In Pakistan, Anam Mukri teamed up with underprivileged craftsmen to start her luxury handbag business, Zanbeel. Now in Dubai, she's looking to recreate her brand with local talent.
"It looks like easy, but not," Naila Yasmeen tells me, smiling widely.
We are gathered around a table in Yasmeen's cramped Al Qusais flat, surrounded by sheets of cardboard, multicoloured rulers, pencils, industrial-sized scissors and swathes of richly-coloured fabric. Under the guidance of Anam Mukri, the founder of Zanbeel, a bespoke, luxury bag brand, Yasmeen is learning how to transform this simple palette of materials into a beautifully-crafted clutch bag.
Yasmeen, it turns out, is brimming with entrepreneurial spirit. The unassuming 40-year old Pakistani has spent 20 years living in Dubai and is employed as a "henna lady" by a local tourism company, providing visitors to the emirate with a taste of local culture through her intricate, swirling designs. She is also a tailor by trade and, I am reliably informed, cooks a mean biryani, which has led to the odd, small-scale catering job of cooking hearty lunches for local office workers. "I make jewellery too," she says, showing me a plastic box full of beads and other trinkets. So when she was approached by Mukri to add bag-making to her repertoire of skills, she jumped at the chance.
"I asked her why she wanted to work with me and she said it was her dream to send her eldest son to college so he can study, but she can't. That sealed it," Mukri says.
Mukri now visits Yasmeen's house two or three times a week to train her in the art of bag-making. They are joined by Saima Naddem, a fellow henna lady, who is also eager to learn this new trade. All three women are giving up their time for free, in the hope that once they have mastered the process, Yasmeen and Naddem will be able to pursue a new career creating bags under the Zanbeel brand.
The 28-year-old Mukri founded Zanbeel in her native Pakistan in 2007 and has made corporate social responsibility a cornerstone of the brand. Her intricate, high-end, handmade bags are now sold around the world, with stockists in Canada, Kenya and Hong Kong. There is also a webshop, www.zanbeel.net, where bags sell for between $200 (Dh735) and $500 (Dh1,836), and a Facebook page with more than 20,000 followers.
After studying textile design at the University of East London, Mukri worked at Harrods as part of the floor merchandising team, dealing with high-end, slightly eccentric brands such as Sonia Rykiel and Missoni. She also became increasingly involved in client styling and began to play around with the idea of creating an accessories brand of her own.
Mukri returned to Pakistan and set about establishing Zanbeel. "Zanbeel is actually the Persian word for basket, but that's not why I chose it. The word comes from a South Asian folktale - a saga of eight volumes about a hypnotist called Ummro Ayyar. He would steal things from people by hypnotising them, and store them in a pouch called a 'zanbeel'. The magical beauty of that pouch was that however much he stored in there, it always remained empty. I grew up fascinated by this whole concept - I wanted a zanbeel of my own. My mother would use this word often in everyday dialogue. She'd say, 'Why are you stuffing everything in my bag? It's a bag, not a zanbeel, it's going to get filled up'." Mukri's plan was to develop a Muslim brand that focused on quality and exclusivity, rather than mass production and commercialism, creating statement bags out of luxury materials such as satin silks and Swarovski crystals. The challenge was finding the right people to make them.
"Making fabric bags is very different to making leather bags," Mukri explains. "Fabric bags are very sensitive to touch. The minute the material gets stained, you can't do anything about it. You can't alter a bag, it's not like clothes, so it goes to waste. You have to be very careful and very sensitive. The margins of error are zero. If you make a mistake, that's it. You can't really go back on yourself."
Mukri's father recommended a skilled craftsman who had no experience with fabric bags but was honest, hardworking and in need of work. Mukri spent six months training him in her workshop in the suburbs of Karachi. "We both learnt together. That summer, I went to London and did a private course in bag making. And then I returned to find that he had developed his own skills, through practice and using his own initiative. We hit a jackpot when we started making our handmade box bags, which were previously only made in China or Italy.
"We started making them by hand in Pakistan. Our speciality was that we also did custom-made designs. Brides-to-be were our biggest clients and they loved the fact that everything could be made according to their specifications. We could also turn things around very quickly, which helped."
The duo started experimenting with new shapes and techniques and kept a close eye on fashion trends to ensure that they remained ahead of the game. They started bringing out four collections a year, with around 15 bags in each collection. The only problem was that Mukri's sole employee had to commute for two hours each day to get to the workshop, which was becoming increasingly problematic.
"He also had to look after his ailing wife and eight children. So we decided that in order to facilitate him, we would move the workshop nearer to his home, which was in Korangi, one of the most troubled areas in Karachi. That enabled him to look after his wife and children and I saw the change it made to his life. He was happier and looking healthier and that all influenced his work. The end result was that the quality of the bags he was making improved by one hundred per cent. We hired more people and this obviously had an impact on their lives as well."
