French culinary whiz Hélène Darroze has taken up residence at At.mosphere restaurant in Dubai’s Burj Khalifa this week.
We caught up with the 47-year-old chef as she put the finishing touches to dishes created especially for diners from this evening until April 30.
Welcome to Dubai chef Darroze, describe the degustation menus you have you created for At.mosphere?
The menu I have created is mainly around the signature dishes of my preferred cuisine like oyster tartare & black rice. I’m also using some favorite produce from my country, the South West of France, like foie gras, calamari and corn-fed chicken. And, of course, there will be plenty of seasonal produce like asparagus and morel too.
I always pay particular attention to the produce I cook with, choosing the best from the market and the best of the season. I really believe that on the plate, the chef is not the star, but the produce is. And so, I created the menus for At.mosphere according to that philosophy.
Single out one of your favourite dishes and describe the process of making it?
The black rice is probably one my most popular signature dishes. It’s something I always have on my menus. Basically, the rice - which is a very special organic Italian rice - is cooked in true Basque style with some squid ink. Then I roast some calamari (which is one of the most important products from Saint-Jean de Luz – the Basque country in France where I source my products). I then deglaze the pan with lemon juice and olive oil to cook a bitter jus which will contrast with the richness of the creamy rice. I also add confit tomatoes and parsley. To finish the dish I’ll pour a Parmigiano emulsion on top of the rice as a wink to the Italian risotto.
You are a fourth generation chef, was it a voluntary decision to enter the culinary world?
I’ve always liked cooking and eating. I started baking pastries when I was 6 and never stopped since. That said, I am part of a generation who, in the 1990s, didn’t hold being a chef in particularly high-regard, especially if you were a good student like I was. Plus, in my family only the men became chefs and the gastronomic field was dominated by them. So I studied at university until I was 24 and then joined the team of (three Michelin star French chef) Alain Ducasse in Monaco. I started with him in the kitchen and straight away I realized that this was my world. And at the end of the day, I think my family was happy that I became a chef.
Do you have aspirations for your two daughters to follow in your footsteps?
My daughters are very young (7 and 5 years old). They love cooking with me and they are real foodies. But I don’t have any aspirations for them, except for them both to be happy with their lives.
Can you share one of your most memorable experiences from your time working under chef Ducasse?
Yes, probably the first service I spent in his kitchen. I was completely hypnotized by what I saw; the work of the chefs, their coordination (there were 25), the concentration etc. It was just like a ballet. And of course I was so impressed by the quality of the food, the attention to detail. That first service is something that I will never forget.
I was also very impressed when we welcomed Monaco’s royal family to the restaurant. It was Princess Charlotte Casiraghi’s birthday (she was probably 5 or 6 at this time) and Alain Ducasse asked me to give a present to her on his behalf which was very intimidating.
Describe the moment you received news of your Michelin stars?
I was in New York when news of the two Michelin stars in Paris came through. I was cooking for a special event and because my restaurant in Paris was still fairly new, I asked my father to oversee operations in my absence. So it was actually he who first received the news. He called me straight away, even though it was the middle of the night my time. He was crying so much, because he was so happy, that he could not speak and I thought that something serious had happened in the family. But ultimately, it was one of the biggest joys of my life, and also a huge frustration as I was alone in my hotel room and couldn’t share the moment with my team or family.
What do you make of Dubai and its restaurant scene?
I am very excited to cook in Dubai. It is the first time for me and I hope it won’t be the last. Plus, cooking in the tallest restaurant in the world is completely unique! The Dubai scene is so exciting when you see it from London or Paris. It seems that the most talented chefs and the most amazing restaurants of the world are concentrated in this city. I’m keen to rediscover many of the chefs whom I’ve known from Paris, London or the States. I’m really interested to see how they’ve adapted and performed here. I also must admit that I harbour a dream to become part of the Dubai restaurant scene. Not just as a pop-up, but as a more permanent restaurant.
To book a table at At.mosphere in Burj Khalifa call +97148883444 or go to www.atmosphereburjkhalifa.com
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Vidaamuyarchi
Director: Magizh Thirumeni
Stars: Ajith Kumar, Arjun Sarja, Trisha Krishnan, Regina Cassandra
Rating: 4/5
The Brutalist
Director: Brady Corbet
Stars: Adrien Brody, Felicity Jones, Guy Pearce, Joe Alwyn
Rating: 3.5/5
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Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
The specs: 2018 Chevrolet Trailblazer
Price, base / as tested Dh99,000 / Dh132,000
Engine 3.6L V6
Transmission: Six-speed automatic
Power 275hp @ 6,000rpm
Torque 350Nm @ 3,700rpm
Fuel economy combined 12.2L / 100km
THE LIGHT
Director: Tom Tykwer
Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger
Rating: 3/5
Super Rugby play-offs
Quarter-finals
- Hurricanes 35, ACT 16
- Crusaders 17, Highlanders 0
- Lions 23, Sharks 21
- Chiefs 17, Stormers 11
Semi-finals
Saturday, July 29
- Crusaders v Chiefs, 12.35pm (UAE)
- Lions v Hurricanes, 4.30pm
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
The Sand Castle
Director: Matty Brown
Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea
Rating: 2.5/5
Results:
Men's wheelchair 800m T34: 1. Walid Ktila (TUN) 1.44.79; 2. Mohammed Al Hammadi (UAE) 1.45.88; 3. Isaac Towers (GBR) 1.46.46.
