Cafes in downtown Beirut are enjoying a renaissance.
Cafes in downtown Beirut are enjoying a renaissance.

A city of great contrasts



Luxurious and low-key, quaint, sophisticated and stubbornly provincial, Beirut is a city of wild contradictions and criss-crossing influences. It balances a languid, sun-kissed Mediterranean lifestyle with the punishing pace of a hyper-capitalist city that has endured a tragically tumultuous history. Destroyed by fire, earthquake and wars too numerous to name, Beirut always recovers, and does so in style. Its resilience has become intrinsic to its appeal.

A visit to the National Museum, first completed in 1937 and beautifully renovated in 1997, offers a quick study in Lebanon's history. The artefacts on view date from the Bronze and Iron ages; the Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods; and the years of Arab conquest up through the Mameluke era. Highlights include a marble sarcophagus illustrating the legend of Achilles. Political instability hasn't slowed development in Beirut, such that to wander around the city today is an endless exercise in what was and what will be. One thing that hasn't changed since the go-go days of the 1960s, however, is the Sporting Club, a concrete beach of consummate charm that juts out into the sea from Ras Beirut.

But to truly experience the here and now, head to the cafes of Hamra Street, which are enjoying a renaissance, or to the restaurants of the city centre, which are again buzzing with activity, or to the clutch of cute nightlife joints that have multiplied all the way down the main drag of Gemmayzeh and into Mar Mikhael. Drop in on Beirut's rigorously contemporary art scene along the way, or simply follow the sounds of the city's many live music venues, which range from traditional tarab to experimental jazz and the steady thump of techno.

Luxury Situated in the upscale neighbourhood that is clustered around Abdel Wahab al-Inglizi Street in Achrafieh, the Hotel Albergo offers 33 elegant, individually designed suites detailed with Bohemian crystal chandeliers, Briare porcelain, Carrare marble and antique furniture. Guests can choose from the Oriental, Mediterranean, Colonial and European rooms, or go all out for the presidential or royal suites. The Albergo's rooftop terrace - a verdant, jasmine-scented reprieve from the chaotic urban density below - boasts a casual restaurant, a swimming pool and 360-degree views of the Beirut skyline. The more formal and stately Al Dente, located on the ground floor, serves exquisite Italian cuisine and invites Michelin-starred chefs to create new tasting menus for travellers and neighbourhood diners alike. Standard suites begin at Dh1,032 per night, including tax and breakfast. (+961 1 339 797, @email:www.albergobeirut.com)

Mid-range The ultra-modern Monroe Hotel overlooks the marina in the heart of Downtown Beirut's hotel district, with the iconic Phoenicia, St Georges and Holiday Inn on one side and the new Platinum and Marina Towers on the other. More sleek and Scandinavian in style than opulent or oriental, the Monroe includes 49 rooms and suites, three restaurants, an outdoor swimming pool, a beauty salon and a spa. Standard rooms begin at Dh496 per night. (+961 1 371 122, @email:www.monroebeirut.com)

Budget A favourite among visiting artists, writers, foreign correspondents, humanitarian aid workers and travellers who value a down-to-earth stay over exuberant ostentation, the Mayflower Hotel is a long-standing local favourite, with 85 rooms. It recently celebrated its 50th anniversary, which makes it ancient by Beiruti standards, and its fabled history includes giving shelter to the writer Graham Greene, the notorious spy Kim Philby and the formula one champion Graham Hill, all of whom have suites named for them now. Situated in the middle of the cosmopolitan Hamra Street district, the Mayflower offers few frills but can't be beat for location. Single rooms begin at Dh294 per night, not including tax. (+961 340 680, @email:www.mayflowerbeirut.com)

Back in the 1960s, politicians used the spill out of late-night parliament sessions to dine with the luminaries of Lebanese arts and letters at the restaurant Al Ajami in downtown Beirut. Al Ajami opened in Souq al-Tawile in 1920, and, after the neighbourhood was levelled by years of civil war and reconstruction, decamped to Ramlet al-Baida in 1998. The new location may be sleepy compared to Al Ajami's raucous heyday, but one thing that remains the same is the food, an expansive and delectable selection of mezze, meats and sweets that carry Lebanon's long and intricate culinary history in every dish.

In Beirut, the fiercest of epicures seek out Levantine twists on the delicacies of Armenian cuisine. The restaurants Al Mayass, in Achrafieh, and Mayrig, in Gemmayzeh, are the most famous. But the most authentic is the closet-sized Varouj, tucked into an alleyway in Bourj Hammoud. Prepare for a marathon feast and make sure you try the soujouk, batrakh dressed in garlic, spiced kafta drenched in red cherries and, if you can handle it, asafeer (small roasted birds that you pop into your mouth and crunch).

For outdoor dining, head to the gardenia- and jasmine-edged garden at Centrale. The menu is refreshed every season, and the summer selections include a succulent lobster salad with coriander and ginger. The restaurant Casablanca, on the upper floor of an old Ottoman villa in Ain al-Mreisseh, is Beirut's best-kept dining secret, with a long list of loyal regulars who make reservations a requirement. The menu mixes a little of east with a little bit of west, the kitchen benefits tremendously from the owner Johnny Farah's organic farm, and the daily specials are to die for.

