Chic Nonna review: Flavours of Italy fabulously reimagined

If the word "nonna" conjures up images of old, endearing Italian grandmas who serve up well-meaning plates of stodgy goodness, you will reconsider your definition on entering the bustling Italian restaurant Chic Nonna, which opened at DIFC Gate Avenue in August. Brought to Dubai by the Mine & Yours hospitality group , Chic Nonna’s culinary team is led by executive chef Vito Mollica and head chef Ilaria Zamperlin, who try to uphold and share Italian gastronomic traditions through improvement. Placed behind a conspicuous, huge green door, the stylish foyer manages to effectively conceal capacious floors. The contemporary Art Deco interiors are angular, crisp, timeless and welcoming. The two-storey gourmet osteria has abundant seating options, as founder Piero Giglio says the team wanted to recreate the atmosphere of South Italy’s lush mansions. With my mind occupied with thoughts of the wealthy Medicis, I am seated suitably before a beautiful open-plan kitchen. On the second storey is the “living room” or il salotto, with a crudo bar and views of Burj Khalifa. Guests can retreat here after dinner to further enjoy a languid evening listening to warm analogue sounds from the marble DJ booth. I begin my meal with the traditional focaccia de recco (Dh85). This warm flatbread is the opposite of the pillowy focaccia served at most places, with its thin unleavened dough enveloping salty crescenza cheese. The fire-blistered surface is topped with shaved truffle and makes for a delicious start. The tomato carpaccio (Dh60) reveals a colourful collection of thinly sliced heirloom tomatoes. The sweet and sour set is coupled with gazpacho dressing, confited datterini tomatoes and a bundle of buffalo figliata. It’s a sprightly and light vegetarian option. Next come the mazzancolla prawns (Dh125), a Sicilian caponata with poached San Marza prawns. One of the region's quintessential dishes, it features mixed vegetables. The flavours are marvellous and the caponata is a dance of acid and caramel sweetness, finessed with raisins, pine nuts and a pop of mint — all attributes of an Arabian influence. I notice the plates feature a delicate design with a border that’s the same British racing green colour that dominates the restaurant. I am informed with great pride these are hand-made by the house of Richard Ginori, which has been operating in Florence since 1735. On this porcelain perfection comes the vitello tonnato (Dh110), a sublime plate of thinly sliced veal covered in a decadent tuna-flavoured mayonnaise, topped with peppers stuffed with tuna, crowned with an anchovy and flanked by lilting quail eggs. This is pure indulgence, skilfully manoeuvred to combine tradition with novelty. Next, I try the pastas. In the duck plin ravioli al tovagliolo (Dh135), the ravioli charmingly come nestled in linen napkins, with a moist and moreish filling and delectable butter, sage and jus. The cavatelli dello chef (Dh210) is a refined cacio e pepe, the spaghetti dish, with tender baby squid and red prawns. The dish is gentler because of the addition of the seafood and every bite is coated in a silken sauce. Finally comes the quail and asparagus (Dh210), a roulade of quail stuffed with truffled liver page that, impressively, does not overwhelm the dish. The potato puree acts like a second sauce in a dish singing with flavour. The torta della nonna (Dh60) is a great dessert for sharing. A scrumptious short-crust pastry shell filled with warm vanilla custard, it is topped with a crumble and with pine nut praline within. These improvements create balance in an otherwise heavy dessert, finished at Chic Nonna with lemon accents and an intense vanilla ice cream. The tiramisu (Dh65), too, is memorable, with its smooth layer of coffee cremeux, saturated savoiardi biscuits and a mascarpone zabaglione set in fluffy clouds, speckled with dark chocolate crispearls and gold leaf. The veal tonnato is the dish I would return for. The sauce is rich and flavourful, adorned with sweet piquillo peppers, and the quail yolks add another buttery element. Chef Mollica is originally from Basilicata and has been living in Florence for the last 15 years. When Chic Nonna’s investors decided Dubai was the best city to set up a “lifestyle restaurant”, they brought Mollica on board. The chef describes his cooking style as simple, using techniques “not to overpower or overwork, but rather highlight the ingredient”. Accordingly, his favourite ingredient changes seasonally. “My favourite products are vegetables like asparagus, artichokes and chicory, mushrooms because they highlight the seasonal changes in flavour. “As chefs, we are ambassadors of our countries and our families. We have an opportunity to talk about our traditions with our food, and convey who we are and where we come from.” Other than the dishes I tried, the chef recommends the Sicilian Caponata minus the prawns for vegetarians; lasagne with venison ragu for meat lovers; and grilled Galician langoustine for pescatarians. The menu comprises starters and salads (Dh60-Dh125); pizza and rosticceria (Dh85-Dh190); pasta (Dh90-Dh270); and mains (Dh155-Dh300). Desserts are between Dh60 and Dh65 each. Chic Nonna is in Dubai International Financial Centre, and is open noon-3pm and 7pm-3am. Tables can be booked by contacting 04 605 2000 or reservations@chicnonna.com . This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant

Chic Nonna review: Flavours of Italy fabulously reimagined

Set in a space that resembles a lush Italian mansion, the restaurant serves premium ingredients cooked simply