BAGHDAD // As recently as the 1970s, Baghdad was lauded as a model city in the Arab world.
Now, after decades of seemingly endless conflict, it is the world’s worst city.
That is, at least, according to the latest survey by the Mercer consulting group, which when assessing quality of life across 239 cities, measuring factors including political stability, crime and pollution, placed Baghdad last.
The Iraqi capital was lumped with Bangui in the conflict-hit Central African Republic and the Haitian capital Port-au-Prince, the latest confirmation of the 1,250-year-old city’s fall from grace as a global intellectual, economic and political centre.
Residents of Baghdad contend with near-daily militant attacks, a lack of electricity and clean water, poor sewerage and drainage systems, rampant corruption, regular gridlock, high unemployment and a myriad other problems.
“We live in a military barracks,” said Hamid Al Daraji, 48, a paper salesman, referring to the ubiquitous checkpoints, concrete blast walls and security forces peppered throughout the city.
“The rich and the poor share the same suffering,” he said. “The rich might be subjected at any moment to an explosion, a kidnapping, or a killing, just like the poor.
“Our lives are ones where we face death at any moment.”
It was not always so for the Iraqi capital.
Construction of the city on the Tigris River first began in 762AD during the rule of Abbasid caliph Abu Jaafar Al Mansur, and it has played a pivotal role in Arab and Islamic society ever since.
In the 20th century, Baghdad was held up as a gleaming example of a modern Arab city with some of the region’s best universities and museums, a highly educated elite, a vibrant cultural scene and top-notch health care.
Officials still note how their counterparts from the region would hold up Baghdad’s international airport as a model, and Opec was founded in the Iraqi capital.
And it was home to a diverse population of Muslims, Christians, Jews and others.
“Baghdad represented the economic centre of the Abbasid state,” said Issam Al Faili, a professor of political history at the city’s Mustansiriyah University, an institution which traces its own history back nearly 800 years.
“It was used as a base for taking control of neighbouring areas to strengthen Islamic influence.”
“It used to be a capital of the world,” Mr Al Faili said, “but today, it has become one of the world’s most miserable cities.”
In February alone, 57 violent incidents struck the Iraqi capital, including 31 car bombs.
As recently as March 5, a dozen shootings and bombings across the city killed 20 people. The very next day, four more bombings left 11 dead.
Security forces typically respond with heavy-handed tactics reliant on setting up new checkpoints to add to the plethora already scattered around Baghdad, and restricting movement as much as possible.
Massive concrete walls, designed to withstand the impact of explosions, still divide up confessionally mixed neighbourhoods, while the government sits in the heavily-fortified Green Zone, which is also home to parliament and the US and British embassies, access to which is difficult for ordinary Iraqis.
Some are working to clean up the city and beautify it, but even they acknowledge the uphill task facing them.
“I am actually hurt that Baghdad ranked among the worst cities in the world,” said Amir Al Chalabi, head of the Humanitarian Construction Organisation, an NGO which runs civic campaigns aimed at improving the city’s services.
“Successive governments have not worked to develop Baghdad,” he said.
“It has become deserted, and it suffers from instability. At night, it turns into a ghost town because of the lack of lighting.”
Messes of electrical wires run along neighbourhood streets, as privately operated communal generators work to make up for the shortfall in provision from the national grid.
Poor drainage means that even moderate levels of rainfall during the winter lead to flooding, as pools form on the city’s potholed streets, while scorching summer heat forces the government to regularly declare national holidays.
Economic growth nationwide is strong, thanks to healthy oil production, but because the industry is not labour-intensive, it has not made a major dent in unemployment, including in the capital.
“Baghdad’s problems cannot be counted,” said Mr Al Daraji, the paper seller.
“The situation in Baghdad is sad. Sometimes it makes us cry – beautiful Baghdad is today in ruins.”
* Agence France-Presse
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If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.
When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.
How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
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Price, base / as tested: Dh48,000
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Iqbal Restaurant behind Wendy’s on Hamdan Street for the chicken karahi (Dh14)
Pathemari in Navy Gate for prawn biryani (from Dh12 to Dh35)
Abu Al Nasar near Abu Dhabi Mall, for biryani (from Dh12 to Dh20)
Bonna Annee at Navy Gate for Ethiopian food (the Bonna Annee special costs Dh42 and comes with a mix of six house stews – key wet, minchet abesh, kekel, meser be sega, tibs fir fir and shiro).
Al Habasha in Tanker Mai for Ethiopian food (tibs, a hearty stew with meat, is a popular dish; here it costs Dh36.75 for lamb and beef versions)
Himalayan Restaurant in Mussaffa for Nepalese (the momos and chowmein noodles are best-selling items, and go for between Dh14 and Dh20)
Makalu in Mussaffa for Nepalese (get the chicken curry or chicken fry for Dh11)
Al Shaheen Cafeteria near Guardian Towers for a quick morning bite, especially the egg sandwich in paratha (Dh3.50)
Pinky Food Restaurant in Tanker Mai for tilapia
Tasty Zone for Nepalese-style noodles (Dh15)
Ibrahimi for Pakistani food (a quarter chicken tikka with roti costs Dh16)
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Engine: 3-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 400hp
Torque: 475Nm
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Countdown to Zero: Defeating Disease, an international multimedia exhibition created by the American Museum of National History in collaboration with The Carter Center, will open in Abu Dhabi a month before Reaching the Last Mile.
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Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
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- Golden circle - Dh995
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- Upper Bowl Premium - Dh395
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March 12-16: Second Test, Karachi
March 21-25: Third Test, Lahore
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April 2: Third ODI, Rawalpindi
April 5: T20I, Rawalpindi
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