Has Middle Eastern fashion ever had a higher international profile? Red carpets worldwide are the modern measure of a designer's success, and while Elie Saab's gowns have been gracing them for over a decade, the past two years have seen a rush to harness the Arabian glitz that shines so brightly under the flashbulbs.
The designers of Lebanon, for example, are setting up shop in Paris - Saab, Zuhair Murad, Robert Adi Nader, Basil Soda, Rabih Kayrouz - and New York - Georges Chakra, Reem Acra - and in the past couple of weeks alone the London-based Omani designer Amr Ali has seen his label BodyAmr sported by Elle Macpherson, Hilary Swank and Katy Perry.
This can only be good news for Rami al Ali, the much-loved Dubai-based couturier who has just celebrated his 10th year in business in the UAE.
Today, al Ali will show his extravagant evening gowns at the Rome couture fashion week Alta Roma for the fourth time, in his continuing efforts to grow his label internationally, and if the global passion for Middle Eastern fashion is anything to go by, this could be his season.
It's started already: last week the 38-year-old Syrian provided two ball gowns for attendees at Elton John's White Tie and Tiara Ball, one of which, a flamboyant peacock gown from his autumn/winter 2009/10 collection, was worn by Ivana Trump.
"Knowing the calibre of the people attending, the celebrities, the media that's going to cover it, especially when they see a massive piece that is known from your show, it's a very good visual identity for us," he says, clearly delighted.
But when I speak to al Ali in Dubai, a couple of days before he leaves for Rome, celebrities and PR are taking second place to bringing together the Persian Princess collection that he will show in the hope of attracting more couture clients.
His 40-strong team (which includes master cutters, tailors, finishers, quality controllers, embroiderers, sample makers and beaders) is frantically finishing the collection ahead of the journey.
"The last week is the most horrible week for me, and it's actually the most fun week," he says, "because in this week we try to finish everything and it is the time where I start connecting all the dots together, so when I find something not really relevant, that I don't feel is really helping the theme of the collection, I try to eliminate it. The work this week is going to be very dense and very hectic."
That work is only just beginning: when he arrives in Rome he will have to cast the models, do the fittings, meet the production company, organise the choreography. The show itself will fly by in a flurry of hair, make-up, pins and fashion tape, and then begin the meetings with buyers, stylists, costume designers and media.
It's hard work, but for al Ali it's worth it.
"From the second collection [in Rome] we started having enquiries from Russia, from Brazil, from the States, and lots of enquiries for red-carpet events. There are not a lot of couture clients in the world and when you show internationally it's easy to be noticed. That's the good thing about showing in Rome or in Paris. It's a very strong presence, because you're not competing with so many worldwide."
But why, when other designers are flocking to be recognised by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, is Al Ali showing in Rome? "Rome is closer to the Middle East when it comes to style and fashion and taste, and for a long time the Alta Roma was closer to the Middle East in design and more exposed to the media here, and at the same time it was easier to show first where you feel that you shared some elements," he says. "Both countries have a lot of sun, and they work almost with the same body figures and features, so it's easier for them to understand what you produce before you go somewhere else."
Of course, al Ali already has a devoted following here in the UAE. "Luckily, in the Gulf region the couture market is still flourishing, and clients still buy couture for their main occasions, so that's why you find most of the Middle Eastern designers focus on the Gulf region."
The designer's regular customers get the full couture experience, something that those of us accustomed to prêt-à-porter (an area al Ali is dipping his toes into for the international market) can only dream of.
"We have our regular clients and of course every new collection we add to them, thank goodness. We always build their own mannequin, with their own figures, so when they come back they still have their fitting ready for them.
"For the new customers, we adjust a new mannequin for them until it fits the right size. Then we meet a couple of times before we proceed with the dress just to know exactly what's suitable for the client, what's the occasion, what she wants to look like, if there's jewellery or anything to be added to the dress.
"And when we decide on which design the client wants to pick we see if there is any amendment to make it more suitable for the client, if there is any change of detail or colour, and then we proceed with the sample-making, with the first stitching, and once everything is approved and the client is comfortable with it then we proceed to the final stage of delivering the dress."
These are gowns that come in at between Dh23,100 and Dh92,500, in contrast to his prêt-à-porter line, which costs about Dh3,700 to Dh14,800. Why, then, continue with the prohibitively priced couture?
"The prêt line is easier to market, you can buy it off the rack, it's simpler, therefore the cost is less, so the price tag is less," explains al Ali. "The couture line is very exclusive, it's one piece for one client, it's made to measure, all hand-made, and all precious materials and limited edition fabrics, therefore the cost of it is quite high. That's why we're trying to balance by having both lines.