The workshop remained in operation until four months ago, when the newly-married Mukri moved to Dubai. Now she is looking to rebuild the business here, using the same basic model of employing people from underprivileged backgrounds. "If you empower your employees, they are going to empower you, and I've experienced that first hand with my employees in Pakistan. Obviously, it can be a challenge finding the right people. It is not just about finding people from low-income backgrounds or who are underprivileged; it's about getting the right people on your team. I was telling someone that I wanted to do this and they introduced me to Naila. She is hardworking and reliable and as enthusiastic about this as I am."
One of the other key challenges that Mukri faces is finding the materials that she needs to create her bags. "I can't find the right glue and I can't find the right cardboard in Dubai. We use three different kinds of weighted cardboard for the bags and so it's really important that you use exactly the right quality and the right weight."
The next task will be finding a permanent workshop. "We have talked about building a whole team. We also want to work with women who do crochet and embroidery. There are wives of labourers living in Dubai who are obviously living in very destitute conditions but they know how to do this beautiful crochet and traditional embroidery, so I want to use that, along with the crystals."
Mukri is currently contacting organisations like the Sharjah Business Council to see if they would be interested in working with her, and the Dubai Community Theatre & Arts Centre (Ductac) and the Dubai Ladies Club to see if they would be interested in adding bag-making lessons to their roster of events. She is also running private bag-making classes for individual clients.
Back in Al Qusais, the ladies are starting a new bag from scratch. The process begins with a simple sketch, which is then carefully measured out on to a thin piece of card. They do the body of the bag first, then the flap and, finally, the gusset. Getting the measurements absolutely right is the hardest part, Yasmeen tells me, pushing back the sleeves of her abaya and hunching over her ruler. "It's like going back to your basic geometry class," Mukri laughs. "It's essential that you check each measurement three or four times."
The women work in unison, chatting away happily as their children run in and out of the room. Once the dimensions are perfect, they are transferred onto a thicker piece of card, and then traced out on to pieces of foam and fabric.
Then all the elements are attached, using non-toxic glue, and the decorative elements are added. The difference between success and failure lies in the tiniest of degrees and millimetres.
It might "look like easy" but it's certainly not.
sdenman@thenational.ae
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 240hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 390Nm at 3,000rpm
Transmission: eight-speed auto
Price: from Dh122,745
On sale: now
Brave CF 27 fight card
Welterweight:
Abdoul Abdouraguimov (champion, FRA) v Jarrah Al Selawe (JOR)
Lightweight:
Anas Siraj Mounir (TUN) v Alex Martinez (CAN)
Welterweight:
Mzwandile Hlongwa (RSA) v Khamzat Chimaev (SWE)
Middleweight:
Tarek Suleiman (SYR) v Rustam Chsiev (RUS)
Mohammad Fakhreddine (LEB) v Christofer Silva (BRA)
Super lightweight:
Alex Nacfur (BRA) v Dwight Brooks (USA)
Bantamweight:
Jalal Al Daaja (JOR) v Tariq Ismail (CAN)
Chris Corton (PHI) v Zia Mashwani (PAK)
Featherweight:
Sulaiman (KUW) v Abdullatip (RUS)
Super lightweight:
Flavio Serafin (BRA) v Mohammad Al Katib (JOR)
The specs
Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors
Power: 480kW
Torque: 850Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)
On sale: Now
If you go:
The flights: Etihad, Emirates, British Airways and Virgin all fly from the UAE to London from Dh2,700 return, including taxes
The tours: The Tour for Muggles usually runs several times a day, lasts about two-and-a-half hours and costs £14 (Dh67)
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child is on now at the Palace Theatre. Tickets need booking significantly in advance
Entrance to the Harry Potter exhibition at the House of MinaLima is free
The hotel: The grand, 1909-built Strand Palace Hotel is in a handy location near the Theatre District and several of the key Harry Potter filming and inspiration sites. The family rooms are spacious, with sofa beds that can accommodate children, and wooden shutters that keep out the light at night. Rooms cost from £170 (Dh808).
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
THE BIO
Age: 30
Favourite book: The Power of Habit
Favourite quote: "The world is full of good people, if you cannot find one, be one"
Favourite exercise: The snatch
Favourite colour: Blue
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
The biog
Favourite pet: cats. She has two: Eva and Bito
Favourite city: Cape Town, South Africa
Hobby: Running. "I like to think I’m artsy but I’m not".
Favourite move: Romantic comedies, specifically Return to me. "I cry every time".
Favourite spot in Abu Dhabi: Saadiyat beach
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
Essentials
The flights: You can fly from the UAE to Iceland with one stop in Europe with a variety of airlines. Return flights with Emirates from Dubai to Stockholm, then Icelandair to Reykjavik, cost from Dh4,153 return. The whole trip takes 11 hours. British Airways flies from Abu Dhabi and Dubai to Reykjavik, via London, with return flights taking 12 hours and costing from Dh2,490 return, including taxes.
