Lining one wall of the juice bar are photos of every Iraqi leader of the past 100 years. They include posed portraits of regal kings, business-suited presidents and men in military uniform.
But one picture in particular catches my eye. Haji Mohammad Abdel Ghafour, owner of the juice bar, follows my gaze and chuckles. “They all came here to try our juice,” he says. “Even Saddam Hussein. Today in Iraq it is illegal to display pictures of Hussein, but the history of this cafe, and what it means to the city, means we are given an exception.”
For more than 120 years, Ghahfour tells me, the recipe of the dark and sweet raisin juice that has made Haji Zbala Juice famous across Baghdad has been a zealously guarded secret. “It has passed through my family, from generation to generation,” he says. “People come here from across Baghdad and all over Iraq to try our juice.”
Haji Zbala Juice is so famous, Ghafour says, that it has a saying linking it to the well-being of the city. It goes: "If there's juice to be had, then al-Rashid Street is alive and Baghdad is alive."
I’ll admit that Baghdad was not the first place I had considered for a city break. But then I stumbled upon a photo of an elderly man sitting with friends in a dimly lit cafe. They were drinking small glasses of black tea while engrossed in a game of chess. The scene intrigued me. When I discovered that Baghdad has many such premises, I booked my trip.
It is not the city I imagined, one that has featured in many news reports I've seen over many years. It has an enduring love affair with cafes. It’s believed that the first – Khan Jahan – opened its doors in 1590. Although it has long since ceased to exist, it didn’t take long for cafes to become an integral part of the city's cultural and social fabric.
Cafes were – and still are – places where people of all backgrounds could meet and mingle without social or religious restrictions. Some Baghdad cafes became especially popular with free thinkers, writers, scientists, artists and revolutionaries. Cafe culture reached a peak during the first half of the 20th century. That's when al-Rashid Street, which is lined by Ottoman-era archways, became the cultural heartbeat of the city.
But the good times did not last. Political upheaval, civil strife and war turned al-Rashid Street into a shadow of its former self. As Baghdad was torn apart, cafes that had once hosted poets and chess players began to close their doors. But a few held on. Today, as Baghdad looks to a brighter future, historic cafes of the old city are enticing a new generation.
De Rose, in Karada district, is one of the new wave of bright, modern and colourful cafes that are popular with young Iraqis of both sexes. It's notable for an old-fashioned British phone box filled with roses.
Old versus new
It was perhaps inevitable that Jaafar, who I meet in Haj Naim Cafe, would become a part-owner of the venue. He is a history journalist with a passion for Baghdad’s historic cafes. “I first came to the Haj Najim Cafe in 1969 and it became a part of my life until eventually I became a part-owner,” he explains.
Scanning the empty benches, he takes a sip of his tea. “When I was younger, this cafe was popular with powerful Baghdadi families and was always busy, but today old cafes like this are suffering and only have a handful of regular customers.”
Business partner and co-owner Hayder Najim adds: “Today there are a lot of new, more western-style cafes that young people prefer, so Baghdad’s historic cafes are dying out.”
Some of the older cafes are fighting back against the Insta-friendly generation springing up in newer neighbourhoods. Umm Kulthum Cafe, for example, is a shrine to the legendary Egyptian singer and actress. Her image adorns every available wall space and her music plays on a loop.
But nobody was paying her music much attention during my visit. All eyes were focused instead on chess boards that are attracting a new generation to Baghdad’s old cafes. A tournament is held in this one every Friday: “It’s open to anyone, but the standard is good,” explains one fan. “The tournament attracts a lot of people, but most come just to watch.”
Further down the street is Ghazi Alturathi Cafe. A relative newcomer, it only dates to the 1970s, but is decorated in an attractive period manner. Here there are no chess games in sight. Instead an eclectic audience – men and women of varying ages – were clapping hands and tapping feet in time to a band belting out old Iraqi classics. The owner, who asked not to be named, told me that bands are invited for jam sessions each week to keep the cafe busy.
Dating back to 1917, Shabandar Cafe has seen it all, from good times to bad. It was here that the first protests against British colonial rule were planned. The walls are covered in pictures of recent Iraqi political and cultural personalities. When current owner Mohammed Al-Khashali took over in 1962, he took the unusual step of banning board games, dominoes and cards.
“I wanted it to be a place where people of culture could meet to talk or write without any distractions” he tells me. “It’s a cafe that represents the people of Baghdad.”
If cafes represent the people, then as long as they are filled with musicians, poets and chess players, Baghdad really is alive.
Classification of skills
A worker is categorised as skilled by the MOHRE based on nine levels given in the International Standard Classification of Occupations (ISCO) issued by the International Labour Organisation.
A skilled worker would be someone at a professional level (levels 1 – 5) which includes managers, professionals, technicians and associate professionals, clerical support workers, and service and sales workers.
