Vivienne Westwood, the ever-provocative grand dame of British fashion, talks to Katie Trotter about empowerment, feminism and why we all look dreadful.
Up close, Vivienne Westwood has the palest skin I have ever seen. It's almost translucent, like parchment paper. Her wild eyes glint like marbles, and her candyfloss hair is the colour of burning embers. It is hard to believe that Dame Vivienne Westwood, the original queen of punk and protagonist of modern fashion, recently celebrated her 68th birthday.
Although transcending time and trend, hers is not a face of particular beauty. With its impish dimensions, eyebrows that look as if they have been drawn in with crayon and playful expression that defies her years, she looks not unlike Queen Elizabeth I.
Observing the life and career of Vivienne Westwood is, as she herself says, like trying to get a ship into a bottle.
A professional provocateur, the designer responsible for giving a visual expression to punk and the methodical creator of faultless drapery, she is arguably Britain's most instrumental fashion designer.
I have been firmly briefed by her PR machine ahead of this interview. Along with many other guidelines, I am warned that Vivienne does not like "frivolous" types. Fantastic. It seems that somehow I have managed to annoy "Queen Viv" before we have yet spoken.
I wonder if it is these sorts of experiences that have caused the British media so often to portray her as humourless, something that is difficult to understand. After all, this is the woman who used Pamela Anderson as a muse, who sent models down the runway wearing underwear as outerwear, who created 10-inch platforms, and who collected an OBE from the Queen wearing a flesh-coloured, see-through dress and no underwear.
She was born Vivienne Swire in 1941 in Tintwistle, a small village on the Derbyshire/Cheshire borders in northern England. Her upbringing was not a remarkable one - her father worked in a sausage factory and her mother in a grocer's. It strikes me as odd that such a spectacular persona sprang from somewhere quite so, well, unspectacular, although, by her own admission, she says she sensed from an early age that she was destined to be less 'white bread' than her upbringing might have led her to be.
In 1962, after the family moved to Harrow, on the outskirts of London, to find work, she fell in love and married Derek John Westwood. Soon after her wedding (she made her own dress, and was already a dab hand with a needle and thread) she settled in Willesden, north London, where she became a primary schoolteacher and had her first son, Benjamin. Domesticity and Westwood were never going to fit, and the marriage disintegrated after three years.
It was around this time she met 18-year-old Malcolm Edwards, an untameable art theorist and musician who later found fame as Malcolm McLaren (the manager of the Sex Pistols) and had her second son, Joseph (now the co-founder of lingerie chain Agent Provocateur), with him. In 1971, she and McLaren opened their first London clothing shop, Let It Rock and, "The rest is history," she peeps.
In the four decades since, the self-created Westwood has had a phenomenal effect on the way we dress, her eccentricity providing light relief in an industry that can often be seen as rife with banality. By 1979, punk had given way to the New Romantic style, and in 1981, Westwood launched probably her most famous collection to date - the pirate. Following its success, she established an international reputation, and was invited to show in Paris (the first British designer to do so since Mary Quant).
When it comes to the socio-cultural principles of fashion (one of the few topics aside from politics she cares to discuss at any length), Westwood believes that clothing should be charged with a physical presence, should provoke a reaction, should make ourselves and the observer feel uncomfortable. Anything short of that quite frankly bores her.
"The majority of people on the street look quite dreadful," she says. "They are lazy in their dress and take no time to express themselves through clothes."
I remind her of the time she once said that fashion was dull, and instead of defending the obvious contradiction she steamrollers on: "Minimalism is a dominant force because people are afraid of committing an error in taste. They prefer to say nothing rather than make a mistake."
Her views on the role of woman in society are notoriously antifeminist, which seems strange for the founder of politico-erotic clothing.
"I am not a feminist," she insists. "Equality for women is important, but not the overarching problem with the world in which we live. Women should try to be women even - or rather especially - when wearing trousers. Do you dress for yourself or others? Does it matter?"
Westwood has a knack for combining the outrageous with the traditional, and each piece, meticulously created, reminds us that in times like these it is comforting to see that the true essence of couture is still very much alive. Femininity is the essence of her design, and there is something in the cut that encourages the fabric to cling to all the right places and seems to heighten the sexuality of the wearer.
"My clothes are uncompromising in the sense that they are what they are, and if you want them to, they can make you incredibly strong," she says. "You have to decide. If you wear my clothes you are basically saying, I am here, I am something to be reckoned with, so take it or leave it'."
