Any ajvar is better than no ajvar, even if it doesn't taste quite like it would back home – so believes Stasha Toncev, the founder and owner of 21 Grams, the first restaurant in Dubai to serve food solely from the expansive Balkan Peninsula.
Often called the caviar of the Balkans, ajvar (pronounced ayvar) has chargrilled or roasted sweet red peppers as its main ingredient; to this can be added garlic, salt, oil, chilli peppers and/or aubergine, depending on the country it’s made in. The vegetable preserve is a popular accompaniment to most dishes, and can be served as a dip, spread or relish.
“Let’s face it, nobody can make a dish better than your mum back at home,” says Toncev with a laugh, when I meet her at the Jumeirah Road eatery on the ground floor of the recently opened Park Regis Boutique.
“Initially I was a bit worried about the preconceived notions and cravings that those who have grown up eating Balkan food would come with. But we are lucky because people have been very open-minded about the variations in flavour of even familiar dishes. Also, these signature foods often differ in taste from house to house, let alone from one town or one country to the other,” she says.
In the case of the Balkans, that would be about a dozen countries, including Albania, Bulgaria, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Montenegro, mainland Romania, southern Serbia, and even bits of Greece, Turkey and Italy.
Over the centuries, various parts of the peninsula were controlled by at least three empires – the Ottomans, the Austro-Hungarians and the Italians. Accordingly, Balkan cuisine is a combination of these different influences, and includes a diet rich in breads, cheeses and meat.
"Instead of segregating dishes by country, we've tried to bring food from the mountains, valleys and coastal areas of the region at large, so while we have plenty of meat, there's also a focus on seafood, and heaps and heaps of fresh vegetables," Toncev says. "And what rice is to the Asians, bread is to those from the Balkans. There is no meal without it. It's an accessible dish that's almost always made fresh at home. That's why I insisted we have our own bakery at 21 Grams," she says. The name is a reference to a 1907 experiment that suggested the weight of the human soul is 21 grams.
Toncev recommends that newcomers to the cuisine sample the five mezze dishes that in-the-know diners invariably order, a starter kit to Balkan food, as it were: sarma (sour cabbage with meat), cevapi (meat patties in somun flatbread), burek (flaky dough filled with cheese or meat), kajmak (a savoury clotted cream cheese) and urnebes (red-hot chilli cheese).
Her two must-have mains, meanwhile, include a slow-cooked lamb in milk with poached apple; and pasticada, a dish from the Dalmatia region of Croatia, with hand-pulled beef, prunes, apples and cheese-stuffed gnocchi. “For vegetarians, we took a very popular Balkan dish – moussaka – traditionally made with meat, and recreated it with lentil and chickpea ragout, and layers of zucchini and aged cheddar.”
Modification is a big part of the menu. It has to be, Toncev says, because of two factors. Traditionally, most Balkan dishes are made to get through cold, harsh winters, for people doing physical work all day long. "Take sarma, for example. In Serbia, the cabbage is served with meat and rice, all of which are first fried and then oven-baked with dry meat, leaving it to cook in its own juices, which makes the dish very hearty.
"We avoid that in the UAE by substituting heavy oven-baked juices of the meat with a fresh tomato sauce. It's a simple twist but it lends lightness to the dish."
The second reason is the quality of produce, which Toncev claims is impossible to replicate in the UAE's mostly hot climes. "We buy only from local farmers and at organic markets every morning. I don't believe in shipping or flying products in from Europe or Australia; there's no freshness left," she says.
“Let me tell you a scary story. I once bought some beautiful red bell peppers from a high-end supermarket. Before I could eat them, I left for a four-week trip, forgetting the peppers in my fridge. I was dreading opening that fridge after a month but to my shock I found they had not a single wrinkle on them. They were exactly like the day they had been bought.
"And I thought to myself, if these peppers are able to stay so long without a blemish, having travelled from Australia and sat in a warehouse and on the shelf and in my house for however long, they must be pumped full of preservatives. Since then, I've bought only fresh regional produce, and it's made all the difference to my weight and well-being.
"Balkan food is very simple; there's not much by way of technique or presentation. Its strongest point is the flavours, which can only be obtained by using fresh ingredients."
