In July, Rami Al Ali made history. After years of showing off-calendar in Paris, the Syrian designer was formally invited by the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to join the official haute couture schedule. In doing so, he became the first Syrian fashion designer to claim the rarest of titles: haute couturier.
For Al Ali, sending his looks down the runway in Paris was both triumphant and unnerving. “I have always looked at the official calendar and the names on it and thought: ‘This is an institution, these old brands, it’s farfetched.’” While “proud and happy” to be included, he admits to being “a bit intimidated that the work now is going to be seen more widely. It’s a bigger audience and my work is going to be examined thoroughly.”
If there is a theme to Al Ali’s career, it is careful, deliberate progress. “Whatever I’ve done with the brand since its start, I’ve always progressed forward. Small steps, very carefully chosen,” he explains. “From now on, the plan and the strategy need to be studied really well.”
But the newfound recognition does not mean he’s in a rush to get anywhere. “Moving forward is going to be still as careful, cautious and smart as it was before,” he says, assuring both himself and his audience.
Al Ali first arrived in Dubai in 1996, intending to stop over in the city before continuing his studies in the United States. “I was working on the internship and the paperwork and all of that. I took a temporary job in one of the old fashion houses in Dubai,” he says, “and that gave me a bit of confidence to stay a little bit longer.” Decades later, he is part of the beating heart of the city’s creative scene.
What kept him here was timing. The city was just beginning its evolution into a global fashion hub, with luxury brands setting up a regional presence and international editors flying in. “The clients became jet-setters and most of the fashion press and international brands started coming to the region,” he says of Dubai’s emerging status as a hub. The market was hungry for a potential entrepreneur to start something. There was high demand, but there was not enough supply. By 2001, he had opened his own atelier in the city.
About two and a half decades later, with his new title comes responsibility. “When you say ‘the first Syrian designer’, it is already a responsibility that you’re going to present the creative industry of a whole country,” he says. “It makes you feel proud.”
It also means he joins the exclusive club of Arab couturiers – such as Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika and Mohammed Ashi of Ashi Studio – who, by carving out global recognition, created a lineage where none existed. “Graduating in 1995 and looking at the international landscape, I didn’t find an ideal who came from the same background. Someone who would give me hope to adjust my dreams to,” Al Ali remembers. “It was a low ceiling.”
Now, he hopes his own success can be the blueprint he once longed for. “It would give not only hope, but also a kind of manual for younger entrepreneurs, younger brands to look up to. And they will probably raise the bar.”
Al Ali knows better than to assume the role of gatekeeper. “Every day there’s younger talent that comes along that is cooler, edgier and more relevant.” But he believes the job of those who make it is to open doors. “I think it is our duty, when we get to certain places, to open those doors to the younger generation to make their dreams bigger.”
For Al Ali, couture is not only clothes, it is culture. “It’s a lifestyle. It is the ultimate luxury in the fashion industry. It represents the elite – not in terms of lifestyle, but in terms of taste.”
His latest collection draws directly from Syria – its crafts, its geometry and its overlooked history. “As always in my work, I go back to the craft, the artisan, the heritage. It is a permanent source of inspiration,” Al Ali explains. This season, however, he came with a special collaboration – a partnership with a Syrian organisation dedicated to archiving and restoring traditional craft.
“It is not only nostalgic, warm and very personal, but also a documentation of the identity that was lost and neglected over the past 12 or 13 years. Now we’re trying to restore it,” he says.
As we tour Al Ali’s Dubai atelier, the couture designer points to a look, with its geometric shapes inspired by Syrian mosaic and woodwork, punctuated with tassels for movement and modernity.
“It became a very strong reference. When you see it, immediately, you relate it to where it belongs,” he says.
As they say, you work for years and suddenly you’re an overnight success. Al Ali’s slow, steady and perfectly planned career means he now finds his name written beside Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga. A fact he finds surreal.
When asked if he has broken down some sort of gate that others can now get through behind him, Al Ali says: “I don’t think I’m the one who broke the gate, it’s my work. The creativity and authenticity of the work is what got their attention to put us next to those names.”
But this is only the beginning, the designer insists. “This is probably one of the major columns in building the brand globally. It’s a major one, but there are definitely still many other columns that need to come along with it to support going to the second floor, third floor and fourth floor in this high-rise building that we’re working in.”
Racecard
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How to apply for a drone permit
- Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
- Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
- Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
- Submit their request
What are the regulations?
- Fly it within visual line of sight
- Never over populated areas
- Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
- Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
- Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
- Should have a live feed of the drone flight
- Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
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Countries offering golden visas
UK
Innovator Founder Visa is aimed at those who can demonstrate relevant experience in business and sufficient investment funds to set up and scale up a new business in the UK. It offers permanent residence after three years.
