Tomorrow is Bastille Day and as celebrations ring out all over France, what better way for us to acknowledge le 14 juillet than with a nod to the country's cuisine.
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From soufflé to family-style pot-au-feu, crusty baguettes to buttery croissants, crèmes brûlées and caramel, not forgetting entrecôte-frites and boeuf bourguignon, it is hardly surprising that this nation is known for its food.
When it comes to French restaurants, we have dining options aplenty. In Abu Dhabi you can sample traditionally influenced dishes with a modern twist at Bord Eau, slurp down escargots and French onion soup in convivial surroundings at Le Beaujolais or start the day with a home-made pastry at La Brioche.
In Dubai, meanwhile, Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire has a reputation for fine dining with added flair and it's worth noting that from Monday to Friday, the lunchtime menu du marche (set menu) costs just Dh180 (a fraction of the price of an evening meal). With its modern bistro feel and Mediterranean-influenced food, La Petite Maison in DIFC has captured many a heart, and Crumbs Elysée, the bakery on Sheikh Zayed Road, serves very good baguettes.
But what about when it comes to cooking at home? While the language associated with this cuisine might sound intimidating (terrine, ballotine, bisque, etc) in France home cooking is about simple, flavoursome, gutsy dishes rather than cordon bleu fare. In the following recipes I've looked at three classic dishes which might seem intimating, but are in fact rather easy, provided you follow a few rules.
Potato dauphinoise
It is surely one of the triumphs of French cuisine that through the judicious application of cream (lots) and garlic (a hint), the humble potato can be transformed into something quite so delicious.
Those who wish to perfect their "dauph" need to bear a few things in mind, though. Waxy potatoes are a must for this recipe; they are more dense than their floury counterparts and will absorb the liquid and hold their shape as they cook. Floury varieties will simply turn to mush.
The potatoes then need to be sliced thinly and uniformly (no thicker than 1cm) to ensure even cooking. A mandolin is excellent for this, but failing that a steady hand is fine. If the potatoes are cut too thickly they will take much longer to cook and all the liquid will evaporate. Be generous with the cream and use plenty of salt and pepper (a dusting between each layer of potato) or the end result will be disappointingly bland.
The idea is to bake the potatoes slowly at a relatively low temperature - turn the oven up too high and the cream will split.
When it comes to the addition (or not) of cheese it really is up to you. Some cooks view this as an indulgence too far, while others are seduced by the bubbling, golden gratinated crust that comes courtesy of a sprinkling of gruyère.
Dauphinoise potatoes:
Serves 4
600g waxy potatoes (eg Désirée, Charlotte, pink fir apple)
2 garlic cloves, peeled
300ml whole milk
350ml double cream
50g gruyère cheese, grated (optional)
salt and black pepper
Heat the oven to 160°C/fan 140°C/gas 3. Peel and thinly slice the potatoes, pat dry with a clean tea towel and tip into a large bowl.
Finely chop one of the garlic cloves. Stir the cream, milk and chopped garlic together and season with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture over the potatoes and mix well to ensure that each slice is coated.
Cut the remaining garlic clove in half and rub around the insides of a shallow, ovenproof dish. Layer the potatoes into the dish, adding a little of the remaining liquid in between each layer. Press down on the top with the back of a spoon and pour over the leftover liquid.
Bake for 90 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife. Ten minutes before the end of the cooking time, increase the heat to 200°C/fan180°C/gas 6 and sprinkle over the cheese (if using). Leave to rest for five minutes before serving.
Brioche
Traditionally brioche is a special occasion bread: it is rich with eggs and butter and a bit of an effort to make. The following recipe is simpler than most (it doesn't require overnight resting) and uses less fat, yet still results in a soft, golden loaf that tastes particularly good when toasted. That said, it does take a while to make (set aside a morning), but most of this is proving/resting time and the recipe is not labour-intensive. As always, for best results you need to use quality ingredients: strong white bread flour and free-range eggs will make a difference. Unsalted butter is best in this instance - the fat needs to be hard and cold when you add it to the flour and the salted stuff tends to be too soft.