In the near future, 21 Grams aims to become fully entrenched in the Slow Food Movement, where
produce imported from within 2,000 kilometres qualifies as slow food, which is typically produced or prepared using high-quality and locally sourced ingredients. Accordingly, Tonchev and Serbian head chef Uros are looking to India, Iran, Jordan and Syria at the peak of summer in the UAE.
She says: “It’s not only the food, I’d very much like the whole eating experience to be slow. In hospitality, staff are often trained to put up a sort of shield, only speaking as much as is necessary. But at 21 Grams, we want you to engage with the servers, all of whom are from the Balkans and can tell you some fascinating stories and histories of the dishes on your plate. For me, conversation adds such a nice touch to a meal. It’s a soulful experience in a very fast-paced city.”
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Business Insights
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The specs: 2018 BMW X2 and X3
Price, as tested: Dh255,150 (X2); Dh383,250 (X3)
Engine: 2.0-litre turbocharged inline four-cylinder (X2); 3.0-litre twin-turbo inline six-cylinder (X3)
Power 192hp @ 5,000rpm (X2); 355hp @ 5,500rpm (X3)
Torque: 280Nm @ 1,350rpm (X2); 500Nm @ 1,520rpm (X3)
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic (X2); Eight-speed automatic (X3)
Fuel consumption, combined: 5.7L / 100km (X2); 8.3L / 100km (X3)
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RACE SCHEDULE
All times UAE ( 4 GMT)
Friday, September 29
First practice: 7am - 8.30am
Second practice: 11am - 12.30pm
Saturday, September 30
Qualifying: 1pm - 2pm
Sunday, October 1
Race: 11am - 1pm
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
The Bio
Favourite place in UAE: Al Rams pearling village
What one book should everyone read: Any book written before electricity was invented. When a writer willingly worked under candlelight, you know he/she had a real passion for their craft
Your favourite type of pearl: All of them. No pearl looks the same and each carries its own unique characteristics, like humans
Best time to swim in the sea: When there is enough light to see beneath the surface
Company%20Profile
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More from Mohammed Alardhi
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
Pakistan World Cup squad
Sarfraz Ahmed (c), Fakhar Zaman, Imam-ul-Haq, Abid Ali, Babar Azam, Haris Sohail, Shoaib Malik, Mohammad Hafeez(subject to fitness), Imad Wasim, Shadab Khan, Hasan Ali, Faheem Ashraf, Junaid Khan, Shaheen Shah Afridi, Mohammad Hasnain
Two additions for England ODIs: Mohammad Amir and Asif Ali
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Napoleon
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Trolls World Tour
Directed by: Walt Dohrn, David Smith
Starring: Anna Kendrick, Justin Timberlake
Rating: 4 stars
MATCH INFO
World Cup qualifier
Thailand 2 (Dangda 26', Panya 51')
UAE 1 (Mabkhout 45 2')
MATCH INFO
Manchester City 3
Danilo (16'), Bernardo Silva (34'), Fernandinho (72')
Brighton & Hove Albion 1
Ulloa (20')
Directed by: Craig Gillespie
Starring: Emma Stone, Emma Thompson, Joel Fry
4/5
Company%20Profile
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PROFILE OF SWVL
Started: April 2017
Founders: Mostafa Kandil, Ahmed Sabbah and Mahmoud Nouh
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Sector: transport
Size: 450 employees
Investment: approximately $80 million
Investors include: Dubai’s Beco Capital, US’s Endeavor Catalyst, China’s MSA, Egypt’s Sawari Ventures, Sweden’s Vostok New Ventures, Property Finder CEO Michael Lahyani
Results
1. New Zealand Daniel Meech – Fine (name of horse), Richard Gardner – Calisto, Bruce Goodin - Backatorps Danny V, Samantha McIntosh – Check In. Team total First round: 200.22; Second round: 201.75 – Penalties 12 (jump-off 40.16 seconds) Prize €64,000
2. Ireland Cameron Hanley – Aiyetoro, David Simpson – Keoki, Paul Kennedy – Cartown Danger Mouse, Shane Breen – Laith. Team total 200.25/202.84 – P 12 (jump-off 51.79 – P17) Prize €40,000
3. Italy Luca Maria Moneta – Connery, Luca Coata – Crandessa, Simone Coata – Dardonge, Natale Chiaudani – Almero. Team total 130.82/198.-4 – P20. Prize €32,000
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Squid Game season two
Director: Hwang Dong-hyuk
Stars: Lee Jung-jae, Wi Ha-joon and Lee Byung-hun
Rating: 4.5/5
The specs
Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors
Power: 480kW
Torque: 850Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)
On sale: Now
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The Lowdown
Kesari
Rating: 2.5/5 stars
Produced by: Dharma Productions, Azure Entertainment
Directed by: Anubhav Singh
Cast: Akshay Kumar, Parineeti Chopra
10 tips for entry-level job seekers
- Have an up-to-date, professional LinkedIn profile. If you don’t have a LinkedIn account, set one up today. Avoid poor-quality profile pictures with distracting backgrounds. Include a professional summary and begin to grow your network.