Westwood doesn't do modern, and chooses only to source her inspiration from historical references. Her design aesthetic is, and always has been, about the deconstruction and reconstruction of a garment, originating from her punk years. I wonder if this is a product of growing up in make-do-and-mend wartime Britain.
"I am more interested in history than in the present," she replies. "It is only by thinking things through methodically that one can have opinions worth mentioning.
"My clothes are quite theatrical, inviting people to come and talk to you. The added bonus is, you are not going to be bothered by conservative types coming up to you, because they won't."
Although time may have watered down her somewhat (by her own admission) idealistic punk theories, her commitment to using fashion as a means of personal propaganda has not. Her own views on fashion are themselves unfashionable and she feels that it is purely a jumping-off point for her creativity: "Fashion is something I didn't want to do in the first place. I wanted to read books, but I knew I was good at it."
As anyone close to her will tell you, Westwood, always passionate about her current line of inquiry, has become almost evangelistic about politics of late, and her previous couple of collections have been used as a canvas for her own political messages.
"It's a good way to protest," she tells me, and the only way to be overtly political within fashion. People like to feel like they are not the only ones against the machine."
I am not surprised to learn that her most recent collection, named "Do It Yourself", stems from her growing concern over deforestation, especially that of the world's rainforests.
"I wanted to use the show as an opportunity to catch the imagination and inspire people to change their behaviour," she says. "I wanted to encourage an open and creative mind towards ideas in regeneration as well as encourage sustainability and versatility in our views of dressing."
Now that times are tough, fashion design has had to turn back to its powers of invention. Westwood is in prime position, for unlike so many of her contemporaries, she will not allow her vision to be hampered by anything as mundane as commercialism.
"My clothes allow the wearer to be truly individual, which goes against the thinking at the moment," she says. "They allow you to project your personality, and are quite theatrical in the sense that they are real clothes, well-designed, but still giving you a chance to express yourself."
The age of conspicuous consumption is over, and it seems that inspiration over aspiration is the point of reference for Westwood.
She slams the British system of education, claiming that it is training up a nation of consumers rather than thinkers. For her, scepticism should be the guiding force.
"Our culture is stagnant," she says. "We need to question everything. People must know that every time they look up a word in the dictionary or look at paintings instead of a magazine, they are resisting propaganda."
Westwood wants us to buy less, to make a choice, yet her diffusion lines (also known as the money makers) would surely be suggesting we do quite the opposite?
"Fashion is all about branding and styling now, more than creativity. People should stop buying relentlessly. There is this idea that somehow you have got to keep changing things, and as often as possible. People should stop and take some time to think about what they want; what they really like."
Westwood is one of those hyperkinetic personalities you want to become friends with because your life would become a whole lot more interesting if you did. She holds out a promise of new inventions, and is only ever truly comfortable hovering on the periphery of ordinary. Enquiring and articulate, her speech is peppered with evocative fragments of art, sociology, literature, history and politics (albeit fashionable ones), rolled into one tremendous tumbleweed of a monologue that you just can't help be excited by.
It is impossible to remain indifferent to such an inspired maverick, and it is difficult to portray her in the spectacular light that she so desires (or deserves for that matter), because like most inspired exhibitionists she has no time for popular taste, and I have a feeling that, deep down, she opposes conventional media as much as she does conventional fashion.
Her recent show notes read the simple words: "In times like these dress up".
And that is just what I will do, but then again, that would be frivolous, wouldn't it?
Afghanistan fixtures
- v Australia, today
- v Sri Lanka, Tuesday
- v New Zealand, Saturday,
- v South Africa, June 15
- v England, June 18
- v India, June 22
- v Bangladesh, June 24
- v Pakistan, June 29
- v West Indies, July 4
Why it pays to compare
A comparison of sending Dh20,000 from the UAE using two different routes at the same time - the first direct from a UAE bank to a bank in Germany, and the second from the same UAE bank via an online platform to Germany - found key differences in cost and speed. The transfers were both initiated on January 30.
Route 1: bank transfer
The UAE bank charged Dh152.25 for the Dh20,000 transfer. On top of that, their exchange rate margin added a difference of around Dh415, compared with the mid-market rate.
Total cost: Dh567.25 - around 2.9 per cent of the total amount
Total received: €4,670.30
Route 2: online platform
The UAE bank’s charge for sending Dh20,000 to a UK dirham-denominated account was Dh2.10. The exchange rate margin cost was Dh60, plus a Dh12 fee.
