Why Trieste is enjoying a renaissance in Italy


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On arriving in Trieste, I always have to remind myself that I'm actually in Italy. This buzzing, cosmopolitan melting pot prospered for 500 years under Austrian rule as the vital maritime port of global trade for the Habsburg Empire, and only officially became part of modern-day Italy in 1954. It feels closer in spirit to Vienna than Venice, even though its immense city square, lined by opulent palaces with one side magnificently opening out onto the Adriatic Sea, bears the solemn name Piazza Unita d’Italia.

When I first started coming here, this was an edgy, moody city at the frontline of the Balkan conflicts, but the Trieste I discover today is transformed into an exciting Central European crossroads, with lively literary cafes, a vibrant arts scene and fabulous seafood.

The Barcolana, the largest sailing regatta in the world, is held in Trieste. Reuters
The Barcolana, the largest sailing regatta in the world, is held in Trieste. Reuters

The summer is marked by funky music festivals, while yachting regatta, the Barcolana – designated the World’s Largest Sailing Race by the Guinness Book of Records – fills the harbour each year with more than 2,000 sleek racing boats. But above all, Trieste remains stubbornly under the radar, one of those rare destinations that is still spared the mass tourism that invades many of Italy’s more famous cities.

There is nowhere better to take the pulse of this seductive city than in one of its literary cafes. Tourists are invariably tempted by the sumptuous Art Nouveau salons of the Caffe Tommaseo or the mirrored walls of Caffe Specchi, but my favourite is the buzzing Caffe San Marco, an Art Deco jewel and a favourite haunt of writers such as James Joyce, who wrote Dubliners when living in Trieste.

Caffe San Marco pulls in a loyal crowd of young and old guests. John Brunton for The National
Caffe San Marco pulls in a loyal crowd of young and old guests. John Brunton for The National

While older residents faithfully read the newspapers in this famous landmark, students sit hunched over their laptops, with everyone enjoying some of the best coffee in Italy – this is the home city of Illy Caffe – accompanied by to-die-for sachertorte and strudel. “We aim to make the San Marco a cultural hub of the city again, with its own book shop, art exhibitions, poetry readings and music,” explains Eugenia, who owns the cafe with Alexandros.

As for the culture scene, while there is always a blockbuster art show featuring the likes of Banksy or Frida Kahlo at Salone degli Incanti, an immense exhibition hall in the ancient fish market, I prefer to head to the discrete Museo Revoltella, where its splendid collection of Italian art is showcased in a grand palazzo renovated by one of the 20th century’s most innovative architects Carlo Scarpa.

Down by the picturesque Canal Grande, a whimsical statue of Joyce looks out over waterside bars and cafes, packed to bursting for the evening ahead. Opposite the provocative Irish writer stands the towering marble facade and pastel domes of San Spiridione, a Serbian Orthodox church with glorious Neo-Byzantine interiors that remind me more of exotic Istanbul.

And to illustrate this city’s harmonious integration of multicultural immigrants, a short walk then takes me past San Nicolo dei Greci, a splendid waterside Greek Orthodox church, followed by the Ar-Rayan mosque – centre of a thriving Muslim community whose roots here date back centuries to the Ottoman Empire – and the ancient Jewish ghetto, now a rabbit’s warren of antique shops, osterie and fashion boutiques.

A James Joyce statue stands along Canal Grande. John Brunton for The National
A James Joyce statue stands along Canal Grande. John Brunton for The National

A steep hike up the San Giusto hill comes out at an imposing 1,000-year-old Romanesque cathedral, its floors covered with delicate mosaics. The perfect spot for a sunset panorama over one of Europe’s great natural harbours encircled by wooded hills that tumble down to the Adriatic coastline as it stretches into Slovenia.

Trieste offers numerous day trips, eco-slow travel at its best, with no need to hire a car as low-carbon local transport is very efficient. To reach the fairytale Miramare Castle, I take a leisurely 4km stroll on the Lungomare, a popular beach promenade along the Adriatic loved by locals for swimming, sunbathing, picnics and parties. The dazzling white castle sits on top of craggy rocks like an ornate wedding cake decoration, created as the sumptuous residence of Maximilian, brother of former Austrian emperor, Franz Josef. Sadly, he never got to spend a single night there; he declared himself emperor of Mexico only to be executed there before returning home. It is just another of Trieste’s typically quirky tales.

Duino Castle is open to the public. John Brunton for The National
Duino Castle is open to the public. John Brunton for The National

Further along the coast, on the rugged Carso peninsula, lies Duino Castle, owned by aristocratic relatives of the immensely wealthy Thurn und Taxis family. The castle and its park are open to the public, and this is also the point to set off on the Rilke Trail, a hike through the Carso’s forests, limestone outcrops and caves, dedicated to the romantic poet Rainer Maria Rilke, who was inspired to write his mystical existential poems, the Duino Elegies, while staying in the castle.

