After a tortuously long wait at immigration at Seattle’s international airport, I arrived in the city with just a few hours to spare before my “UnCruise” departure to south-east Alaska. Despite taking off from Dubai at 8.30 on a Friday morning, because of the time difference the 14-hour flight would arrive in time for a 5pm sail the same day. If ever the miracle of air travel were evident, it was here.
And while I wouldn't normally choose to cruise, the geography of south-east Alaska – a long narrow strip of land hanging by what looks like a thread to the state's main hulk, with most of it only accessible by boat – means water transport makes perfect sense. I had considered the Alaska State Ferry system or a shorter, one-week trip, the full scenic route through the entire, 1,600-kilometre Inside Passage was only possible in comfort on a 14-day trip. Plus it had the added bonus of not needing any connecting flight. I had been warned that the boat had no Wi-Fi, so made a quick trip to downtown Seattle to shop for a local data package to grasp what little internet access was possible. Armed with a new Seattle phone number, I made my way to the historic Fisherman's Terminal, where the Safari Explorer was waiting. A smart 44-metre long small ship capable of carrying 36 passengers, and I'm pleased to find that with only 12 booked on this trip, the number of crew members is about 1:1. We meet our guides for the week, Americans Jeremy and Sarah, and the on-board naturalist, Dr Caroline Fox, from British Columbia. All of the other passengers, or "UnCruisers", are American or British, and Caroline and I have the honour of being the youngest non-crew members on board.
Before I can even start unpacking in my cabin, we set off, passing weekend yacht cruisers as we transit through the Hiram M Chittenden Locks, which lower us into the Salish Sea.
We head north up Puget Sound and after a decadent dinner of panzanella salad, grilled black cod and black sesame tart at a leisurely cruising speed of less than 10 knots, I go to bed early, relieved at having the luxury of the same room for the next two weeks.
One benefit of being up for almost 48 hours is that I'm so tired jet lag is virtually overriddden. I wake up bright and early with sunrise over the Olympic Mountains, part of the wild Olympic Peninsula which juts out directly across the water from Seattle.
After breakfast we disembark at Port Angeles and are taken by minibus into the heart of Olympic National Park. We hike through giant, old-growth trees – temperate rainforest. From Lake Crescent we walk to some waterfalls, talking among ourselves, greeting fellow walkers and listening to Jeremy's excellent commentary. I inhale the air and marvel at the casual way in which Americans – in this case families and tech types packing their weekends – enjoy their spectacular backyards.
After a packed lunch on the lake we head back to the boat before setting off for the nearby San Juan Islands. Just before dinner, a humpback whale appears. We drop anchor at Stuart Island and, just in time for a perfect late-evening sunset, we head to shore for a fire and smores on the beach. We're the only ones there. Already, the mobile phone signals are waning and the UAE seems a very, very long way away.
____________________
Read more of the travel editor's thoughts:
A stay in the 'in-between' zone
Planning a trip to Alaska
Reverse culture shock in London
If you want peace, travel
____________________
The Brutalist
Director: Brady Corbet
Stars: Adrien Brody, Felicity Jones, Guy Pearce, Joe Alwyn
Rating: 3.5/5
The specs
Engine: 8.0-litre, quad-turbo 16-cylinder
Transmission: 7-speed auto
0-100kmh 2.3 seconds
0-200kmh 5.5 seconds
0-300kmh 11.6 seconds
Power: 1500hp
Torque: 1600Nm
Price: Dh13,400,000
On sale: now
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Revibe%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202022%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Hamza%20Iraqui%20and%20Abdessamad%20Ben%20Zakour%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Refurbished%20electronics%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunds%20raised%20so%20far%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%2410m%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFlat6Labs%2C%20Resonance%20and%20various%20others%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
John%20Wick%3A%20Chapter%204
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Chad%20Stahelski%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Keanu%20Reeves%2C%20Laurence%20Fishburne%2C%20George%20Georgiou%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E4%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
RESULTS
5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,400m, Winner SS Lamea, Saif Al Balushi (jockey), Ibrahim Al Hadhrami (trainer).
5.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 1,400m, Winner AF Makerah, Sean Kirrane, Ernst Oertel
6pm: Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 1,600m, Winner Maaly Al Reef, Brett Doyle, Abdallah Al Hammadi
6.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh90,000 1,600m, Winner AF Momtaz, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi
7pm: Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 2,200m, Winner Morjanah Al Reef, Brett Doyle, Abdallah Al Hammadi
7.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh100,000 2,200m, Winner Mudarrab, Jim Crowley, Erwan Charpy
The biog
Favourite book: Homegoing by Yaa Gyasi
Favourite holiday destination: Spain
Favourite film: Bohemian Rhapsody
Favourite place to visit in the UAE: The beach or Satwa
Children: Stepdaughter Tyler 27, daughter Quito 22 and son Dali 19
Dirham Stretcher tips for having a baby in the UAE
Selma Abdelhamid, the group's moderator, offers her guide to guide the cost of having a young family:
• Buy second hand stuff
They grow so fast. Don't get a second hand car seat though, unless you 100 per cent know it's not expired and hasn't been in an accident.
• Get a health card and vaccinate your child for free at government health centres
Ms Ma says she discovered this after spending thousands on vaccinations at private clinics.
• Join mum and baby coffee mornings provided by clinics, babysitting companies or nurseries.
Before joining baby classes ask for a free trial session. This way you will know if it's for you or not. You'll be surprised how great some classes are and how bad others are.
• Once baby is ready for solids, cook at home
Take the food with you in reusable pouches or jars. You'll save a fortune and you'll know exactly what you're feeding your child.
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Nayanthara: Beyond The Fairy Tale
Starring: Nayanthara, Vignesh Shivan, Radhika Sarathkumar, Nagarjuna Akkineni
Director: Amith Krishnan
Rating: 3.5/5
How Filipinos in the UAE invest
A recent survey of 10,000 Filipino expatriates in the UAE found that 82 per cent have plans to invest, primarily in property. This is significantly higher than the 2014 poll showing only two out of 10 Filipinos planned to invest.
Fifty-five percent said they plan to invest in property, according to the poll conducted by the New Perspective Media Group, organiser of the Philippine Property and Investment Exhibition. Acquiring a franchised business or starting up a small business was preferred by 25 per cent and 15 per cent said they will invest in mutual funds. The rest said they are keen to invest in insurance (3 per cent) and gold (2 per cent).
Of the 5,500 respondents who preferred property as their primary investment, 54 per cent said they plan to make the purchase within the next year. Manila was the top location, preferred by 53 per cent.
The specs
Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now
SERIE A FIXTURES
Friday (UAE kick-off times)
Sassuolo v Bologna (11.45pm)
Saturday
Brescia v Torino (6pm)
Inter Milan v Verona (9pm)
Napoli v Genoa (11.45pm)
Sunday
Cagliari v Verona (3.30pm)
Udinese v SPAL (6pm)
Sampdoria v Atalanta (6pm)
Lazio v Lecce (6pm)
Parma v Roma (9pm)
Juventus v Milan (11.45pm)
