Kokoro review: Casual hand roll bar in Dubai is destined for greatness

As any Dubai resident will tell you, Alserkal Avenue is one of the emirate’s trendiest places to visit. This cultural district in Al Quoz industrial area is home to contemporary art galleries, home-grown businesses, performing arts organisations, artisanal spaces and more. But its latest offering takes an already thriving hub to even greater heights, with a food bar that’s raising eyebrows in gastronomic circles and looks set to become a haven for sushi lovers across the emirate. Kokoro has a clean, understated look that resembles the hand roll bars of inner-city Tokyo. It’s a fast-casual concept that gives the venue something of a street food vibe, with limited seating combined with a no-reservations policy working nicely with the sense that you’re not going to be here for long. It’s simple yet sleek with a polished wooden sushi bar circling the busy team of chefs as they work away in the open-plan kitchen. One of Kokoro’s core concepts is the importance of freshness (with four delivery flights per week) and there’s no room to doubt it within its four walls. Rows of fresh meat and fish line the bar, an array of vibrant colour on display illustrating that the taste is bound to be exceptional. We’re talking tuna, salmon, scallops and A5 Wagyu – all there, irresistibly, looking at you as you take to your seat. With the scene set, my dining partner and I take to our chairs all too aware that we’re lucky to find a spot at the countertop so we have a perfect view of the kitchen staff as they get to work. Toys (yes, toys) line up alongside each set of chopsticks and I find a novelty rubber duck next to mine. Intrigued to say the least, it’s time to tuck into the fantastic-looking food. My dining partner and I start with a serving of the sunomono (pickled cucumber salad) and hijiki (seaweed salad) to share. It’s a wonderfully delicate way to start our dinner as it’s light and refreshing but features intricate, crisp flavours. Next up, we go for two crudo dishes, namely maguro and hotate. What makes the maguro (bluefin tuna sashimi served with pickled cucumber and ponzu) is the fact that it’s so fresh with the chef expertly cutting the fish right in front of you before serving up. The hotate is the standout, though, as the bravery of serving scallops with orange works perfectly while the combination of zest and spice from the ponzu brings out all the natural flavour from the molluscs. Kokoro’s speciality, and the reason we think it’s destined for greatness in Dubai, is its selection of hand rolls. They are, in my humble opinion, the best hand rolls I’ve tasted in the UAE. The only difficulty with them is choosing your favourite. We know that the filling is going to be fresh and high quality but what we’re not expecting is that the rolls will be lightly toasted. As simple as it sounds, it gives them a unique crunch while the subtle warmth brings out the flavours within. My personal favourite is the spicy tuna roll, but the hamachi is also a must-try. Truth be told, you can’t really go wrong. The hand rolls are Kokoro’s speciality and they are, truly, special. What’s more, they can be purchased in sets of three, four, or five, at very affordable prices, making this a particularly sociable venue and one where you can be in and out within 30 minutes. If you like sushi and you’re looking for a new spot in town to visit with friends or loved ones, Kokoro has to be right at the top of your list. Kokoro is the brainchild of co-owner chefs Patrick Pham and Daniel Lee. Chef Pham, from Houston, Texas, says he is focused on blending traditional sushi with modern fusion cuisine. While Chef Lee, from San Francisco, California, has gradually shifted his focus towards Japanese food after training in classic French techniques earlier in his career. On their favourite ingredient to work with, seafood is the clear winner. “There are so many different types of fish with unique flavour profiles and numerous techniques for preparation,” Chef Pham explains. “It’s a never-ending journey of learning, which is why I fell in love with sushi.” Chef Pham defines his cooking style as the “art of sushi” because it “takes many years to learn and a lifetime to perfect”. “At Kokoro, we focus on hand rolls, nigiri, and crudos, bringing a contemporary touch to traditional sushi,” he adds. As for Chef Lee, he looks to blend traditional techniques with modern innovation, saying he aims to “respect the essence of each ingredient while experimenting with new flavour combinations and presentation styles to create a memorable dining experience”. For vegetarians, the chefs recommend Kokoro’s avocado hand roll, for meat lovers it’s the A5 nigiri as “you can never go wrong with A5 Wagyu” while for seafood lovers they recommend the spicy tuna with crispy nori. While Kokoro doesn’t serve dessert, Chef Pham suggests the maguro crudo or the hamchi hand roll as both offer an alternative, yet satisfying, end to the meal. Hand rolls range from Dh25 to Dh50, crudo dishes are Dh55 to Dh75, while nigiri and sashimi dishes range from Dh20 to Dh85. Kokoro is open 12pm to 11:30pm Thursday to Saturday and 12pm to 10:30pm Sunday to Wednesday. Kokoro does not take reservations. This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant

Kokoro review: Casual hand roll bar in Dubai is destined for greatness

The first of its kind in the city, it won’t be a best-kept secret for long