Turn the oven on as soon as you begin to make your brioche. This ensures that it will be properly hot by the time you come to cook the brioche and also warms up the room, meaning that the dough will be more responsive when you leave it to rest. A chilled, air-conditioned environment will slow this process down.
Brioche:
Makes 1 loaf
For the yeast batter
2 tsp dried yeast
4 tbsp milk, hand-hot
1 tsp caster sugar
25g strong white bread flour
For the dough
1 tsp salt
200g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tbsp caster sugar
50g butter, plus extra for greasing
3 eggs
Preheat the oven to 220°C/fan 200°C/gas 7. Stir the yeast into the milk and leave to stand for five minutes. Add the flour and the sugar and leave in a warm place until frothy (approximately 20 minutes).
Sieve the flour, salt and sugar into a large bowl then rub in the butter.
Beat two of the eggs into the frothy yeast batter, pour this into the flour mixture and bring together to form a soft dough.
Turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface and knead until soft, smooth and elastic. Cover with a dry cloth and leave to rest until the dough has doubled in size (approximately one hour to an hour and a half).
Lightly grease a small loaf tin (7in x 3in) with butter. Punch the dough to knock out the air, shape into a cylinder and place in the prepared tin. Cover with a cloth once more and leave to prove for 45 minutes to one hour or until doubled in size.
Brush the top of the dough with the remaining beaten egg and bake for 18-20 minutes, until the loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Tip out on to a wire rack and leave to cool.
French fruit tart
From pissaladière groaning with sweet onions and studded with anchovies to the apple tatin made famous by the sisters from Lamotte-Beuvron, not forgetting the classic quiche, the French are famed for their tarts.
A fruit tart, with its delicate pastry and sweet, scarlet berries resting on light, vanilla-scented cream is a lesson in refined simplicity and, crucially, isn't hard to make.
When it comes to short-crust pastry, the adage about cold hands certainly rings true, so make sure you keep the ingredients, bowl and your hands as cool as possible. It's also important to work quickly and to handle the pastry as little as possible - otherwise the fat will melt and turn the dough greasy. Chill the pastry twice, to allow the gluten to relax and gain elasticity and to prevent the pastry from shrinking in the oven. Using a combination of egg yolk and water not only makes the dough easier to roll, the end result is more crisp.
Crème patissiere is nothing more than an egg custard with added flour. For best results, make sure you whisk the eggs and sugar together until light and thick. While bringing the eggy liquid back to the boil once you return it to the stove might sound counter-intuitive, it is essential in order for the custard to thicken. You then need to simmer it for a couple of minutes to cook out the flour. Stir continuously to prevent the mixture from catching and if lumps do start to form, remove the pan from the heat and whisk vigorously. Once the crème patissiere is ready, cover the surface with cling film or brush it with a small amount of butter to prevent a skin from forming.
Fruit tart:
Serves 6
For the crème patissiere
6 egg yolks
140g caster sugar
50g plain flour (sieved)
500g full-fat milk
1 vanilla pod, split lengthways
For the pastry
90g very cold butter, diced
1 egg yolk
175g plain flour (sieved), plus extra for dusting
45g icing sugar (sieved)
pinch of salt
30ml ice cold water
250g mixed berries
24cm loose-based tart tin
To make the crème patissiere, whisk the eggs and half the sugar in a large bowl until pale and thick, then stir in the flour.
Pour the milk and remaining sugar into a pan, scrape in the vanilla seeds and place over a low heat. As soon as the first bubbles begin to show, remove from the heat and gradually add to the egg and sugar mixture, whisking continually.
Pour the liquid back into the pan and return to the heat. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, then reduce the heat and simmer for two minutes.
