Inside Chanel: our exclusive interview with Bruno Pavlovsky

'It was N°5," Bruno Pavlovsky recalls. "I first connected with Chanel through N°5. My mother, her friends and my grandmother all wore it."

As president of fashion at Chanel, Pavlovsky is one of the most powerful figures in the fashion industry. He has been with the luxury maison for more than 24 years and, together with creative director Karl Lagerfeld, has grown the company into a global powerhouse with a reach that extends far beyond the runway. But sitting across the table from Pavlovsky at Chanel's Mademoiselle Privé exhibition in Seoul this summer, it is reassuring to learn that he, much like the rest of us, discovered Chanel through the trace of a lingering scent.

With an empire encompassing perfume, jewellery, timepieces, leather goods, make-up and, of course, fashion, the house of Chanel is now a respectable 107 years old. And yet, in spite of its storied past, it is a company that continues to be associated with innovation. Which brings us back to N°5.

Launched in 1921, Chanel N°5 has withstood the test of time because of its revolutionary recipe. Scents of the time tended to rely on a single dominant note, most often a floral or musk, but N°5 featured a bouquet of 80 ingredients, as well as aldehydes, chemical compounds used to intensify the other ingredients. This heralded an important shift in the fragrance industry, and the resultant scent has enthralled women for almost a century.

Years ahead of her time, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel changed the course of fashion, perfume and high jewellery, setting the bar high for those who followed. But the world has changed considerably since her heyday, and companies operating today face very different challenges. So how does a brand that still calls on codes from the 1920s, engage with customers who are obsessed with Instagram?

"Fifteen or 20 years ago, to be able to communicate was very easy," Pavlovsky says. "Put on an impactful show, with nice images and nice videos, and you are done. Now, every week, we need to develop specific content, specific targets, specific products, because our audience is more and more demanding. This new generation, when they come to the boutique, believe me, sometimes they know more about Chanel than the people working for the brand.

"What is important for the future," Pavlovsky continues, "is to deepen the relationships we have with our customers and the next generation. That has been our way for the past 30 years – to recruit the daughters of our existing customers. Today, to be able to connect with the new generation, you have no choice but to be digitally minded."

The Mademoiselle Privé exhibition is a perfect example of how the company is rising to the challenge. Designed ostensibly as an arena to present highlights from the past century, it cleverly shows how Chanel is embracing the future. Tickets are only available via an app, which then transforms into an on-site guide. Proffering facts and information, it even brings Gabrielle – albeit fleetingly and via augmented reality – back to life. Slick and sassy, it is clearly pitched to a phone-carrying audience.

Even haute couture, that bastion of slow fashion, is reimagined and displayed on vertical poles of neon, forcing viewers to literally see the pieces in a new light. It is a bold strategy, but there is an element of risk, too. In its attempts to engage a new audience, might Chanel not alienate the very women who can actually afford couture?

"The customers of haute couture are very well connected," Pavlovsky explains. "When they are travelling in a taxi or private jet, they have time. And when people have time, they browse. Thanks to Mr Lagerfeld, today our haute couture is modern and for tomorrow. It is not based on the past."

Lagerfeld is, undoubtedly, forward-thinking, and his willingness to embrace new ideas and methods is proved season after season – but perhaps most obviously in Chanel's autumn/winter 2015/16 haute couture collection. Here, Lagerfeld used a technique known as Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) to give the classic Chanel suit a 21st-century makeover, by introducing intriguing volume and three-dimensionality to this most traditional of silhouettes. The pieces were moulded, rather than sewed. "The idea was to take the most iconic jacket from the 20th century and turn it into a 21st-century version, which was technically not possible at the time it was born," Lagerfeld explained at the time.

There is an onus on 21st-century brands to be connected around the clock, and to communicate directly with their consumers, delivering information and updates directly into the palm of their hands. However, for a rarefied company such as Chanel, there is a delicate balance to be had. Brands that are overzealous on social media run the risk of overexposing themselves, and that all-elusive sheen of exclusivity can wear thin. "Our approach is not about being everywhere; it is about being exclusive," Pavlovsky maintains. "And for me, there is no luxury without exclusivity."

Arguably the most exclusive segment of the Chanel portfolio, high jewellery is another area where the brand manages to break new ground while staying faithful to its past. At Baselworld earlier this year, Chanel presented a new watch, the Première Camélia Skeleton. Designed to mimic the flowing curves of a camellia, closer inspection reveals that the flower is also the movement. "At Chanel, it all starts with the innovation," Frédéric Grangié, president of watches and jewellery for Chanel, tells me. "The start of every collection is a code, a number from the house, and then our designers will take it and have fun with it."

Referring to a new timepiece due to be launched in October, Grangié assures me that it will be something completely unexpected. "When you see it, you will understand that it can only start from creation. If you are just thinking about launching a new watch on the market, this is not what you are going to do. This is the most Chanel watch we have ever designed."

Looking across the house as a whole, seeing how it consistently melds the old with the new, it dawns on me that perhaps this balancing act is the very essence of the Chanel story. Its success lies in its uncanny ability to create pieces that look classic but feel modern; to find that indefinable and elusive space between modern and historical; and to look forward, while staying true to the past.

The other major houses appear to draw creative energy from a constantly shifting rota of designers, while Chanel has maintained the same team for more than a quarter of a century. Clearly, the partnership of Lagerfeld and Pavlovsky is a winning one.

