CAIRO // From the street, Wahaban al Sayyid Mohammed looks much like any other Egyptian cafe-goer in the throes of a heated conversation about politics or sport. But get up close and you hear what Mr Mohammed is speaking passionately about: the best method for grilling lamb.
Here in the old Egyptian Chefs' Club, an ordinary-looking ahwa, or coffee shop, that sits amid the faded elegance of Cairo's bustling downtown, the lost art of cooking is discussed in unusually grave tones.
To speak with the cafe's elderly patrons is to hear of an older Cairo - when cuisine was a matter of prestige, the vegetables were fresh, the silver was polished and dinner was served promptly at three o'clock, or not at all.
Back then, it was not easy to become a chef. "The expert chefs could be counted on one hand," said Mr Mohammed, 58, who still works as a freelance chef but is quick to note that he once served "princes and pashas" and rubbed shoulders with the late, great chefs at the old Swiss-owned Semiramis Hotel, that has since been demolished. "The customers back then were first class. Not everyone could get into the Semiramis."
One major change to Egypt's culinary landscape is that illustrious families no longer hire their own personal chefs. In the years that preceded and followed the Egyptian Revolution in 1952, Cairo's great and good preferred to dine at home, as eating out meant venturing among the unwashed masses.
In those days, a man did not just make molokhiya, Egypt's signature mallow soup. Molokhiyya made a man - and the Egyptian Chefs' Club was his calling card. After the ahwa was founded in 1934, chefs who frequented it pooled their money to install a telephone line - a rare feature for a street-side cafe at the time.
"The prestigious families wouldn't eat outside. They would only eat at home and brag about their chefs. Or they would eat at the homes of other prestigious families," said Ahmed Suleiman, who has owned the cafe for 12 years. "Back then, there were no business cards, so when a family decided they liked a chef, the chef gave them the number to this place and the family would call."
Those families, said Mr Moussa, also owned the majority of Egypt's farms and ranches, from where fresh meat and vegetables were readily available. Egyptians ate small, brown baladi (local) chickens and tiny brown eggs that looked nothing like their modern, bloated cousins. Now, Egypt's wheat is imported from Russia, its meat comes from Brazil and ghee is mass-produced in Asian factories, said Sabr Moussa, a chef and club regular.
The prestige that once came with having the finest kitchen help has been eclipsed, said Mr Moussa, 50, by the value of brand names. International fast food chains like McDonald's or Pizza Hut are popular in Egypt, but their high cost, compared to an average monthly salary of about US$40 (Dh147), lends them a see-and-be-seen cachet.
It is easy to dismiss such talk as back-in-my-day romanticism. But in the decades since Egypt opened up to overseas tourists, and subsequently fast food chains and foreign cuisine from as far afield as India and Thailand, the chefs who were once the arbiters of culinary excellence say they now must compete with young pretenders with no real education or work experience.
Those upstarts come from new tourism academies, whose army of graduates staff the kitchens in the enormous hotel chains that fringe the Red Sea coast.
"After the rise of tourism and these institutes, they buried all these skilled professions," said Mr Moussa, who said he once worked as a chef in Cairo's Abdeen Palace when it was the official residence of Gamal Abdel Nasser, Egypt's president from 1956-70. "If you cut a piece of meat that isn't a fillet and give it to a graduate of a tourism institute, he will cook it like a fillet. They learn on maps, with arrows pointing to the different cuts. Is this a road map or what?"
The tourism institutes offer general, two-year degrees in tourism. So by the time they enter the employment field, today's Egyptian chefs may know nearly as much about leading a scuba expedition as they know about filleting fish, said Mirjam van IJssel, the executive director of the Egyptian Chefs Association.
"Egypt didn't keep up with the times. You know, they didn't produce their culinary schools before they started mass tourism. So now they're facing a big problem," said Ms van IJssel, who added that her organisation is working with the ministry of tourism to establish Egypt's first real culinary institute.
"Now you get people who go into the industry, and because of a lack of chefs and the huge growth in the number of hotels, someone goes into the industry, goes into the kitchen, and in two years he goes from a trainee to a sous chef."
Egypt, said Ms van IJssel, is filled with "left handed chefs" - industry jargon for the sort of faux professionals about whom Mr Moussa and Mr Mohammed complain at the Egyptian Chefs' Club.
"The profession has lost more than it gained," said Mr Mohammed. "It used to be that when a young chef did something wrong, he got a kick in the butt. The assistant respected the chef and the assistant was never even in the picture. It was always about the chef and it was all based on respect."
mbradley@thenational.ae
COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
Citadel: Honey Bunny first episode
Directors: Raj & DK
Stars: Varun Dhawan, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Kashvi Majmundar, Kay Kay Menon
Rating: 4/5
CRICKET%20WORLD%20CUP%20QUALIFIER%2C%20ZIMBABWE%20
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More on animal trafficking
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Milestones on the road to union
1970
October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar.
December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.
1971
March 1: Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.
July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.
July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.
August 6: The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.
August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.
September 3: Qatar becomes independent.
November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.
November 29: At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.
November 30: Despite a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa.
November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties
December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.
December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.
December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
A list of the animal rescue organisations in the UAE
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
Surianah's top five jazz artists
Billie Holliday: for the burn and also the way she told stories.
Thelonius Monk: for his earnestness.
Duke Ellington: for his edge and spirituality.
Louis Armstrong: his legacy is undeniable. He is considered as one of the most revolutionary and influential musicians.
Terence Blanchard: very political - a lot of jazz musicians are making protest music right now.