Pour into a bowl and cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin from forming. Leave to cool, then keep in the fridge until needed.
To make the pastry, stir the cold water and egg yolks together with a fork.
Put the flour, icing sugar, salt and butter into a food processor bowl. Pulse until the mixture comes together to resemble fine breadcrumbs.
Add two-thirds of the egg yolk/water mixture and pulse again. If the mixture seems too dry, add the remaining liquid (you won't necessarily need all of it). Stop pulsing when the mixture has the consistency of chunky breadcrumbs.
If you are making the pastry by hand, rub the butter into the sieved flour, icing sugar and salt until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and water a bit at a time and use a knife to gently bind the dough together.
Turn the pastry out on to a clean, floured work surface and bring together to form a smooth dough (don't be tempted to knead it, though). Shape into a flattened ball, cover with cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for at least 15 minutes.
Remove the pastry from the fridge and roll out into a circle that is slightly larger than the tart tin. Drape the pastry over a floured rolling pin, carefully unroll it on top of the tin and use your hands to press the pastry into the corners. Prick the base all over with a fork and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/gas 6. Line the pastry with a round of baking parchment and fill with baking beans (or rice). Bake for 15 minutes or until the edges of the pastry start to turn brown. Remove the paper and the baking beans and return to the oven for a further five to 10 minutes, until the base is golden brown and cooked through. Leave to cool, then trim off any excess pastry from around the edges using a small sharp knife.
Pour the cooled crème patissiere into the pastry case and smooth the surface with a spatula. Decorate with the mixed berries and chill in the fridge until you are ready to serve.
If you go
The flights
The closest international airport for those travelling from the UAE is Denver, Colorado. British Airways (www.ba.com) flies from the UAE via London from Dh3,700 return, including taxes. From there, transfers can be arranged to the ranch or it’s a seven-hour drive. Alternatively, take an internal flight to the counties of Cody, Casper, or Billings
The stay
Red Reflet offers a series of packages, with prices varying depending on season. All meals and activities are included, with prices starting from US$2,218 (Dh7,150) per person for a minimum stay of three nights, including taxes. For more information, visit red-reflet-ranch.net.
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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If you go
Flight connections to Ulaanbaatar are available through a variety of hubs, including Seoul and Beijing, with airlines including Mongolian Airlines and Korean Air. While some nationalities, such as Americans, don’t need a tourist visa for Mongolia, others, including UAE citizens, can obtain a visa on arrival, while others including UK citizens, need to obtain a visa in advance. Contact the Mongolian Embassy in the UAE for more information.
Nomadic Road offers expedition-style trips to Mongolia in January and August, and other destinations during most other months. Its nine-day August 2020 Mongolia trip will cost from $5,250 per person based on two sharing, including airport transfers, two nights’ hotel accommodation in Ulaanbaatar, vehicle rental, fuel, third party vehicle liability insurance, the services of a guide and support team, accommodation, food and entrance fees; nomadicroad.com
A fully guided three-day, two-night itinerary at Three Camel Lodge costs from $2,420 per person based on two sharing, including airport transfers, accommodation, meals and excursions including the Yol Valley and Flaming Cliffs. A return internal flight from Ulaanbaatar to Dalanzadgad costs $300 per person and the flight takes 90 minutes each way; threecamellodge.com
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Cricket World Cup League 2
UAE squad
Rahul Chopra (captain), Aayan Afzal Khan, Ali Naseer, Aryansh Sharma, Basil Hameed, Dhruv Parashar, Junaid Siddique, Muhammad Farooq, Muhammad Jawadullah, Muhammad Waseem, Omid Rahman, Rahul Bhatia, Tanish Suri, Vishnu Sukumaran, Vriitya Aravind
Fixtures
Friday, November 1 – Oman v UAE
Sunday, November 3 – UAE v Netherlands
Thursday, November 7 – UAE v Oman
Saturday, November 9 – Netherlands v UAE
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Director: Goran Hugo Olsson
Rating: 5/5
COMPANY PROFILE
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UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
