It's not even 10am, and my watch has already buzzed to let me know I've completed my 10,000 daily steps, which strikes me as slightly odd, considering I've spent the best part of the morning in the back seat of a mini tour bus, motioning towards one of the Philippines's postcard landmarks. Driving around Bohol is a bumpy ride, but one well worth the dubious fitness stats as we arrive at the Chocolate Hills.
Here, the real steps kick in as we climb the 200-ish stairs to the viewing point (hiking the hills is not permitted) over about 1,776 grass-covered limestone mounds. A select few are in the transitional phase from their lush green in cooler months to their famous chocolatey-brown shade once sun-kissed by summer.
As I read the information plaque, I'm interrupted by a Filipino journalist who is on the same trip as me, and is also a first-time visitor to Bohol. He lets our group in on the legend of two feuding giants who, one rainy day, threw fistfuls of mud at each other from the north and south edges of the land, leading to the creation of each hill. Not only is it a much more captivating story than the official information, it serves as a moment that sets the tone for what will be our whistle-stop exploration of Bohol. Mysticism prevails as we visit ancient caves and spot tiny primates, stroll beautiful beaches, visit historic churches and shop at bustling markets – all in just two days and three nights.
Here's why Bohol (both an island and the name of the wider province which includes a further 75 smaller islands) should be on your island-hopping list, and how to do it right if you only have 48 hours.
Day 1: Sweet like chocolate scenery
After our early morning trip to the Chocolate Hills, we drive another 45 minutes to get a glimpse at another of the island's most famed attractions – tarsiers. At Bohol Enchanted Zoological and Botanical Garden, we make our way through gardens filled with other animals and mythological tales depicted via statues to set sight on these tiny primates – one of the smallest in the world measuring between only three and five inches.
We tread silently to get a glimpse of the endangered species, which we're told are extremely sensitive. Turns out, it's my own stress levels that creep up as other visitors aren't so considerate of the silence rule. Native to the island, tarsiers are a privilege to see up close, even if I left both awed and uneased. I later learn of the sanctuary's efforts across the province, which might be a preferred way for travellers to see these lemur-like cuties if you're zoo-avoidant. With only 5,000 to 10,000 left in the wild, they are protected throughout the country, with conservation efforts such as the Philippine Tarsier Foundation providing a peaceful 8.4-hectare forested sanctuary in Bohol.
Back on the road, we drive past traditional tin-roof houses as mopeds zip in front of us. On the streets, stray dogs roam around and goats tied to fences graze on front-garden grass. We pass a through Bilar Man-Made Forest – the result of a 50-year-old restoration project lining the island with white and red mahogany trees – and soon make it to Loboc River.
Cruising along the waterway here is a memory-in-the-making moment. The water is pristine and surrounding vegetation is more akin to a social media reel than real life. A performer covers The Rivers of Babylon as cruisers sing along, children dance, and families tuck into a buffet of traditional food, with everything from barbecued meats to tofu curry. Sweet-toothed, I overindulge in suman – sweet rice cooked in coconut milk then wrapped in a banana leaf.
After an obligatory stop at a souvenir shop, we head back to Amorita Resort to recuperate, but not before a stroll along Alona Beach – a scenic spot for sunbathing, snorkelling and late-night karaoke sessions.
Day 2: Bohol's caves of wonders
Rising to a rainy day, there's still a buzz in the air as we peer around Panglao Public Market. Feeling for ripe local mangoes and glancing over the piles of hanging kitchen and bathroom staples, I discover banana ketchup; a still-loved recipe and relic of the Second World War that was created by food technologist Maria Y Orosa in 1942, using the tropical fruit in place of tomatoes when access to the tangy fruit was limited across the country.
On today's agenda is a visit to St Augustine Parish Church, where a newer roof and facade sit upon an older stone structure, built beside ruins from a previous house of worship, all hinting at this house of worship's rocky past. Construction began in 1894, but was halted until 1912 due to the Philippine Revolution, which opposed colonial Spanish rule.
The church and its grounds serve as something of a snapshot of the history of the community, culture and country at large. Today, the operational church is a popular spot for tourists of all faiths owing to the art houses within its walls, particularly the striking ceiling mural that depicts Roman Catholic sacraments. The Panglao Watchtower is also here, constructed in 1851, and the tallest of its kind in the country.
From here, we make a quick stop at the Nova Shells Museum, a small building that houses one of the world's largest seashell collections. While it's fascinating to glimpse the South Sea pearl that features on the reverse of the 1,000 peso note, and was declared the nation's gemstone in 1996, it's a stop you can skip unless you have a particular penchant for collecting or viewing shells.