Germany
Investing or establishing a business in Germany offers you a residence permit, which eventually leads to citizenship. The investment must meet an economic need and you have to have lived in Germany for five years to become a citizen.
Italy
The scheme is designed for foreign investors committed to making a significant contribution to the economy. Requires a minimum investment of €250,000 which can rise to €2 million.
Switzerland
Residence Programme offers residence to applicants and their families through economic contributions. The applicant must agree to pay an annual lump sum in tax.
Canada
Start-Up Visa Programme allows foreign entrepreneurs the opportunity to create a business in Canada and apply for permanent residence.
The biog
First Job: Abu Dhabi Department of Petroleum in 1974
Current role: Chairperson of Al Maskari Holding since 2008
Career high: Regularly cited on Forbes list of 100 most powerful Arab Businesswomen
Achievement: Helped establish Al Maskari Medical Centre in 1969 in Abu Dhabi’s Western Region
Future plan: Will now concentrate on her charitable work
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RESULTS
Bantamweight title:
Vinicius de Oliveira (BRA) bt Xavier Alaoui (MAR)
(KO round 2)
Catchweight 68kg:
Sean Soriano (USA) bt Noad Lahat (ISR)
(TKO round 1)
Middleweight:
Denis Tiuliulin (RUS) bt Juscelino Ferreira (BRA)
(TKO round 1)
Lightweight:
Anas Siraj Mounir (MAR) bt Joachim Tollefsen (DEN)
(Unanimous decision)
Catchweight 68kg:
Austin Arnett (USA) bt Daniel Vega (MEX)
(TKO round 3)
Lightweight:
Carrington Banks (USA) bt Marcio Andrade (BRA)
(Unanimous decision)
Catchweight 58kg:
Corinne Laframboise (CAN) bt Malin Hermansson (SWE)
(Submission round 2)
Bantamweight:
Jalal Al Daaja (CAN) bt Juares Dea (CMR)
(Split decision)
Middleweight:
Mohamad Osseili (LEB) bt Ivan Slynko (UKR)
(TKO round 1)
Featherweight:
Tarun Grigoryan (ARM) bt Islam Makhamadjanov (UZB)
(Unanimous decision)
Catchweight 54kg:
Mariagiovanna Vai (ITA) bt Daniella Shutov (ISR)
(Submission round 1)
Middleweight:
Joan Arastey (ESP) bt Omran Chaaban (LEB)
(Unanimous decision)
Welterweight:
Bruno Carvalho (POR) bt Souhil Tahiri (ALG)
(TKO)
At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
CHATGPT%20ENTERPRISE%20FEATURES
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The schedule
December 5 - 23: Shooting competition, Al Dhafra Shooting Club
December 9 - 24: Handicrafts competition, from 4pm until 10pm, Heritage Souq
December 11 - 20: Dates competition, from 4pm
December 12 - 20: Sour milk competition
December 13: Falcon beauty competition
December 14 and 20: Saluki races
December 15: Arabian horse races, from 4pm
December 16 - 19: Falconry competition
December 18: Camel milk competition, from 7.30 - 9.30 am
December 20 and 21: Sheep beauty competition, from 10am
December 22: The best herd of 30 camels
8 traditional Jamaican dishes to try at Kingston 21
- Trench Town Rock: Jamaican-style curry goat served in a pastry basket with a carrot and potato garnish
- Rock Steady Jerk Chicken: chicken marinated for 24 hours and slow-cooked on the grill
- Mento Oxtail: flavoured oxtail stewed for five hours with herbs
- Ackee and salt fish: the national dish of Jamaica makes for a hearty breakfast
- Jamaican porridge: another breakfast favourite, can be made with peanut, cornmeal, banana and plantain
- Jamaican beef patty: a pastry with ground beef filling
- Hellshire Pon di Beach: Fresh fish with pickles
- Out of Many: traditional sweet potato pudding
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
More about Middle East geopolitics
What vitamins do we know are beneficial for living in the UAE
Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.
Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.
Iron: Useful only when deficiency or anaemia is confirmed; helps reduce fatigue and support immunity.
Omega-3 (EPA/DHA): Supports heart health and reduces inflammation, especially for those who consume little fish.
The%20specs
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'Operation Mincemeat'
Director: John Madden
Cast: Colin Firth, Matthew Macfayden, Kelly Macdonald and Penelope Wilton
Rating: 4/5
Green ambitions
- Trees: 1,500 to be planted, replacing 300 felled ones, with veteran oaks protected
- Lake: Brown's centrepiece to be cleaned of silt that makes it as shallow as 2.5cm
- Biodiversity: Bat cave to be added and habitats designed for kingfishers and little grebes
- Flood risk: Longer grass, deeper lake, restored ponds and absorbent paths all meant to siphon off water
Quick pearls of wisdom
Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”
Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.”
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