Middle East Airlines (MEA), Etihad, and Emirates daily to Beirut from Abu Dhabi and Dubai.

UAE Team Emirates

Valerio Conti (ITA)
Alessandro Covi (ITA)
Joe Dombrowski (USA)
Davide Formolo (ITA)
Fernando Gaviria (COL)
Sebastian Molano (COL)
Maximiliano Richeze (ARG)
Diego Ulissi (ITAS)

Indoor cricket World Cup:
Insportz, Dubai, September 16-23

UAE fixtures:
Men

Saturday, September 16 – 1.45pm, v New Zealand
Sunday, September 17 – 10.30am, v Australia; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Monday, September 18 – 2pm, v England; 7.15pm, v India
Tuesday, September 19 – 12.15pm, v Singapore; 5.30pm, v Sri Lanka
Thursday, September 21 – 2pm v Malaysia
Friday, September 22 – 3.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 3pm, grand final

Women
Saturday, September 16 – 5.15pm, v Australia
Sunday, September 17 – 2pm, v South Africa; 7.15pm, v New Zealand
Monday, September 18 – 5.30pm, v England
Tuesday, September 19 – 10.30am, v New Zealand; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Thursday, September 21 – 12.15pm, v Australia
Friday, September 22 – 1.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 1pm, grand final

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
How to protect yourself when air quality drops

Install an air filter in your home.

Close your windows and turn on the AC.

Shower or bath after being outside.

Wear a face mask.

Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.

If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.

From Zero

Artist: Linkin Park

Label: Warner Records

Number of tracks: 11

Rating: 4/5

The specs

Engine: 2-litre 4-cylinder and 3.6-litre 6-cylinder

Power: 220 and 280 horsepower

Torque: 350 and 360Nm

Transmission: eight-speed automatic

Price: from Dh136,521 VAT and Dh166,464 VAT 

On sale: now

Company profile

Name: Infinite8

Based: Dubai

Launch year: 2017

Number of employees: 90

Sector: Online gaming industry

Funding: $1.2m from a UAE angel investor

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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Company%20Profile
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MATCH INFO

Juventus 1 (Dybala 45')

Lazio 3 (Alberto 16', Lulic 73', Cataldi 90 4')

Red card: Rodrigo Bentancur (Juventus)

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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Electoral College Victory

Trump has so far secured 295 Electoral College votes, according to the Associated Press, exceeding the 270 needed to win. Only Nevada and Arizona remain to be called, and both swing states are leaning Republican. Trump swept all five remaining swing states, North Carolina, Georgia, Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin, sealing his path to victory and giving him a strong mandate. 

 

Popular Vote Tally

The count is ongoing, but Trump currently leads with nearly 51 per cent of the popular vote to Harris’s 47.6 per cent. Trump has over 72.2 million votes, while Harris trails with approximately 67.4 million.

Results

Stage Two:

1. Mark Cavendish (GBR) QuickStep-AlphaVinyl 04:20:45

2. Jasper Philipsen (BEL) Alpecin-Fenix

3. Pascal Ackermann (GER) UAE Team Emirates

4. Olav Kooij (NED) Jumbo-Visma

5. Arnaud Demare (FRA) Groupama-FDJ

General Classification:

1. Jasper Philipsen (BEL) Alpecin-Fenix 09:03:03

2. Dmitry Strakhov (RUS) Gazprom-Rusvelo 00:00:04

3. Mark Cavendish (GBR) QuickStep-AlphaVinyl 00:00:06

4. Sam Bennett (IRL) Bora-Hansgrohe 00:00:10

5. Pascal Ackermann (GER) UAE Team Emirates 00:00:12

'Lost in Space'

Creators: Matt Sazama, Burk Sharpless, Irwin Allen

Stars: Molly Parker, Toby Stephens, Maxwell Jenkins

Rating: 4/5

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
 
Started: 2020
 
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
 
Based: Dubai, UAE
 
Sector: Entertainment 
 
Number of staff: 210 
 
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
BLACK%20ADAM
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Results

Catchweight 60kg: Mohammed Al Katheeri (UAE) beat Mostafa El Hamy (EGY) TKO round 3

Light Heavyweight: Ibrahim El Sawi (EGY) no contest Kevin Oumar (COM) Unintentional knee by Oumer

Catchweight 73kg:  Yazid Chouchane (ALG) beat Ahmad Al Boussairy (KUW) Unanimous decision

Featherweight: Faris Khaleel Asha (JOR) beat Yousef Al Housani (UAE) TKO in round 2 through foot injury

Welterweight: Omar Hussein (JOR) beat Yassin Najid (MAR); Split decision

Middleweight: Yousri Belgaroui (TUN) beat Sallah Eddine Dekhissi (MAR); Round-1 TKO

Lightweight: Abdullah Mohammed Ali Musalim (UAE) beat Medhat Hussein (EGY); Triangle choke submission