And after all these years, Lagerfeld's output shows little sign of slowing. However, at the age of 83, eventually, he will have to ease back on his punishing workload, and pass Chanel to other, younger hands. Although hopefully some way off, clearly this is a thought that has crossed everyone's mind. "Today, it is Mr Lagerfeld," Pavlovsky tells me confidently. "He is still active and very inspired. It is always amazing to see the sketches for the next haute couture collection."

There is a slight pause. "He is a genius. No doubt about that. Think of the work he has done over the past 30 years. He has made the brand strong, he has been able to clarify the direction of the brand, to reinterpret the cult of the brand and to push the brand for the future. So today Chanel is like a jewel, like a diamond. Everything is ready for the future."

Sustainable Development Goals

1. End poverty in all its forms everywhere

2. End hunger, achieve food security and improved nutrition and promote sustainable agriculture

3. Ensure healthy lives and promote well-being for all at all ages

4. Ensure inclusive and equitable quality education and promote lifelong learning opportunities for all

5. Achieve gender equality and empower all women and girls

6. Ensure availability and sustainable management of water and sanitation for all

7. Ensure access to affordable, reliable, sustainable and modern energy for all

8. Promote sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and productive employment and decent work for all

9. Build resilient infrastructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialisation and foster innovation

10. Reduce inequality within and among countries

11. Make cities and human settlements inclusive, safe, resilient and sustainable

12. Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns

13. Take urgent action to combat climate change and its effects

14. Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources for sustainable development

15. Protect, restore and promote sustainable use of terrestrial ecosystems, sustainably manage forests, combat desertification, and halt and reverse land degradation and halt biodiversity loss

16. Promote peaceful and inclusive societies for sustainable development, provide access to justice for all and build effective, accountable and inclusive institutions at all levels

17. Strengthen the means of implementation and revitalise the global partnership for sustainable development

Squid Game season two

Director: Hwang Dong-hyuk

Stars: Lee Jung-jae, Wi Ha-joon and Lee Byung-hun

Rating: 4.5/5

The specs: 2018 Renault Koleos

Price, base: From Dh77,900
Engine: 2.5L, in-line four-cylinder
Transmission: Continuously variable transmission
Power: 170hp @ 6,000rpm
Torque: 233Nm @ 4,000rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 8.3L / 100km

The national orchestra

UAE to launch new national orchestra for Emiratis and residents

New Emirati national orchestra will help tackle schools' 'apathy' towards music

National Editorial: New national orchestra will bring its harmonies to the world

Opinion: How the UAE's new national orchestra can future-proof itself

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

The specs

Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo

Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm

Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm

Transmission: Eight-speed auto

Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km

On sale: December

Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)

Essentials
The flights
Return flights from Dubai to Windhoek, with a combination of Emirates and Air Namibia, cost from US$790 (Dh2,902) via Johannesburg.
The trip
A 10-day self-drive in Namibia staying at a combination of the safari camps mentioned – Okonjima AfriCat, Little Kulala, Desert Rhino/Damaraland, Ongava – costs from $7,000 (Dh25,711) per person, including car hire (Toyota 4x4 or similar), but excluding international flights, with The Luxury Safari Company.
When to go
The cooler winter months, from June to September, are best, especially for game viewing.

Company profile

Name: Tratok Portal

Founded: 2017

Based: UAE

Sector: Travel & tourism

Size: 36 employees

Funding: Privately funded

Key facilities

Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
Premier League-standard football pitch
400m Olympic running track
NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
600-seat auditorium
Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
Specialist robotics and science laboratories
AR and VR-enabled learning centres
Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills

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Kareem Shaheen on Canada

Canada should look past the US election outcome

There would be no Alphonso Davies without open borders

Hard-hit Canada is springing back to life – or to the already cliched 'new normal'

Dubai Bling season three

Cast: Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Farhana Bodi, Ebraheem Al Samadi, Mona Kattan, and couples Safa & Fahad Siddiqui and DJ Bliss & Danya Mohammed

Rating: 1/5

Barbie

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MORE FROM ED HUSAIN: The UAE-Israel accord is a win for every Muslim

How to avoid crypto fraud

Use unique usernames and passwords while enabling multi-factor authentication.
Use an offline private key, a physical device that requires manual activation, whenever you access your wallet.
Avoid suspicious social media ads promoting fraudulent schemes.
Only invest in crypto projects that you fully understand.
Critically assess whether a project’s promises or returns seem too good to be true.
Only use reputable platforms that have a track record of strong regulatory compliance.
Store funds in hardware wallets as opposed to online exchanges.

COMPANY%20PROFILE%20

%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAlmouneer%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202017%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dr%20Noha%20Khater%20and%20Rania%20Kadry%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EEgypt%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E120%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBootstrapped%2C%20with%20support%20from%20Insead%20and%20Egyptian%20government%2C%20seed%20round%20of%20%3Cbr%3E%243.6%20million%20led%20by%20Global%20Ventures%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A

Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)

Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi

Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi

Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai

Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi

Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia

How to donate

Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200

Pataal Lok season two

Directors: Avinash Arun, Prosit Roy

Stars: Jaideep Ahlawat, Ishwak Singh, Lc Sekhose, Merenla Imsong

Rating: 4.5/5

So what is Spicy Chickenjoy?

Just as McDonald’s has the Big Mac, Jollibee has Spicy Chickenjoy – a piece of fried chicken that’s crispy and spicy on the outside and comes with a side of spaghetti, all covered in tomato sauce and topped with sausage slices and ground beef. It sounds like a recipe that a child would come up with, but perhaps that’s the point – a flavourbomb combination of cheap comfort foods. Chickenjoy is Jollibee’s best-selling product in every country in which it has a presence.