Muslim pilgrims at the Grand Mosque in Makkah, Saudi Arabia, during this year's Hajj. AP
Muslim pilgrims at the Grand Mosque in Makkah, Saudi Arabia, during this year's Hajj. AP
Muslim pilgrims at the Grand Mosque in Makkah, Saudi Arabia, during this year's Hajj. AP
Muslim pilgrims at the Grand Mosque in Makkah, Saudi Arabia, during this year's Hajj. AP

What I learnt on Hajj: It’s no picnic, but then, it was never meant to be


Saeed Saeed
  • English
  • Arabic

Whenever people are about to embark on the religious Hajj pilgrimage to Makkah, they seem to feel the need to ask for advice from those who have already done it.

Because every Hajj is unique to each worshipper, the questions mostly revolve around practical tips on how to navigate a two-million-strong sea of white-robed pilgrims.

I embarked upon my pilgrimage in 2010 and recall speaking about the experience to my Mauritanian friend Yassine eight years later. My advice was all about what happens after the fact, and how he will feel when he returns to Abu Dhabi. “That’s when your real ­challenges begin,” I said.

I understood his miffed expression, because I had the same reaction when, just before travelling to the Hajj from Melbourne, an ­Australian teacher called Sara told me just that.

“What is she talking about?” I thought. “The challenge is to actually survive the Hajj.”

As someone who isn't comfortable in large crowds, I thought the pilgrimage would be the most challenging experience of my life. And in a way, it was.

To describe the Hajj as gruelling is an understatement.

For nearly a week, you are following a regimen that is both spiritual and physical. Daily prayers are mixed with walks to worship stations alongside millions of people from different languages and cultures.

While that sea of humanity is a beautiful thing to witness, it can be quite frustrating, too.

There were plenty of moments when I came close to losing my temper with other pilgrims in my Hajj group – one was constantly complaining about the facilities and the heat, while the other was always late to the bus, causing us to get stuck in endless traffic jams.

I resolved to keep my mouth shut, and hoped my muttered prayers would assuage my grievances. But even that was a worry. I was mentally running myself ragged in my quest to seek a spiritual high.

I was concerned that, despite my efforts and the hefty sum of money I paid to make the Hajj, I wasn't “feeling it”, so to speak.

But like the physical world, the spiritual realm can also be subject to the rule of hindsight.

For me, the Hajj was indeed no picnic but, on reflection, isn't that the point?

The lack of sleep, the gruelling tawaf (circumambulation) of the Kaaba at the Grand Mosque in Makkah and standing in the heat on top of Mount Arafat allowed me to discover hidden reserves of stamina and resilience I never thought I possessed.

The daily prayers offered in congregation gave me an understanding that a spiritual life is not about chasing one feeling, but is instead an evolving process that needs to be constantly nourished and refined.

Instead of an entirely new beginning, I learnt that the Hajj gave me the tools to begin to make the internal changes I seek. And that’s where the challenges that Sara spoke of lay. Gleaning those insights is one thing, but to use them in life to be the best version of myself remains a tiring and daunting process.

It is the equivalent of climbing Mount Arafat daily, and constantly stumbling on the way.

But, with the map and the tool kit that the Hajj provided me, at least I knew which direction to head in.

This story was originally published in 2018

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Read more on Hajj 2023:

What is Saudi Arabia's 'Proclaim to the People' initiative?

Muslims in Mena region determined to attend Hajj despite economic hardship

More Omanis to qualify for free pilgrimage

Eid Al Adha 2023: Where to watch the fireworks in Abu Dhabi and Dubai

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From Zero

Artist: Linkin Park

Label: Warner Records

Number of tracks: 11

Rating: 4/5

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Tom Sleigh, Graywolf Press

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
The specs: 2018 Chevrolet Trailblazer

Price, base / as tested Dh99,000 / Dh132,000

Engine 3.6L V6

Transmission: Six-speed automatic

Power 275hp @ 6,000rpm

Torque 350Nm @ 3,700rpm

Fuel economy combined 12.2L / 100km

BUNDESLIGA FIXTURES

Saturday

Borussia Dortmund v Eintracht Frankfurt (5.30pm kick-off UAE)

Bayer Leverkusen v Schalke (5.30pm)

Wolfsburg v Cologne (5.30pm)

Mainz v Arminia Bielefeld (5.30pm)

Augsburg v Hoffenheim (5.30pm)

RB Leipzig v Bayern Munich (8.30pm)

Borussia Monchengladbach v Freiburg (10.30pm)

Sunday

VfB Stuttgart v Werder Bremen  (5.30pm)

Union Berlin v Hertha Berlin (8pm)