Whoever was behind the edit for the Versace for H&M collection was particularly clued up on current fashion, as well as the Versace archive. Both sort of overlap right now.
In true 2011 style, accessories far outnumbered the actual clothes, meanwhile the best-selling items have turned out to be "power" jackets, and printed silk scarves. Both are legacies of the late, great Gianni Versace who used them to "feminise" the ugly, mannish jackets that had started to creep into women's wardrobes circa 1989-1990.
Historically, it was Giorgio Armani who ripped the linings out of men's jackets in order to offer a solution to women who required a jacket for work (he also helpfully threw in trousers as a potential bottom half); but it was Versace – always a master at reading women's minds – who tweaked the shape of men's jackets, added quirky military touches such as shiny gold buttons and palm tree prints in linings, along with girly suggestions of what to team jackets with: printed leggings, short, tight pencil skirts and, of course, very high strappy heels.
The result was a mainstream fashion look that had nothing to do with the rise of female emancipation or what you might wear to the office, but was absolutely fabulous nonetheless.
The other week I went to a preview of Meryl Streep's latest movie The Iron Lady, which goes on general release early next year. The subject of the film, the one-time British prime minister Margaret Thatcher, reminded me just how much her jackets, like all women's "business" jackets of the time, were such a literal take on what the Japanese might eloquently call the top half of Mr "salaryman".
Mrs T's cartoonish nods towards femininity – the ladylike scarf, pussy bow blouse and big earrings – did little to help the cause of women struggling to smash the glass ceiling of male-dominated executivism, but they did miraculously make it on to the fashion radar.
I recently met several high-powered, high-earning female executives who have to wear smart business suits or at least jackets every day for work. Their choice of jacket is equally neutral veering on masculine; using instead tools such as shoes, bags, scarves, jewellery and hairstyles to hint at their fashion prowess.
I would argue that looking "like one of the boys" has never actually been the point of a power jacket. These remain neutral centrepieces for women to work their own style – or the fashion of the day – around.
This makes them the "bread and butter" of any designer collection and a linchpin of a designer's greatness. Coco Chanel is testimony to her jackets far more than her most famous discovery: the Little Black Dress. Versace being remembered for his jackets is considered an equal feat.
The Iron Lady lets you make up your own mind about whether the steely Thatcher ever had anything as frivolous as fashion on her agenda. She was, however, clearly image-conscious, stamping on anything that might hint at the traditional weakness of women while clinging to what she personally believed was crucial to her success.
In one early scene she is advised by spin doctors to lower her vocal tone and ditch her hat and pearls. To which she growls in a passive aggressive voice that makes them physically wince, "the pearls are absolutely non-negotiable". A role model for Sarah Palin, no doubt.
The notion that Lady Thatcher was a woman in a man's world is not the only thing I came away with. Whenever she strayed into tweed (which hinted bizarrely at a Miuccia Prada look), you clearly see the roots of the familiar boxy 1980s power jacket, which is all over the high street.
How do you wear your power jacket today? A little like in the early 1990s, funnily enough, with a printed silk scarf or blouse, or a ladylike pencil skirt, preferably in polka dots or a cute print.
Belts, another early 1990s stalwart – Versace originals go for a fortune – are back in fashion, as are "Versace" neon brights and prints. Wide belts go over a longer length, skinny ones cinch in a printed dress under a cropped jacket.
Designers such as Henry Holland have been instrumental in weaning the younger generation off boyfriend jackets and on to styles that are more ladylike. Two of his current styles, a cropped soft leather motocross biker jacket with studs, and a double-breasted "bandstand" blazer with gold buttons, are very Versace indeed.
If you missed the H&M collaboration, look no further. House of Holland has even supplied the ubiquitous bottom half for teenagers and pop stars: shorts. And short skirts. Thatcher would definitely not approve. I'm thinking Versace would, though.
artslife@thenational.ae
From Zero
Artist: Linkin Park
Label: Warner Records
Number of tracks: 11
Rating: 4/5
Sri Lanka-India Test series schedule
- 1st Test India won by 304 runs at Galle
- 2nd Test Thursday-Monday at Colombo
- 3rd Test August 12-16 at Pallekele
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Qyubic
Started: October 2023
Founder: Namrata Raina
Based: Dubai
Sector: E-commerce
Current number of staff: 10
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Initial investment: Undisclosed
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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What is blockchain?
Blockchain is a form of distributed ledger technology, a digital system in which data is recorded across multiple places at the same time. Unlike traditional databases, DLTs have no central administrator or centralised data storage. They are transparent because the data is visible and, because they are automatically replicated and impossible to be tampered with, they are secure.
The main difference between blockchain and other forms of DLT is the way data is stored as ‘blocks’ – new transactions are added to the existing ‘chain’ of past transactions, hence the name ‘blockchain’. It is impossible to delete or modify information on the chain due to the replication of blocks across various locations.
Blockchain is mostly associated with cryptocurrency Bitcoin. Due to the inability to tamper with transactions, advocates say this makes the currency more secure and safer than traditional systems. It is maintained by a network of people referred to as ‘miners’, who receive rewards for solving complex mathematical equations that enable transactions to go through.
However, one of the major problems that has come to light has been the presence of illicit material buried in the Bitcoin blockchain, linking it to the dark web.
Other blockchain platforms can offer things like smart contracts, which are automatically implemented when specific conditions from all interested parties are reached, cutting the time involved and the risk of mistakes. Another use could be storing medical records, as patients can be confident their information cannot be changed. The technology can also be used in supply chains, voting and has the potential to used for storing property records.
Citadel: Honey Bunny first episode
Directors: Raj & DK
Stars: Varun Dhawan, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Kashvi Majmundar, Kay Kay Menon
Rating: 4/5
Aayan%E2%80%99s%20records
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More coverage from the Future Forum
If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.
When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.
How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
Company%20Profile
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THE DEALS
Hamilton $60m x 2 = $120m
Vettel $45m x 2 = $90m
Ricciardo $35m x 2 = $70m
Verstappen $55m x 3 = $165m
Leclerc $20m x 2 = $40m
TOTAL $485m
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
Disclaimer
Director: Alfonso Cuaron
Stars: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Kline, Lesley Manville
Rating: 4/5
Company%20Profile
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Dengue%20fever%20symptoms
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Tips for taking the metro
- set out well ahead of time
- make sure you have at least Dh15 on you Nol card, as there could be big queues for top-up machines
- enter the right cabin. The train may be too busy to move between carriages once you're on
- don't carry too much luggage and tuck it under a seat to make room for fellow passengers
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Name: Brendalle Belaza
From: Crossing Rubber, Philippines
Arrived in the UAE: 2007
Favourite place in Abu Dhabi: NYUAD campus
Favourite photography style: Street photography
Favourite book: Harry Potter
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”