Total cost: Dh74.10, around 0.4 per cent of the transaction
Total received: €4,756
The UAE bank transfer was far quicker – around two to three working days, while the online platform took around four to five days, but was considerably cheaper. In the online platform transfer, the funds were also exposed to currency risk during the period it took for them to arrive.
Types of bank fraud
1) Phishing
Fraudsters send an unsolicited email that appears to be from a financial institution or online retailer. The hoax email requests that you provide sensitive information, often by clicking on to a link leading to a fake website.
2) Smishing
The SMS equivalent of phishing. Fraudsters falsify the telephone number through “text spoofing,” so that it appears to be a genuine text from the bank.
3) Vishing
The telephone equivalent of phishing and smishing. Fraudsters may pose as bank staff, police or government officials. They may persuade the consumer to transfer money or divulge personal information.
4) SIM swap
Fraudsters duplicate the SIM of your mobile number without your knowledge or authorisation, allowing them to conduct financial transactions with your bank.
5) Identity theft
Someone illegally obtains your confidential information, through various ways, such as theft of your wallet, bank and utility bill statements, computer intrusion and social networks.
6) Prize scams
Fraudsters claiming to be authorised representatives from well-known organisations (such as Etisalat, du, Dubai Shopping Festival, Expo2020, Lulu Hypermarket etc) contact victims to tell them they have won a cash prize and request them to share confidential banking details to transfer the prize money.
Timeline
2012-2015
The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East
May 2017
The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts
September 2021
Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act
October 2021
Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence
December 2024
Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group
May 2025
The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan
July 2025
The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan
August 2025
Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision
October 2025
Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange
November 2025
180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups
Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.
Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.
Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.
Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, Leon.
Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.
Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.
Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.
Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.
Director: Laxman Utekar
Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna
Rating: 1/5
Sarfira
Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad
Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal
Rating: 2/5
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
Race card:
6.30pm: Maiden; Dh165,000; 2,000m
7.05pm: Handicap; Dh165,000; 2,200m
7.40pm: Conditions; Dh240,000; 1,600m
8.15pm: Handicap; Dh190,000; 2,000m
8.50pm: The Garhoud Sprint Listed; Dh265,000; 1,200m
9.25pm: Handicap; Dh170,000; 1,600m
10pm: Handicap; Dh190,000; 1,400m
Classification of skills
A worker is categorised as skilled by the MOHRE based on nine levels given in the International Standard Classification of Occupations (ISCO) issued by the International Labour Organisation.
A skilled worker would be someone at a professional level (levels 1 – 5) which includes managers, professionals, technicians and associate professionals, clerical support workers, and service and sales workers.
The worker must also have an attested educational certificate higher than secondary or an equivalent certification, and earn a monthly salary of at least Dh4,000.
In numbers: China in Dubai
The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000
Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000
Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent
Ukraine
Capital: Kiev
Population: 44.13 million
Armed conflict in Donbass
Russia-backed fighters control territory
Mia Man’s tips for fermentation
- Start with a simple recipe such as yogurt or sauerkraut
- Keep your hands and kitchen tools clean. Sanitize knives, cutting boards, tongs and storage jars with boiling water before you start.
- Mold is bad: the colour pink is a sign of mold. If yogurt turns pink as it ferments, you need to discard it and start again. For kraut, if you remove the top leaves and see any sign of mold, you should discard the batch.
- Always use clean, closed, airtight lids and containers such as mason jars when fermenting yogurt and kraut. Keep the lid closed to prevent insects and contaminants from getting in.
Essentials
The flights
Emirates, Etihad and Malaysia Airlines all fly direct from the UAE to Kuala Lumpur and on to Penang from about Dh2,300 return, including taxes.
Where to stay
In Kuala Lumpur, Element is a recently opened, futuristic hotel high up in a Norman Foster-designed skyscraper. Rooms cost from Dh400 per night, including taxes. Hotel Stripes, also in KL, is a great value design hotel, with an infinity rooftop pool. Rooms cost from Dh310, including taxes.
In Penang, Ren i Tang is a boutique b&b in what was once an ancient Chinese Medicine Hall in the centre of Little India. Rooms cost from Dh220, including taxes.
23 Love Lane in Penang is a luxury boutique heritage hotel in a converted mansion, with private tropical gardens. Rooms cost from Dh400, including taxes.
In Langkawi, Temple Tree is a unique architectural villa hotel consisting of antique houses from all across Malaysia. Rooms cost from Dh350, including taxes.