The same can't be said for our next activity – venturing underground to explore Hinagdanan Cave, another spot that comes with its share of lore. Our guide escorts us inside the 100-metre-long cave, telling us how it was discovered by a local farmer, and was also a hiding place for locals evading the Japanese Imperial army during the Second World War – remnants of this use are visible in the modern-day charcoal cave art.
The cave featured in the 1973 action movie Esteban, which propelled it onto the radar of tourists. So influential was the film starring Filipino actors Fernando Poe Jr and Alona Alegre, that the aforementioned Alona Beach is named after the leading lady. Mesmerising as these tidbits are, the cave evokes wonder all by itself thanks to its limestone cavern and warm-water lagoon, where more prepared visitors dive into the waters, while we stick to soaking in the backstory.
After a late lunch overlooking the sea at Bohol Bee Farm restaurant, famed for its ice cream which you'll see sold across the island, we make it back to the resort in time to try a treatment at the Sea Tree Spa before heading to dinner at nearby Bamboo Place. Our group tucks into Filipino classics such as yang chow, bicol express and mango salad, served alongside shisha and live music, and it's the perfect setting for our final evening, and a recap on two days of exploration as we muse over where in the Philippines we'd like to island hop along to next.
Cebu Pacific flies daily from Dubai to Manila. From there, it's a 90-minute flight between Manila and Panglao International Airport, with four flights per day
Desert Warrior
Starring: Anthony Mackie, Aiysha Hart, Ben Kingsley
Director: Rupert Wyatt
Rating: 3/5
Brief scoreline:
Liverpool 2
Mane 51', Salah 53'
Chelsea 0
Man of the Match: Mohamed Salah (Liverpool)
Springsteen: Deliver Me from Nowhere
Director: Scott Cooper
Starring: Jeremy Allen White, Odessa Young, Jeremy Strong
Rating: 4/5
Mia Man’s tips for fermentation
- Start with a simple recipe such as yogurt or sauerkraut
- Keep your hands and kitchen tools clean. Sanitize knives, cutting boards, tongs and storage jars with boiling water before you start.
- Mold is bad: the colour pink is a sign of mold. If yogurt turns pink as it ferments, you need to discard it and start again. For kraut, if you remove the top leaves and see any sign of mold, you should discard the batch.
- Always use clean, closed, airtight lids and containers such as mason jars when fermenting yogurt and kraut. Keep the lid closed to prevent insects and contaminants from getting in.
Brief scores:
Newcastle United 1
Perez 23'
Wolverhampton Rovers 2
Jota 17', Doherty 90' 4
Red cards: Yedlin 57'
Man of the Match: Diogo Jota (Wolves)
Sun jukebox
Rufus Thomas, Bear Cat (The Answer to Hound Dog) (1953)
This rip-off of Leiber/Stoller’s early rock stomper brought a lawsuit against Phillips and necessitated Presley’s premature sale to RCA.
Elvis Presley, Mystery Train (1955)
The B-side of Presley’s final single for Sun bops with a drummer-less groove.
Johnny Cash and the Tennessee Two, Folsom Prison Blues (1955)
Originally recorded for Sun, Cash’s signature tune was performed for inmates of the titular prison 13 years later.
Carl Perkins, Blue Suede Shoes (1956)
Within a month of Sun’s February release Elvis had his version out on RCA.
Roy Orbison, Ooby Dooby (1956)
An essential piece of irreverent juvenilia from Orbison.
Jerry Lee Lewis, Great Balls of Fire (1957)
Lee’s trademark anthem is one of the era’s best-remembered – and best-selling – songs.
Classification of skills
A worker is categorised as skilled by the MOHRE based on nine levels given in the International Standard Classification of Occupations (ISCO) issued by the International Labour Organisation.
A skilled worker would be someone at a professional level (levels 1 – 5) which includes managers, professionals, technicians and associate professionals, clerical support workers, and service and sales workers.
The worker must also have an attested educational certificate higher than secondary or an equivalent certification, and earn a monthly salary of at least Dh4,000.
