<strong><span>The welcome</span></strong> <span>I arrive by car at the plush, water-feature-embellished entrance of this Autograph Collection hotel, the third in the city</span><span>. Valets are quick to enquire after my luggage. A computer fault foils an early check-in, but I am able to leave my suitcase</span><span>, and when I return, formalities are completed by a personable receptionist. Unfortunately, a mix-up means that I assume the porter who shows me to my room has my door card, but it </span><span>hasn't been issued to either of us.</span> <strong><span>The </span></strong><span><strong>neighbourhood</strong></span> <span>City Walk is one of the most pleasant low-rise developments in Dubai, and in the </span><span>early winter, it is a delight to stroll its streets. There are shops and cafes aplenty within a few steps of the hotel. It is only a short drive to Downtown Dubai and Sheikh Zayed Road, but far enough </span><span>from those hectic environs to feel almost entirely disconnected.</span> <strong><span>The room</span></strong> <span>My third-floor premium room has a view of the Burj Khalifa, albeit slightly obscured by construction work in Downtown Dubai. Other boons include a pineapple ornament filled with discount vouchers for the hotel's outlets, plus a comprehensive range of television channels</span><span>. A large overhanging floor lamp near the wardrobe is at a perfect height for smacking your head, something that I inevitably manage. The room is equipped with an especially comfortable king bed, an Illy coffee machine, a work desk subtly integrated into the room design, a large Lowry-meets-cartoon artwork above the bed depicting City Walk, and a tiny table with two-seater couch and upholstered chair. Bathroom highlights include a full tub and large separate rain shower.</span> <strong><span>The service</span></strong> <span>Attentive, charming and mostly intuitive – even the room-key drama doesn’t seem like a hassle, such is the swift and amiable resolution, while restaurant staff effortlessly slip into chatty conversations.</span> <strong><span>The scene</span></strong> <span>With 77 rooms, 11 suites and 68 apartments, La Ville is effectively split into two wings for guests and residents. The reception has a busy, slightly businesslike feel, with a steady stream of people using the lobby cafe for </span><span>meetings. Wi-Fi is free and connects</span><span> from rooms to restaurants and everywhere in-between. The low-rise design – there are only five floors – lends a distinctly European vibe</span><span>.</span> <strong>The food</strong> <span>There are three restaurants, plus the lobby cafe and rooftop pool bar LookUp. The most attractive is ground-floor gastro-grill Graze, which has a semi-open-air design that allows you to gaze onto the street during your meal. I dine alone after a friend cancels at short notice, but what could ordinarily be an awkward experience is rescued by some of the most attentive but well-judged service in Dubai. The highlight is some enjoyably tart ceviche (Dh65); Graze has the chops – and steaks – to be a worthy stand-alone dining destination. Breakfast is part-buffet, part-à la carte at Chival, which is next door to Graze. It also has a lovely terrace, on the interior courtyard of the hotel – a perfect place to consume fresh juices served in cute mini milk bottles and an asparagus-embellished poached-egg dish that takes its name from the restaurant. Sadly, largely thanks to its dinner-only opening times, I don’t get to experience the fare at the hotel’s bar/kitchen Grapeskin, which looks like it would make a nice lunch spot.</span> <strong><span>Loved</span></strong> <span>The low-rise atmosphere and Graze’s food and staff.</span> <strong><span>Hated</span></strong> <span>Check-in could have been smoother, but it turned out OK in the end. </span> <strong><span>The verdict</span></strong> <span>An escape from Dubai’s skyscrapers, but without travelling far from the city’s core.</span> <span>The bottom line</span> <span>Double rooms at <a href="http://www.livelaville.com">La Ville Hotel & Suites</a> cost from Dh1,400, including taxes.</span> _______________ <strong>Read more:</strong> _______________