"The daywear we are still working on. When we talk about jackets and sportswear and jeans and pants, we don't have a big demand for it yet."
What al Ali does have a big demand for is feminine, glamorous, embellished evening frocks, and that looks set to continue. This season's collection is inspired by Persian carpets, he says. "The detailing, the colours, the ornament, the weaving of the silk and wool, this mixture, the richness, that's the core of the inspiration.
"There are a lot of patterns. We were trying to recreate the fabric from crystals on some dresses, and on some others we took antique carpet designs and we printed it on a special fabric for this collection."
This is Al ali at his best, pursuing a quintessentially Dubaian design vision that he describes as "a blend between east and west, very feminine and very soft, very romantic. It's not harsh, it's not sharp, it's not so heavy that you feel that you had enough from the first five minutes that you saw it - no, you want to see more of it."
We'll be seeing a lot more of it, if all goes to plan in Rome.
Which honey takes your fancy?
Al Ghaf Honey
The Al Ghaf tree is a local desert tree which bears the harsh summers with drought and high temperatures. From the rich flowers, bees that pollinate this tree can produce delicious red colour honey in June and July each year
Sidr Honey
The Sidr tree is an evergreen tree with long and strong forked branches. The blossom from this tree is called Yabyab, which provides rich food for bees to produce honey in October and November. This honey is the most expensive, but tastiest
Samar Honey
The Samar tree trunk, leaves and blossom contains Barm which is the secret of healing. You can enjoy the best types of honey from this tree every year in May and June. It is an historical witness to the life of the Emirati nation which represents the harsh desert and mountain environments
'The Batman'
Stars:Robert Pattinson
Director:Matt Reeves
Rating: 5/5
How Beautiful this world is!
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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The Bio
Ram Buxani earned a salary of 125 rupees per month in 1959
Indian currency was then legal tender in the Trucial States.
He received the wages plus food, accommodation, a haircut and cinema ticket twice a month and actuals for shaving and laundry expenses
Buxani followed in his father’s footsteps when he applied for a job overseas
His father Jivat Ram worked in general merchandize store in Gibraltar and the Canary Islands in the early 1930s
Buxani grew the UAE business over several sectors from retail to financial services but is attached to the original textile business
He talks in detail about natural fibres, the texture of cloth, mirrorwork and embroidery
Buxani lives by a simple philosophy – do good to all
Safety 'top priority' for rival hyperloop company
The chief operating officer of Hyperloop Transportation Technologies, Andres de Leon, said his company's hyperloop technology is “ready” and safe.
He said the company prioritised safety throughout its development and, last year, Munich Re, one of the world's largest reinsurance companies, announced it was ready to insure their technology.
“Our levitation, propulsion, and vacuum technology have all been developed [...] over several decades and have been deployed and tested at full scale,” he said in a statement to The National.
“Only once the system has been certified and approved will it move people,” he said.
HyperloopTT has begun designing and engineering processes for its Abu Dhabi projects and hopes to break ground soon.
With no delivery date yet announced, Mr de Leon said timelines had to be considered carefully, as government approval, permits, and regulations could create necessary delays.
COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
The more serious side of specialty coffee
While the taste of beans and freshness of roast is paramount to the specialty coffee scene, so is sustainability and workers’ rights.
The bulk of genuine specialty coffee companies aim to improve on these elements in every stage of production via direct relationships with farmers. For instance, Mokha 1450 on Al Wasl Road strives to work predominantly with women-owned and -operated coffee organisations, including female farmers in the Sabree mountains of Yemen.
Because, as the boutique’s owner, Garfield Kerr, points out: “women represent over 90 per cent of the coffee value chain, but are woefully underrepresented in less than 10 per cent of ownership and management throughout the global coffee industry.”
One of the UAE’s largest suppliers of green (meaning not-yet-roasted) beans, Raw Coffee, is a founding member of the Partnership of Gender Equity, which aims to empower female coffee farmers and harvesters.
Also, globally, many companies have found the perfect way to recycle old coffee grounds: they create the perfect fertile soil in which to grow mushrooms.
Electoral College Victory
Trump has so far secured 295 Electoral College votes, according to the Associated Press, exceeding the 270 needed to win. Only Nevada and Arizona remain to be called, and both swing states are leaning Republican. Trump swept all five remaining swing states, North Carolina, Georgia, Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin, sealing his path to victory and giving him a strong mandate.
