Known for his candid images, Bill Cunningham was a well-known figure around international fashion shows, always arriving by bicycle, wearing his trademark blue workman's jacket, a 35mm camera slung around his neck. The legendary photographer died in New York on Saturday, June 25 at the age of 87; his death was confirmed by The New York Times, where he had worked for 40 years.
A 2010 documentary about him, Bill Cunningham New York, introduced him to a wider audience, going on to win best documentary at several film festivals, including the Abu Dhabi Film Festival.
The film sought to show Cunningham's extraordinary ability to capture the new and the emerging in fashion. As American Vogue editor Anna Wintour explained, he had a knack to "see something – on the street or on the runway – that completely missed all of us". The filming itself was a difficult process for Cunningham, who was reluctant to allow access to his life, and saw director Richard Press, following him around on a bicycle for a year. "He was using his camera to document not just how people dress, but who we are," Press explained to the Los Angeles Times.
Cunningham moved to New York from Boston at the age of 19, and began working first as a milliner, then later a fashion writer for Women's Wear Daily. By the late 1960s he had turned his hand to photography, keen to capture the style of everyday people in the city around him. Drawn to a sense of panache – regardless of budget – he was fascinated by those who know instinctively how to put a look together.
His photographs caught the attention of The New York Times and, in 1978, he started work for the Style Section. His weekly columns documenting the endless variations of fashion quickly became must-reads.
His column On The Streets focused on street fashion from around New York, while his second column, Evening Hours, centred on the outfits at the numerous charity events that make up New York society life.
Although he attended glittering events almost every night, he preferred to keep the focus on his subject, declining even offers of water. In contrast, those attending all clamoured to be photographed by Cunningham. As Wintour explained, “We all dressed for Bill.”Choosing to ignore the trappings of his fame, he lived in a studio in Carnegie Hall, ate breakfast at the same deli everyday and tore up cheques from the magazine he helped launch in 1982.
Yet his fame caught up with him. He was awarded the Legion of Honor by France in 2008, while 2009 saw him declared a Living Landmark in New York.
It is hard to underestimate the effect Cunningham had on fashion. As well as giving rise to the genre now known as 'Street style' photographer, and which gave rise to blogging, Cunningham tirelessly captured the good and the bad of fashion. Every look, every suit, dress and accessory were caught on film. Some figures were his favourites, and to who he returned again, and again, One such was Anna Piaggi, creative consultant for Italian Vogue. Another was Iris Apfel, who he discovered at the age of 82. The Hollywood Reporter likened Cunningham to an ornithologist, who "used his camera like a notepad, keeping careful tabs on every genus, phylum and species of stylish bird".
However, perhaps it is the words of New York Mayor Bill de Blasio that best sum up Cunningham: “Today we lost a Living Landmark, not that he ever stood still. Let’s all be more fabulous in Bill’s memory.”
smaisey@thenational.ae
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Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
Day 2, Dubai Test: At a glance
Moment of the day Pakistan’s effort in the field had hints of shambles about it. The wheels were officially off when Wahab Riaz lost his run up and aborted the delivery four times in a row. He re-measured his run, jogged in for two practice goes. Then, when he was finally ready to go, he bailed out again. It was a total cringefest.
Stat of the day – 139.5 Yasir Shah has bowled 139.5 overs in three innings so far in this Test series. Judged by his returns, the workload has not withered him. He has 14 wickets so far, and became history’s first spinner to take five-wickets in an innings in five consecutive Tests. Not bad for someone whose fitness was in question before the series.
The verdict Stranger things have happened, but it is going to take something extraordinary for Pakistan to keep their undefeated record in Test series in the UAE in tact from this position. At least Shan Masood and Sami Aslam have made a positive start to the salvage effort.
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The Brutalist
Director: Brady Corbet
Stars: Adrien Brody, Felicity Jones, Guy Pearce, Joe Alwyn
Rating: 3.5/5
Honeymoonish
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Not Dark Yet
Shelby Lynne and Allison Moorer
Four stars
Emergency phone numbers in the UAE
Estijaba – 8001717 – number to call to request coronavirus testing
Ministry of Health and Prevention – 80011111
Dubai Health Authority – 800342 – The number to book a free video or voice consultation with a doctor or connect to a local health centre
Emirates airline – 600555555
Etihad Airways – 600555666
Ambulance – 998
Knowledge and Human Development Authority – 8005432 ext. 4 for Covid-19 queries
UAE players with central contracts
Rohan Mustafa, Ashfaq Ahmed, Chirag Suri, Rameez Shahzad, Shaiman Anwar, Adnan Mufti, Mohammed Usman, Ghulam Shabbir, Ahmed Raza, Qadeer Ahmed, Amir Hayat, Mohammed Naveed and Imran Haider.
How to avoid crypto fraud
- Use unique usernames and passwords while enabling multi-factor authentication.
- Use an offline private key, a physical device that requires manual activation, whenever you access your wallet.
- Avoid suspicious social media ads promoting fraudulent schemes.
- Only invest in crypto projects that you fully understand.
- Critically assess whether a project’s promises or returns seem too good to be true.
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Getting%20there%20
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THE LIGHT
Director: Tom Tykwer
Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger
Rating: 3/5
Haemoglobin disorders explained
Thalassaemia is part of a family of genetic conditions affecting the blood known as haemoglobin disorders.
Haemoglobin is a substance in the red blood cells that carries oxygen and a lack of it triggers anemia, leaving patients very weak, short of breath and pale.
The most severe type of the condition is typically inherited when both parents are carriers. Those patients often require regular blood transfusions - about 450 of the UAE's 2,000 thalassaemia patients - though frequent transfusions can lead to too much iron in the body and heart and liver problems.
The condition mainly affects people of Mediterranean, South Asian, South-East Asian and Middle Eastern origin. Saudi Arabia recorded 45,892 cases of carriers between 2004 and 2014.
A World Health Organisation study estimated that globally there are at least 950,000 'new carrier couples' every year and annually there are 1.33 million at-risk pregnancies.
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