SERIE A FIXTURES
Saturday (All UAE kick-off times)
Cagliari v AC Milan (6pm)
Lazio v Napoli (9pm)
Inter Milan v Atalanta (11.45pm)
Sunday
Udinese v Sassuolo (3.30pm)
Sampdoria v Brescia (6pm)
Fiorentina v SPAL (6pm)
Torino v Bologna (6pm)
Verona v Genoa (9pm)
Roma V Juventus (11.45pm)
Parma v Lecce (11.45pm)
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Director: Todd Phillips
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Company%20Profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENamara%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EJune%202022%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounder%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EMohammed%20Alnamara%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDubai%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EMicrofinance%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ECurrent%20number%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E16%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESeries%20A%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFamily%20offices%0D%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Company profile
Name: Infinite8
Based: Dubai
Launch year: 2017
Number of employees: 90
Sector: Online gaming industry
Funding: $1.2m from a UAE angel investor
The specs
Engine: 2.9-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 540hp at 6,500rpm
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Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Kerb weight: 1580kg
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England's all-time record goalscorers:
Wayne Rooney 53
Bobby Charlton 49
Gary Lineker 48
Jimmy Greaves 44
Michael Owen 40
Tom Finney 30
Nat Lofthouse 30
Alan Shearer 30
Viv Woodward 29
Frank Lampard 29
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Thank You for Banking with Us
Director: Laila Abbas
Starring: Yasmine Al Massri, Clara Khoury, Kamel El Basha, Ashraf Barhoum
Rating: 4/5
Moon Music
Artist: Coldplay
Label: Parlophone/Atlantic
Number of tracks: 10
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About Tenderd
Started: May 2018
Founder: Arjun Mohan
Based: Dubai
Size: 23 employees
Funding: Raised $5.8m in a seed fund round in December 2018. Backers include Y Combinator, Beco Capital, Venturesouq, Paul Graham, Peter Thiel, Paul Buchheit, Justin Mateen, Matt Mickiewicz, SOMA, Dynamo and Global Founders Capital
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Company name: Farmin
Date started: March 2019
Founder: Dr Ali Al Hammadi
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: AgriTech
Initial investment: None to date
Partners/Incubators: UAE Space Agency/Krypto Labs
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Director:Shakun Batra
Stars:Deepika Padukone, Siddhant Chaturvedi, Ananya Panday, Dhairya Karwa
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A cheaper choice
Vanuatu: $130,000
Why on earth pick Vanuatu? Easy. The South Pacific country has no income tax, wealth tax, capital gains or inheritance tax. And in 2015, when it was hit by Cyclone Pam, it signed an agreement with the EU that gave it some serious passport power.
Cost: A minimum investment of $130,000 for a family of up to four, plus $25,000 in fees.
Criteria: Applicants must have a minimum net worth of $250,000. The process take six to eight weeks, after which the investor must travel to Vanuatu or Hong Kong to take the oath of allegiance. Citizenship and passport are normally provided on the same day.
Benefits: No tax, no restrictions on dual citizenship, no requirement to visit or reside to retain a passport. Visa-free access to 129 countries.
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The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre 4-cylinder petrol
Power: 154bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Transmission: 7-speed automatic with 8-speed sports option
Price: From Dh79,600
On sale: Now
Ziina users can donate to relief efforts in Beirut
Ziina users will be able to use the app to help relief efforts in Beirut, which has been left reeling after an August blast caused an estimated $15 billion in damage and left thousands homeless. Ziina has partnered with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees to raise money for the Lebanese capital, co-founder Faisal Toukan says. “As of October 1, the UNHCR has the first certified badge on Ziina and is automatically part of user's top friends' list during this campaign. Users can now donate any amount to the Beirut relief with two clicks. The money raised will go towards rebuilding houses for the families that were impacted by the explosion.”
