Hagia Sophia may be Istanbul's most famous mosque, but it's far from the city's only site worth seeing. Unsplash
Hagia Sophia may be Istanbul's most famous mosque, but it's far from the city's only site worth seeing. Unsplash
Hagia Sophia may be Istanbul's most famous mosque, but it's far from the city's only site worth seeing. Unsplash
Hagia Sophia may be Istanbul's most famous mosque, but it's far from the city's only site worth seeing. Unsplash

Beyond Hagia Sophia: A guide to Istanbul’s other incredible mosques


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Istanbul's Hagia Sophia is a world-renowned attraction, and rightly so. Incredibly beautiful and filled with dazzling chandeliers, the former church-turned-mosque is also a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Entry to tourists used to be free, with access open for travellers to explore both its ground and first floors. But since January, non-Turkish visitors can only access Hagia Sophia’s upper floor after paying a €25 fee and waiting in long lines.

While the marvel is worth the cost and the long wait to get inside, travellers prioritising saving time and money might want to visit some of the city's other memorable mosques instead, each of which has free entry and barely any winding queues.

Sultanahmet Mosque

The Sultanahmet or Blue Mosque offers free entry to tourists. Photo: Ronan O'Connell
The Sultanahmet or Blue Mosque offers free entry to tourists. Photo: Ronan O'Connell

Standing opposite Hagia Sophia in central Istanbul is an even more commanding mosque. The 400-year-old Sultanahmet, or Blue Mosque, cannot match the deep, intricate history of Hagia Sophia, which is about 1,500 years old.

But it is larger and more visually striking than its neighbour, and also offers free entry to tourists outside of prayer times. Six lofty minarets ring this colossal mosque, which is topped by a 43-metre-tall dome and a cluster of glimmering semi-domes.

Its nickname was inspired by the ocean hues splashed across its interior. This photogenic prayer hall is colourfully illuminated by more than 200 stained-glass windows, delicately woven carpets, and about 20,000 ceramic tiles featuring geometric and floral motifs.

Up to 10,000 worshippers can be accommodated within this hall and the mosque’s sprawling courtyard. During daily prayer times, when visitors aren’t permitted to enter, throngs of tourists gather in the adjoining, green expanse of Sultanahmet Park to picnic and take photos in front of the mosque’s grand facade.

Nuruosmaniye Mosque

Nuruosmaniye Mosque peeks out above the roof of the Grand Bazaar. Getty
Nuruosmaniye Mosque peeks out above the roof of the Grand Bazaar. Getty

Like an entire neighbourhood wedged under one gigantic roof, Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar covers about 60 streets, hosts more than 4,000 businesses, is about 600 years old and attracts millions of tourists per year. Yet it doesn’t overshadow the adjacent Nuruosmaniye Mosque.

Rather, it funnels many foreign visitors into this sublime 18th-century complex, which is so impressive that it’s on the tentative list for Unesco World Heritage status. Behind its lofty stone fortifications is not just an Ottoman-era mosque, but also a library, tombs, soup kitchen, madrassa, and sebil fountain.

Visitors to its prayer hall can peer up and see, etched into its dome, a verse from the Quran that reads: “God is the light of the Heavens and the Earth.” This is tied to the name Nuruosmaniye, which means Light of Osman. That design feature was added during the mosque’s six-year construction, which began during the reign of Ottoman Sultan Mahmud I in 1749.

Suleymaniye Mosque

Suleymaniye Mosque has a grand design. Getty Images
Suleymaniye Mosque has a grand design. Getty Images

The entire city of Istanbul seems to unfurl at the foot of Suleymaniye Mosque. There are few finer views of this metropolis than from the verdant garden of Suleymaniye, which is perched on top of a hill, providing vistas across the historic Fatih district and the Bosphorus Strait, to the more modern, northern half of Istanbul.

Yet Suleymaniye manages to compete with this outlook thanks to the grandeur of its design by Sinan, the revered chief architect of Ottoman Emperor Suleiman the Magnificent, who commissioned this mosque in the 1550s.

