The charred remains of a safari yacht that caught fire on the Red Sea. Kamal Tabikha / The National
The charred remains of a safari yacht that caught fire on the Red Sea. Kamal Tabikha / The National
The charred remains of a safari yacht that caught fire on the Red Sea. Kamal Tabikha / The National
The charred remains of a safari yacht that caught fire on the Red Sea. Kamal Tabikha / The National

From sinking yachts to oil spills: Why is Marsa Alam's coast so treacherous?


Kamal Tabikha
  • English
  • Arabic

Perched along Egypt's pristine Red Sea coast, Marsa Alam has long been a hidden gem for beach and diving enthusiasts seeking an escape from the crowded popular resorts of Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada. However, this remote paradise has recently found itself in the spotlight for all the wrong reasons.

A series of alarming maritime incidents have taken place in the area this year, including the sinking of five liveaboard yachts and a cargo ship named the VSG Glory, which went down on Monday after it had run aground on November 22, causing an oil spill.

The freighter was carrying 70 tonnes of fuel oil when it collided with a coral reef off the coast of El Quseir. It was also carrying 4,000 tonnes of bran and 50 tonnes of diesel. Egypt's Environment Minister Yasmine Fouad responded to the incident by visiting the area last Sunday to monitor clean-up efforts.

A coalition of naval forces, petroleum experts and environmentalists had been working to clean up the oil while crews worked to repair the ship's hull, which had been split open in the collision. Repair efforts failed.

After the ship sank on Monday, Ms Fouad said efforts to limit environmental damage to the surrounding area were intensifying. However, the full extent of the pollution remains to be seen. El Quseir residents say areas of the beach have been coated in oil.

The vessel had been seen by The National on Friday morning being tugged along the coastline between the port city of Safaga and El Quseir. It was tilting.

The frequency of incidents in the Marsa Alam area has raised serious concerns about the safety of the waters surrounding this idyllic destination.

The most recent liveaboard incident involved a yacht called Sea Story, which was carrying 44 passengers and a crew of various nationalities. It capsized, resulting in the death of six, while five others remain missing at sea. The 33 others on board were returned alive after days of search and rescue efforts by the Egyptian navy.

Despite the widespread attention the incident received in the press and on social media, many residents in Marsa Alam seemed unfazed.

During a recent visit to the area, several told The National that while the sinking of the liveaboard yachts was indeed tragic, it was seen by most as no one's fault.

The 300km stretch of coastline from Hurghada to Marsa Alam, which gets wilder to the south, is a patchwork of cargo docks, military bases, luxury hotels and diving resorts.

That the coastline constitutes one of the country’s strategic sea borders with Saudi Arabia and Yemen, also a prolific smuggling hub, necessitates a strong military presence.

Some of Egypt’s largest stone quarries, mostly owned by the armed forces, in addition to the country’s largest gold mine, Al Sukkari, are found around Marsa Alam. Military bases, some with gargantuan radar units, are also a common sight near the beaches, many of which are patrolled by uniformed soldiers.

Al Sukkari gold mine in Marsa Alam is guarded by a heavy military presence in the area. Kamal Tabikha / The National
Al Sukkari gold mine in Marsa Alam is guarded by a heavy military presence in the area. Kamal Tabikha / The National

The situation is made more intense by the often heavy commercial maritime traffic on its way either to or from the many ports on Egypt’s Red Sea or through the Suez Canal.

Ali Abdo, 58, a tour operator in Marsa Alam, explained that passengers embarking on yacht journeys, whether they are day trips on small boats or multi-day 'safaris', are required to sign release forms by the tour officials, acknowledging that they are participating at their own risk and that companies are not liable for any accidents.

The tour operators are then required to present a list of any passenger trips to the military intelligence office, located across the street from Marsa Alam’s marina. The military then would either approve the trip or forbid it. The armed forces' main concern, however, is securing the border – not tourists' safety. Safety checks and co-ordination on weather for sailing does not fall under its jurisdiction, Mr Abdo said.

Tour companies are responsible for co-ordinating with state bodies operating in the area on safety measures for passengers, such as weather warnings. They are also held responsible should any traveller choose to take legal action for an experience on a trip.