The worker must also have an attested educational certificate higher than secondary or an equivalent certification, and earn a monthly salary of at least Dh4,000.
MATCH INFO
Mainz 0
RB Leipzig 5 (Werner 11', 48', 75', Poulsen 23', Sabitzer 36')
Man of the Match: Timo Werner (RB Leipzig)
Vidaamuyarchi
Director: Magizh Thirumeni
Stars: Ajith Kumar, Arjun Sarja, Trisha Krishnan, Regina Cassandra
Rating: 4/5
What vitamins do we know are beneficial for living in the UAE
Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.
Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.
Iron: Useful only when deficiency or anaemia is confirmed; helps reduce fatigue and support immunity.
Omega-3 (EPA/DHA): Supports heart health and reduces inflammation, especially for those who consume little fish.
GIANT REVIEW
Starring: Amir El-Masry, Pierce Brosnan
Director: Athale
Rating: 4/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Results:
5pm: Baynunah Conditions (UAE bred) Dh80,000 1,400m.
Winner: Al Tiryaq, Dane O’Neill (jockey), Abdullah Al Hammadi (trainer).
5.30pm: Al Zahra Handicap (rated 0-45) Dh 80,000 1,400m:
Winner: Fahadd, Richard Mullen, Ahmed Al Mehairbi.
6pm: Al Ras Al Akhdar Maiden Dh80,000 1,600m.
Winner: Jaahiz, Jesus Rosales, Eric Lemartinel.
6.30pm: Al Reem Island Handicap Dh90,000 1,600m.
Winner: AF Al Jahed, Antonio Fresu, Ernst Oertel.
7pm: Al Khubairah Handicap (TB) 100,000 2,200m.
Winner: Empoli, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
7.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap Dh80,000 2,200m.
Winner: Shivan OA, Patrick Cosgrave, Helal Al Alawi.
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Tearful appearance
Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday.
Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow.
She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.
A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.
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German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
Who has lived at The Bishops Avenue?
- George Sainsbury of the supermarket dynasty, sugar magnate William Park Lyle and actress Dame Gracie Fields were residents in the 1930s when the street was only known as ‘Millionaires’ Row’.
- Then came the international super rich, including the last king of Greece, Constantine II, the Sultan of Brunei and Indian steel magnate Lakshmi Mittal who was at one point ranked the third richest person in the world.
- Turkish tycoon Halis Torprak sold his mansion for £50m in 2008 after spending just two days there. The House of Saud sold 10 properties on the road in 2013 for almost £80m.
- Other residents have included Iraqi businessman Nemir Kirdar, singer Ariana Grande, holiday camp impresario Sir Billy Butlin, businessman Asil Nadir, Paul McCartney’s former wife Heather Mills.
Hunting park to luxury living
- Land was originally the Bishop of London's hunting park, hence the name
- The road was laid out in the mid 19th Century, meandering through woodland and farmland
- Its earliest houses at the turn of the 20th Century were substantial detached properties with extensive grounds
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Greatest of All Time
Starring: Vijay, Sneha, Prashanth, Prabhu Deva, Mohan
PAST 10 BRITISH GRAND PRIX WINNERS
2016 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2015 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2014 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2013 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes-GP)
2012 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2011 - Fernando Alonso (Ferrari)
2010 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2009 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
2008 - Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
2007 - Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari)
Company profile
Name: Back to Games and Boardgame Space
Started: Back to Games (2015); Boardgame Space (Mark Azzam became co-founder in 2017)
Founder: Back to Games (Mr Azzam); Boardgame Space (Mr Azzam and Feras Al Bastaki)
Based: Dubai and Abu Dhabi
Industry: Back to Games (retail); Boardgame Space (wholesale and distribution)
Funding: Back to Games: self-funded by Mr Azzam with Dh1.3 million; Mr Azzam invested Dh250,000 in Boardgame Space
Growth: Back to Games: from 300 products in 2015 to 7,000 in 2019; Boardgame Space: from 34 games in 2017 to 3,500 in 2019
How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
A list of the animal rescue organisations in the UAE
RESULT
Chelsea 2
Willian 13'
Ross Barkley 64'
Liverpool 0
GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
MEFCC information
Tickets range from Dh110 for an advance single-day pass to Dh300 for a weekend pass at the door. VIP tickets have sold out. Visit www.mefcc.com to purchase tickets in advance.
Who was Alfred Nobel?
The Nobel Prize was created by wealthy Swedish chemist and entrepreneur Alfred Nobel.
- In his will he dictated that the bulk of his estate should be used to fund "prizes to those who, during the preceding year, have conferred the greatest benefit to humankind".
- Nobel is best known as the inventor of dynamite, but also wrote poetry and drama and could speak Russian, French, English and German by the age of 17. The five original prize categories reflect the interests closest to his heart.
- Nobel died in 1896 but it took until 1901, following a legal battle over his will, before the first prizes were awarded.
