Guide to J1 Beach Dubai: Culinary renaissance by way of Miami, Ibiza and Cannes

As the summer heat gives way to cool mornings, balmy afternoons and refreshing evening breezes, the beaches of Dubai come alive. With opportunities for swimming, strolling and sunbathing, picnics, paddling and even a day out with the pets, each beach in the emirate has its own rhythm . Newcomer J1, which officially opened on Thursday on the stretch that used to be La Mer South, is attempting to redefine its share of the coastline as a day-to-night culinary extravaganza. My tour of nearly a dozen of the restaurants and beach clubs currently welcoming guests proves that J1 Beach has its recipe for success sorted. In the bright glare of day, the uphaul of the area is quite clear. Those who visited this end of La Mer before it was closed in 2022 might remember the City Walk-like aesthetic: brick roads, engineered wood nameplates, overly bright neon lighting and a distinctly rustic vibe. Formerly home to more than 40 businesses, the area has been transformed into a meticulously curated retreat of only 13 restaurants and beach clubs along what is now a private stretch of sand, in that the beach can only be accessed if you’re visiting one of the venues. I arrive a little after noon and make a beeline first for Baoli – following in the footsteps of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, who dined here on Sunday. The beach club is one of the bigger venues along the J1 strip. I follow a grand walkway, with a cute Prada shop tucked on the side, which brings me out into quite another world. One with lush greenery, immersive wood and stone landscaping, people sipping drinks on sunbeds or floating languidly in the swimming pool. I could well be in Baoli’s Cannes or Miami outposts. As the eye follows the natural curve of the pool deck, I see the beach is seamlessly connected to it, complete with cosy beds and dining tables on the sand. Lunch is replete with East Asian delights, including sea bass and shrimp gyoza and punchy truffle chicken skewers, courtesy of chef Omar Basiony (of L'Espalier Boston fame). “The culinary offering at Baoli is central to the overall experience,” says Guillaume Ferraz, managing director of “day life” at Sunset Hospitality Group, which brought Baoli to Dubai and alongside other spots such as SushiSamba and Drift Beach. “We place great emphasis on creating a dining experience that is memorable.” I keep forgetting I’m in Dubai – a recurring theme at J1 Beach – with each restaurant channelling a distinct look and feel. Neighbouring Ninive Beach, for example, exudes old-world Middle Eastern charm with its palatial decor. Even though it’s just a stone’s throw away from Baoli, the venue benefits from its smaller size, for guests who prefer intimacy and seclusion over grandiose surroundings. On the menu are dishes such as Moroccan chicken pastilla, Turkish manti and classic beef kibbeh. Next on my tour is a walk through African Queen, with its striking green tilework, elephant head wall hangings and gorgeous safari-designed plates imported from South America. I am a bit disappointed to find the menu is more Mediterranean than African, with its salad nicoise, wood-fired pizzas and fresh seafood plates. This is down to the brand’s roots in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, a charming seaside commune in France. The restaurant was founded by film buffs Lila and Pierre Brizio – and inspired by the Humphrey Bogart-starring movie of the same name – in 1969. Bogart himself has visited the venue along the French Riviera, as have Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Bono. In a bid to be even more exclusive, fellow French spot ChouChou is akin to a private club, with rates starting at Dh15,500 per person per year. This allows members to use the pool and private strip of beach, as well as the expansive second level of the restaurant. Non-members can still get a meal on the ground level – and chef Valentin Bernigaud’s la fleur d'artichaut (artichoke salad infused with truffle water) is worth a visit even without beach access. The allure of J1 Beach lies in the duality of its day and night offerings. As the sun sinks, the lights from all the venues come on in synchronised choreography and the music intensifies, imbuing the strip with a party spirit found in Mykonos or Ibiza. Standing on the shore, it’s obvious that each restaurant is looking to carve out its own aesthetic, creating pockets of distinct yet interconnected energy. I make my way to the Mexican spot Gitano, entry to which is through a charming entrance facing an Instagram-friendly mirror. The restaurant treads a modern Bohemian line, with an indoor restaurant space combining smooth marble and textured wood. Outside, a gigantic disco ball hangs from two intersecting poles, like an otherworldly invitation to dance the night away, as though I were at Gitano’s Tulum outpost instead, as the theme of portal to a new dimension continues playing in my head. The exceptional birria tacos provided the requisite energy needed for any shape-throwing. The talk of the town for the perfect end to a night out at J1 Beach is La Baia, inspired by the Amalfi Coast. Before I get to its dedicated “dessert room”, I can't help but stop to see the impressive interior work, from vibrant tiles to tableware design that pays homage to southern Italy. The sweets do not disappoint either, headlined by traditional Neapolitan soaked sponge cakes. Although the highlight of J1 Beach is its seamless connections to the sea, it’s worth noting that at least two venues are not beach-fronted, yet both are worth a visit. The decor at Spanish-inspired Lunico is inspired by the phases of the moon (yes, really), and the venue has some serious sci-fi feels complete with gentle billows of smoke. Circular sketches also adorn parts of the walls and the menu with pop-up pages makes browsing through it entertaining in itself. The second beach-bereft restaurant is Levantine Almayass by the Sea. An upscale yet cosy spot, it serves top-notch shrimp saganaki, Armenian sujuk and perfectly golden batata harra. The restaurant also has a seafood display, where guests can choose locally caught fish and have it cooked to their liking. I go for a grilled sea bass, with perfect charring for a punchy smoky flavour. If I had visitors from overseas craving Middle Eastern food, this is where I’d bring them. Yet-to-open venues include Sakhalin, which will offer a blend of Asian-Mediterranean cuisine; and chef Izu Ani’s Sirene by Gaia, the entrance of which stands out with its grand Grecian columns and awe-inspiring statue. The UAE has never had anything like J1 Beach before – and that's promising in itself, given how busy the restaurant scene gets month on month. The development stands out as a bold experiment in reimagining the beachfront experience in Dubai, but whether this ambitious vision will resonate long-term remains to be seen in this city with its fierce appetite for novelty. Most restaurants at J1 Beach open at 10am and close at 2am, but individual timings can vary per venue. The valet system is centralised with restaurants handing out vouchers for four hours of parking (which otherwise costs Dh75, and Dh30 per hour after the fourth hour)

Guide to J1 Beach Dubai: Culinary renaissance by way of Miami, Ibiza and Cannes

World-class beach clubs serve a mix of gourmet food and party vibes in the heart of the emirate