Mr Abdo said it is, however, common for tourism companies, especially larger, well-connected ones, to ignore certain safety protocols at their own discretion due to their packed schedules and the financial losses they would incur from delays caused by the popularity of diving tourism.

A safari yacht moored in the Red Sea city of Marsa Alam. Kamal Tabikha / The National
A safari yacht moored in the Red Sea city of Marsa Alam. Kamal Tabikha / The National

Yassin Sayed, a port attendant at Marsa Alam marina, said: “If a closure is issued by the military for a security concern or a smuggling bust, everyone complies and they return and moor their boats immediately. But weather warnings aren’t always enforced by the military. Some tour companies will ignore weather concerns so they don’t lose money."

He argues, it is possible this happened with Sea Story, which embarked on a five-day safari despite the Egyptian Meteorological Authority warning against sailing on the day of departure.

“To be fair, the sea here is very narrow compared to the Mediterranean and weather rarely gets bad enough for ships to sink. Far more vessels sink because of the coral reefs,” he added.

The Chamber of Diving and Water Sports, a private sector umbrella authority that oversees permits for diving centres and tourism companies in the area, did not respond to The National’s request for comment on the incident.

The governor of Red Sea province, Maj Gen Amr Hanafy, said last week that the Sea Story started sinking after it was hit by "a high sea wave".

Of the four other yacht incidents, two featured cabin fires. One involved Nourhan, a 36-metre liveaboard carrying 24 passengers, which sank on November 6, and another involved the Sea Legend, which burned down to its metal frame in February causing the death of three British citizens.

Its charred remains are now on display at Marsa Alam marina and have become a tourist attraction. According to Mr Sayed and Mr Abdo, the yacht could be seen from the coastal road, drifting for hours as it burned before it hit a stone breakwater. “A military boat followed it all night at a distance as it blazed.” Mr Sayed said.

The remaining two incidents involved the vessels Exocet, which sank on June 26, and Seaduction, which went down in October. Both had collided with the dense coral reefs in the area.

“You can’t point a finger at any one thing that needs to be fixed in order to stop yachts sinking,” Mr Sayed said. “There are often different reasons, which isn’t a surprise ... after all, being out at sea is inherently risky and there are many factors that could go wrong."

Yachts at Marsa Alam's marina await to disembark on trips popular with divers. Kamal Tabikha / The National
Yachts at Marsa Alam's marina await to disembark on trips popular with divers. Kamal Tabikha / The National
It’s a place that is so different to where they come from, a more dangerous place, and that’s a big part of the appeal
Ali Abdo,
tour operator

The wildness of Marsa Alam’s terrain and its open waters, dense with coral, are the main draw for the kind of tourists who take diving trips, according to Mr Abdo. Such tourists are classified by operators as more adventurous than those who choose to go to Sharm El Sheikh or Hurghada.

“Risk is part of the attraction here," Mr Abdo said. "Tourists want to go out further into the sea, they want to dive with sharks and large turtles and they want to explore dark caverns underwater for hours. It’s a place that is so different to where they come from, a more dangerous place and that’s a big part of the appeal.”

He says the majority of tourists in Marsa Alam are European. “I have been a tour operator here for almost 20 years and what I have noticed is that more Europeans come here than any other nationality. I had a German couple ask me to get them military permission papers to hike through the mountains from here to Luxor – that’s over 200km through rocky mountains!”

The recent maritime incidents in Marsa Alam have shed light on the complex challenges faced by this remote paradise. The blend of commercial shipping, military presence and adventurous tourism has created a precarious balance that, when disrupted, can lead to tragic consequences.

