The ancient bathhouses of Syria's second city Aleppo are filling up again — not because of a fad but as a result of power cuts that have made hot showers a luxury.
With their marble steam rooms, hexagonal fountains and distinctive domes, Aleppo's bathhouses have for centuries served as a social hub where men come together to wash, listen to music and even eat.
But shortages of water, fuel and electricity across Syria have also turned them into a refuge for those looking for a long, warm bath during the winter.
“We mainly rely on electricity to heat water at home, but the electricity is cut off most of the time,” said Mohammed Hariri from a crowded bathhouse where he had waited half an hour for his turn.
“Here, we take all the time we need showering,” the 31-year-old said.
In Hammam Al Qawwas, one of more than 50 traditional bathhouses in Aleppo's Old City, diesel fuel and firewood are used to power furnaces providing hot water and steam.
Under its arched dome, men swaddled in towels sit in one of many side rooms, some singing traditional Arabic tunes as they scoop hot water from stone basins.
In an adjoining area, masseurs use soap and loofahs to scrub clean clients lying flat on the marble floor, as coronavirus restrictions seem a world away.
Hariri said he used to visit Aleppo's bathhouses with his father and uncles as a child.
Now, he comes with his son — not to continue a tradition, but because the water at home is not enough for his family of five.
“At home you have to shower in five minutes, but at the bathhouse you can stay for five hours,” he said.
Many of the structures were severely damaged during several rounds of battles between regime forces and rebels. Only around 10 have reopened since Aleppo returned to full government control in 2016.
Sitting at the reception room inside Hammam Al Qawwas, Ammar Radwan fielded calls from clients looking to book an appointment. The 33-year-old, who inherited the 14th-century bathhouse from his grandfather, said he never thought business would bounce back.
“We reopened the hammam in 2017 after the battles in Aleppo ended, but we never expected to see such a turnout,” he said while updating a client register.
Jalal Al Helou, a 53-year-old father of three, is a regular customer. “I go to the bathhouse at least once a month for a good clean,” he said from inside a washing room.
Like most of Aleppo's residents, he usually has to make do with cold or lukewarm water at home.
Round-the-clock power cuts have reached 20 hours a day this year due to severe diesel shortages.
Mr Helou said he has sometimes had to resort to firewood instead of the electric water heater so his family can bathe. “Our priority is to provide (hot water) for the children,” he said.
The situation is the same for fellow bathhouse patron Nader Mashlah. “The last time I took a proper bath was two weeks ago,” the 58-year-old said after a scrub-down at the hammam.
At home, he said, “priority goes to the children, and if there is some hot water left, my bath is quick and unsatisfying".
A government employee and father of six, Mr Mashlah said he could afford few comforts in his own home. But in the bathhouse, he relaxed and smoked shisha across from a large fountain as other clients walked by.
“In the past, going to the bathhouse was mainly for entertainment,” he said. “Today, it has become a necessity at least once or twice a month.”
Haemoglobin disorders explained
Thalassaemia is part of a family of genetic conditions affecting the blood known as haemoglobin disorders.
Haemoglobin is a substance in the red blood cells that carries oxygen and a lack of it triggers anemia, leaving patients very weak, short of breath and pale.
The most severe type of the condition is typically inherited when both parents are carriers. Those patients often require regular blood transfusions - about 450 of the UAE's 2,000 thalassaemia patients - though frequent transfusions can lead to too much iron in the body and heart and liver problems.
The condition mainly affects people of Mediterranean, South Asian, South-East Asian and Middle Eastern origin. Saudi Arabia recorded 45,892 cases of carriers between 2004 and 2014.
A World Health Organisation study estimated that globally there are at least 950,000 'new carrier couples' every year and annually there are 1.33 million at-risk pregnancies.
Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
More Iraq election coverage:
How to apply for a drone permit
- Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
- Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
- Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
- Submit their request
What are the regulations?
- Fly it within visual line of sight
- Never over populated areas
- Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
- Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
- Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
- Should have a live feed of the drone flight
- Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
A little about CVRL
Founded in 1985 by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, the Central Veterinary Research Laboratory (CVRL) is a government diagnostic centre that provides testing and research facilities to the UAE and neighbouring countries.
One of its main goals is to provide permanent treatment solutions for veterinary related diseases.
The taxidermy centre was established 12 years ago and is headed by Dr Ulrich Wernery.
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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South Korea
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The Details
Article 15
Produced by: Carnival Cinemas, Zee Studios
Directed by: Anubhav Sinha
Starring: Ayushmann Khurrana, Kumud Mishra, Manoj Pahwa, Sayani Gupta, Zeeshan Ayyub
Our rating: 4/5
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
Juventus v Napoli, Sunday, 10.45pm (UAE)
Match on Bein Sports
A list of the animal rescue organisations in the UAE
The specs: 2018 Jaguar F-Type Convertible
Price, base / as tested: Dh283,080 / Dh318,465
Engine: 2.0-litre inline four-cylinder
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 295hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque: 400Nm @ 1,500rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 7.2L / 100km
Liverpool's all-time goalscorers
Ian Rush 346
Roger Hunt 285
Mohamed Salah 250
Gordon Hodgson 241
Billy Liddell 228
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
