The best advice Cindy Chao has to offer aspiring jewellery designers hoping to follow in her footsteps is to not become jewellery designers.
"Don't do it," she says wryly, her face deadpan, from a small room tucked away behind her stand at March's European Fine Art Fair.
"Not because I’m afraid of competition or want to stop talent, but it’s a really heavy investment. It’s not all glory, you know."
As true as her words may be, in the 15 years since starting her namesake label, Chao, 45, has been doused in acclaim. The Taiwanese jeweller, who founded Cindy Chao The Art Jewel in 2004, has seen her pieces adorn more than just the necks of some of Hollywood's elite, such as Sarah Jessica Parker. The designer has had her work inducted into some of the world's most prestigious galleries and museums, including the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris's Palais du Louvre and the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington DC.
Indeed, such recognition epitomises the nature of Chao's designs, which delicately straddle a tightrope between jewellery and artwork, a freedom she has without the "burden" of working for a centuries-old maison.
"A good designer can just design something that you can sell to market. A good artist is very adventurous, very advanced," she muses from Tefaf, where 2020 marked the second year she was invited to showcase among only six jewellery brands at the Maastricht fair.
"So you tell me," she commandingly requests as she sips a coffee, crossing her black-suited legs, after being asked if she identifies more as an artist or designer.
After seeing the pieces that make up her Tefaf display, lit from just-so angles so that the brilliant gemstones seem to coyly wink upon catching your gaze, it is an easier question to answer.
The Green Plumule Brooch and Earrings, for example, taken from Chao's Black Label Masterpiece collection, are clearly works of art that just so happen to be crafted in emeralds rather than oils or paints. The brooch alone comprises 172.58 carats of emeralds, which dance across a titanium base like a feather blowing in the breeze. It's Chao's favourite piece from the five new creations she showcased at Tefaf – she even made a picture of it the screensaver on her phone, she reveals with a smile. The earrings, meanwhile, are centred around a two pear-shaped Colombian emeralds totalling 90 carats, a double act that Chao acquired a decade ago and has been waiting to use.
"It’s more courageous than ever," Chao says of her most recent work. "My craftsman was making fun of me when I threw the Colombian emeralds on the feather – he looked at me like you have no mercy at all, hey, and I was like, 'no'."
That headstrong approach might just be why the formidable Chao has her work displayed at Tefaf, alongside the stands of generations-old jewellers such as Van Cleef & Arpels.
She is a woman who hears the word no, and just carries on.
"At the time we were building it, I fought with my French guy so bad," she says of her Winter Leaves Necklace, a piece embedded with 6,000 diamonds to look like a wisp of foliage bedecked in frost. The necklaces, three years in the making, was named Best Jewellery Piece at 2019's Masterpiece London Highlight.
"First, I never compromise, and second, I really tried to push them to the limit," she recalls of working with her French manufacturing team, who have been with her since the beginning. "The detail isn't right? Then start again. It was so hard, in terms of craftsmanship and engineering, I really pushed them. It’s hard to visualise something that hasn’t existed before.
"My craftsman was like, 'Cindy Chao, I’ve had enough, don’t call me for two months'. One week later, he called me, like, 'what we should do next?'"
Her pieces, which are valued within the millions, do not litter the jewellery boxes of the many, but Chao is quick to point out this is not a commercial decision.
"Some people say Cindy Chao only serves the billionaires and it’s not because we’re snobbish, we just don’t make mass production," she says. "I’m not saying I’m the best, we’re just different. Actually, I really try to cut down on production, to make it even more exclusive in terms of every detail. I think nowadays, a lot of brands really lack the quality."
It is that perseverance and focus on calibre that Chao credits with helping her label, still emerging by jewellery standards, become a pioneer of the industry. The designer, who is from a family of architects and sculptors rather than fellow jewellers launched the brand with her own money. Just three years after opening her Taipei showroom, she became the first Taiwanese jeweller to be included in Christie’s New York fine jewellery auction. Another three years, and the Smithsonian came calling.
Some people say Cindy Chao only serves the billionaires and it's not because we're snobbish, we just don't make mass production
"A lot of people say look Cindy, it’s only 15 years, you’ve achieved so much – but every single day was like everybody else’s 72 hours. I really pushed myself hard and pushed my team," she says. "I’m not saying that just because you work hard you will get results but I think we are very fortunate and we really did just that."