Sinan used Hagia Sophia as a loose template for his masterwork. Almost 4,000 labourers and craftsmen toiled to create this mosque, which is crowned by a 53-metre dome and spiked by four minarets. Suleiman himself rests here inside an opulent tomb, which is a pilgrimage site for Turkish people.

Yeni Cami Mosque

Yeni Cami is also known as New Mosque. Getty Images
Yeni Cami is also known as New Mosque. Getty Images

Sitting below Suleymaniye, on the southern bank of the Bosphorus, is the similarly splendid Yeni Cami. Few of Istanbul’s mosques receive as many visitors as Yeni Cami, which owns a tourist-soaked spot, sandwiched between the city’s famous Galata Bridge and its teeming Egyptian Bazaar.

Also known as the New Mosque, its entrance is among the most photographed sites in Istanbul. From just inside the mosque’s main gate, visitors stare up at the pleasing symmetry of its dome-laden roof and skyscraping minarets. Commissioned in the 1590s, Yeni Cami wasn’t completed until 1665 due to a series of complications and mishaps. This wait was worthwhile, though, as it resulted in a memorable design, the highlight of which is an array of more than 20 domes.

Firuz Agha Mosque

Despite its diminutive size, Firuz Agha mosque is a sublime structure. Photo: Ronan O'Connell
Despite its diminutive size, Firuz Agha mosque is a sublime structure. Photo: Ronan O'Connell

Tourists who walk between Hagia Sofia and the Grand Bazaar will likely pass the graceful Firuz Agha mosque. This Islamic house of worship was built in the 15th century on Divan Yolu Street, the main thoroughfare connecting those two aforementioned tourist magnets.

Firaz Agha is far smaller than Istanbul's other mosques listed in this story. Size is irrelevant in this case, however, as it cuts a sublime figure, with its single minaret standing above a central dome and three smaller domes, each of which correspond to a handsome arch beneath. Adding to its appeal is the adjoining Mehmet Akif Ersoy Park, a leafy space decorated by a fountain and statues.

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Know your Camel lingo

The bairaq is a competition for the best herd of 50 camels, named for the banner its winner takes home

Namoos - a word of congratulations reserved for falconry competitions, camel races and camel pageants. It best translates as 'the pride of victory' - and for competitors, it is priceless

Asayel camels - sleek, short-haired hound-like racers

Majahim - chocolate-brown camels that can grow to weigh two tonnes. They were only valued for milk until camel pageantry took off in the 1990s

Millions Street - the thoroughfare where camels are led and where white 4x4s throng throughout the festival

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Engine: 2.5-litre in-line four-cylinder

Power: 182hp @ 6,000rpm

Torque: 244Nm @ 4,000rpm

Transmission: Continuously variable tranmission

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Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026

1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

Challenge Cup result:

1. UAE 3 faults
2. Ireland 9 faults
3. Brazil 11 faults
4. Spain 15 faults
5. Great Britain 17 faults
6. New Zealand 20 faults
7. Italy 26 faults

The Bio

Favourite vegetable: “I really like the taste of the beetroot, the potatoes and the eggplant we are producing.”

Holiday destination: “I like Paris very much, it’s a city very close to my heart.”

Book: “Das Kapital, by Karl Marx. I am not a communist, but there are a lot of lessons for the capitalist system, if you let it get out of control, and humanity.”

Musician: “I like very much Fairuz, the Lebanese singer, and the other is Umm Kulthum. Fairuz is for listening to in the morning, Umm Kulthum for the night.”

Squads

Sri Lanka Tharanga (c), Mathews, Dickwella (wk), Gunathilaka, Mendis, Kapugedera, Siriwardana, Pushpakumara, Dananjaya, Sandakan, Perera, Hasaranga, Malinga, Chameera, Fernando.

India Kohli (c), Dhawan, Rohit, Rahul, Pandey, Rahane, Jadhav, Dhoni (wk), Pandya, Axar, Kuldeep, Chahal, Bumrah, Bhuvneshwar, Thakur.

