How a Government ban will promote healthy eating habits in the UAE

From May 15, certain fruits and vegetables from Oman, Egypt, Jordan, Yemen and Lebanon will be banned in the UAE. The move, ordered by the Government, comes amid rising concern about levels of toxicity in produce from pesticides.

Some sellers and consumers have been taken aback by the announcement. Industry analysts forecast that with increased reliance on imports from Europe, North Africa and Australia, prices could rise by up to 70 per cent.

Restaurants owners and chefs, however, appear less concerned and are generally welcoming the news.

“The UAE is setting a precedent by saying they don’t want this type of produce,” says Jens Muenchenbach, executive chef at the Waldorf Astoria in Dubai.

“Other countries will now look to here as an example of what could be done and we might really have a chance to find solutions.”

According to the Ministry of Climate Change and Environment, pesticides – especially derivatives of chlorinated pesticides – put humans and the environment at risk.

To ensure imports comply with global health and safety standards, the UAE tests all food in laboratories approved by the British Commission for Accreditation. Countries affected by the ban must now submit certificates to prove that all domestic produce is free of pesticide residues, before imports will be allowed to resume.

“Fifty years ago, we saw very few people with allergies and intolerances,” says Muenchenbach. “Today, they are everywhere – and it’s all self-made. We’ve done this to our own food and it’s eventually affecting our bodies.”

Muenchenbach runs a tight ship at the Waldorf Astoria, spearheading a team that produces up to 2,000 meals a day.

He sources the majority of his pesticide-free fruit and vegetables – including kale, tomatoes and cucumbers – from UAE distributors such as Ripe Organic. He also grows organic and sustainable herbs on-site at the hotel, on the Palm Jumeirah.

“Different varieties of basil grow very well, lemon grass, oregano, mint and small chilis too,” says Muenchenbach.

“We also grow a lot of sage and thyme, but only in the winter. Any restaurant that tells you they are growing all of their own their own fruit and vegetables, is lying. Imagine how large my garden would have to be to make that happen every day. It’s simply not possible. You’d need isolated and climatised greenhouses, open fields with shade during the summer, and a huge amount of watering and irrigation. You might as well import the produce to save on energy.”

Having identified a gap in the market, Elena Kinane founded Greenheart Organic Farms in Sharjah five years ago. The chemical and pesticide-free company delivers freshly- harvested seasonal produce to residents, plus 30 hotels and restaurants, from the Four Seasons group to Atlantis.

“We grow more than 100 different products and we take very good care of how we do things.” says Kinane. “We’re pretty self-sufficient and even have our own soil-building programme – mixing our own compost. The manure comes from goats and chickens kept purely on the farm for that purpose.

“Some days we’re producing up to a tonne of vegetables and right now we have 40 different types of chemical-free heirloom tomatoes. They are every shape, size, colour and flavour – I don’t believe any other UAE farm is doing that.”

The Government’s ban on imported fruit and vegetables from certain countries could provide a boost to Kinane’s business. She believes it’s up to consumers to educate themselves about what they are eating and to source food responsibly.

“As an organic farmer I understand why the Government is doing this.” says Kinane. “I’m aware of how many bad chemicals are being used to grow conventional produce and how toxic they are. These chemicals aren’t being tested in conjunction with each other. Instead, every herbicide and pesticide is tested individually. The problem is that most people use a cocktail of many different ones together. That needs to be fully researched, especially in countries with poor regulation.”

The internet provides lots of information for people seeking to educate themselves about potentially-harmful foods, says Kinane.

The more informed shoppers are, the more pressure they can put on supermarkets to regularly test vegetables for poisonous substances and to stock more sustainable produce.

There is also little justification for organic produce being sold at significantly higher costs by leading food retailers, as is often the case.

“A kilo of our capsicum is cheaper than Spinney’s, plus it’s fresh, chemical-free and so tasty,” says Kinane, who delivers food within 24 hours when ordered online.

“And if a restaurant was importing loose tomatoes from abroad, they might pay Dh50 Dh70 a kilo and they could be soft, bad quality and ultimately no good, whereas our local ones, which are freshly-picked in the morning, might only cost Dh25.”

An early convert to the UAE’s home-grown, organic fruit and vegetable movement was Ian Ohan, the founder and chief executive of food chain Freedom Pizza. He built the restaurant brand with food integrity and provenance in mind, using local producers wherever possible.

The food enthusiast has worked closely with Kinane and her team to cultivate a precise range of ingredients that the restaurant needs.

“Over the past six years, we’ve been able to provide Greenheart with a grow schedule of what we’d like – up to four months in advance.” says Ohan. “It’s worked out pretty seamlessly and allows the farm to produce to our requirements. The kale is great, the beetroot too, plus all fruit is picked straight from the vine.”

Healthy and sustainable food does not translate to massive markups at Ohan’s restaurant, where pizzas range in price from Dh33 to Dh53.

“We’ve worked it out and the cost of our produce is marginally higher – if not the same – as what we’d pay for non-organic produce,” he says. “If you look at the supply chain in the UAE, in many cases you’re paying more for the cost of transport, shipping, handling, customs and clearance, than you are for the actual products. We’ve cut out the middlemen and are therefore able to offer great value and a better product to our consumers.”

It is not only what we eat that merits closer inspection, but also what we drink. Kerim Muvdi, the chief executive of The Raw Place, is blazing a trail for organic snacks, genetically modified organism-free cold presses and smoothies. Popular seasonal orders include fennel, celery, apple, lime and ginger juices, as well as pesto kelp noodles.

“We believe that what the Government is doing to protect the UAE consumer is excellent,” says Muvdi. “It will build consumer confidence in the market. After all, pesticides have been linked to headaches, nausea, and chronic illnesses, cancer, and endocrine issues.”

Muvdi predicts that more food and beverage outlets will incorporate locally grown, organic fruit and vegetables into their daily menus in the near future.

The UAE’s increased appetite for chemical-free ingredients, however, isn’t always met by domestic supply.

“We get our organic veggies and Granny Smith apples from Organic Oasis in Dubai,” says Muvdi. “But one thing we would like to see more of a variety of is organic berries – including blackberries and raspberries. Luckily, organic blueberries and strawberries are commonly found.”

rduane@thenational.ae