My favourite excursion involves jumping on the public ferry that chugs past imposing waterfront palaces, then the busy commercial port, right across the Gulf of Trieste to the scenic port of Muggia. I step back into the past, when this was part of another empire, the Republic of Venice. The architecture here is distinctive Venetian Gothic, marked by carvings of the Lion of Venice, and the local dialect is close to Venetian. Bobbing boats line the tiny harbour and as Mauro Glessi unloads crates of wriggling squid, crabs and sardines, the young fisherman recommends I have lunch at the nearby Il Corridoio, where his mamma Sabrina is the chef.

The friendly trattoria is a brilliant discovery, genuine cucina casalinga – or home cooking. She certainly whips up a storm in the kitchen and we feast on Venetian specialities such as spaghetti smothered with clams, polenta topped with baccala mantecato (creamy salt cod) and a fritto misto of crispy calamari and prawns.

It all goes to show that Trieste remains a surprising destination for ever caught in an intriguing limbo between its Italian and Central European heritage.

THE%20SPECS
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Profile

Name: Carzaty

Founders: Marwan Chaar and Hassan Jaffar

Launched: 2017

Employees: 22

Based: Dubai and Muscat

Sector: Automobile retail

Funding to date: $5.5 million

Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
ULTRA PROCESSED FOODS

- Carbonated drinks, sweet or savoury packaged snacks, confectionery, mass-produced packaged breads and buns 

- margarines and spreads; cookies, biscuits, pastries, cakes, and cake mixes, breakfast cereals, cereal and energy bars;

- energy drinks, milk drinks, fruit yoghurts and fruit drinks, cocoa drinks, meat and chicken extracts and instant sauces

- infant formulas and follow-on milks, health and slimming products such as powdered or fortified meal and dish substitutes,

- many ready-to-heat products including pre-prepared pies and pasta and pizza dishes, poultry and fish nuggets and sticks, sausages, burgers, hot dogs, and other reconstituted meat products, powdered and packaged instant soups, noodles and desserts.

Should late investors consider cryptocurrencies?

Wealth managers recommend late investors to have a balanced portfolio that typically includes traditional assets such as cash, government and corporate bonds, equities, commodities and commercial property.

They do not usually recommend investing in Bitcoin or other cryptocurrencies due to the risk and volatility associated with them.

“It has produced eye-watering returns for some, whereas others have lost substantially as this has all depended purely on timing and when the buy-in was. If someone still has about 20 to 25 years until retirement, there isn’t any need to take such risks,” Rupert Connor of Abacus Financial Consultant says.

He adds that if a person is interested in owning a business or growing a property portfolio to increase their retirement income, this can be encouraged provided they keep in mind the overall risk profile of these assets.

What is graphene?

Graphene is a single layer of carbon atoms arranged like honeycomb.

It was discovered in 2004, when Russian-born Manchester scientists Andrei Geim and Kostya Novoselov were "playing about" with sticky tape and graphite - the material used as "lead" in pencils.

Placing the tape on the graphite and peeling it, they managed to rip off thin flakes of carbon. In the beginning they got flakes consisting of many layers of graphene. But as they repeated the process many times, the flakes got thinner.

By separating the graphite fragments repeatedly, they managed to create flakes that were just one atom thick. Their experiment had led to graphene being isolated for the very first time.

At the time, many believed it was impossible for such thin crystalline materials to be stable. But examined under a microscope, the material remained stable, and when tested was found to have incredible properties.

It is many times times stronger than steel, yet incredibly lightweight and flexible. It is electrically and thermally conductive but also transparent. The world's first 2D material, it is one million times thinner than the diameter of a single human hair.

But the 'sticky tape' method would not work on an industrial scale. Since then, scientists have been working on manufacturing graphene, to make use of its incredible properties.

In 2010, Geim and Novoselov were awarded the Nobel Prize for Physics. Their discovery meant physicists could study a new class of two-dimensional materials with unique properties. 

 

BORDERLANDS

Starring: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Hart, Jamie Lee Curtis

Director: Eli Roth

Rating: 0/5

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Signs%20of%20%20%20%20%20%20%20heat%20stroke
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Coal Black Mornings

Brett Anderson

Little Brown Book Group 

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

Company%20Profile
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Story%20behind%20the%20UAE%20flag
%3Cp%3EThe%20UAE%20flag%20was%20first%20unveiled%20on%20December%202%2C%201971%2C%20the%20day%20the%20UAE%20was%20formed.%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EIt%20was%20designed%20by%20Abdullah%20Mohammed%20Al%20Maainah%2C%2019%2C%20an%20Emirati%20from%20Abu%20Dhabi.%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EMr%20Al%20Maainah%20said%20in%20an%20interview%20with%20%3Cem%3EThe%20National%3C%2Fem%3E%20in%202011%20he%20chose%20the%20colours%20for%20local%20reasons.%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EThe%20black%20represents%20the%20oil%20riches%20that%20transformed%20the%20UAE%2C%20green%20stands%20for%20fertility%20and%20the%20red%20and%20white%20colours%20were%20drawn%20from%20those%20found%20in%20existing%20emirate%20flags.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Jetour T1 specs

