On the banks of Kashmir’s Dal Lake, amid rows of waiting wooden shikari boats, rests what is believed to be the only floating post office in the world. Two-centuries old, the two-room houseboat moored near Nehru Park in Srinagar city serves not only the community living by the lake but also the curiosity of visiting tourists from all across the world.
The floating post office itself dates back to 1953, when the local postal department established a mobile delivery service for residents near the lake. Tourists would often come to stay in several of the community-owned houseboats.
At a time before the internet and mobile phone networks, the mobile postal service was a crucial lifeline, collecting letters and postcards and posting them to families back home.
The floating post office was officially opened in 1970 by an Indian minister of state and was renovated in 2011. Today, it has three full-time employees and is one of the 1,700 permanent post offices in Jammu and Kashmir.
“People living on the lake have been availing various postal and insurance schemes we provide here,” says Showkat Ahmad Rather, the office's sub-post master.
“And tourists from across India and all over the world who come to see the lake also visit,” he says. The visitors like to take pictures and post a special shikara-stamped postcard back home, he says.
“Whoever comes to see the lake also comes to see this unique post office,” says Rather, who has gone on to befriend several visitors and customers over the years.
The post office has featured in several Bollywood films and travel TV shows. Last year, a small museum space was added, exploring the culture of Kashmir. Alongside them is a set of old, framed postage stamps.
“The post office also provides a special postal seal with the image of the shikara boat that is stamped on all postcards,” says Ajay Pandita, an officer at the general post office in Srinagar city centre – where post from the floating office is taken at the end of each day for onward delivery.
Having served at the floating post office for four years, Rather says he finds it more fulfilling to work here than at any of his previous places of work. He and his colleagues often help illiterate local residents complete paperwork.
“I also take posts, parcels and fill out all the required forms for local people who come on their boats from this window, and not just from our front desk here,” he says with a smile, pointing at a window that opens out on to the lake. “And this may be the only post office in India where you can’t come inside wearing shoes.”
The floating post office boat was damaged during devastating floods in 2014, as the water level of Dal Lake rose. However, it was later returned to its rightful place and made functional after renovation.
However, on August 5, 2019, the ruling BJP government in New Delhi revoked the region's special status and downgraded the former state into two union territories – leading to back-to-back lockdowns and communication shutdowns, which dragged on throughout the Covid-19 pandemic.
Despite several lockdowns over the years, employees say they made sure that all the post was collected and delivered, even when mobile network and internet services were shut down for months on end.
“During the 2019 lockdown, we received mail in bulk and the volume of the post increased,” says Farooq Ahmed Khan, who has worked as a multitasking staff member in the floating post office for eight years. “We made sure it was delivered even when there was some delay due to the months-long communication shutdown.”
As he talks, an elderly woman takes her shoes off at the entrance of the houseboat and steps inside. After greeting to the two employees, she hands them some forms she needs help completing. She is asked to sit on a chair and wait.
“As she can’t read and write, I always fill out all her forms so that all her registered accounts here remain updated,” says Farooq.
“The local lake community is closely linked with this post office,” he says, as the lady thanks him. “They treat us like family.”
We Weren’t Supposed to Survive But We Did
We weren’t supposed to survive but we did.
We weren’t supposed to remember but we did.
We weren’t supposed to write but we did.
We weren’t supposed to fight but we did.
We weren’t supposed to organise but we did.
We weren’t supposed to rap but we did.
We weren’t supposed to find allies but we did.
We weren’t supposed to grow communities but we did.
We weren’t supposed to return but WE ARE.
Amira Sakalla
Results
5pm: Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 1,400m; Winner: Faiza, Sandro Paiva (jockey), Ali Rashid Al Raihe (trainer).
5.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh90,000 1,400m; Winner: Greeley, Connor Beasley, Helal Al Alawi.
6pm: Emirates Fillies Classic Prestige (PA) Dh100,000 1,600m; Winner: Marzaga, Jim Crowley, Ana Mendez.
6.30pm: Emirates Colts Classic Prestige (PA) Dh100,000 1,600m; Winner: Jawaal, Jim Crowley, Majed Al Jahouri.
7pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 1,600m; Winner: AF Ashras, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel.
7.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 2,200m; Winner: Somoud, Richard Mullen, Ahmed Al Mehairbi.
The specs
Engine: 1.4-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 180hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 250Nm at 3,00rpm
Transmission: 5-speed sequential auto
Price: From Dh139,995
On sale: now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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The biog
Occupation: Key marker and auto electrician
Hometown: Ghazala, Syria
Date of arrival in Abu Dhabi: May 15, 1978
Family: 11 siblings, a wife, three sons and one daughter
Favourite place in UAE: Abu Dhabi
Favourite hobby: I like to do a mix of things, like listening to poetry for example.
