Demand for traditional keffiyehs surges in last remaining Palestinian factory


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A loud clacking noise fills the air at the Hirbawi factory in the occupied West Bank city of Hebron, as a dozen sewing machines simultaneously churn back and forth, weaving the intricate stitches of the Palestinian chequered scarf, the keffiyeh.

Workers look on and occasionally cut off excess thread while several machines sew multicoloured versions of the scarf – blue, orange and green – and others create the easily recognisable traditional black-and-white keffiyeh.

The Hirbawi factory, founded in 1961, is the last Palestinian factory in the West Bank that is producing the quintessential Palestinian garment.

But since October 7, when Israel launched a military operation on Gaza in retaliation for a Hamas attack, demand locally and abroad for the scarf has been soaring.

“It’s not one fold or two-fold, it’s more,” says Joudeh Hirbawi, the factory’s owner.

The Palestinian death toll in Gaza, which has exceeded 18,000, the vast majority of them civilians, has led to huge protests in most major cities around the world with people demanding an end to the war, now in its third month.

Protesters have come out by the thousands, waving Palestinian flags and signs demanding a ceasefire, and also donning the scarf that was most famously worn by Palestine Liberation Organisation leader Yasser Arafat.

He wore the hatta, as it is called locally, in the traditional manner, and carefully styled it around his head, folding it in the shape of Palestine.

The late Palestinian President Yasser Arafat popularised the keffiyeh. Getty
The late Palestinian President Yasser Arafat popularised the keffiyeh. Getty

The headdress has since continued to serve both as a fashion and political statement, as well as a powerful symbol of solidarity with the Palestinian cause.

“No one can deny the symbolic importance of the keffiyeh,” Mr Hirbawi tells The National.

But amid tensions that have spilt over well beyond the region, violence has sometimes ensued.

In the US state of Vermont last month, three Palestinian university students – two of them wearing keffiyehs – were shot while on their way to a family dinner. One student was paralysed from the chest down.

And a woman in Brooklyn, New York, was arrested and charged with a hate crime after she threw coffee at a man wearing the scarf.

Amid a rise in Islamophobic attacks and anti-Arab sentiment, police in Germany and France have banned, fined or detained protesters wearing keffiyehs.

“The controversy is not about the keffiyeh, it’s about the situation that we are in,” Mr Hirbawi says. “The keffiyeh is but a very small part of it.”

Tahseen Ali Ahmad, Kinnan Abdalhamid, and Hisham Awartani were shot in Vermont on November 25, 2023. Hisham was paralysed from the chest down. Rich Price via AP
Tahseen Ali Ahmad, Kinnan Abdalhamid, and Hisham Awartani were shot in Vermont on November 25, 2023. Hisham was paralysed from the chest down. Rich Price via AP

Meanwhile, despite the rise in demand, particularly for the traditional keffiyehs, the business Mr Hirbawi’s late father started is not without its challenges.

The sewing machines operate 10 hours a day, but produce on average only 15 or 16 keffiyehs because of the complicated pattern.

The tassels are added manually after.

For the factory, competition is strong, as cheaper, lower quality scarves mostly made in China are flooding markets.

“That’s why there are no other factories around,” Mr Hirbawi says.

Still, his business's faithful clients are willing to pay the higher price tag, and also, more recently, put up with the long wait for orders for a scarf that is Made in Palestine.

“People are willing to wait up to six months, not because our keffiyeh is a work of art,” he says.

“It’s a matter of solidarity.”

UAE v Gibraltar

What: International friendly

When: 7pm kick off

Where: Rugby Park, Dubai Sports City

Admission: Free

Online: The match will be broadcast live on Dubai Exiles’ Facebook page

UAE squad: Lucas Waddington (Dubai Exiles), Gio Fourie (Exiles), Craig Nutt (Abu Dhabi Harlequins), Phil Brady (Harlequins), Daniel Perry (Dubai Hurricanes), Esekaia Dranibota (Harlequins), Matt Mills (Exiles), Jaen Botes (Exiles), Kristian Stinson (Exiles), Murray Reason (Abu Dhabi Saracens), Dave Knight (Hurricanes), Ross Samson (Jebel Ali Dragons), DuRandt Gerber (Exiles), Saki Naisau (Dragons), Andrew Powell (Hurricanes), Emosi Vacanau (Harlequins), Niko Volavola (Dragons), Matt Richards (Dragons), Luke Stevenson (Harlequins), Josh Ives (Dubai Sports City Eagles), Sean Stevens (Saracens), Thinus Steyn (Exiles)

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
BULKWHIZ PROFILE

Date started: February 2017

Founders: Amira Rashad (CEO), Yusuf Saber (CTO), Mahmoud Sayedahmed (adviser), Reda Bouraoui (adviser)

Based: Dubai, UAE

Sector: E-commerce 

Size: 50 employees

Funding: approximately $6m

Investors: Beco Capital, Enabling Future and Wain in the UAE; China's MSA Capital; 500 Startups; Faith Capital and Savour Ventures in Kuwait