- Keep track of the job trends in your sector through the news. Apply for job alerts at your dream organisations and the types of jobs you want – LinkedIn uses AI to share similar relevant jobs based on your selections.
- Double check that you’ve highlighted relevant skills on your resume and LinkedIn profile.
- For most entry-level jobs, your resume will first be filtered by an applicant tracking system for keywords. Look closely at the description of the job you are applying for and mirror the language as much as possible (while being honest and accurate about your skills and experience).
- Keep your CV professional and in a simple format – make sure you tailor your cover letter and application to the company and role.
- Go online and look for details on job specifications for your target position. Make a list of skills required and set yourself some learning goals to tick off all the necessary skills one by one.
- Don’t be afraid to reach outside your immediate friends and family to other acquaintances and let them know you are looking for new opportunities.
- Make sure you’ve set your LinkedIn profile to signal that you are “open to opportunities”. Also be sure to use LinkedIn to search for people who are still actively hiring by searching for those that have the headline “I’m hiring” or “We’re hiring” in their profile.
- Prepare for online interviews using mock interview tools. Even before landing interviews, it can be useful to start practising.
- Be professional and patient. Always be professional with whoever you are interacting with throughout your search process, this will be remembered. You need to be patient, dedicated and not give up on your search. Candidates need to make sure they are following up appropriately for roles they have applied.
Arda Atalay, head of Mena private sector at LinkedIn Talent Solutions, Rudy Bier, managing partner of Kinetic Business Solutions and Ben Kinerman Daltrey, co-founder of KinFitz
The Prison Letters of Nelson Mandela
Edited by Sahm Venter
Published by Liveright
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The finalists
Player of the Century, 2001-2020: Cristiano Ronaldo (Juventus), Lionel Messi (Barcelona), Mohamed Salah (Liverpool), Ronaldinho
Coach of the Century, 2001-2020: Pep Guardiola (Manchester City), Jose Mourinho (Tottenham Hotspur), Zinedine Zidane (Real Madrid), Sir Alex Ferguson
Club of the Century, 2001-2020: Al Ahly (Egypt), Bayern Munich (Germany), Barcelona (Spain), Real Madrid (Spain)
Player of the Year: Cristiano Ronaldo, Lionel Messi, Robert Lewandowski (Bayern Munich)
Club of the Year: Bayern Munich, Liverpool, Real Madrid
Coach of the Year: Gian Piero Gasperini (Atalanta), Hans-Dieter Flick (Bayern Munich), Jurgen Klopp (Liverpool)
Agent of the Century, 2001-2020: Giovanni Branchini, Jorge Mendes, Mino Raiola
Crazy Rich Asians
Director: Jon M Chu
Starring: Constance Wu, Henry Golding, Michelle Yeon, Gemma Chan
Four stars
Tips to avoid getting scammed
1) Beware of cheques presented late on Thursday
2) Visit an RTA centre to change registration only after receiving payment
3) Be aware of people asking to test drive the car alone
4) Try not to close the sale at night
5) Don't be rushed into a sale
6) Call 901 if you see any suspicious behaviour
Tips for job-seekers
- Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
- Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.
David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.
When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.
How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