Favourite Syrian artist: Sabah Fakhri, a tenor from Aleppo
Favourite food: fresh fish
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Who are the Sacklers?
The Sackler family is a transatlantic dynasty that owns Purdue Pharma, which manufactures and markets OxyContin, one of the drugs at the centre of America's opioids crisis. The family is well known for their generous philanthropy towards the world's top cultural institutions, including Guggenheim Museum, the National Portrait Gallery, Tate in Britain, Yale University and the Serpentine Gallery, to name a few. Two branches of the family control Purdue Pharma.
Isaac Sackler and Sophie Greenberg were Jewish immigrants who arrived in New York before the First World War. They had three sons. The first, Arthur, died before OxyContin was invented. The second, Mortimer, who died aged 93 in 2010, was a former chief executive of Purdue Pharma. The third, Raymond, died aged 97 in 2017 and was also a former chief executive of Purdue Pharma.
It was Arthur, a psychiatrist and pharmaceutical marketeer, who started the family business dynasty. He and his brothers bought a small company called Purdue Frederick; among their first products were laxatives and prescription earwax remover.
Arthur's branch of the family has not been involved in Purdue for many years and his daughter, Elizabeth, has spoken out against it, saying the company's role in America's drugs crisis is "morally abhorrent".
The lawsuits that were brought by the attorneys general of New York and Massachussetts named eight Sacklers. This includes Kathe, Mortimer, Richard, Jonathan and Ilene Sackler Lefcourt, who are all the children of either Mortimer or Raymond. Then there's Theresa Sackler, who is Mortimer senior's widow; Beverly, Raymond's widow; and David Sackler, Raymond's grandson.
Members of the Sackler family are rarely seen in public.
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The Matrix Resurrections
Director: Lana Wachowski
Stars: Keanu Reeves, Carrie-Anne Moss, Jessica Henwick
Rating:****
MATCH INFO
Sheffield United 0 Wolves 2 (Jimenez 3', Saiss 6)
Man of the Match Romain Saiss (Wolves)
The five pillars of Islam
TO ALL THE BOYS: ALWAYS AND FOREVER
Directed by: Michael Fimognari
Starring: Lana Condor and Noah Centineo
Two stars
Qosty Byogaani
Starring: Hani Razmzi, Maya Nasir and Hassan Hosny
Four stars
Thanksgiving meals to try
World Cut Steakhouse, Habtoor Palace Hotel, Dubai. On Thursday evening, head chef Diego Solis will be serving a high-end sounding four-course meal that features chestnut veloute with smoked duck breast, turkey roulade accompanied by winter vegetables and foie gras and pecan pie, cranberry compote and popcorn ice cream.
Jones the Grocer, various locations across the UAE. Jones’s take-home holiday menu delivers on the favourites: whole roast turkeys, an array of accompaniments (duck fat roast potatoes, sausages wrapped in beef bacon, honey-glazed parsnips and carrots) and more, as well as festive food platters, canapes and both apple and pumpkin pies.
Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, The Address Hotel, Dubai. This New Orleans-style restaurant is keen to take the stress out of entertaining, so until December 25 you can order a full seasonal meal from its Takeaway Turkey Feast menu, which features turkey, homemade gravy and a selection of sides – think green beans with almond flakes, roasted Brussels sprouts, sweet potato casserole and bread stuffing – to pick up and eat at home.
The Mattar Farm Kitchen, Dubai. From now until Christmas, Hattem Mattar and his team will be producing game- changing smoked turkeys that you can enjoy at home over the festive period.
Nolu’s, The Galleria Mall, Maryah Island Abu Dhabi. With much of the menu focused on a California inspired “farm to table” approach (with Afghani influence), it only seems right that Nolu’s will be serving their take on the Thanksgiving spread, with a brunch at the Downtown location from 12pm to 4pm on Friday.
How much of your income do you need to save?
The more you save, the sooner you can retire. Tuan Phan, a board member of SimplyFI.com, says if you save just 5 per cent of your salary, you can expect to work for another 66 years before you are able to retire without too large a drop in income.
In other words, you will not save enough to retire comfortably. If you save 15 per cent, you can forward to another 43 working years. Up that to 40 per cent of your income, and your remaining working life drops to just 22 years. (see table)
Obviously, this is only a rough guide. How much you save will depend on variables, not least your salary and how much you already have in your pension pot. But it shows what you need to do to achieve financial independence.
Auron Mein Kahan Dum Tha
Starring: Ajay Devgn, Tabu, Shantanu Maheshwari, Jimmy Shergill, Saiee Manjrekar
Director: Neeraj Pandey
Rating: 2.5/5