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
England squad
Goalkeepers: Jordan Pickford, Nick Pope, Aaron Ramsdale
Defenders: Trent Alexander-Arnold, Conor Coady, Marc Guehi, Reece James, Harry Maguire, Tyrone Mings, Luke Shaw, John Stones, Ben White
Midfielders: Jude Bellingham, Conor Gallagher, Mason Mount, Jordan Henderson, Declan Rice, James Ward-Prowse
Forwards: Tammy Abraham, Phil Foden, Jack Grealish, Harry Kane, Bukayo Saka, Emile Smith Rowe, Raheem Sterling
Match info
Australia 580
Pakistan 240 and 335
Result: Australia win by an innings and five runs
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
Where can I submit a sample?
Volunteers can now submit DNA samples at a number of centres across Abu Dhabi. The programme is open to all ages.
Collection centres in Abu Dhabi include:
- Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre (ADNEC)
- Biogenix Labs in Masdar City
- Al Towayya in Al Ain
- NMC Royal Hospital in Khalifa City
- Bareen International Hospital
- NMC Specialty Hospital, Al Ain
- NMC Royal Medical Centre - Abu Dhabi
- NMC Royal Women’s Hospital.
ONCE UPON A TIME IN GAZA
Starring: Nader Abd Alhay, Majd Eid, Ramzi Maqdisi
Directors: Tarzan and Arab Nasser
Rating: 4.5/5
Skoda Superb Specs
Engine: 2-litre TSI petrol
Power: 190hp
Torque: 320Nm
Price: From Dh147,000
Available: Now
TO ALL THE BOYS: ALWAYS AND FOREVER
Directed by: Michael Fimognari
Starring: Lana Condor and Noah Centineo
Two stars
From Zero
Artist: Linkin Park
Label: Warner Records
Number of tracks: 11
Rating: 4/5
UK’s AI plan
- AI ambassadors such as MIT economist Simon Johnson, Monzo cofounder Tom Blomfield and Google DeepMind’s Raia Hadsell
- £10bn AI growth zone in South Wales to create 5,000 jobs
- £100m of government support for startups building AI hardware products
- £250m to train new AI models
Company%20Profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDirect%20Debit%20System%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Sept%202017%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%20with%20a%20subsidiary%20in%20the%20UK%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20FinTech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Undisclosed%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Elaine%20Jones%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%208%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Favourite book: ‘The Art of Learning’ by Josh Waitzkin
Favourite film: Marvel movies
Favourite parkour spot in Dubai: Residence towers in Jumeirah Beach Residence
5 of the most-popular Airbnb locations in Dubai
Bobby Grudziecki, chief operating officer of Frank Porter, identifies the five most popular areas in Dubai for those looking to make the most out of their properties and the rates owners can secure:
• Dubai Marina
The Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residence are popular locations, says Mr Grudziecki, due to their closeness to the beach, restaurants and hotels.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh482 to Dh739
Two bedroom: Dh627 to Dh960
Three bedroom: Dh721 to Dh1,104
• Downtown
Within walking distance of the Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and the famous fountains, this location combines business and leisure. “Sure it’s for tourists,” says Mr Grudziecki. “Though Downtown [still caters to business people] because it’s close to Dubai International Financial Centre."
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh497 to Dh772
Two bedroom: Dh646 to Dh1,003
Three bedroom: Dh743 to Dh1,154
• City Walk
The rising star of the Dubai property market, this area is lined with pristine sidewalks, boutiques and cafes and close to the new entertainment venue Coca Cola Arena. “Downtown and Marina are pretty much the same prices,” Mr Grudziecki says, “but City Walk is higher.”
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh524 to Dh809
Two bedroom: Dh682 to Dh1,052
Three bedroom: Dh784 to Dh1,210
• Jumeirah Lake Towers
Dubai Marina’s little brother JLT resides on the other side of Sheikh Zayed road but is still close enough to beachside outlets and attractions. The big selling point for Airbnb renters, however, is that “it’s cheaper than Dubai Marina”, Mr Grudziecki says.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh422 to Dh629
Two bedroom: Dh549 to Dh818
Three bedroom: Dh631 to Dh941
• Palm Jumeirah
Palm Jumeirah's proximity to luxury resorts is attractive, especially for big families, says Mr Grudziecki, as Airbnb renters can secure competitive rates on one of the world’s most famous tourist destinations.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh503 to Dh770
Two bedroom: Dh654 to Dh1,002
Three bedroom: Dh752 to Dh1,152