The activities: A half-day Silfra snorkelling trip costs 14,990 Icelandic kronur (Dh544) with Dive.is. Inside the Volcano also takes half a day and costs 42,000 kronur (Dh1,524). The Jokulsarlon small-boat cruise lasts about an hour and costs 9,800 kronur (Dh356). Into the Glacier costs 19,500 kronur (Dh708). It lasts three to four hours.
The tours: It’s often better to book a tailor-made trip through a specialist operator. UK-based Discover the World offers seven nights, self-driving, across the island from £892 (Dh4,505) per person. This includes three nights’ accommodation at Hotel Husafell near Into the Glacier, two nights at Hotel Ranga and two nights at the Icelandair Hotel Klaustur. It includes car rental, plus an iPad with itinerary and tourist information pre-loaded onto it, while activities can be booked as optional extras. More information inspiredbyiceland.com
How to donate
Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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What are the influencer academy modules?
- Mastery of audio-visual content creation.
- Cinematography, shots and movement.
- All aspects of post-production.
- Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
- Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
- Tourism industry knowledge.
- Professional ethics.
Gulf Under 19s final
Dubai College A 50-12 Dubai College B
SRI LANKS ODI SQUAD
Perera (capt), Mendis, Gunathilaka, de Silva, Nissanka, Shanaka, Bandara, Hasaranga, Udana, Dananjaya, Dickwella, Chameera, Mendis, Fernando, Sandakan, Karunaratne, Fernando, Fernando.
Who's who in Yemen conflict
Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government
Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council
Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south
Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory
Kanguva
Director: Siva
Stars: Suriya, Bobby Deol, Disha Patani, Yogi Babu, Redin Kingsley
MATCH INFO
Karnataka Tuskers 110-5 (10 ovs)
Tharanga 48, Shafiq 34, Rampaul 2-16
Delhi Bulls 91-8 (10 ovs)
Mathews 31, Rimmington 3-28
Karnataka Tuskers win by 19 runs
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
The%20Roundup
%3Cp%3EDirector%3A%20Lee%20Sang-yong%3Cbr%3EStars%3A%20Ma%20Dong-seok%2C%20Sukku%20Son%2C%20Choi%20Gwi-hwa%3Cbr%3ERating%3A%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Gender pay parity on track in the UAE
The UAE has a good record on gender pay parity, according to Mercer's Total Remuneration Study.
"In some of the lower levels of jobs women tend to be paid more than men, primarily because men are employed in blue collar jobs and women tend to be employed in white collar jobs which pay better," said Ted Raffoul, career products leader, Mena at Mercer. "I am yet to see a company in the UAE – particularly when you are looking at a blue chip multinationals or some of the bigger local companies – that actively discriminates when it comes to gender on pay."
Mr Raffoul said most gender issues are actually due to the cultural class, as the population is dominated by Asian and Arab cultures where men are generally expected to work and earn whereas women are meant to start a family.
"For that reason, we see a different gender gap. There are less women in senior roles because women tend to focus less on this but that’s not due to any companies having a policy penalising women for any reasons – it’s a cultural thing," he said.
As a result, Mr Raffoul said many companies in the UAE are coming up with benefit package programmes to help working mothers and the career development of women in general.
Fixtures
Wednesday
4.15pm: Japan v Spain (Group A)
5.30pm: UAE v Italy (Group A)
6.45pm: Russia v Mexico (Group B)
8pm: Iran v Egypt (Group B)
'Munich: The Edge of War'
Director: Christian Schwochow
Starring: George MacKay, Jannis Niewohner, Jeremy Irons
Rating: 3/5
A%20Little%20to%20the%20Left
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Milestones on the road to union
1970
October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar.
December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.
1971
March 1: Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.
July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.
July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.
August 6: The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.
August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.
September 3: Qatar becomes independent.
November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.
November 29: At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.
November 30: Despite a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa.
November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties
December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.
December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.
December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.
Quick pearls of wisdom
Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”
Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.”
SQUADS
South Africa:
JP Duminy (capt), Hashim Amla, Farhaan Behardien, Quinton de Kock (wkt), AB de Villiers, Robbie Frylinck, Beuran Hendricks, David Miller, Mangaliso Mosehle (wkt), Dane Paterson, Aaron Phangiso, Andile Phehlukwayo, Dwaine Pretorius, Tabraiz Shamsi
Bangladesh
Shakib Al Hasan (capt), Imrul Kayes, Liton Das (wkt), Mahmudullah, Mehidy Hasan, Mohammad Saifuddin, Mominul Haque, Mushfiqur Rahim (wkt), Nasir Hossain, Rubel Hossain, Sabbir Rahman, Shafiul Islam, Soumya Sarkar, Taskin Ahmed
Fixtures
Oct 26: Bloemfontein
Oct 29: Potchefstroom
The Sand Castle
Director: Matty Brown
Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea
Rating: 2.5/5
Kandahar%20
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