Mia Man’s tips for fermentation
- Start with a simple recipe such as yogurt or sauerkraut
- Keep your hands and kitchen tools clean. Sanitize knives, cutting boards, tongs and storage jars with boiling water before you start.
- Mold is bad: the colour pink is a sign of mold. If yogurt turns pink as it ferments, you need to discard it and start again. For kraut, if you remove the top leaves and see any sign of mold, you should discard the batch.
- Always use clean, closed, airtight lids and containers such as mason jars when fermenting yogurt and kraut. Keep the lid closed to prevent insects and contaminants from getting in.
The winners
Fiction
- ‘Amreekiya’ by Lena Mahmoud
- ‘As Good As True’ by Cheryl Reid
The Evelyn Shakir Non-Fiction Award
- ‘Syrian and Lebanese Patricios in Sao Paulo’ by Oswaldo Truzzi; translated by Ramon J Stern
- ‘The Sound of Listening’ by Philip Metres
The George Ellenbogen Poetry Award
- ‘Footnotes in the Order of Disappearance’ by Fady Joudah
Children/Young Adult
- ‘I’ve Loved You Since Forever’ by Hoda Kotb
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
Company profile
Name: Oulo.com
Founder: Kamal Nazha
Based: Dubai
Founded: 2020
Number of employees: 5
Sector: Technology
Funding: $450,000
How to avoid crypto fraud
- Use unique usernames and passwords while enabling multi-factor authentication.
- Use an offline private key, a physical device that requires manual activation, whenever you access your wallet.
- Avoid suspicious social media ads promoting fraudulent schemes.
- Only invest in crypto projects that you fully understand.
- Critically assess whether a project’s promises or returns seem too good to be true.
- Only use reputable platforms that have a track record of strong regulatory compliance.
- Store funds in hardware wallets as opposed to online exchanges.
MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League final:
Who: Real Madrid v Liverpool
Where: NSC Olimpiyskiy Stadium, Kiev, Ukraine
When: Saturday, May 26, 10.45pm (UAE)
TV: Match on BeIN Sports
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
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How to get there
Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies directly to Hanoi, Vietnam, with fares starting from around Dh2,725 return, while Etihad (www.etihad.com) fares cost about Dh2,213 return with a stop. Chuong is 25 kilometres south of Hanoi.
The specs
Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors
Power: 480kW
Torque: 850Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)
On sale: Now
Tips on buying property during a pandemic
Islay Robinson, group chief executive of mortgage broker Enness Global, offers his advice on buying property in today's market.
While many have been quick to call a market collapse, this simply isn’t what we’re seeing on the ground. Many pockets of the global property market, including London and the UAE, continue to be compelling locations to invest in real estate.
While an air of uncertainty remains, the outlook is far better than anyone could have predicted. However, it is still important to consider the wider threat posed by Covid-19 when buying bricks and mortar.
Anything with outside space, gardens and private entrances is a must and these property features will see your investment keep its value should the pandemic drag on. In contrast, flats and particularly high-rise developments are falling in popularity and investors should avoid them at all costs.
Attractive investment property can be hard to find amid strong demand and heightened buyer activity. When you do find one, be prepared to move hard and fast to secure it. If you have your finances in order, this shouldn’t be an issue.
Lenders continue to lend and rates remain at an all-time low, so utilise this. There is no point in tying up cash when you can keep this liquidity to maximise other opportunities.
Keep your head and, as always when investing, take the long-term view. External factors such as coronavirus or Brexit will present challenges in the short-term, but the long-term outlook remains strong.
Finally, keep an eye on your currency. Whenever currency fluctuations favour foreign buyers, you can bet that demand will increase, as they act to secure what is essentially a discounted property.
The Bio
Favourite vegetable: “I really like the taste of the beetroot, the potatoes and the eggplant we are producing.”
Holiday destination: “I like Paris very much, it’s a city very close to my heart.”
Book: “Das Kapital, by Karl Marx. I am not a communist, but there are a lot of lessons for the capitalist system, if you let it get out of control, and humanity.”
Musician: “I like very much Fairuz, the Lebanese singer, and the other is Umm Kulthum. Fairuz is for listening to in the morning, Umm Kulthum for the night.”
The bio
Date of Birth: April 25, 1993
Place of Birth: Dubai, UAE
Marital Status: Single
School: Al Sufouh in Jumeirah, Dubai
University: Emirates Airline National Cadet Programme and Hamdan University
Job Title: Pilot, First Officer
Number of hours flying in a Boeing 777: 1,200
Number of flights: Approximately 300
Hobbies: Exercising
Nicest destination: Milan, New Zealand, Seattle for shopping
Least nice destination: Kabul, but someone has to do it. It’s not scary but at least you can tick the box that you’ve been
Favourite place to visit: Dubai, there’s no place like home