Popular Vote Tally
The count is ongoing, but Trump currently leads with nearly 51 per cent of the popular vote to Harris’s 47.6 per cent. Trump has over 72.2 million votes, while Harris trails with approximately 67.4 million.
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Company%20Profile
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Disclaimer
Director: Alfonso Cuaron
Stars: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Kline, Lesley Manville
Rating: 4/5
Nayanthara: Beyond The Fairy Tale
Starring: Nayanthara, Vignesh Shivan, Radhika Sarathkumar, Nagarjuna Akkineni
Director: Amith Krishnan
Rating: 3.5/5
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The specs
Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now
Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
Business Insights
- Canada and Mexico are significant energy suppliers to the US, providing the majority of oil and natural gas imports
- The introduction of tariffs could hinder the US's clean energy initiatives by raising input costs for materials like nickel
- US domestic suppliers might benefit from higher prices, but overall oil consumption is expected to decrease due to elevated costs
10 tips for entry-level job seekers
- Have an up-to-date, professional LinkedIn profile. If you don’t have a LinkedIn account, set one up today. Avoid poor-quality profile pictures with distracting backgrounds. Include a professional summary and begin to grow your network.
- Keep track of the job trends in your sector through the news. Apply for job alerts at your dream organisations and the types of jobs you want – LinkedIn uses AI to share similar relevant jobs based on your selections.
- Double check that you’ve highlighted relevant skills on your resume and LinkedIn profile.
- For most entry-level jobs, your resume will first be filtered by an applicant tracking system for keywords. Look closely at the description of the job you are applying for and mirror the language as much as possible (while being honest and accurate about your skills and experience).
- Keep your CV professional and in a simple format – make sure you tailor your cover letter and application to the company and role.
- Go online and look for details on job specifications for your target position. Make a list of skills required and set yourself some learning goals to tick off all the necessary skills one by one.
- Don’t be afraid to reach outside your immediate friends and family to other acquaintances and let them know you are looking for new opportunities.
- Make sure you’ve set your LinkedIn profile to signal that you are “open to opportunities”. Also be sure to use LinkedIn to search for people who are still actively hiring by searching for those that have the headline “I’m hiring” or “We’re hiring” in their profile.
- Prepare for online interviews using mock interview tools. Even before landing interviews, it can be useful to start practising.
- Be professional and patient. Always be professional with whoever you are interacting with throughout your search process, this will be remembered. You need to be patient, dedicated and not give up on your search. Candidates need to make sure they are following up appropriately for roles they have applied.
Arda Atalay, head of Mena private sector at LinkedIn Talent Solutions, Rudy Bier, managing partner of Kinetic Business Solutions and Ben Kinerman Daltrey, co-founder of KinFitz
Points to remember
- Debate the issue, don't attack the person
- Build the relationship and dialogue by seeking to find common ground
- Express passion for the issue but be aware of when you're losing control or when there's anger. If there is, pause and take some time out.
- Listen actively without interrupting
- Avoid assumptions, seek understanding, ask questions
Company%20Profile
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
pakistan Test squad
Azhar Ali (capt), Shan Masood, Abid Ali, Imam-ul-Haq, Asad Shafiq, Babar Azam, Fawad Alam, Haris Sohail, Imran Khan, Kashif Bhatti, Mohammad Rizwan (wk), Naseem Shah, Shaheen Shah Afridi, Mohammad Abbas, Yasir Shah, Usman Shinwari
From Zero
Artist: Linkin Park
Label: Warner Records
Number of tracks: 11
Rating: 4/5
Basquiat in Abu Dhabi
One of Basquiat’s paintings, the vibrant Cabra (1981–82), now hangs in Louvre Abu Dhabi temporarily, on loan from the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi.
The latter museum is not open physically, but has assembled a collection and puts together a series of events called Talking Art, such as this discussion, moderated by writer Chaedria LaBouvier.
It's something of a Basquiat season in Abu Dhabi at the moment. Last week, The Radiant Child, a documentary on Basquiat was shown at Manarat Al Saadiyat, and tonight (April 18) the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi is throwing the re-creation of a party tonight, of the legendary Canal Zone party thrown in 1979, which epitomised the collaborative scene of the time. It was at Canal Zone that Basquiat met prominent members of the art world and moved from unknown graffiti artist into someone in the spotlight.
“We’ve invited local resident arists, we’ll have spray cans at the ready,” says curator Maisa Al Qassemi of the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi.
Guggenheim Abu Dhabi's Canal Zone Remix is at Manarat Al Saadiyat, Thursday April 18, from 8pm. Free entry to all. Basquiat's Cabra is on view at Louvre Abu Dhabi until October
'Midnights'
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