Fashion Forward kicks off at Dubai’s Design District on Thursday with a packed three days of runway shows, sector talks and designer presentations. The latest edition will see 17 new brands debuting their collections before eagle-eyed buyers, members of the press and public.
The significant leap in participant numbers appears to reflect renewed optimism when it comes to the wider fashion industry.
According to a Dubai Chamber of Commerce and Industry report, based on Euromonitor data, the retail market in the Middle East has shown some resilience to lower oil prices. The study forecasts that retailing in the UAE has reached Dh200 billion this year and will continue to grow by 5 per cent on average, per annum.
“While UAE ready-to-wear is still in its infancy – less than 10 years old – we’re in a period of robust acceleration and designers are upping their game,” says Bong Guerrero, chief executive and co-founder of FFWD.
“It’s always good to scout new talent and launch labels into the market, and as a platform, we’re proud to do that. We support and subsidise wherever we can. We always coach participants to have solid business plans of a minimum of three years, and cash flow is everything. There’s a whole business eco-system in fashion, and brands need to be committed long-term because it is not a cheap affair.”
New inclusion to the FFWD schedule this month include Saudi Arabian abaya brand Ghudfah by Sarah Albaz, Kuwaiti brand Ghain Ghada, Lebanese couturier Abed Mahfouz and Dubai-based label Anaya.
Showing alongside first-timers are UAE-based couture masters Furne One and Michael Cinco. Their shows are anticipated to draw the crowds, as are key industry talks on everything from funding to trend forecasting. Attendees with an eye for upcoming jewellery collections can also peruse the work of regional brands, including Vinita Michael and Rula Galayini, in a dedicated accessories space called The Showcase.
“I feel that to do a fashion week and professional show, you have to be somewhat established,” says Chathuri Samaraweera, owner and head designer at the prêt-à-porter label Anaya.
“If you’re just starting out, and don’t know what you’re doing, there’s no mileage in doing a show. For me, Fashion Forward is worth it in PR terms alone. For example, visibility-wise, it can cover you for the year which is great if you don’t have the budget of Dh10,000 to Dh30,000 to give to a PR company. I would expect to see some kind of results about a month after the event.”
Samaraweera started her contemporary women’s label in 2011 with Dh18,000 of her own money. Six years later, she has her own studio, a staff of 10 people and stocks her pieces in various Dubai boutiques.
Her best advice for burgeoning brands is to outsource the manufacturing of their clothes within the UAE. “I wouldn’t recommend anyone invest in production in the beginning,” she says.
“It’s a huge liability in terms of hiring people, rent and licences. You can use local tailors instead and your first orders might only be five to ten pieces anyhow. Once you’re established – and it took about a year for me – reinvest everything. It was important for me not to have any loans from any partners or investors.”
The Dubai Chamber points to continued growth in the domestic fashion and luxury market, driven by the expansion of available retail space and new local and international players coming onto the scene.
The report forecasts that consumer spending will amount to more than Dh750 billion this year across many categories, and that outlay on apparel and footwear will account for about 7.4 per cent of people’s total expenditure.
“It all comes down to the survival of the fittest,” says Guerrero.
“Creative ideas have to backed up by solid support and financial planning because the market is ever changing and volatile. It’s still very young market for regional labels, and whether brands are seven years old or two years old, the challenges they face are the same. Naturally, the advantage that seasoned designers have as brands is that of maturity, visibility, network and capital.
“I’m hopeful 2017 will be on the upturn and it continues to give opportunities to regional labels to inch themselves into the retail space.”
• Fashion Forward S9 runs from Thursday to Saturday at Dubai Design District. To register or buy tickets, which cost from Dh100 for a one-day pass, visit www.fashionforward.ae
rduane@thenational.ae
Key figures in the life of the fort
Sheikh Dhiyab bin Isa (ruled 1761-1793) Built Qasr Al Hosn as a watchtower to guard over the only freshwater well on Abu Dhabi island.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab (ruled 1793-1816) Expanded the tower into a small fort and transferred his ruling place of residence from Liwa Oasis to the fort on the island.
Sheikh Tahnoon bin Shakhbut (ruled 1818-1833) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further as Abu Dhabi grew from a small village of palm huts to a town of more than 5,000 inhabitants.
Sheikh Khalifa bin Shakhbut (ruled 1833-1845) Repaired and fortified the fort.
Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon (ruled 1845-1855) Turned Qasr Al Hosn into a strong two-storied structure.
Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (ruled 1855-1909) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further to reflect the emirate's increasing prominence.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan (ruled 1928-1966) Renovated and enlarged Qasr Al Hosn, adding a decorative arch and two new villas.
Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan (ruled 1966-2004) Moved the royal residence to Al Manhal palace and kept his diwan at Qasr Al Hosn.