The VSG Glory collided with a reef on November 22, causing a large oil spill. Photo: Hurghada Environmental Protection & Conservation Association
The VSG Glory collided with a reef on November 22, causing a large oil spill. Photo: Hurghada Environmental Protection & Conservation Association
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Name: Grubtech

Founders: Mohamed Al Fayed and Mohammed Hammedi

Launched: October 2019

Employees: 50

Financing stage: Seed round (raised $2 million)

 

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Six tips to secure your smart home

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Director: Eli Roth

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Seemar’s top six for the Dubai World Cup Carnival:

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The Perfect Couple

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White hydrogen: Naturally occurring hydrogenChromite: Hard, metallic mineral containing iron oxide and chromium oxideUltramafic rocks: Dark-coloured rocks rich in magnesium or iron with very low silica contentOphiolite: A section of the earth’s crust, which is oceanic in nature that has since been uplifted and exposed on landOlivine: A commonly occurring magnesium iron silicate mineral that derives its name for its olive-green yellow-green colour

BMW M5 specs

Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V-8 petrol enging with additional electric motor

Power: 727hp

Torque: 1,000Nm

Transmission: 8-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 10.6L/100km

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Engine: four-litre V6 and 3.5-litre V6 twin-turbo

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5 of the most-popular Airbnb locations in Dubai

Bobby Grudziecki, chief operating officer of Frank Porter, identifies the five most popular areas in Dubai for those looking to make the most out of their properties and the rates owners can secure:

• Dubai Marina

The Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residence are popular locations, says Mr Grudziecki, due to their closeness to the beach, restaurants and hotels.

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh482 to Dh739 
Two bedroom: Dh627 to Dh960 
Three bedroom: Dh721 to Dh1,104

• Downtown

Within walking distance of the Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and the famous fountains, this location combines business and leisure.  “Sure it’s for tourists,” says Mr Grudziecki. “Though Downtown [still caters to business people] because it’s close to Dubai International Financial Centre."

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh497 to Dh772
Two bedroom: Dh646 to Dh1,003
Three bedroom: Dh743 to Dh1,154

• City Walk

The rising star of the Dubai property market, this area is lined with pristine sidewalks, boutiques and cafes and close to the new entertainment venue Coca Cola Arena.  “Downtown and Marina are pretty much the same prices,” Mr Grudziecki says, “but City Walk is higher.”

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh524 to Dh809 
Two bedroom: Dh682 to Dh1,052 
Three bedroom: Dh784 to Dh1,210 

• Jumeirah Lake Towers

Dubai Marina’s little brother JLT resides on the other side of Sheikh Zayed road but is still close enough to beachside outlets and attractions. The big selling point for Airbnb renters, however, is that “it’s cheaper than Dubai Marina”, Mr Grudziecki says.

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh422 to Dh629 
Two bedroom: Dh549 to Dh818 
Three bedroom: Dh631 to Dh941

• Palm Jumeirah

Palm Jumeirah's proximity to luxury resorts is attractive, especially for big families, says Mr Grudziecki, as Airbnb renters can secure competitive rates on one of the world’s most famous tourist destinations.

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh503 to Dh770 
Two bedroom: Dh654 to Dh1,002 
Three bedroom: Dh752 to Dh1,152 

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Lexus LX700h specs

Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

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Other acts on the Jazz Garden bill

Sharrie Williams
The American singer is hugely respected in blues circles due to her passionate vocals and songwriting. Born and raised in Michigan, Williams began recording and touring as a teenage gospel singer. Her career took off with the blues band The Wiseguys. Such was the acclaim of their live shows that they toured throughout Europe and in Africa. As a solo artist, Williams has also collaborated with the likes of the late Dizzy Gillespie, Van Morrison and Mavis Staples.
Lin Rountree
An accomplished smooth jazz artist who blends his chilled approach with R‘n’B. Trained at the Duke Ellington School of the Arts in Washington, DC, Rountree formed his own band in 2004. He has also recorded with the likes of Kem, Dwele and Conya Doss. He comes to Dubai on the back of his new single Pass The Groove, from his forthcoming 2018 album Stronger Still, which may follow his five previous solo albums in cracking the top 10 of the US jazz charts.
Anita Williams
Dubai-based singer Anita Williams will open the night with a set of covers and swing, jazz and blues standards that made her an in-demand singer across the emirate. The Irish singer has been performing in Dubai since 2008 at venues such as MusicHall and Voda Bar. Her Jazz Garden appearance is career highlight as she will use the event to perform the original song Big Blue Eyes, the single from her debut solo album, due for release soon.

Updated: December 04, 2024, 10:48 AM