The National's Taste Test series takes you inside the latest restaurants just before they open their doors, and ask chefs what dishes they would recommend – and what makes them special – for you to try (or, indeed, avoid).
Here is a preview of the menu at Chouchou, a French-inspired beach house that opens at J1 Beach on Thursday.
Inside Chouchou
There's been a lot of anticipation around J1 Beach, which replaces a massive chunk of La Mer, swapping casual dining spots with about a dozen high-end beachfront restaurants – one of which is the membership-only beach club and eatery Chouchou.
Stepping inside, a sense of tranquility is palpable. The decor is chic yet relaxed, its earthy tones – sand beiges, soft greens and warm terracottas – are complemented by wicker and rattan accents that channel the laid-back sophistication of a classic French Riviera retreat. It feels at once fresh and timeless.
Natural light floods the room through expansive windows, casting tables into its bright glow in the daytime and offering a glimpse of the outdoor terrace, which is my favourite part of the venue. It's an idyllic extension of the venue's relaxed elegance, furnished with comfortable dining sets that overlook the pool and the beach. Beachside seating is on comfy sofas rather than traditional sunbeds, while white wooden cabanas line up on one side for those who want more privacy.
Chouchou's USP, however, is its exclusivity – it's the only private beach club along the J1 Beach strip. Only members can access the pool and the beach, as well as the expansive second level of the restaurant. Membership rates start at Dh15,500 per person per year, with other packages available for couples and families. Members can bring up to three guests, who pay for a day-pass fee, from Dh250.
“Where do you go if you want to go to an uncrowded beach at any moment? This is really what we thought a lot about when thinking about opening Chouchou,” says Tessa Horovitz, one of the four co-founders. “Our answer to that is curating a community, hence the exclusivity. It's about allowing for more comfort in an exclusive space.”
Horovitz explains that joining Chouchou entails a “thoughtful vetting process”, where prospective members undergo a selective application to earn their place. This intentional approach allows the team to cultivate a community of like-minded individuals and ensure an atmosphere that’s not only exclusive, but harmonious too.
Members also get discounts on food and drinks, receive invitations to private events and have access to a dedicated concierge to tailor every visit.
Non-members, meanwhile, can get a taste of Chouchou via the restaurant, which serves homey French food. Fresh from Martinique himself, chef Valentin Bernigaud channels everything he's learnt about old French cooking, now adjusted to to the international Dubai palate. Here are four dishes he recommends for your first visit.
Eclat de caviar
While caviar is a fixture in Dubai's high-end restaurant scene, Bernigaud believes it's not always used wisely, pairing it with other “strong ingredients” such as in sushi, for example. “The caviar needs something flat, in terms of flavour profile, just to support and complement it.”
Taste test: The rich Baeri caviar shines in this appetiser, with the subtle flavour of the tart serving as a perfect base. These dishes rely mostly on excellent sourcing of ingredients, which can be a challenge for new restaurants, but Chouchou's caviar hits that perfect briny spot. The dish is both luxurious and comforting, and an ideal start to a sharing-style meal.
La fleur d'artichaut
“This is my favourite salad, and it's a people favourite too, so far since our soft opening,” says the chef. “We cook the whole artichoke after removing its heart and open it to make a hollow centre. We put green beans, mushrooms and some of the artichoke hearts. The dressing is light and infused with truffle water, and it's topped with truffle shavings too.”
Taste test: The dish is beautifully presented and delicately seasoned, with the aromatic truffle vinaigrette infusing each bite with a rich, earthy depth. Truffle tends to overpower other ingredients in a dish, but this salad is feels indulgent, yet sits light on the stomach, with the crunch of the green beans providing the necessary freshness. This is not for someone who is averse to the smell or taste of truffle, though.
Soupe a l’oignon
“When I was just starting my career, I worked at a small but popular cafe in Paris where I learnt this classic recipe. It's the best onion soup I've ever tried,” says Bernigaud. “Even in France, you can get bad onion soup because of the ingredients they use, for example, using oil instead of butter to make it cheaper,” he adds, saying that Chouchou's onion soup is replete with generous amounts of butter, and the best quality stock and cheese.
Taste test: Bernigaud's version features a rich, deeply caramelised onion base simmered to bring out its natural sweetness and layered with robust flavours. Topped with a golden, bubbling layer of Comte cheese and tender onions, each spoonful offers a satisfying blend of savoury broth and melted dairy goodness. It's a heartwarming choice that epitomises French comfort food, and it's my favourite dish of this meal.
Tresor de Saint Pierre
“The meat of john dory, or Saint Pierre in France, can be hard and thick, so this needs delicate cooking. I put olive oil before searing one side of it for three minutes, then take it off the grill and let it finish on the rack. It's served with whelks, soft-boiled quail eggs and some vegetables. It's one of our lighter main courses,” says the chef.
Taste test: Technique is the highlight of this dish, with the glistening john dory exquisitely flaky to touch and taste. The subtle garlic aioli works well too, with the fish complemented by a saffron-tinted rouille sauce that adds depth of flavour. The briny whelks bring a hint of the sea, while the vibrant steamed vegetables add both colour and a crisp contrast.
Millefeuille a la vanille de Madagascar
“Sugar is not a main component in this dessert. We keep it light and allow the vanilla to shine, served on crisp layers of pastry,” explains Bernigaud of his top dessert recommendation at Chouchou.
Taste test: The layers of the crisp, buttery pastry are light and delicate, providing the ideal contrast to the velvety, smooth vanilla cream filling. The cream has a deep, natural sweetness that lingers on the palate, but it remains perfectly light in the mouth. My ultimate test for a good dessert is if I can finish the entire plate without feeling guilty. I do.