Sources: Jayanti Maitra, www.adach.ae
UK’s AI plan
- AI ambassadors such as MIT economist Simon Johnson, Monzo cofounder Tom Blomfield and Google DeepMind’s Raia Hadsell
- £10bn AI growth zone in South Wales to create 5,000 jobs
- £100m of government support for startups building AI hardware products
- £250m to train new AI models
Company%C2%A0profile
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APPLE IPAD MINI (A17 PRO)
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Biometrics: Touch ID, Face ID
Colours: Blue, purple, space grey, starlight
In the box: iPad mini, USB-C cable, 20W USB-C power adapter
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The Sand Castle
Director: Matty Brown
Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea
Rating: 2.5/5
If you go
Flight connections to Ulaanbaatar are available through a variety of hubs, including Seoul and Beijing, with airlines including Mongolian Airlines and Korean Air. While some nationalities, such as Americans, don’t need a tourist visa for Mongolia, others, including UAE citizens, can obtain a visa on arrival, while others including UK citizens, need to obtain a visa in advance. Contact the Mongolian Embassy in the UAE for more information.
Nomadic Road offers expedition-style trips to Mongolia in January and August, and other destinations during most other months. Its nine-day August 2020 Mongolia trip will cost from $5,250 per person based on two sharing, including airport transfers, two nights’ hotel accommodation in Ulaanbaatar, vehicle rental, fuel, third party vehicle liability insurance, the services of a guide and support team, accommodation, food and entrance fees; nomadicroad.com
A fully guided three-day, two-night itinerary at Three Camel Lodge costs from $2,420 per person based on two sharing, including airport transfers, accommodation, meals and excursions including the Yol Valley and Flaming Cliffs. A return internal flight from Ulaanbaatar to Dalanzadgad costs $300 per person and the flight takes 90 minutes each way; threecamellodge.com
GAC GS8 Specs
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GULF MEN'S LEAGUE
Pool A Dubai Hurricanes, Bahrain, Dubai Exiles, Dubai Tigers 2
Pool B Abu Dhabi Harlequins, Jebel Ali Dragons, Dubai Knights Eagles, Dubai Tigers
Opening fixtures
Thursday, December 5
6.40pm, Pitch 8, Abu Dhabi Harlequins v Dubai Knights Eagles
7pm, Pitch 2, Jebel Ali Dragons v Dubai Tigers
7pm, Pitch 4, Dubai Hurricanes v Dubai Exiles
7pm, Pitch 5, Bahrain v Dubai Eagles 2
Recent winners
2018 Dubai Hurricanes
2017 Dubai Exiles
2016 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
2015 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
2014 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
Desert Warrior
Starring: Anthony Mackie, Aiysha Hart, Ben Kingsley
Director: Rupert Wyatt
Rating: 3/5
Yahya Al Ghassani's bio
Date of birth: April 18, 1998
Playing position: Winger
Clubs: 2015-2017 – Al Ahli Dubai; March-June 2018 – Paris FC; August – Al Wahda
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
THREE POSSIBLE REPLACEMENTS
Khalfan Mubarak
The Al Jazira playmaker has for some time been tipped for stardom within UAE football, with Quique Sanchez Flores, his former manager at Al Ahli, once labelling him a “genius”. He was only 17. Now 23, Mubarak has developed into a crafty supplier of chances, evidenced by his seven assists in six league matches this season. Still to display his class at international level, though.
Rayan Yaslam
The Al Ain attacking midfielder has become a regular starter for his club in the past 15 months. Yaslam, 23, is a tidy and intelligent player, technically proficient with an eye for opening up defences. Developed while alongside Abdulrahman in the Al Ain first-team and has progressed well since manager Zoran Mamic’s arrival. However, made his UAE debut only last December.
Ismail Matar
The Al Wahda forward is revered by teammates and a key contributor to the squad. At 35, his best days are behind him, but Matar is incredibly experienced and an example to his colleagues. His ability to cope with tournament football is a concern, though, despite Matar beginning the season well. Not a like-for-like replacement, although the system could be adjusted to suit.
Classification of skills
A worker is categorised as skilled by the MOHRE based on nine levels given in the International Standard Classification of Occupations (ISCO) issued by the International Labour Organisation.
A skilled worker would be someone at a professional level (levels 1 – 5) which includes managers, professionals, technicians and associate professionals, clerical support workers, and service and sales workers.
The worker must also have an attested educational certificate higher than secondary or an equivalent certification, and earn a monthly salary of at least Dh4,000.
Key findings of Jenkins report
- Founder of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hassan al Banna, "accepted the political utility of violence"
- Views of key Muslim Brotherhood ideologue, Sayyid Qutb, have “consistently been understood” as permitting “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” and “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
- Muslim Brotherhood at all levels has repeatedly defended Hamas attacks against Israel, including the use of suicide bombers and the killing of civilians.
- Laying out the report in the House of Commons, David Cameron told MPs: "The main findings of the review support the conclusion that membership of, association with, or influence by the Muslim Brotherhood should be considered as a possible indicator of extremism."
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The specs
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Transmission: 6-speed automatic
Starting price: Dh79,000
On sale: Now