Afghanistan fixtures
  • v Australia, today
  • v Sri Lanka, Tuesday
  • v New Zealand, Saturday,
  • v South Africa, June 15
  • v England, June 18
  • v India, June 22
  • v Bangladesh, June 24
  • v Pakistan, June 29
  • v West Indies, July 4
Match info

Liverpool 3
Hoedt (10' og), Matip (21'), Salah (45 3')

Southampton 0

The Library: A Catalogue of Wonders
Stuart Kells, Counterpoint Press

SUNDAY'S ABU DHABI T10 MATCHES

Northern Warriors v Team Abu Dhabi, 3.30pm
Bangla Tigers v Karnataka Tuskers, 5.45pm
Qalandars v Maratha Arabians, 8pm

Brief scoreline:

Al Wahda 2

Al Menhali 27', Tagliabue 79'

Al Nassr 3

Hamdallah 41', Giuliano 45 1', 62'

Teams

Punjabi Legends Owners: Inzamam-ul-Haq and Intizar-ul-Haq; Key player: Misbah-ul-Haq

Pakhtoons Owners: Habib Khan and Tajuddin Khan; Key player: Shahid Afridi

Maratha Arabians Owners: Sohail Khan, Ali Tumbi, Parvez Khan; Key player: Virender Sehwag

Bangla Tigers Owners: Shirajuddin Alam, Yasin Choudhary, Neelesh Bhatnager, Anis and Rizwan Sajan; Key player: TBC

Colombo Lions Owners: Sri Lanka Cricket; Key player: TBC

Kerala Kings Owners: Hussain Adam Ali and Shafi Ul Mulk; Key player: Eoin Morgan

Venue Sharjah Cricket Stadium

Format 10 overs per side, matches last for 90 minutes

Timeline October 25: Around 120 players to be entered into a draft, to be held in Dubai; December 21: Matches start; December 24: Finals

Other must-tries

Tomato and walnut salad

A lesson in simple, seasonal eating. Wedges of tomato, chunks of cucumber, thinly sliced red onion, coriander or parsley leaves, and perhaps some fresh dill are drizzled with a crushed walnut and garlic dressing. Do consider yourself warned: if you eat this salad in Georgia during the summer months, the tomatoes will be so ripe and flavourful that every tomato you eat from that day forth will taste lacklustre in comparison.

Badrijani nigvzit

A delicious vegetarian snack or starter. It consists of thinly sliced, fried then cooled aubergine smothered with a thick and creamy walnut sauce and folded or rolled. Take note, even though it seems like you should be able to pick these morsels up with your hands, they’re not as durable as they look. A knife and fork is the way to go.

Pkhali

This healthy little dish (a nice antidote to the khachapuri) is usually made with steamed then chopped cabbage, spinach, beetroot or green beans, combined with walnuts, garlic and herbs to make a vegetable pâté or paste. The mix is then often formed into rounds, chilled in the fridge and topped with pomegranate seeds before being served.

Monster

Directed by: Anthony Mandler

Starring: Kelvin Harrison Jr., John David Washington 

3/5

 

So what is Spicy Chickenjoy?

Just as McDonald’s has the Big Mac, Jollibee has Spicy Chickenjoy – a piece of fried chicken that’s crispy and spicy on the outside and comes with a side of spaghetti, all covered in tomato sauce and topped with sausage slices and ground beef. It sounds like a recipe that a child would come up with, but perhaps that’s the point – a flavourbomb combination of cheap comfort foods. Chickenjoy is Jollibee’s best-selling product in every country in which it has a presence.
 

The specs

Engine: 3.0-litre 6-cyl turbo

Power: 435hp at 5,900rpm

Torque: 520Nm at 1,800-5,500rpm

Transmission: 9-speed auto

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What is a Ponzi scheme?

A fraudulent investment operation where the scammer provides fake reports and generates returns for old investors through money paid by new investors, rather than through ligitimate business activities.

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Engine: 5.6-litre V8

Transmission: seven-speed automatic

Power: 400hp

Torque: 560Nm

Price: Dh234,000 - Dh329,000

On sale: now

Updated: June 12, 2024, 7:05 AM