Welterweight: Abdulla Al Bousheiri (KUW) beat Sofiane Oudina (ALG); Triangle choke Round-1

Lightweight: Mohammad Yahya (UAE) beat Saleem Al Bakri (JOR); Unanimous decision

Bantamweight: Ali Taleb (IRQ) beat Nawras Abzakh (JOR); TKO round-2

Catchweight 63kg: Rany Saadeh (PAL) beat Abdel Ali Hariri (MAR); Unanimous decision

Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
Rating: 4/5
The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

Business Insights
  • Canada and Mexico are significant energy suppliers to the US, providing the majority of oil and natural gas imports
  • The introduction of tariffs could hinder the US's clean energy initiatives by raising input costs for materials like nickel
  • US domestic suppliers might benefit from higher prices, but overall oil consumption is expected to decrease due to elevated costs
Business Insights
  • As per the document, there are six filing options, including choosing to report on a realisation basis and transitional rules for pre-tax period gains or losses. 
  • SMEs with revenue below Dh3 million per annum can opt for transitional relief until 2026, treating them as having no taxable income. 
  • Larger entities have specific provisions for asset and liability movements, business restructuring, and handling foreign permanent establishments.
Champion%20v%20Champion%20(PFL%20v%20Bellator)
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RACE CARD

5pm: Wathba Stallions Cup – Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (Turf) 2,200m
5.30pm: Khor Al Baghal – Conditions (PA) Dh80,000 (T) 1,600m
6pm: Khor Faridah – Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 (T) 1,600m
6.30pm: Abu Dhabi Fillies Classic – Prestige (PA) Dh110,000 (T) 1,400m
7pm: Abu Dhabi Colts Classic – Prestige (PA) Dh110,000 (T) 1,400m
7.30pm: Khor Laffam – Handicap (TB) Dh80,000 (T) 2,200m

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$1,000 award for 1,000 days on madrasa portal

Daily cash awards of $1,000 dollars will sweeten the Madrasa e-learning project by tempting more pupils to an education portal to deepen their understanding of math and sciences.

School children are required to watch an educational video each day and answer a question related to it. They then enter into a raffle draw for the $1,000 prize.

“We are targeting everyone who wants to learn. This will be $1,000 for 1,000 days so there will be a winner every day for 1,000 days,” said Sara Al Nuaimi, project manager of the Madrasa e-learning platform that was launched on Tuesday by the Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, to reach Arab pupils from kindergarten to grade 12 with educational videos.  

“The objective of the Madrasa is to become the number one reference for all Arab students in the world. The 5,000 videos we have online is just the beginning, we have big ambitions. Today in the Arab world there are 50 million students. We want to reach everyone who is willing to learn.”

LEADERBOARD
%3Cp%3E-19%20T%20Fleetwood%20(Eng)%3B%20-18%20R%20McIlroy%20(NI)%2C%20T%20Lawrence%20(SA)%3B%20-16%20J%20Smith%3B%20-15%20F%20Molinari%20(Ita)%3B%20-14%20Z%20Lombard%20(SA)%2C%20S%20Crocker%20(US)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ESelected%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E-11%20A%20Meronk%20(Pol)%3B%20-10%20E%20Ferguson%20(Sco)%3B%20-8%20R%20Fox%20(NZ)%20-7%20L%20Donald%20(Eng)%3B%20-5%20T%20McKibbin%20(NI)%2C%20N%20Hoejgaard%20(Den)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
MATCH INFO

Uefa Champions League, last 16, first leg

Tottenham Hotspur v Borussia Dortmund, midnight (Thursday), BeIN Sports

If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.

When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.

How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
Citadel: Honey Bunny first episode

Directors: Raj & DK

Stars: Varun Dhawan, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Kashvi Majmundar, Kay Kay Menon

Rating: 4/5

The specs

Engine: 3-litre twin-turbo V6

Power: 400hp

Torque: 475Nm

Transmission: 9-speed automatic

Price: From Dh215,900

On sale: Now

'Worse than a prison sentence'

Marie Byrne, a counsellor who volunteers at the UAE government's mental health crisis helpline, said the ordeal the crew had been through would take time to overcome.

“It was worse than a prison sentence, where at least someone can deal with a set amount of time incarcerated," she said.

“They were living in perpetual mystery as to how their futures would pan out, and what that would be.

“Because of coronavirus, the world is very different now to the one they left, that will also have an impact.

“It will not fully register until they are on dry land. Some have not seen their young children grow up while others will have to rebuild relationships.

“It will be a challenge mentally, and to find other work to support their families as they have been out of circulation for so long. Hopefully they will get the care they need when they get home.”

New schools in Dubai
BORDERLANDS

Starring: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Hart, Jamie Lee Curtis

Director: Eli Roth

Rating: 0/5

Kanguva
Director: Siva
Stars: Suriya, Bobby Deol, Disha Patani, Yogi Babu, Redin Kingsley
Rating: 2/5
 
Disclaimer

Director: Alfonso Cuaron 

Stars: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Kline, Lesley Manville 

Rating: 4/5