Engine: 2-litre turbocharged

Power: 254hp

Torque: 390Nm

Price: From Dh126,000

Available: Now

Volvo ES90 Specs

Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)

Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp

Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm

On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region

Price: Exact regional pricing TBA

UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE FIXTURES

All kick-off times 10.45pm UAE ( 4 GMT) unless stated

Tuesday
Sevilla v Maribor
Spartak Moscow v Liverpool
Manchester City v Shakhtar Donetsk
Napoli v Feyenoord
Besiktas v RB Leipzig
Monaco v Porto
Apoel Nicosia v Tottenham Hotspur
Borussia Dortmund v Real Madrid

Wednesday
Basel v Benfica
CSKA Moscow Manchester United
Paris Saint-Germain v Bayern Munich
Anderlecht v Celtic
Qarabag v Roma (8pm)
Atletico Madrid v Chelsea
Juventus v Olympiakos
Sporting Lisbon v Barcelona

Milestones on the road to union

1970

October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar. 

December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.

1971

March 1:  Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.

July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.

July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.

August 6:  The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.

August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.

September 3: Qatar becomes independent.

November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.

November 29:  At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.

November 30: Despite  a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa. 

November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties

December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.

December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.

December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.

WHY%20AAYAN%20IS%20'PERFECT%20EXAMPLE'
%3Cp%3EDavid%20White%20might%20be%20new%20to%20the%20country%2C%20but%20he%20has%20clearly%20already%20built%20up%20an%20affinity%20with%20the%20place.%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3EAfter%20the%20UAE%20shocked%20Pakistan%20in%20the%20semi-final%20of%20the%20Under%2019%20Asia%20Cup%20last%20month%2C%20White%20was%20hugged%20on%20the%20field%20by%20Aayan%20Khan%2C%20the%20team%E2%80%99s%20captain.%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3EWhite%20suggests%20that%20was%20more%20a%20sign%20of%20Aayan%E2%80%99s%20amiability%20than%20anything%20else.%20But%20he%20believes%20the%20young%20all-rounder%2C%20who%20was%20part%20of%20the%20winning%20Gulf%20Giants%20team%20last%20year%2C%20is%20just%20the%20sort%20of%20player%20the%20country%20should%20be%20seeking%20to%20produce%20via%20the%20ILT20.%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%E2%80%9CHe%20is%20a%20delightful%20young%20man%2C%E2%80%9D%20White%20said.%20%E2%80%9CHe%20played%20in%20the%20competition%20last%20year%20at%2017%2C%20and%20look%20at%20his%20development%20from%20there%20till%20now%2C%20and%20where%20he%20is%20representing%20the%20UAE.%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%E2%80%9CHe%20was%20influential%20in%20the%20U19%20team%20which%20beat%20Pakistan.%20He%20is%20the%20perfect%20example%20of%20what%20we%20are%20all%20trying%20to%20achieve%20here.%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%E2%80%9CIt%20is%20about%20the%20development%20of%20players%20who%20are%20going%20to%20represent%20the%20UAE%20and%20go%20on%20to%20help%20make%20UAE%20a%20force%20in%20world%20cricket.%E2%80%9D%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
25%20Days%20to%20Aden
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THE BIO

Bio Box

Role Model: Sheikh Zayed, God bless his soul

Favorite book: Zayed Biography of the leader

Favorite quote: To be or not to be, that is the question, from William Shakespeare's Hamlet

Favorite food: seafood

Favorite place to travel: Lebanon

Favorite movie: Braveheart

Financial considerations before buying a property

Buyers should try to pay as much in cash as possible for a property, limiting the mortgage value to as little as they can afford. This means they not only pay less in interest but their monthly costs are also reduced. Ideally, the monthly mortgage payment should not exceed 20 per cent of the purchaser’s total household income, says Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching.

“If it’s a rental property, plan for the property to have periods when it does not have a tenant. Ensure you have enough cash set aside to pay the mortgage and other costs during these periods, ideally at least six months,” she says. 

Also, shop around for the best mortgage interest rate. Understand the terms and conditions, especially what happens after any introductory periods, Ms Glynn adds.

Using a good mortgage broker is worth the investment to obtain the best rate available for a buyer’s needs and circumstances. A good mortgage broker will help the buyer understand the terms and conditions of the mortgage and make the purchasing process efficient and easier. 

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Lexus LX700h specs

Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh590,000

The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESingle%20front-axle%20electric%20motor%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E218hp%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E330Nm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESingle-speed%20automatic%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EMax%20touring%20range%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E402km%20(claimed)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh215%2C000%20(estimate)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESeptember%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Updated: October 26, 2023, 7:01 AM`