The biog
Profession: Senior sports presenter and producer
Marital status: Single
Favourite book: Al Nabi by Jibran Khalil Jibran
Favourite food: Italian and Lebanese food
Favourite football player: Cristiano Ronaldo
Languages: Arabic, French, English, Portuguese and some Spanish
Website: www.liliane-tannoury.com
FIXTURES (all times UAE)
Sunday
Brescia v Lazio (3.30pm)
SPAL v Verona (6pm)
Genoa v Sassuolo (9pm)
AS Roma v Torino (11.45pm)
Monday
Bologna v Fiorentina (3.30pm)
AC Milan v Sampdoria (6pm)
Juventus v Cagliari (6pm)
Atalanta v Parma (6pm)
Lecce v Udinese (9pm)
Napoli v Inter Milan (11.45pm)
The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
Other key dates
-
Finals draw: December 2
-
Finals (including semi-finals and third-placed game): June 5–9, 2019
-
Euro 2020 play-off draw: November 22, 2019
-
Euro 2020 play-offs: March 26–31, 2020
Kanguva
Director: Siva
Stars: Suriya, Bobby Deol, Disha Patani, Yogi Babu, Redin Kingsley
Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
The specs
Engine: Direct injection 4-cylinder 1.4-litre
Power: 150hp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: From Dh139,000
On sale: Now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The National in Davos
We are bringing you the inside story from the World Economic Forum's Annual Meeting in Davos, a gathering of hundreds of world leaders, top executives and billionaires.
One in nine do not have enough to eat
Created in 1961, the World Food Programme is pledged to fight hunger worldwide as well as providing emergency food assistance in a crisis.
One of the organisation’s goals is the Zero Hunger Pledge, adopted by the international community in 2015 as one of the 17 Sustainable Goals for Sustainable Development, to end world hunger by 2030.
The WFP, a branch of the United Nations, is funded by voluntary donations from governments, businesses and private donations.
Almost two thirds of its operations currently take place in conflict zones, where it is calculated that people are more than three times likely to suffer from malnutrition than in peaceful countries.
It is currently estimated that one in nine people globally do not have enough to eat.
On any one day, the WFP estimates that it has 5,000 lorries, 20 ships and 70 aircraft on the move.
Outside emergencies, the WFP provides school meals to up to 25 million children in 63 countries, while working with communities to improve nutrition. Where possible, it buys supplies from developing countries to cut down transport cost and boost local economies.
Electoral College Victory
Trump has so far secured 295 Electoral College votes, according to the Associated Press, exceeding the 270 needed to win. Only Nevada and Arizona remain to be called, and both swing states are leaning Republican. Trump swept all five remaining swing states, North Carolina, Georgia, Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin, sealing his path to victory and giving him a strong mandate.
Popular Vote Tally
The count is ongoing, but Trump currently leads with nearly 51 per cent of the popular vote to Harris’s 47.6 per cent. Trump has over 72.2 million votes, while Harris trails with approximately 67.4 million.
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
Disclaimer
Director: Alfonso Cuaron
Stars: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Kline, Lesley Manville
Rating: 4/5
Normal People
Sally Rooney, Faber & Faber
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Fly Etihad or Emirates from the UAE to Moscow from 2,763 return per person return including taxes.
Where to stay
Trips on the Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian cost from US$16,995 (Dh62,414) per person, based on two sharing.
THE SPECS
Engine: 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V12 petrol engine
Power: 420kW
Torque: 780Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh1,350,000
On sale: Available for preorder now
Company%20Profile
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Landfill in numbers
• Landfill gas is composed of 50 per cent methane
• Methane is 28 times more harmful than Co2 in terms of global warming
• 11 million total tonnes of waste are being generated annually in Abu Dhabi
• 18,000 tonnes per year of hazardous and medical waste is produced in Abu Dhabi emirate per year
• 20,000 litres of cooking oil produced in Abu Dhabi’s cafeterias and restaurants every day is thrown away
• 50 per cent of Abu Dhabi’s waste is from construction and demolition
The specs: Macan Turbo
Engine: Dual synchronous electric motors
Power: 639hp
Torque: 1,130Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Touring range: 591km
Price: From Dh412,500
On sale: Deliveries start in October
Quick pearls of wisdom
Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”
Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.”
La Mer lowdown
La Mer beach is open from 10am until midnight, daily, and is located in Jumeirah 1, well after Kite Beach. Some restaurants, like Cupagahwa, are open from 8am for breakfast; most others start at noon. At the time of writing, we noticed that signs for Vicolo, an Italian eatery, and Kaftan, a Turkish restaurant, indicated that these two restaurants will be open soon, most likely this month. Parking is available, as well as a Dh100 all-day valet option or a Dh50 valet service if you’re just stopping by for a few hours.
The Baghdad Clock
Shahad Al Rawi, Oneworld
THE APPRENTICE
Director: Ali Abbasi
Starring: Sebastian Stan, Maria Bakalova, Jeremy Strong
Rating: 3/5
COPA DEL REY
Semi-final, first leg
Barcelona 1 (Malcom 57')
Real Madrid (Vazquez 6')
Second leg, February 27
Business Insights
- As per the document, there are six filing options, including choosing to report on a realisation basis and transitional rules for pre-tax period gains or losses.
- SMEs with revenue below Dh3 million per annum can opt for transitional relief until 2026, treating them as having no taxable income.
- Larger entities have specific provisions for asset and liability movements, business restructuring, and handling foreign permanent establishments.
Joker: Folie a Deux
Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Lady Gaga, Brendan Gleeson
Director: Todd Phillips
Rating: 2/5
Scoreline:
Manchester City 1
Jesus 4'
Brighton 0
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
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