A moment of realisation came when her 2008 ruby butterfly brooch was inducted into the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in January 2020 as a permanent exhibition.
"When the chairman of Christie’s turns to you and says, 'gosh, you must be so proud of yourself' and I look at this room and it’s all big maisons, big names with more than 100 years ..." she pauses and sighs. "You are the only female, Asian jeweller and your name is next to them."
Those words – female, Asian – have come to somewhat define Chao over the years, with the jeweller often touted as the first jewellery designer in that bracket to break industry records. But does is such achievement weighted down with the pressure of expectation?
"I do feel a responsibility," she admits," but no pressure, because I never set the goal of wanting to be in the spotlight. If you really look at my past 15 years, I always push the brand, not me.
"But now I am opening up a lot more and letting people get to know me. I want to be an influence for the younger generation, to show them, 'oh, an Asian can achieve this much in the western luxury industry'."
But despite the continued recognition of her peers, Chao is determined not to rest on her laurels.
"I’m always trying to outdo myself," she says, arching a brow as she admits she's found a new confidence within as her brand approached its milestone 15th anniversary.
"I can’t say it’s a midlife crisis, but there's something different inside me. I’m going through a transformation stage in terms of creativity and as a person, too. You’re much more mature, you know what you’re capable of and what you’re not capable of. That’s why I say I so much enjoy my age now. When I’m facing something now, I really embrace it."
While Chao might be embracing a renaissance of sorts, revealing that the next 15 years will be all about growing the brand – starting with a soon-to-open showroom in London – she does have one eye on the door.
I say to my team, use me as much as you can for the next 10 or 15 years. No one stays forever, and I won't
"The pinnacle period is coming. I’m in such a good position – age, maturity, resource – I say to my team, use me as much as you can for the next 10 or 15 years," she smiles. "No one stays forever, and I won’t."
Chao might be thinking of an eventual exit plan but underneath her steely demeanour, she positively hums with energy, like an electrified barricade. It is hard to believe she will be able to switch that off and ease into a quiet retirement.
"No, the creativity never goes away," she acknowledges. "Actually, I think persistence is the best advice I would give to the younger generation. When people ask me what is the key to building a successful brand, I always say that when everybody else gives up, you stay.
"Nowadays, the younger generation are of this attitude, they easily get frustrated with the challenges they are facing. If you give up, you just don’t have a chance. The one who stays until the last wins."
And Chao, it is safe to say, is no defeatist.
MATCH INFO
Inter Milan v Juventus
Saturday, 10.45pm (UAE)
Watch the match on BeIN Sports
Trump v Khan
2016: Feud begins after Khan criticised Trump’s proposed Muslim travel ban to US
2017: Trump criticises Khan’s ‘no reason to be alarmed’ response to London Bridge terror attacks
2019: Trump calls Khan a “stone cold loser” before first state visit
2019: Trump tweets about “Khan’s Londonistan”, calling him “a national disgrace”
2022: Khan’s office attributes rise in Islamophobic abuse against the major to hostility stoked during Trump’s presidency
July 2025 During a golfing trip to Scotland, Trump calls Khan “a nasty person”
Sept 2025 Trump blames Khan for London’s “stabbings and the dirt and the filth”.