The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E4.0-litre%20flat%206-cylinder%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E7-speed%20PDK%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E500hp%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E450Nm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDh530%2C300%20as%20tested%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Now%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Trump v Khan

2016: Feud begins after Khan criticised Trump’s proposed Muslim travel ban to US

2017: Trump criticises Khan’s ‘no reason to be alarmed’ response to London Bridge terror attacks

2019: Trump calls Khan a “stone cold loser” before first state visit

2019: Trump tweets about “Khan’s Londonistan”, calling him “a national disgrace”

2022:  Khan’s office attributes rise in Islamophobic abuse against the major to hostility stoked during Trump’s presidency

July 2025 During a golfing trip to Scotland, Trump calls Khan “a nasty person”

Sept 2025 Trump blames Khan for London’s “stabbings and the dirt and the filth”.

Dec 2025 Trump suggests migrants got Khan elected, calls him a “horrible, vicious, disgusting mayor”

UAE - India ties

The UAE is India’s third-largest trade partner after the US and China

Annual bilateral trade between India and the UAE has crossed US$ 60 billion

The UAE is the fourth-largest exporter of crude oil for India

Indians comprise the largest community with 3.3 million residents in the UAE

Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi first visited the UAE in August 2015

His visit on August 23-24 will be the third in four years

Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the Armed Forces, visited India in February 2016

Sheikh Mohamed was the chief guest at India’s Republic Day celebrations in January 2017

Modi will visit Bahrain on August 24-25

Classification of skills

A worker is categorised as skilled by the MOHRE based on nine levels given in the International Standard Classification of Occupations (ISCO) issued by the International Labour Organisation. 

A skilled worker would be someone at a professional level (levels 1 – 5) which includes managers, professionals, technicians and associate professionals, clerical support workers, and service and sales workers.

The worker must also have an attested educational certificate higher than secondary or an equivalent certification, and earn a monthly salary of at least Dh4,000. 

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Breast cancer in men: the facts

1) Breast cancer is men is rare but can develop rapidly. It usually occurs in those over the ages of 60, but can occasionally affect younger men.

2) Symptoms can include a lump, discharge, swollen glands or a rash. 

3) People with a history of cancer in the family can be more susceptible. 

4) Treatments include surgery and chemotherapy but early diagnosis is the key. 

5) Anyone concerned is urged to contact their doctor

 

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

 

Explainer: Tanween Design Programme

Non-profit arts studio Tashkeel launched this annual initiative with the intention of supporting budding designers in the UAE. This year, three talents were chosen from hundreds of applicants to be a part of the sixth creative development programme. These are architect Abdulla Al Mulla, interior designer Lana El Samman and graphic designer Yara Habib.

The trio have been guided by experts from the industry over the course of nine months, as they developed their own products that merge their unique styles with traditional elements of Emirati design. This includes laboratory sessions, experimental and collaborative practice, investigation of new business models and evaluation.

It is led by British contemporary design project specialist Helen Voce and mentor Kevin Badni, and offers participants access to experts from across the world, including the likes of UK designer Gareth Neal and multidisciplinary designer and entrepreneur, Sheikh Salem Al Qassimi.

The final pieces are being revealed in a worldwide limited-edition release on the first day of Downtown Designs at Dubai Design Week 2019. Tashkeel will be at stand E31 at the exhibition.

Lisa Ball-Lechgar, deputy director of Tashkeel, said: “The diversity and calibre of the applicants this year … is reflective of the dynamic change that the UAE art and design industry is witnessing, with young creators resolute in making their bold design ideas a reality.”

TOURNAMENT INFO

Women’s World Twenty20 Qualifier

Jul 3- 14, in the Netherlands
The top two teams will qualify to play at the World T20 in the West Indies in November

UAE squad
Humaira Tasneem (captain), Chamani Seneviratne, Subha Srinivasan, Neha Sharma, Kavisha Kumari, Judit Cleetus, Chaya Mughal, Roopa Nagraj, Heena Hotchandani, Namita D’Souza, Ishani Senevirathne, Esha Oza, Nisha Ali, Udeni Kuruppuarachchi

KEY%20DATES%20IN%20AMAZON'S%20HISTORY
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Quick pearls of wisdom

Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”

Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.” 

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While you're here
Company%20Profile
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Scoreline

Liverpool 3
Mane (7'), Salah (69'), Firmino (90')

Bournemouth 0

End of free parking

- paid-for parking will be rolled across Abu Dhabi island on August 18

- drivers will have three working weeks leeway before fines are issued

- areas that are currently free to park - around Sheikh Zayed Bridge, Maqta Bridge, Mussaffah Bridge and the Corniche - will now require a ticket

- villa residents will need a permit to park outside their home. One vehicle is Dh800 and a second is Dh1,200. 

- The penalty for failing to pay for a ticket after 10 minutes will be Dh200

- Parking on a patch of sand will incur a fine of Dh300

Updated: December 17, 2023, 10:21 AM