the celebrity-packed summers of old. And, it’s certainly undeserving given the high standard of food being served by chef Junior Nadje. With the busy offices right on its doorstep, the restaurant offers a lunch special of three courses for Dh130 or two for Dh100 — even if it’s not shown on its website. In the evening, the menu is simple and concise. It is, understandably, dotted with French classics including escargot, beer tartare, beef bourguignon and duck breast. They are joined by established crowd-pleasers such as lobster risotto, truffle and cheese rigatoni and roasted black Angus beef, as well as seafood and steak mains. We place our order with our cheerful waiter, who fashions a uniform in the style of a boat captain. Minutes later, he’s sailing back with an amuse-bouche that marks the start of a memorable meal: the truffleccino. It combines velvety smooth mashed potato and lashings of decadent truffle — and, though it’s served in a dainty espresso cup with a small spoon, it packs in plenty of joy. Snails (Dh95) come racing out of the kitchen next, alongside tuna tartare (Dh95). The first is a warm, buttery bowl of morsels wrapped in a fiery hit of garlic and parsley — it’s the stuff of nightmares for first dates in Hollywood romcoms. I go back for thirds, then fourths, refusing to buckle under the glare of my wife — I’ll ride home with my head out of the window if I must. Hats off to the chef who cubed the tartare; each is identical and the zing of citrus is a flavour explosion on the palate, which is tempered with the creamy avocado mash underneath. With our noses buried deep into both dishes, we miss our solitary dining accomplices leaving — though with food this welcoming, who needs company? Mains of Josper-grilled octopus (Dh210) and roasted sea bass (Dh165) follow, along with a trio of sides: creamy spinach and mushroom (Dh35), cheesy potato gratin (Dh35) and steamed vegetables (Dh35). The octopus is served with roasted baby new potatoes and an aromatic sauce. It has been kissed by flames on the grill for slight caramalisation, though it remains tender. The sea bass is served with courgettes and cream of sardines, which is, sadly, weird. Though the fish cooking is very good, the sardine concoction is a cold dollop akin to taramasalata. Thankfully, chefs steer the evening back on course with puddings of matcha tiramisu (Dh55) and a fruit basket (Dh75) fit for royalty. The first is a twist on the Italian classic, though, it benefits from being less sweet as chocolate makes way for the savoury green powder. And, the platter is a mix of cantaloupe melon, dragon fruit, blueberries, watermelon and pineapple, and would no doubt be the number one choice for old bronze abs and his Saint-Tropez friends. Yes, you’ll find chefs in every corner of the city overusing the fabled truffle, however, it feels right at home in the truffleccino. Even if I’d only tasted this, I’d still leave raving. Chef Nadje hails from Anyama, a small town in the Ivory Coast, and it’s where his love of food was born. His 15-year career spans Michelin-lauded kitchens in Paris, Monaco and London. Now, he’s the main man and keen to put his own spin on La Voile Rouge, while championing contemporary dining. “The philosophy of cooking is more than simply serving diners and just doing your job,” he says. “It is an art form, which connects people through emotions.” His aim is to take people on a journey from start to finish. “Nowadays, customers are conscious of what they order, what they eat and where ingredients are sourced from. “We try our best to be very attentive to our customer's needs. At La Voile Rouge, there is a dish for everyone.” With that in mind, he picks his favourite plates. For vegetarians, there’s the grilled red capsicum, finished with Terre Bormane olive oil. The marinated baby chicken is a must for carnivores, while the lobster risotto ticks the box for seafood fans. Finally, for sweet tooths, the chef chooses his dessert of lemon madeleine with rose Chantilly and lemongrass sorbet as a way to round off the evening. It’s a fitting dish for a restaurant oozing sunshine vibes straight from Saint-Tropez — and, hopefully, one to help draw in those crowds once again. Starters are priced between Dh65 and Dh110; mains between Dh115 and Dh350; and desserts hover around the Dh55 mark. La Voile Rouge is open from noon to 3pm and 7pm to midnight. Reservations can be made by calling 04 250 9459 or visiting www.lavoilerougebistro.com . This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant

La Voile Rouge review: Saint-Tropez celebrity haunt relaunches in Dubai

The beloved beach club welcomed everyone from Elton John to Bruce Willis before it was shut down