Dec 2025 Trump suggests migrants got Khan elected, calls him a “horrible, vicious, disgusting mayor”
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Carzaty%2C%20now%20Kavak%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ELaunch%20year%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ECarzaty%20launched%20in%202018%2C%20Kavak%20in%20the%20GCC%20launched%20in%202022%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20140%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Automotive%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ECarzaty%20raised%20%246m%20in%20equity%20and%20%244m%20in%20debt%3B%20Kavak%20plans%20%24130m%20investment%20in%20the%20GCC%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
WHAT%20IS%20THE%20LICENSING%20PROCESS%20FOR%20VARA%3F
%3Cp%3EVara%20will%20cater%20to%20three%20categories%20of%20companies%20in%20Dubai%20(except%20the%20DIFC)%3A%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECategory%20A%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Minimum%20viable%20product%20(MVP)%20applicants%20that%20are%20currently%20in%20the%20process%20of%20securing%20an%20MVP%20licence%3A%20This%20is%20a%20three-stage%20process%20starting%20with%20%5B1%5D%20a%20provisional%20permit%2C%20graduating%20to%20%5B2%5D%20preparatory%20licence%20and%20concluding%20with%20%5B3%5D%20operational%20licence.%20Applicants%20that%20are%20already%20in%20the%20MVP%20process%20will%20be%20advised%20by%20Vara%20to%20either%20continue%20within%20the%20MVP%20framework%20or%20be%20transitioned%20to%20the%20full%20market%20product%20licensing%20process.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECategory%20B%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Existing%20legacy%20virtual%20asset%20service%20providers%20prior%20to%20February%207%2C%202023%2C%20which%20are%20required%20to%20come%20under%20Vara%20supervision.%20All%20operating%20service%20proviers%20in%20Dubai%20(excluding%20the%20DIFC)%20fall%20under%20Vara%E2%80%99s%20supervision.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECategory%20C%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20New%20applicants%20seeking%20a%20Vara%20licence%20or%20existing%20applicants%20adding%20new%20activities.%20All%20applicants%20that%20do%20not%20fall%20under%20Category%20A%20or%20B%20can%20begin%20the%20application%20process%20through%20their%20current%20or%20prospective%20commercial%20licensor%20%E2%80%94%20the%20DET%20or%20Free%20Zone%20Authority%20%E2%80%94%20or%20directly%20through%20Vara%20in%20the%20instance%20that%20they%20have%20yet%20to%20determine%20the%20commercial%20operating%20zone%20in%20Dubai.%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E6.5-litre%20V12%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E725hp%20at%207%2C750rpm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E716Nm%20at%206%2C250rpm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E8-speed%20dual-clutch%20auto%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EQ4%202023%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh1%2C650%2C000%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors
Power: Combined output 920hp
Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km
On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025
Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000
Company Profile
Founder: Omar Onsi
Launched: 2018
Employees: 35
Financing stage: Seed round ($12 million)
Investors: B&Y, Phoenician Funds, M1 Group, Shorooq Partners
The five pillars of Islam
1. Fasting
2. Prayer
3. Hajj
4. Shahada
5. Zakat
Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor Cricket World Cup - Sept 16-20, Insportz, Dubai
16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side
8 There are eight players per team
9 There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.
5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls
4 Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership
Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.
Zones
A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs
B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run
C Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs
D Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full
Racecard
6.30pm: The Madjani Stakes (PA) Group 3 Dh175,000 (Dirt) 1,900m
7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 (D) 1,400m
7.40pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 (D) 1,600m
8.15pm: Handicap (TB) Dh190,000 (D) 1,200m
8.50pm: Dubai Creek Mile (TB) Listed Dh265,000 (D) 1,600m
9.25pm: Handicap (TB) Dh190,000 (D) 1,600m
The National selections
6.30pm: Chaddad
7.05pm: Down On Da Bayou
7.40pm: Mass Media
8.15pm: Rafal
8.50pm: Yulong Warrior
9.25pm: Chiefdom
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Classification of skills
A worker is categorised as skilled by the MOHRE based on nine levels given in the International Standard Classification of Occupations (ISCO) issued by the International Labour Organisation.
A skilled worker would be someone at a professional level (levels 1 – 5) which includes managers, professionals, technicians and associate professionals, clerical support workers, and service and sales workers.
The worker must also have an attested educational certificate higher than secondary or an equivalent certification, and earn a monthly salary of at least Dh4,000.
Desert Warrior
Starring: Anthony Mackie, Aiysha Hart, Ben Kingsley
Director: Rupert Wyatt
Rating: 3/5
UK’s AI plan
- AI ambassadors such as MIT economist Simon Johnson, Monzo cofounder Tom Blomfield and Google DeepMind’s Raia Hadsell
- £10bn AI growth zone in South Wales to create 5,000 jobs
- £100m of government support for startups building AI hardware products
- £250m to train new AI models
Wicked: For Good
Director: Jon M Chu
Starring: Ariana Grande, Cynthia Erivo, Jonathan Bailey, Jeff Goldblum, Michelle Yeoh, Ethan Slater
Rating: 4/5
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Past winners of the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix
2016 Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2015 Nico Rosberg (Mercedes-GP)
2014 Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2013 Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
2012 Kimi Raikkonen (Lotus)
2011 Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
2010 Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
2009 Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
Who's who in Yemen conflict
Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government
Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council
Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south
Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory
Like a Fading Shadow
Antonio Muñoz Molina
Translated from the Spanish by Camilo A. Ramirez
Tuskar Rock Press (pp. 310)