Arsenal's pre-season fixtures
Thursday Beat Sydney 2-0 in Sydney
Saturday v Western Sydney Wanderers in Sydney
Wednesday v Bayern Munich in Shanghai
July 22 v Chelsea in Beijing
July 29 v Benfica in London
July 30 v Sevilla in London
Jigra
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
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The specs
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Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)
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Sri Lanka-India Test series schedule
- 1st Test India won by 304 runs at Galle
- 2nd Test India won by innings and 53 runs at Colombo
- 3rd Test August 12-16 at Pallekele
THE%20HOLDOVERS
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Singham Again
Director: Rohit Shetty
Stars: Ajay Devgn, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ranveer Singh, Akshay Kumar, Tiger Shroff, Deepika Padukone
Rating: 3/5
Manchester City transfers:
OUTS
Pablo Zabaleta, Bacary Sagna, Gael Clichy, Willy Caballero and Jesus Navas (all released)
INS
Ederson (Benfica) £34.7m, Bernardo Silva (Monaco) £43m
ON THEIR WAY OUT?
Joe Hart, Eliaquim Mangala, Samir Nasri, Wilfried Bony, Fabian Delph, Nolito and Kelechi Iheanacho
ON THEIR WAY IN?
Dani Alves (Juventus), Alexis Sanchez (Arsenal)
3%20Body%20Problem
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COMPANY%20PROFILE%3A
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Everton%20Fixtures
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More from Armen Sarkissian
Specs
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World Test Championship table
1 India 71 per cent
2 New Zealand 70 per cent
3 Australia 69.2 per cent
4 England 64.1 per cent
5 Pakistan 43.3 per cent
6 West Indies 33.3 per cent
7 South Africa 30 per cent
8 Sri Lanka 16.7 per cent
9 Bangladesh 0
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
The biog
Age: 19
Profession: medical student at UAE university
Favourite book: The Ocean at The End of The Lane by Neil Gaiman
Role model: Parents, followed by Fazza (Shiekh Hamdan bin Mohammed)
Favourite poet: Edger Allen Poe
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MATCH INFO
Who: UAE v USA
What: first T20 international
When: Friday, 2pm
Where: ICC Academy in Dubai
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
FFP EXPLAINED
What is Financial Fair Play?
Introduced in 2011 by Uefa, European football’s governing body, it demands that clubs live within their means. Chiefly, spend within their income and not make substantial losses.
What the rules dictate?
The second phase of its implementation limits losses to €30 million (Dh136m) over three seasons. Extra expenditure is permitted for investment in sustainable areas (youth academies, stadium development, etc). Money provided by owners is not viewed as income. Revenue from “related parties” to those owners is assessed by Uefa's “financial control body” to be sure it is a fair value, or in line with market prices.
What are the penalties?
There are a number of punishments, including fines, a loss of prize money or having to reduce squad size for European competition – as happened to PSG in 2014. There is even the threat of a competition ban, which could in theory lead to PSG’s suspension from the Uefa Champions League.
The specs
Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now
Specs%3A%202024%20McLaren%20Artura%20Spider
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Know your camel milk:
Flavour: Similar to goat’s milk, although less pungent. Vaguely sweet with a subtle, salty aftertaste.
Texture: Smooth and creamy, with a slightly thinner consistency than cow’s milk.
Use it: In your morning coffee, to add flavour to homemade ice cream and milk-heavy desserts, smoothies, spiced camel-milk hot chocolate.
Goes well with: chocolate and caramel, saffron, cardamom and cloves. Also works well with honey and dates.
The specs: 2018 Mercedes-Benz GLA
Price, base / as tested Dh150,900 / Dh173,600
Engine 2.0L inline four-cylinder
Transmission Seven-speed automatic
Power 211hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque 350Nm @ 1,200rpm
Fuel economy, combined 6.4L / 100km
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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A%20QUIET%20PLACE
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.