Brief scores:
Liverpool 3
Mane 24', Shaqiri 73', 80'
Manchester United 1
Lingard 33'
Man of the Match: Fabinho (Liverpool)
Mubalada World Tennis Championship 2018 schedule
Thursday December 27
Men's quarter-finals
Kevin Anderson v Hyeon Chung 4pm
Dominic Thiem v Karen Khachanov 6pm
Women's exhibition
Serena Williams v Venus Williams 8pm
Friday December 28
5th place play-off 3pm
Men's semi-finals
Rafael Nadal v Anderson/Chung 5pm
Novak Djokovic v Thiem/Khachanov 7pm
Saturday December 29
3rd place play-off 5pm
Men's final 7pm
Emergency phone numbers in the UAE
Estijaba – 8001717 – number to call to request coronavirus testing
Ministry of Health and Prevention – 80011111
Dubai Health Authority – 800342 – The number to book a free video or voice consultation with a doctor or connect to a local health centre
Emirates airline – 600555555
Etihad Airways – 600555666
Ambulance – 998
Knowledge and Human Development Authority – 8005432 ext. 4 for Covid-19 queries
The Pope's itinerary
Sunday, February 3, 2019 - Rome to Abu Dhabi
1pm: departure by plane from Rome / Fiumicino to Abu Dhabi
10pm: arrival at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
Monday, February 4
12pm: welcome ceremony at the main entrance of the Presidential Palace
12.20pm: visit Abu Dhabi Crown Prince at Presidential Palace
5pm: private meeting with Muslim Council of Elders at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
6.10pm: Inter-religious in the Founder's Memorial
Tuesday, February 5 - Abu Dhabi to Rome
9.15am: private visit to undisclosed cathedral
10.30am: public mass at Zayed Sports City – with a homily by Pope Francis
12.40pm: farewell at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
1pm: departure by plane to Rome
5pm: arrival at the Rome / Ciampino International Airport
How the bonus system works
The two riders are among several riders in the UAE to receive the top payment of £10,000 under the Thank You Fund of £16 million (Dh80m), which was announced in conjunction with Deliveroo's £8 billion (Dh40bn) stock market listing earlier this year.
The £10,000 (Dh50,000) payment is made to those riders who have completed the highest number of orders in each market.
There are also riders who will receive payments of £1,000 (Dh5,000) and £500 (Dh2,500).
All riders who have worked with Deliveroo for at least one year and completed 2,000 orders will receive £200 (Dh1,000), the company said when it announced the scheme.
'Worse than a prison sentence'
Marie Byrne, a counsellor who volunteers at the UAE government's mental health crisis helpline, said the ordeal the crew had been through would take time to overcome.
“It was worse than a prison sentence, where at least someone can deal with a set amount of time incarcerated," she said.
“They were living in perpetual mystery as to how their futures would pan out, and what that would be.
“Because of coronavirus, the world is very different now to the one they left, that will also have an impact.
“It will not fully register until they are on dry land. Some have not seen their young children grow up while others will have to rebuild relationships.
“It will be a challenge mentally, and to find other work to support their families as they have been out of circulation for so long. Hopefully they will get the care they need when they get home.”
Results:
6.30pm: Maiden Dh165,000 2,000m - Winner: Powderhouse, Sam Hitchcott (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer)
7.05pm: Handicap Dh165,000 2,200m - Winner: Heraldic, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
7.40pm: Conditions Dh240,000 1,600m - Winner: Walking Thunder, Connor Beasley, Ahmed bin Harmash
8.15pm: Handicap Dh190,000 2,000m - Winner: Key Bid, Fernando Jara, Ali Rashid Al Raihe
8.50pm: The Garhoud Sprint Listed Dh265,000 1,200m - Winner: Drafted, Sam Hitchcott, Doug Watson
9.25pm: Handicap Dh170,000 1,600m - Winner: Cachao, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar
10pm: Handicap Dh190,000 1,400m - Winner: Rodaini, Connor Beasley, Ahmed bin Harmash
Why seagrass matters
- Carbon sink: Seagrass sequesters carbon up to 35X faster than tropical rainforests
- Marine nursery: Crucial habitat for juvenile fish, crustations, and invertebrates
- Biodiversity: Support species like sea turtles, dugongs, and seabirds
- Coastal protection: Reduce erosion and improve water quality
Ant-Man and the Wasp
Director: Peyton Reed
Starring: Paul Rudd, Evangeline Lilly, Michael Douglas
Three stars
LA LIGA FIXTURES
Thursday (All UAE kick-off times)
Sevilla v Real Betis (midnight)
Friday
Granada v Real Betis (9.30pm)
Valencia v Levante (midnight)
Saturday
Espanyol v Alaves (4pm)
Celta Vigo v Villarreal (7pm)
Leganes v Real Valladolid (9.30pm)
Mallorca v Barcelona (midnight)
Sunday
Atletic Bilbao v Atletico Madrid (4pm)
Real Madrid v Eibar (9.30pm)
Real Sociedad v Osasuna (midnight)
Napoleon
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Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
If you go
Flying
Despite the extreme distance, flying to Fairbanks is relatively simple, requiring just one transfer in Seattle, which can be reached directly from Dubai with Emirates for Dh6,800 return.
Touring
Gondwana Ecotours’ seven-day Polar Bear Adventure starts in Fairbanks in central Alaska before visiting Kaktovik and Utqiarvik on the North Slope. Polar bear viewing is highly likely in Kaktovik, with up to five two-hour boat tours included. Prices start from Dh11,500 per person, with all local flights, meals and accommodation included; gondwanaecotours.com
